gmrhodes13

Appears so. Neckline looks a touch low, do you have any room at the cod/posterior to bring everything up a touch more, you normally find it's pretty snug fitting down there if you are a little taller. Looking at the length of your arms I'd guess you are over 6'? Were's a WTF EIB at 5'11" for comparison

Nice work, almost at the finish line. You may want to either paint or use electrical tape in black on your side section between the ab and kidney as it's seen from the side. Also watch the placement of your drop boxes especially for higher level clearance A few teaks and you should be good to go

Great work, remember that if adding mobility cuts do cut through the top edge, only the back section of the ridge. Yes I've said it before but doesn't hurt to say it again Any mobility cuts on the back do not extend beyond the top of the raised ridge.

Great attitude and congrats on being the CRL model, if you do end up making the tweaks the CRL image can always be updated Now you have joined our ranks you can also request higher TK forum access here Was just looking again and it may be because your strapping is too low, if you compare with the reference the pack sits on top of the backplate angle which makes the pack parallel to the backplate, may be even worth trying some Velcro on top of the backplate and under the top of the pack so it will lock over and wouldn't be able to slip back.

There's always the option of making a great Halloween costume too, it's great playing mannequin and scaring younglings Good luck with your journey, hope to see you join the ranks in the not too distant future

If it's the two piece I use some soft pine for the outside to rest on and regular small hammer on the inside. If it's the split post type, same applies but use a flat screwdriver to spread the legs (that sounded rude)

And if anyone is attending and getting a photo please either stand in front of the right arm or rotate his bicep the correct way

Great to hear and it was good to see you started right by doing some research, that's the biggest part of this hobby, research and finding a kit which can both fit you and may gain membership acceptance. Looking forward to seeing some BBB photos in the not too distant future

Lots of things to consider, not just looks but price, durability, comfort, ease of dressing, transportation etc etc Personally I never liked the look of the RO armor, (here's my GML OCD mind at work), we already have armor from just after that timeline yet a costume designer (or someone at LFL) decided to make a new version, with bits and pieces from other newer Star Wars costumes, so lineage wise it doesn't work for me. We know LFL do use some suppliers for some costumes and props so why not just purchase from one of them or the many sellers out there with correct lineage armor. Don't get me started on the rear view of the costumes either, pieces open, others cracked or pieces missing as there is no room for movement ie thighs hitting the belt, at least we know white gaffa tape is still canon Dressing I can get in my OTTK by myself, can't with my FOTK or a RO armor as I recently found out, I need help for those. For me at least the OTTK is the most comfortable and versatile, 2nd would be my FOTK, it is more restrictive, albeit once I'm kitted up I do stand well and for long periods which is great for some of my medical issues. As for looks I was hooked on the FOTK as soon as I had seen the first image (yet I know others hate it), albeit my first love was an OT ANH, always had since seeing it on the big screen back in 1977 Ease of transport and dressing has to be the OTTK once again, everything fits in a clamshell torso and into a suitcase and I can dress myself, FOTK is a little harder, I had to make material covers for all armor pieces because it was painted and needed protecting so it takes up a little more room and need help dressing. Price and again it's the OTTK, so many makers out there and simple black undersuit, no ribs. But here we are, now with other series before and after the original trilogy, timeline really takes a kick in the guts there, but having other versions of this era armor it does give some the ability to do multiple costumes from one set of armor, so that's an advantage. At the end of the day it all comes down to personal taste

Jedi robe have a separate ammo belt section to belt, ab plate is molded to the abdomen and cod piece is joined as most armor is. You can see the separate pieces in this image as well as the molded cover buttons which have rivets (not approvable) yours has 4 rivets definitely not approvable: To be honest not many ask about this type of armor these days as so many makers advertise on places like FB and Etsy and are a bit easier to find than say 10 years go, a lot has changed about talking about armor makers, we couldn't back then. Whatever it's origin It would need quite a lot of work to meet todays 501st standards and I would encourage you to reach out to your GML (garrison membership liaison) as ultimately it's he/she/they/them who would be looking after your application.

Depends on what armor you have and what version, and what you are filling, if it's a DN first order kit it may not need painting, many getting a ABS to polish to a gloss finish as if it was never there. Anovos and Jim fibreglass kits both needed filling and painting, hence needing the clear coat to protect it.

Could be a Jedi Robe (or similar) has the same molded ab plates and molded button covers on belt (with plastic belt not fabric) also overlap construction Swoops on chestplate and backplate look similar too.

Unfortunately many of these sales sites are front and centre when doing a browser search for a stormtrooper costume, although it's not as prevalent these days with the amount of the vetted sellers on Facebook and Etsy. Hopefully you can obtain the refund, good luck and hope to see some pics from you soon with your shinny new DDD armor

Image is very blurry and hard to make out much of the details, without closer in focus images it's a little hard to tell, there's quite a few it may be. Info for posting multiple images here as the forum only allows a small amount of image attachments.

Some older threads in regards to Jedi Robe may be of interest to you.

SDCC, may need a few adjustments Pretty bad how it is displayed, you think you would want to display your product to the best of your ability, or may that is

There are so far several members who have used ABS paste, sanded and compounded/polished their armor who have not needed to use paint so yes it can be achieved. Here is just one of the many builds showing how to join/fill with ABS paste and sand/polish and also forearm modification to make the kit TLJ approvable.

Depends on what paint you are using. I normally use automotive acrylic clear as it dries quickly and being automotive you can sand and compound/polish. I used 2K clear for the first time on my Mando, it levelled nicely but still some orange peel was left, but again it can be sanded and polished, you also need a completely clean area to spray as it takes a little while to dry and a mask is a definite, this stuff is pretty poisonous. Some paints are too soft like enamels, very hard to sand as they clog the paper quickly, also hard to buff/compound, being soft it tends to burn easily. Also take care using different makes of paint, some can react with others so always best to trial a small area first. 2K over automotive acrylic has no issues.

Nice work trooper, a couple of other things you may want to d before the DO's arrive Blaster scope rail is pretty bent, also missing a cocking lever Some rough areas on the barrel you may want to fill and repaint

This may be a good thread to read

Gaps look a little large, I think I would have another go. Remember that the eye area does have a curve so your lens will be under some strain, heating could help but you have to be very careful and slow or you will distort the lens. I like to get mine sitting right and hold in place with magnets and tape, leave to dry for 48 to 72 hours to make sure it has dried completely

Nice work, you could if you wanted too close up the open gaps around the lens by fine tuning, a little sanding in places that are touching, a bit like the ears. Not a must and as is the gap will allow a little air flow so entirely up to you.

I normally check the measurements, eye of snap to other eye of snap then deduct 5mm, usually that works for me BUT over time I ended up with a few that were just too long/loose which I've added extra snaps too and I now use these as a measuring device.

I do as they can fray pretty badly, run them across a gas stove top or use a lighter, or soldering iron, once hot press on a piece of board/wood.

"Bitten by the bug" happens to many of us, not uncommon to be waiting for shipping of parts for 1, 2 or even 3 costumes, albeit my recent activity was more props for convention displays so waiting for a lot of electronics, but I still have 2 BBB sitting in the wings for when things get quiet 10th year anniversary in the legion last December and still my interest has not diminished, "thank the maker"