gmrhodes13

Most just bite the bullet and pay the price. One option is find a cheaper pair in black and dye white http://www.tonybarnett.plus.com/boots.html You can find cheaper boots online ("FUNTASMA") but they do have a sewn line, should be ok for basic approval but not for higher levels, as always check with your GML before purchasing. Normally find them on Ebay or Aliexpress.

None of those images are actually mine, but I use black silicon, I use black so it matches the black paint inside. I use magnets to hold the lens nice and tight while the silicon dries.

Hope everyone has a safe and prosperous festive season, best wishes for 2023

Was on here daily when I first started looking for build info and references, had everything saved on my computer for my BBB to arrive. Back then ATA was a 6 month wait (got up to 9 month's for a time there) so there was plenty of time to learn the in's and outs and what to do and not do. Some even stay around after they have finished their builds and log in daily, move onto higher levels and even lend a hand locally as a attache. Passing on to others what you have learned is a way to give back to the community for the help you have received, troopers helping troopers Looking forward to seeing those BBB photos

Overall nothing major stands out, really more some tweaks, thighs not at same height, also shins not closed properly, these things can make a difference to fitment so keep an eye on those next suit up. You can see here just under the cod the right thigh is a little lower You will get used the the clanking, nothing better than hearing a group of TK's clatter along I use elastic and snaps under the front of the shins attached to the boots to stop rotation and stop them riding up when kneeling

Your TKID appears to have a "classified record" which means you are no longer an active member, you will need to discuss this with your garrison command.

Very nice update, well done. Happy holidays right back at ya

SE-14R detail Weird cut outs on backplate

Some references

When in doubt you can compare references in the gallery sections

Photos are very small so can't see much detail, still looks like your thighs on the rear are hitting your posterior. You also have a bit of a step on the thighs now that you trimmed them, they should be a lot softer in angle, compare the step to these references Also watch your drop box positions You may find once you start moving around you hit in a few places so more trimming may be needed, here are a few threads for those of a shorter height, will give you an idea of what you can and can't trim. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38416-crickets-rs-stunt-build-for-the-vertically-challenged/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38842-fragarocks-rs-stunt-build-not-to-scale/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42868-sha-shas-wtf-anh-stunt-build-complete/

That foam is very dense and you may find you get a headache or just head pain if wearing for a long time, yellow (furniture) foam is very soft and will compress nicely, hey but what ever you have on hand works

I always attach my shoulder straps further forward so it helps the shoulders to rotate inwards after moving. You can see how much further forward they are from the middle of the straps in this image I would bring your forearms up a touch, just even the gaps at the elbow and wrists, I'm sure you would be approved how they are though. I added foam inside my forearms to stop rotation, this helps them stay pretty straight

For small areas I try to use blocks of wood so when heated you can clamp until it cools, it's very hard to control on large areas, it tends to just get wobbly, as it's already been formed to a specific mold. I've seen some make curved wooden plugs before for making return edges. Another way is to bend your plastic by hand then tape around tightly, use some heat up and down around the curve, when cooled it should keep it's shape. You won't need very much of a curve if you and shims to the sides.

Very nice, bag is a great bonus

I'm using 1 1/2" - 2" yellow foam, quite easy to compress. I also have velcro glued to the pieces so I can remove and wash when they get sweat build up, E6000 holds fine.

Originals used chin straps, although I found using one a little annoying, I now use 2 blocks of thick foam either side of the head to help keep the helmet in place

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks, you can request 501st / Stormtrooper access here

You may have to add some side shims if the pieces are left with a gap. You would have to glue the sides first, as the inner drop box recess are there. You could then cut the sides past the drop boxes and add a shim, glue and fill with ABS paste. This is OTTK but it would be a similar procedure to adding shims for FOTK, or should give you a good idea how to fill those gaps. I don't think I've seen an FOTK with shims as yet but many of the other makers have excess material on theirs which get's trimmed down, doesn't look like Denuo Novo has any extra.

Its not a mistake, some like to keep return edges (like me) as they give a thicker more full appearance BUT some need more room or to stop pinching so they trim. A great thread on return edges here It's entirely up to your GML if they will aprove the drop box position were they are now, but they should be OK for most. Adding some glue to the tops to stop them leaning will be an improvement.

There may be a snap or rivet through the elastic if that's were the belt is mounted to the armor, hard to say without seeing behind. If it was me I would stretch the elastic, then cut, stretching it before cutting should give you enough length for it to be glued to the belt, you don't need a big area to glue to, E6000 holds pretty tight. You don't need the loop of elastic, it's not something needed for basic or higher level approval.

Perhaps post up a photo of behind the belt, so we can check for a solution

You may want to remove the elastic then move over and re-glue, if you just pull over then glue it will probably come off over time due to being tight. Should be at the end of the plastic belt Yes this is the pivot I mentioned you would need to add some glue to, make sure you rough up the back of the drop boxes with sandpaper so it helps the glue to stick too Still amazes me they used rivets without washers, but then again they were made for a movie not for a lifetime costume

Looking forward to BBB photos soon

Some references of the return edges