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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/30/2021 in Posts
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I’d like to congratulate @TheRascalKing for being awarded the Attache Award. Justin did such a great job stepping up and keeping the pin run organized and running smoothly. The staff has all seen a lot of great comments on social media on how well this went. Thank you Justin we know this is a time consuming task but the staff appreciates all that you have done and continue to do.6 points
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Hey cool, thanks! Happy to help the Detachment when I can. @justjoseph63, @Sly11, and @Redforce also deserve shoutouts for all of their help.4 points
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https://www.facebook.com/Troopercoola Check out Marc/ Troopercoola. He has the JMC E-11 kit casted from sterling parts. Has all the things you need to assemble a blaster to centurion level. Marc can be contacted on this forum too if you look for troopercoola. Very nice kit. -----------4 points
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As Glen mentioned, the Questdesign does need the counter moved (not that difficult) but it is actually a really nice blaster overall. Coming from Canada the shipping may be a bit high, but I've seen these up close and they are well worth the price.3 points
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I've seen a few threads and a few people have purchased in the past but nothing recent, a few search results here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/search/?q=quest designs&quick=1 https://www.questdesigncanada.com/collections/frontpage/products/star-wars-stormtrooper-e-11-blaster-prop-replica-stormtrooper-v3 The counter is a little low and should be moved up for centurion, comparison image below3 points
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You can find a few 3D printed weapons but be very careful what you buy, there are a lot of low end versions with lots of print lines on Esty You can find some nice 3D printed ones here Hellhounds were supply rubber versions but I believe has gone quite due to some personal issues, you could contact via Facebook Field Marshal was producing all metal kits, higher on price but very accurate. Ebay store https://www.ebay.com/usr/vmusicstore Some other info in this thread3 points
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You don't want the snap fixings for the bottom right hand strap to be visible from the outside. Make up something this... Glue this to the inside of your armour using e6000 or similar. Be careful not to get glue on the metal parts, as chemical reactions can cause the metal to heat and may warp your armour. Easy to avoid as long as your careful.2 points
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I agree. That’s why I went with it. And short of actual authentic parts, I can use better quality replicas like the ones from Christopher Fieldmarshal at BlasterFactory. I actually have a Fieldmarshal E11 with a real magazine and a real Hengstler. What I’ll probably do is take the M38 replica off that and put it on the Quest when I get a real M38 The one on the Quest isn’t that great. The writing on the one end is barely legible. I’ll do my best to send plenty of pictures later so you can judge for yourself.2 points
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Got the last of the major trimming finished and did a quick rough fitting. Looks like everything will fit pretty well hopefully. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk2 points
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Glad to hear it was an inspiration, keep up the great work2 points
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Thanks! Your design was the inspiration for mine, so thank YOU for starting me on the path [emoji106] Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk2 points
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Sorry I didn't document my power cylinder build but here are a few photos of them after a fresh coat of black paint. Not level or perfect but the look the part and much better than the original DVH power cylinders seen in the first post. Just wanted to assemble these quickly and figure out how to improve things as I make more of them. Weathering still needed once I am able to set up the magnets for mounting them on the blaster. I did not position the 3 inner capacitors as I would have liked to. I glued them together and just left them as they are. For the next practice build of these I will experiment more with replicating the ones from the reference photos.2 points
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I am having a tough time finding in-stock E-11 Blasters that can be approved at a Centurion level. If any of you have any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated!1 point
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Maybe someone here can suggest a foam insert to fill up the suit or wear the belt more loosely. I encountered this same problem with the overlap - I realized my waist is actually quite small for my stature. As I did not want to increase my daily calorie intake to fill up the suit, I ended up actually trimming off an inch of ab material to make the suit form fitting and no overlap. I wear my belt to the full tightness, and now that there's no overlap. Unfortunately, I didn't trim it until AFTER mounting the right ab snap; lesson learned. I'm not necessarily advising this to be done; but be mindful if you do, significant ABS work may need to be done to shift the snap. Overlap at form fitting tightness After trim Ab snap rework1 point
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Hi Tim, congratulations for your approval !! . RS is a great set of armor and with some adjustments you can go the extra mile to higher levels of Expert Infantry and centurion. Adding something else to the great Richard's Advice : 1- Adding the missing strap to the right side will do the deal with the gap and you could short the upper strap too. 2- You may want to short a little the right side lower strap to reduce the gap. And finally, rising up your Ab belt will help not only to keep pieces in place but give a more accurate look. Some references. Good luck and looking forward for your advances.1 point
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The poppers I just got from amazon, and the canvas (actually nylon webbing) was a random Google search. You don't need an exact size for the material part, as long as its fairly strong, and big enough to get a fair amount of glue on. If you have a store near you that sells items for making clothes (such as Dunelm in the UK) you can likely get both items you need from there. This is the kind of kit you want for the press studs, as it has the tools you need. You'll also need a hammer and belt punch (some kits a punch is included). https://www.trimmingshop.co.uk/4-parts-press-studs-button-with-fixing-hand-tool-for-leather-crafts-jackets.html https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-leather-hole-punch/p/03434451 point
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Brill. Are you able to share where you got your materials such as the popper snaps and white canvas material? Sent from The Empire1 point
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In my experience you won't find a more helpful bunch! Only thing I can spot right now is that your belt is sitting pretty low at the front. Ideal position is that the top of the plastic part is just covering the bottom edge of the lowest buttons. I'd be surprised if that in itself is causing your issue, but it's the first thing that jumps out to me.1 point
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Thanks Mr T. Really pleased with the armour. Being on the shorter and slimmer side, it’s just presented a couple of minor issues to sort but no doubt the kind folks on here will lead the way [emoji106] Sent from The Empire1 point
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Cool. Be good to see the other pics. Also, congrats on basic clearance [emoji122] Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk1 point
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This is a photo of the other side. I can take images without the belt tomorrow if that helps. Sent from The Empire1 point
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Are you able to take a pic of the other side, and the strapping inside. Also a pic without the belt on at all. I'm very new to all this, but those pics may help the more experienced guys come up with ideas to help. Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk1 point
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That would be helpful! I’d really prefer to buy something whole and make mods to it, so I’m leaning towards getting it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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I would also recommend Marc’s Blaster kit The Troopercoola JMC. Marc is a fantastic guy and is always willing to help you out if you have any issues. I am looking to purchase one of his myself, in the future.1 point
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I actually ordered from them recently and can show you pictures later when I get home. Overall it’s a very nice resin E11. There are a few little things I’d like to change but that’s what modifications are for. Lol.1 point
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Thank you for all of the information! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Warmachine is DOPE but not ideal for trooping. Word on the street is Hellhounds might FINALLY have some ANH ready to ship, so that's a great option too.1 point
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I'll ping you once I get another blaster going - this is my only blaster and I got some troops coming up And gotta go break some piggy banks, seems like I'm going for the Fieldmarshall/Warmachine kit. Subject to change? LOL1 point
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DIBS! Message me lol Sounds like yes for EIB, no for Centurion for ANH. The S&T (with proper accessories) should be approvable at all levels for RO.1 point
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Ahead of 'ya! I couldn't do that to the ANOVOS bucket ones, they were already too thin, any thinner and I can't fit the hearing assist mics into the ears. But for the new trooper bay ones, I took that into account1 point
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Having a step trimmed out helps ears to sit flusher Great tutorial here1 point
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Looks good! Your mic panel looks a lot cleaner than mine; I had problems getting the ANOVOS-cut ears to sit flush with the inner panels inside; they way too thin. So I just cut and trimmed the panels until they fit... Still not flush so I got some new trooper bay ones, cut and painted, just waiting for my paint jobs to dry, then drill the mic holes and remount.1 point
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Got a lot of the rough trimming done today. Used the same method I did with my TK and just pencil marked along the armor to find the bends where you know the extra material is and cut along that. Easy way for me to make sure I'm keeping enough to work with. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk1 point
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Sound advice if I've ever heard it! Thanks so much, Rob! My husband has been trying to convince it's time to retire the armor and get another set. But, I do love this armor. It just looks so amazing when I wear it. Thanks again.1 point
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Countcunning 30180 06/29/2021 In Progress Canada TK Not Yet Not Yet Not Yet Jimmiroquai Jimmiroquai1 point
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Lets look at the wording for the ANH E-11 in the CRL Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. This does not change for EI as nothing is mentioned., Toy Stormtrooper blasters are not accurate in themselves and probably less accurate than your S & T. At Centurion it is clear that we don't accept modified toys or Bapty's as they are not accurate to ANH sterling, so that would also cover any blaster not accurate to the ANH Sterling which unfortunately also would cover any blaster S & T or otherwise with incorrect parts. Bapty-style, Hasbro and Rubies blasters are not allowed, even conversions. I think the CRL currently explains itself well enough, but I have no problem in adding additional items to the centurion list. We didn't have these available to members when this section of the CRL was written so not possible to exclude something that hadn't previously existed. I would certainly be adverse to requesting anyone modify an expensive Airsoft to a point it is no longer usable, therefor my recommendation would be to not use it in our high level approval.1 point
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My pleasure, Brian. Though this time Google made life a bit harder than usually. Anyway, it finally worked to also upload both PDFs and to update all PDF-links here. As always, if you find broken links, missing pictures or anything else, don't hesitate to post here or send a PM.1 point
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Just to be crystal clear... the grip would be required to be changed on the S&T for approval as ANH Expert Infantry? At that point, I would pull the accessories off and just get a different blaster, if as James said, modifying the grip would ruin the functionality... I realize we're nitpicking, but I feel like if we set this precedent, it should be noted somewhere as well so others are aware!1 point
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I think you have done a spectacular job on this, James! Since the ANH blaster is based on an actual Sterling, one item that really bothers me for EI is the grip. The grip is not based on a Sterling blaster but rather an Airsoft. Among other things, the Sterling grips were much more rounded on the sides and the overall shape is significantly different. S & T Sterling Unfortunately another item that would be a show-stopper for Level 3 is the power cylinders. While the size of the actual cylinders looks good, it's the spacing is what is throwing them off. Note in the reference images how close together they are. They are also missing the correct fuses in the center. The fuses aren't the biggest of deals by any means, but with your eye for detail and tenacity I honestly feel that you could whip something up that would look danged close. I realize that those details are not specifically listed in the CRL, but as stated in there we use screen used references as well as those listed in the CRL. Based on the amazing things you have done with this blaster so far, I have every faith that you can pull this off, sir. If I can be of any help, just PM me.1 point
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Hi Ross have heard good things about your armor, can't wait to see it up close1 point