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Alright guys! Just trimmed 4" total. Looking much better. Nice and vertical just as specified. And yeah, that's a new bag of clamps and a tube of e6000. I should be pro by the end of this.

Thanks as always Glen. After reading the threads you posted, I decided the best method was simply to grind/sand down the ridges. I mixed up some ABS paste and reinforced the space behind the area where I was sanding. I sanded through the most obvious aspects of the ridge with my dremel and some 120 grit sandpaper. Since then I've used 400, 800, and 1500 grit to smooth it out. Once the ABS that's behind (and now through the sanded area) hardens I'll give it another go to smooth it out further and fill in air bubbles. I've got a few photos I'll post later and then post some additional photos where I tape off and fix any of the air bubbles I'll inevitably have to deal with from the filler ABS. On the plus side, this allows me to fixup some minor flaws on the back of the thigh shims that've bugged me for a while (despite the fact that only I can see them). For anyone following this, I decided to sand down the ridge and ABS fill-in because I didn't want to have to modify the already snug fit of the thigh. If I'd cut out the whole back thigh ridge I would've needed to completely resize the thigh. By carefully and selectively sanding I've only gone after the obvious flaw in the armor and have minimized the impact to the armor as a whole. Just keep in mind that I have LIBERALLY spread ABS past on the inside of the thigh behind the sanding to reinforce the armor. Also, be very careful as to where you're sanding. I initially taped off the area I was sanding so that I stayed "within the lines" and didn't accidentally start sanding or dremeling away from the targeted area. Photos to come.

Didn’t make much progress this weekend. Worked on the shoulder bells, which had barely any (one, none at all) guidelines on the lower edge. So I got one properly trimmed and sanded, then used it to trim the one without the guide lines.

Hello everyone. I glued my shoulder bridges to my chest plate last night. All that is left, with my body armor, is having to make the bicep to forearm connections. A friend is trying to help me with the construction of my helmet (a whole other story). Updates on that coming soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello everyone! I am Jonatan Östling from Sweden and I just got approved! A dream has come true! I cannot wait to connect more with the people in the Swedish Garrison and go out on troops, and taking my kit through the higher levels of approval (so you'll see me in the EIB and Centurion request threads)! I was so excited that I spend a few hours at work to create this fun little signature with Obi-Wan in the background! Enjoy!

After making EIB and seeing the work I need to do for Centurion, I figured I would make a new thread for the help I am sure I will need in the final push. See below the notes about what needs to be done. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Let's start from top . Your right ear bump shape looks pretty good , while the left one is a bit rounded at one side. It's just matter of a painting session to improve this detail Reference Images Your Vocoder paint looks pretty ragged and we suggest to add this item to the painting session too. Reference Images Looking closely at you Ab buttons panel it appears to have a little return edge in the top right corner (red line) that could be trimmed to get it flat and you could give a more accurate shape to the little one by trimming a little more. Reference Images As seen on screen , you could move the Ab belt down a bit to the top of the Butt plate . Reference Images Even thought it is not mentioned in the CRL, the Thermal detonator's metal clips should be squared (not rounded), on the control panel side. Reference Image This is a very small detail, but the rivet holding your knee ammo pack is a bit close to the edge compared to the on-screen armor. If you're up for it, we're suggesting you move it in. This would require filling the old hole with ABS paste. Reference Images *************************************************** Centurion Requirements; In this section we prepare you for Centurion. Because Centurion photos show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. CRL L3: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. This looks like a simple strapping issue. shortening the shoulder strap and a bit could reduce the gap. Another trick here is to remove the Shoulder Bell's return edge to allow them to sit close the chest armor. Reference Images Next, your forearms, The biceps and forearms armor seems very large compared to your arm size. We absolutely welcome troopers of all different body types, but we do expect that for our highest level of approval, the armor is sized appropriately to the wearer's body. In order to size down the biceps and forearms, you'd need to carefully remove the cover strips, trim back the pieces some, and re-glue them. A hot water bath may also be helpful in re-shaping the curve. As per the CRL, all costumes are "...proportional to the wearer in scale, fit and size". Reference Images CRL L3: No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Looking at your wrists, there is a remaining little return edge. Just a little sanding job. Reference Images CRL L3: Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. Continuing on, your back plate is a little overlapping the kidney. You might consider shortening the elastic connecting the chest and back just a tad, another option would be to bend bend the corners with a hot water bath or heat gun (with care) or even placing very thin foam at your shoulders so the back piece sits a touch higher. Reference Image CRL L3: Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top There is a pretty good sized gap at the tops of the ab/kidney connection on both sides, even with the arms down (pic 2). we think that some double straps would take care of that for a much better "ideal" look. Reference Images Please take a look to This tutorial . It can help as well. CRL L3: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. This is a common issue and an easy one to fix. Moving them outward and then applying a dab of E-6000 on the rear of the strap will take care of this and keep it from wandering. Moving on, we have your thermal detonator belt clips. there is a noticeable gaps between the clips and the end caps and they will need to be relocated. Since the caps and control panel appear to have a little return edge, you can trim them down and move the clips sideways so they the gap get closed. If it was me, I would use a fine sharp knife or cutter to make the "surgery" . CRL L3: The blaster may have minor weathering or base metal exposure Finally Matt, we havo your blaster scope. A little weathering is fine and dandy (and expected) but that is WAY too much "brass" color showing. Time to break out the spray paint! That's all Matt. We are sure you're going to take the next step with those fixes and continue to the next level. In addition to what the DOs have mentioned, I’d also note that your neck trim appears to be applied the wrong way around. Currently, you have the thick side out, whereas the thin side should be on display.Hopefully, just removing it and flipping it should still fit okay.

Your appreciation is appreciated. I spent months on this forum prior to purchasing armor. Unfortunately I am very slender and not to many folks on here have this narrow of a frame. Not much to go off of. This thread was intended to recieve as well as provide any insight as to how armor building/modding can be achieved. Especially for us slender troops. Thank you!

I know it is of no help to you however I just wanted to let you know that you're resizing challenge is helping me to understand what I may have to go through having thin legs too so I appreciate you documenting it here. Bart

Thanks, I'll glue some ABS to the back. I do have some elastic holding it down. What would you paint it with?

Perfect!!!!

Just measure 2" from top edge and 2" from bottom edge and trim, strip should be vertically straight from up to down exactly like I built it originaly. Adam mentioned that your rear strip is not centered at the bottom but thats because you overlaped the parts and didn't trim them yet so it looks like your strip is off centered at the bottom, once trimmed and you glue the strip it will be centered.

Name: Adam Wolf Height: 5'11" Weight: 165 lbs Armor: AP Helmet: AP Blaster: HyperFirm E-11 Boots: Imperial Boots Canvas Belt: AP Hand Plates: Rubber (AP) Electronics: Ukswrath (Hovi-tip Speakers, Hearing Assist, & Fans) Neck Seal: Darman's Props Holster: AP Build Thread: Full Body Photos: Front Back Right Left Right Detail Left Detail Action shot Armor Details: Ab Buttons Cod/Posterior connection Interior Strapping Wrist openings Ab/Kidney rivets Han snap Sniper knee Sniper knee Sniper knee Ammo pack Ammo pack Ammo pack Helmet Details: Front Back Left Right Green lenses Hovi tips and vocoder Accessories: Neck seal TD Front TD Rear Holster attachment Whole belt, rear Boots Rubber gloves Blaster: Left Right Rear / D-ring Thank you for your time!

Great work! Hope to be there with ya soon

For rear cover strips, please check out my EIB application. As per Mark's advice, my front strips and rear strips line up. I *did* achieve centurion with the armor, but the ideal alignment is not having the front and rear strips at equal locations. You want that rear strip to be centered with the back of the thigh as per Joseph's drawing. So, while the top on your thigh photo looks good, the bottom could stand to be centered if possible. Or at least closer to center than mine is. And then, of course, the rear shin cover strip needs to line up with the thigh line and your rear boot line. Legs are weird.

Welcome again Jonatan, I also sent you some pointers for the higher levels (your GML speaking)

Code If you decide to trim legs down make sure to remove material equally on each side so ABS strip will be centered, example if your total removal is 5" remove 2.5" on each side, basically rear strip should line up with front strip as much as possible, if you need any extra ABS strips or rivets ect.. let me know. Mark (AP)

Hi Michael, You did a great job with the Ab plate and the Ab/kidney gap sir. It looks much better We are almost there and just the last small request to be ready. Even tough the frown paint looks better, there is a tiny bit more than there should be and will need another 15 minutes paint session to be perfect. Thank you. Reference Images

So here is the right thigh re sized to fit my thigh a bit better (will still require foam on inside). My concern is.. will I still qualify for Centurion with the thigh looking like this?

Hi, at first sight it looks ok, at least the ammo counter side.

I had to do a little tweaking myself, mainly on return edges & mobility cuts because I am a little short for a Stormtrooper, forgive the Pun. I expected to do a little work here and there and I feel it will benefit me in the future when I decide to do a build myself. I also researched a lot about commissions and from the content, I am not the only one who had to do a little work. I am not trying to knock anyone here, but this is what I have experienced. Just be patient guys and take your time because like I said a while back in a reply to another thread, the reward will be worth it.

Also make sure (if you haven't already) you have elastic on the back to help keep them held down

I find adding a piece of ABS plastic behind helps stop them cracking. Make sure you sand both surfaces before adding E6000 to help it adhere. Something like this, not my photo but similar (disregard the cut out in end)

Tightened belt AND strapping, and I’m on a diet…lol

If you are planning to trim down the sides of the kidney, you will lose the rivets on the left. If you need replacements, just let me know and I'll send you some (no charge). What part of Florida do you live in? The reason I ask is that I know folks in several Squads here that may be able to help you on a one-on-one basis (in person).

Yes, keep a good attitude and patience. To me personally, the modifications will come in handy when I decide to get a set of armor and build it myself. It gives you a sense of accomplishment of knowing that you built it with your own personal touches.

You've got the right attitude so you are halfway there