gmrhodes13

Your images are very small so hard to make out a lot of details, you will need bigger images when you send in your application to your GML. Also best to take your photos inside on a blank contrasting background. Thighs should come up a bit closer to the cod, tighter strapping may help, they are also at different heights. Your left bicep is popping out under your shoulder bell in a few photos. Looks like your detonator can come down on the belt. Belt could come up too, for L3 The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels.

Appears the link you have is for someone in the German garrison, try this one https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=13412

Although I dare say the text has been copied directly from the Stunt CRL I think there is a mistake A black oxygen hose that connects the left side of the horizontal shall be present, and will be affixed to the top of the chest plate underside of the helmet Albeit the helmet mount was wider on the live action Also should the pack straps be mentioned, I know they are not on the Hot Toys figure but present on the live action? Pack may be attached to the wearer by 2 grey straps @ 1"-1"1/2 wide (@ 25mm - 38mm wide)

Here you go Any mobility cuts on the back do not extend beyond the top of the raised ridge.

Quite a lot of people make their own, not a great deal of work

Looking good

Looking forward to seeing the progress With the DN kits they do need some adjustments, forearms need a triangle added to the rear. Seams need to be glued on the yoke to back and also on the sides of the abdomen. Some have been ABS paste, although a slow process it does mean the armor doesn't have to be painted which is a big bonus compared to the first runs of armor from Anovos. A couple of threads ABS joins Updated TD

These are approximate measurements as it can change from maker to maker

Great work No issues with mobility cuts all the way up to L3, just don't cut through the top ridge. Thigh trimming no issues either, just make sure you aren't leaving a large open/black area.

Looking forward to seeing the progress, good luck You can also request 501st access here, instructions in first post

Hello and welcome aboard, there are some makers who have longer shins which may help your issue, TM and RT mod to name a few.

Hello and welcome aboard, if you've not seen this thread before it can be a great help, good luck with the research

Not my image but similar You can ever try adding some foam in the back of the thigh at the base to help push it backwards from the sniper plate, either way is worth a try.

That is how I do mine, they fit a little better that way too. You may find once wearing for a while you may have to modify/heat expand a little as they can dig in on the side of the ankle, see how you go.

Looks the part

Really depends on the paint, also what pieces we are talking about, it isn't meant to flex and will crack with movement. Do you have some photos of the issue so we can best be of help. I have an 8 year old FOTK painted and no paint cracking (apart from 2 from air transport)

You are fine the way it is, remember you aren't seen from the back very often and you do need some room to move around. It is quite restrictive in armor and you will never bend your knees as if you are just walking around, mine I probably get about 1/2 normal movement. See if you can add some foam behind your sniper plate, it will help to push it forward away from your thigh. Check on final adjustments once thigh ammo strip is attached and you are fully kitted up.

Nice work No issues trimming that off the cod for comfort. One thing I did happen to notice was the sharp corners on your black ear border, comparison below, other ear looks fine, a toothpick could be used to scrape off some of the paint to round them of a little

Cod should be snug so if you have room bring the abdomen and kidney upwards. Could be tighter strapping between chest and backplate or tighter between chest and abdomen, it's a bit of trial and error. As long as you aren't cutting circulation off around the cod

Personally (if room available) it look in the images you may be able to bring the abdomen and kidney upwards, if so this is going to change the gaps at the top of the thighs. I make all final trim adjustments once I am fully kitted up in the armor, just by adding/adjusting one area it can change other areas. Have a look at this reference for gaps, note the thighs are butting up against the cod, in your image looks like you have room. Knee gaps are barely existent on some Easy to take off later than try to add back on.

Do some research, the Artillery Trooper is based of Rogue One armor Info here on ROTK resources

There is also an option to trim the bottom of the shins to allow them come down a little more on the boot giving you more room at the knees. Definitely wait until you have your torso on to check gaps. Also wait until you have both the thigh ammo strip and sniper plate added, can make a difference.

I would wait until you have the rest of the armor on, you may need to bring your thighs up a little which could give you more room. You won't get full movement that's just one of the downfalls of wearing armor but you do get some movement. You can add mobility cuts on the rear, just don't trim through the upper ridges Any mobility cuts on the back do not extend beyond the top of the raised ridge. References here

Unfortunately staff do get busy and some things can be missed, I know there are still other CRL's missing items or have incorrect information, there is a process to CRL changes and can take some time especially if other CRL's are being worked on around the same time. If ever this issue arises again either keep plugging away and asking or message the DL directly. Anyone making a pauldron note there are some specific differences with this pauldron and this is the perfect time to address some of these and do some updates so we can get a L3 approvable pauldron photo added to the CRL. Note the closure, no rivets, attached under the pauldron, not curved to a point, a thin edged/sewn strap. ed. Could add velcro to one end so it attaches underneath the pauldron. Anyone looking for a pauldron template you can find one here Note the black areas only have 5 segments not 6 like in the template

If you do get any wobble you can use a long piece of wood with sandpaper wrapped around to sand the sides straight (I use a plastic sanding block).