gmrhodes13

Great news, now the fun begins

Normally a costume and optional weapons need to be finished before a CRL can be finalised and go live so you may have to either paint it prior or wait for someone else to be the CRL model. Waiting for prints and doing all the prep work can be a real downer especially when your mind is working in over drive Nice work, I may need to add one of this to my 3D print to do list

I think you will find he's requesting TK access https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=23559&costumeID=124

WOW what a difference the spray made, nice fix

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Correct, start will more then work your way down. If you add a step to the top of the ear they will sit better too: Great tutorial here

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks

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I would contact your GML as some are a little more lenient than others when it comes to approvals. Not sure what was going on with those forearms, here are my ATA which do have the angle not stepped like those you show. Cutting that section shouldn't be a problems, screen references:

Hello and welcome to the forums from here in the west, good luck with the researching, hope to see a build thread from you soon.

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Looking good so far

Correct, I actually like to use a rectangle piece of plastic first on top of the elastic, with some E6000 glue just to make sure the elastic doesn't pull through but many don't and have no issues. If you use a solder iron to make the holes in the elastic it will strengthen the hole and help to not pull through.

https://trooperbay.com/trooperbay-armorwhite-plastic-whitening-gel

Split Rivet or Bifurcated Rivet

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper, you can request higher access here Found the safety lens on eBay, was just a generic green lens, not welding screen as that is too thick

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That's fine, if you bring the back too far forward you end up with a big gap under the brow trim, pushing it backwards will close this gap. Looking good

Trim lines look good, you can trim the top flair of the face plate, you may need to remove a little more once you check fit as it may still push against the curve of the cap. Ears will cover most of the backplate seams BUT just watch how deep you cut the top inner corner, also if you use a small drill bit were the trim lines meet it will stop any cracking there. I left a little more material on the lower areas of the backplae where the ears will cover, ATA ears are a little weird how they meet and you can end up with an opening between the two pieces, that's not an issue as the ears will cover but doesn't give you much room for adjusting the angle of the ears. Notice in the below images were the rubber trim stops and the trimmed corner Also watch the position/angle of the ears when you come to fit those. I trimmed a little more curved in the two front corners so the S trim didn't pinch, you can always trim off more but you can't put it back. Once assembled try putting the helmet on before cutting your S trim, you will also need to leave a little extra S trim than what you need and force the S trim to fit, the extra length will put pressure on the S trim and keep it in place, most don't need any type of glue to keep it there. Notice the curve in those front corners. And if you weren't aware you put the helmet on sideways then twist straight when putting on

Correct I did mention that

Hello and welcome looking forward to seeing your build. Actually you can use decals on all levels of ANH (as long as you use Dave M style, which appear hand painted). There really isn't too much difference between ANH and ESB, many purchase another helmet and get approved with both versions. Here's a great data sheet on the differences. https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view?usp=sharing

Nice work, just be careful how wide you make the tube stripes, they stop quite high on the curve of the cheek, yours appear to be a little wider/lower

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For my RS I had some film left over from an ATA build, this is a green safety lens which is a little thicker so it's harder to see through, I found the RS lens a little see through.

Using by hand is the best way to control the bit, moving forwards and backwards with a small amount of pressure.