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I did the ears this afternoon. That was a long 4 hours of sanding but I am pretty happy with the result. Had some trouble attaching the right ear as the face piece was not long enough to grab it and the back with the bottom screw. I added a small piece of scrap ABS and extended it to catch the screw. I noticed the right ear was a bit loose. I tightened the screw and it snugged nicely into the helmet.

Thankyou for your feed back. I'll try my best to get these changes addressed. The back of the thighs arnt all glued down as they come apart so I can put them on. You were right on the money with it being from tkuk. I wasn't 100% sure where to stop the trims on the belt or shoulder straps. But your diagram helped alot. Thermal detonator is easy to fix. And like I said the bicep connector broke when I took the photo, that's why it's backwards. (Fixed now) Im only going for basic. Don't have the time or luxury to go any further. Thankyou again

That LOCK screw is so annoying. On this handle it tightens fully at FREE. Since I have to put electronics in it and wire stuff up later, I'm not gonna Loc-tite it on LOCK just yet. As for that red wire... not sure if it's correct, but it sure looks right compared to the screenshots. Trying my best to make this screen accurate. Onto an update! I got the power cylinder JB Welded into place. No going back now! But I can change out various parts of it. Next step was some T-tracks. I've never had to do these on any blaster before, so this was pretty fun for me. I snipped to 5x 6.5 inches and 1x 7.25 inches. The measurements worked well for this Fieldmarshall build. Work area. The snips help to re-angle the track cuts as necessary. They need a pretty sharp cut and most of mine were done too wide at first. Low heat while spinning to evenly heat all three spars of the Tee. If only the bottom gets heated, it won't bend... and will lizard-skin the bottom side. I used a small screwdriver to help shove the pliable plastic into the hole and it worked amazingly well. I was able to get a very sharp bend on all the tracks and most don't need glue. The top one looks a little loose because that's how it is on the screen version. You can see a little light between the barrel and T-track behind Leia. I tried to replicate that here while still keeping it in place. All starting to come together! The T-tracks and counter just add so much. I've started some light weathering to match the screen version as closely as I can as well. For the time being, I have the counter held in place with a screen-accurate wire. It's also supported by some strong double sided tape. However, the wire attachment creates the perfect height, position, and angle by itself. So very awesome to not struggle at the counter positioning. None of my other blasters have extremely sharp molds at the top of the scope. The accurate white crayon lettering is just chef's kiss. I also got the chip installed on top of the scope. I tried the socket only version first and then compared it to the height with a chip installed in the socket. I think the chip + socket is most accurate. Now I just have to figure out those wires running from the counter to the power cylinders...

While figuring out where to attach the holster, I decided I needed to change holes in the leather straps. moved the plug from the new hole and e6000’d it into the old hole to add just a bit more structure. ‘ attached! I’m going to make this use snaps to come off easy for packing, just need some small #8-32 screws.

Thanks @TKSpartan @gmrhodes13 and @ABS80! Great tips and encouragement. I got this. I will try this out and report back.

Yes, reached out again via a new thread. Thanks!

I flipped one of the bells so you can get the original color for reference.

This is another one of those 'I was on a roll' and already trimmed the tops. Now I do like how these feel so I'm not worried about them moving around too much. But I do have skinny wrists, so I might need to add foam or something in the forearms. I'll start on those next. Here are the bottom return edges.

No worries, Luke. As I said, speak with your GML first as they might not ask for any of these things. :-)

The time has come, and the boy is rapidly outgrowing this kit. I'm considering selling it, but I have no idea how to price it. Armor is solid and still has lots of trooping life left in it. Would fit a skinny kid body type with a height from 53"-59" (maybe a little taller). There is some wear in typical areas, inner thighs, inner top of ab where chest plate overlaps. I think I've got over $200 of 2K clear coat on it alone. Includes everything, armor, helmet, belt, pouches, gaskets, neck seal, thigh garter, blaster, shoes, gloves. Also includes two sets of fully completed forearms (one smaller, one a little larger), and two fully completed/assembled shins/spats (one smaller, one slightly larger). Everything is painted with automotive white gloss to match, and all parts have several coats of 2K clear for protection. Any pricing suggestions would be most welcome! Thanks troopers!

Hey Guys, Well I did my first "troop" at Celebration and it was a blast!! I had such an amazing time and met many great people from the 501st. It was awesome to walk around in my armor, but it also helped me find a few other issues that need to be addressed. With Celebration behind us I now want to get my EIB application in, but I have a couple things to fix first. See below some cool shots from the weekend, but they also highlight the issues I am having. First issue is my backplate. I normally had it tucked "inside" the kidney but was told it looked better out, as well as it didn't make noise like it does when tucked in from scraping. After looking through pictures I see that when it is outside the kidney there is a huge gap that you can see through and does not look good at all. This was one reason I initially had it tucked in, but I think it is an issue that just needs addressing. I think this should sit almost flush against my back? Question: Can I trim the bottom of my backplate or is there a better solution? It is really the corners, but it could all probably come up a little bit. Second issue is my sides. Both sides of my ab and kidney still are not lining up. I cinched the belt fairly tight and that helped a little, but they still sit unevenly. I am not sure what the issue is. We thought maybe the thighs (when they were butting into the buttplate) may have been a cause, but those have been trimmed and there is still a mismatch. Question: Maybe I need additional strapping on the inside to hold these level on both sides? If you need any other pictures just ask and I can try and find some, or just suit up and take more. Thanks, M

Thankyou for your feedback/help. Im working on to rectify the problems with it now. Only thing I can't really change is the drop boxes until I get new ones. But everything else is easy to fix.

Your image is a little small to see much detail but here are just a few things I can make out. Shoulder bells could come in more, there is a big gap between them and your shoulder straps Chest could come up a bit, should not be sitting on ab plate Forearms look a little narrow. Can't quite make out your cover strips, looks like some of the pieces of armor may be overlapped? some cover strips are of different sizes too. Cover strip on your thigh left leg is not central to the lower ridge join You have rivets on the ends of your knee sniper plate, they should not be there and the ends should be cut straight. You have holes in you belt drop boxes, should not be there Belt could be trimmed a little more top and bottom That's about all I can see for the time being. You can also post in this thread for feedback once you have all your photos, before submitting to your GML (garrison membership liaison) You need clear hi res images so details can be seen https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/193-request-tk-pre-approval/

So glad to see you are using textured paint in this build. Everything else would just not make sense here. Don't forget to turn the LOCK/FREE screw in the grip into LOCK position later. Oh, and great work done on the power cylinders, though we haven't seen any ones with a red wire to the outside.