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My issue was completely self inflicted. I had intended to trim the front edge of the outside bicep piece. Unfortunately, I thought I had the top edge to the right but it was actually to the left when I marked it. So, instead of trimming the front edge I trimmed the back edge. It would have been way too tight to properly trim the front edge to get it looking correct. Fortunately, I hadn't finished trimming the other arm so I swapped the outside pieces. I'm sure some experts on here who review armor all the time will be able to notice the swap but I can't tell the difference. No pictures this morning, but I did get a little more done. The eyes and teeth of the helmet are both close, but still need a little more filing and sanding. I'll post a picture when I get them where I am happy with them to make sure I've got it right. I also used a Dremel to completely remove the lower return edge on all 4 forearm pieces. I've done a rough trim of the upper return edges but still need to remove more material. Hopefully I'll cut them to size tonight and work at gluing them together tomorrow.

Many thanks @TKSpartan @LEGOeatPokemon and @AradunFF This build was real fun. THAT is a great idea. Will definitely do this - even if not documented here.

Thanks to my local Garrison for the suggestion on the screen mesh and the feedback here with the Detachment. Should help with exposure to being visible through the teeth. Went to Menards and found a roll of something called ScreenMend. Cut a section of it and sweated the install with a hair dryer. Was concerned with the heat next to the lens acetate and directly on the PVC of the lid. Next up, attempting to secure the IComm unit and Amp to the chest plate with Velcro. Any tips?

Advance warning: This is a fairly long post with multiple additional pictures for feedback on future advanced certification. Thank you for your consideration. 1. First/Last Name: Jason Jenkins 2. Future Garrison/Squad/Outpost or local area: Timberline Garrison, Sawtooth Mountain Squad 3. Armor maker: Anovos 4. Helmet maker: Anovos 5. Cloth belt maker: Anovos, DIY canvas overlay & plastic reinforcement. 6. Neck seal maker: Anovos 7. Boot maker: TK Boots 8. Interior strapping: Industrial Velcro 9. Blaster maker (if applicable): Rubies 10. Gasket maker (if applicable): N/A 11. Height (optional): 5’10” 12. Weight (optional): 185lb 13. TK type (ANH Stunt/Hero. ESB, ROTJ. TFA etc.): ANH Stunt 14. Name(s) of any Trooper(s) who significantly helped with your build: Jedi5150 15: Gloves: Anovos rubber, Trooperbay latex handguards 16: Kidney armor shims from Anovos plastic. Donut Brigade/Porkchop Patrol temporary duty assignment anticipated. Front View: Just noticed that my sniper knee looks all askew in that pic. That was from the whole lower leg getting twisted. Here’s the sniper knee close up: Back View: I’ve noted that the right posterior plate is gapping widely to the side and will fix the strapping. Left side: Right side: Abdomen plate: Ab plate close up #2: Helmet front: Helmet left: Helmet right: Detail photos of additional items. Both sides of the blaster. Eventual goal is to bring the build to EIB/Centurion after I source a proper blaster. Following that, other images from the EIB/Centurion list if not included earlier. If this makes the post too cumbersome, I’m happy to edit them out. Blaster left: Blaster right: Left kidney/ab seam detail: Right kidney/ab seam detail. Sorry about the wonky light reflection on the kidney plate: Ab button plate detail: Cod/posterior connection: Interior strapping: Wrist opening (some foam padding slipped & will need re-gluing): Sniper knee left: Sniper knee right: Thigh ammo left side: The cover strip on this thigh is undergoing additional glue and clamping to tighten the gap. Thigh ammo right side: Helmet rear: Per Tat2trooper’s feedback, I cleaned up the sloppy painting on the traps. The black specks on the right side were wiped off after the photo. Helmet interior & green lens backlighting: Helmet s-trim: Hovi tips: Neck seal: Thermal detonator front: Thermal detonator rear: Holster attachment: Belt/holster assembly, outer side: ABS/Canvas belt (rear). The top Chicago screws are blind fastened into stiffening plastic, and not visible from the outside. I used the Anovos canvas belt as a base for a stiffer “sandwich” belt. There are no visible patches. The top holster Chicago screws blind fasten into a piece of stiffening plastic (wet paint sign from the hardware store). The bottom screws penetrate all layers. There’s a piece of canvas above the plastic to hide the top screws and stiffening plastic. Covering all of that is a hemmed canvas belt overlay. The canvas overlay is sewn as far as possible under the ABS and extends to underneath the Velcro on the loop side. On the hook side, it runs from under the ABS all the way to the end of the belt. The end result is the appearance of a one piece canvas belt, but with hidden reinforcements and stronger holster attachment. If the outer layer becomes stained or worn, it can be replaced without disassembling the entire belt. Boots: Gloves flat: Gloves flexed:

Thank you sir

Done and done!

Thanks, Glen. I was going for no gaps, which I plan to end up with when I put it all together.

Thanks for all the detailed feedback. My day job will be busy for the next week or two, but I’ll work on incorporating these fixes. Update 23 March: Hellhounds E-11 blaster ordered Right thigh rear cover strip removed & reglued.

Great progress and cool video, Dan. Looking at the front muzzle, I am though wondering about the length of the tube. In the above image you can see the dovetail and front sight cage sitting very close to the rounded edge. Compared to this kit, the receiver tube seems a bit long. On the below photo I noticed a slight 'ring' below the front sight cage. Was the tube meant to be cut there? Or do you know of any other reason? I once had a similar issue, chopped off the receiver's tube and seamlessly added the muzzle with green stuff. Keep the good job up. It is fun following this project.

Ahh ok.

Yes they do with ATA armor

Here's how mine looks now. Just Velcro and used a little strap to help hold it on also. I will eventually tighten the tube up. There is Velcro behind the Icomm and the amp.

I double over min so it's even harder to see through We have metal flyscreen mesh here so easy to fold oh and easy to find

Hey troopers, Time for another update on this excellent kit. Let’s start with the latest video update, then move on to the photos: Part 3: So, the folding stock was a little bent/wonky on one side. To correct this, I decided to use wood and a clamp to sandwich the resin, then heat the resin over the steam from the kettle. This actually worked really well, allowing just enough “flex” to correct the part (probably to about 95%) I started gluing some of the parts to the main barrel - parts that would be of the same material on the original weapon. So, I attached the front and rear sights, mag well and flash guards. Front sight and rear sight needed sanding on the underside to fit the curvature of the barrel. The rear end cap is nicely detailed. Although, to take it up a notch, I used a Dremel to carve a dip into the central area. This is to fit the attachment for the D-ring. A quick test fit of a few parts, just for fun. (The pictured scope and Hengstler counter are from my old build) Quite a few parts are now ready to spray paint, which is rather exciting. :-) I’ll post more updates when I can. Thanks for reading. [emoji7]

Quick question: I'm not sure if it's possible, but is there a way to contact a person who posts a video on youtube via email or PM? The reason I ask is that if we could get in touch with the guy who did this particular one and explain our situation (501st accuracy nerds) he may give us access to at least a few of those "secret" photos me mentioned in his video showing some details. He obviously wants the world to know about them, and what better place than the HOME of TKs? I wonder if anyone in the UKG knows him? Hmmmm.

Hi Justin, I'm currently working on your review and I'll need you to do me a favor. Could you please update your Helmet's inside photos with the correct blue mesh material installed on your the tube vents? I know you have already done the fix, but for future references we prefer the updated photos. Thank you !!

Attention Troopers!! please welcome to the ranks Centurion # 497 - Jakob (Yacorp) of the German Garrison. Congratulations sir! Well, Now we are in the final stretch of making this happen only 3 spots to go !!

Bumps and lumps are pretty normal with helmets, it's what the original armor had, nothing to be concerned about