gmrhodes13

DO NOT USE NAILPOLISH REMOVER, it will melt the plastic, it's basically acetone which is what we use to make ABS paste and that's what you will get. A little elbow grease is all that is needed, a wet rag, scrap plastic or pop stick, even your thumb. Any excess glue will be pretty easy to rub off, scrap plastic cut on an angle, great for getting into the sides over coverstrips.

Can never have enough clamps, magnets or tape when you are on a roll

There no CRL for the costume as yet, although they are working on it. Try over at https://www.sovereignprotectors.com/forum/

Hello and welcome aboard, this thread is full of info for the first time builder. Looking forward to see a build thread from you soon. Good luck

Your shins could also come down a little if possible, just give you a little more room at the knees. It's all a case of tweaking how everything sits on you.

You could just add a larger cover strip on the rear, as the public normally only sees the front, make sure you discuss with your GML as some are tougher on pieces than others. 6' 5" is a little tall for a lot of kits, RT mod and TM both sell longer shins but the issue would be color matching, there are big difference in color between makers and their plastic suppliers. Wouldn't mind see how your shins look with your armor and thighs attached, you may be able to do a few adjustments to fill any gaps. Ultimately yes you could lengthen the shins but it would take a lot of work, clueing extra pieces of plastic, then fill gaps with ABS paste, sanding and also trying to get the right looks, would be hard work.

A block of foam behind the cod/abdomen can help but for those really nasty armor bites you may need to trim a little. You do have a bit of the gap at the knees so you could drop the thighs a little so they don't hit, also note your shins are sitting high on the boots, normally sit a little lower. If trimming any area do this in small stages, it can be amazing some times how little an adjustment you may need. That area of the cod isn't really seen from the front so you should be ok to trim

Quite a lot is different, this thread should be of help

It was only a matter of time, classic armor pre orders are available Be interesting to see how they come out.

Looks like you have these under control, nice work

Perhaps he is thinking of higher levels too

Long discussions on this one in the past, the 501st members were seen as extras and not front/main characters as such only the amror made for the actual show is taken for the CRL. Some 501st members also appeared in Obiwan Remnant Stormtroopers all wore Rogue One era armor.

Of course with any CRL feedback may be given by staff or members prior to submitting to the LMO's, this is for transperancy. I've not had a full look at the text, just a glance just this minute and appears a few items which are different from other FOTK CRL's, personally I think all base CRL's should be consistent, we already have issues with game CRL's which aren't consistent and cause issues. One in particular is the abdomen side seam, this has been discussed previously with the other FOTK CRL's. I will have to go into the rest in more detail at a later stage.

I also forgot to mention if you have really skinny arms you can add a little foam inside armor pieces to keep them sitting straight. Most don't need to add any padding.

Great news, happy dance time You can request TK access here Congrats trooper and welcome to the ranks

Correct on all most of your assumptions You can glue a small piece of plastic behind the thigh gaps, then fill with either sugru or ABS paste. With the thigh ammo strip you only need a few mm's edge Ends trim to comers Rivet placement Sniper plate NOTE: For a more screen accurate look, it is suggested that the top of the rear ridge of the sniper plate be aligned with the top ridge of the calf. Also note that the sides are angled rather than curved.

1. For fitting, how exactly does one go about doing that? I know there needs to be a return edge on the inside of the forearm, and no return edge at the wrist, but how do you determine what it should be at the other end? Depends on your size, if you have skinny arms like me you can't trim too small, you can leave extra return edge on the rear or you can remove it all if you have larger arms. Great thread on return edges 2. I've noticed that AM builds usually have some wonky forearms when they arrive and mine is no exception, how would I go about fixing this? I've heard people use heat-guns or a hot water bath to help adjust this sort of thing. - - (Do you just heat it up and bend it slightly until it sticks?) - (I've used tape to just temporarily hold it together here.) Only those experienced with heating ABS plastic should attempt this, there is a fine line from being pliable to molten mess, best to use a hot water bath if you really need to adjust. Most of the time you can pull the pieces into place, using masking tape you can press down on pieces then wrap the tape around while it dries, clamps and magnets are also useful. Make sure you rough up both surfaces with coarse sandpaper before apply E6000. And for pieces under strain/stress leave to dry longer 48 to 72 hours. Many add inside cover strips for strength, I find I normally only need them in the shins as those pieces are constantly open and closed.

Looking forward to seeing the progress. In case you need it we do have a FOTK gallery area for referencing https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/14-tlj-tk-reference/ Good luck with the build

Thigh strip is usually pretty easy, a couple of references Now the sniper plate can be a right pain in the backside, depending no make you may need to use clamps, magnets and tape to hold in place, some even need a slight heat and twist to get them to sit right. Or you may be one of the lucky ones. A few references.

it was a commission build

Unfortunately not, we have screen references of the armor used in RO and other recent series so we know what version armor it is. Timeline, Disney don't care about timeline and what version costume should have been used, we do however go off the screen references. If you want a slightly dirty look you could do a HWT (heavy weapons trooper) or go full Sandy.

Definitely cover strips in the insides, these flex all the time from putting on and taking off so the extra strength will pay off in the long run. I have roughly 5mm return edge around the tops on my thighs. If you find them too tight on your leg you may be able to add mobility cuts, references here Note check your height and gaps first, adding mobility cuts to someone tall with large gaps can make those gaps look even larger.

Correct, T-tracks did look odd, especially one blaster having weathering and one not. As I mentioned earlier what this thread has shown though, a few screen used blasters (Live/Hero) did not have T-Tracks on both lower sides of the barrel, hence the light/armor showing through in a few images. Great to see this thread pricked up the ears of so many

Yes, please hang tight A.J. is not on the forums every minute of every day, he will be along in due course to update you

Those curved areas over the ears will be a pain to match, BUT I'm sure you will manage that with flying colors