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Found them! PM me your address and they will go into hyperspace

Yes comes up from time to time, many don't notice him in the movies until they actually start working on a costume. One of the many threads discussing him: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23571-mr-no-stripes/

Also according to reports from Screen rant, the new The rise of Skywalker comic adaption will feature deleted and extended scenes. Looks to be a 5-issue run that will cover scenes not shown in the movie.

No you are correct, that’s Mr nostripes, the one that stuns Leia

Slight bit of trimming at the base Right Left Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well guess that just confirms a super-mega-ultra boxed set with Rogue One, SOLO and a bunch o' deleted scenes in a couple of years then!

TFA was the same way, a bare-bones release followed a few months later by the 'special edition' version with the Blu-ray 3D and the special features and deleted scenes. My guess is they are saving that content (and any potential director's cut) for this thing:

Some more updates happening! After today, every piece of the kit is in at least the first coat of filler/sandable primer! Lots of sanding and several more coats to go, but getting there. I also ordered a quart of Fibre Glast 1110 vinylester resin, which hopefully will work well to reinforce some of the thin/stress prone areas of the suit. It advertises a flexible but impact resistant finish, so I'm optimistic. Trying out "Ultra-Thin" 1" Velcro for the closures... Man, I've tried several without being happy so far - regular Velcro, Dual-Lock, low profile... It really doesn't need much to keep pieces shut, so hopefully this will do the trick. A few pieces are in final prep before the last coat of white paint - really hoping I can get a decent finish with Rustoleum 2X without too much orange peel. I purchased several extra spray nozzles (and uncovered an international spraypaint conspiracy apparently - did you know Rustoleum switched to a unique female cap a couple years ago, but doesn't sell replacements at all? I think they just assume you'll buy a new can instead of cleaning or replacing the nozzle. Google this, it's actually weird. I found an eBay seller who makes aftermarket nozzles that fit though) because it seems like I get only one good spray out of the can before it goes to hell and spews 100% chunks. Warming the cans up in water and thoroughly shaking has helped too. Fighting my own perfectionist nature to try to get things MOVING ("'Good enough' never is!" haha). A little afraid to actually trim the kit, but will be taking about 1" off the sides of the barrel, top of the cod, and will be splitting the thighs at the rear cover strip to overlap them. I was debating how to do the rear barrel closure when I ran across Rogue Repro on Facebook and their sweet zippered rear closure system. It looks pretty darn nice for the price, so I'm going to give that a try! Finally, I have Jeff (@11b30b4) whipping me up a pair of his excellent flexible urethane shoulder bridges - the ones supplied with the kit are way too long for me and prone to cracking from my understanding (and ANH experience), so these should be a nice upgrade. Getting all my ducks in a row! I have two more rounds of chemo left before radiation, and it does get harder every time. But things could always be worse - I'm determined to stay positive. In general, moving in a positive direction, and the masses in my neck and chest were 1/4 the size they started at in my last PET scan. My Garrison has been very supportive and I appreciate them immensely. I helped coordinate a mini TK Armor Party this weekend for about a dozen guys, so hopefully we get some good work in and have some more TKs approved soon! That's it for now, but hopefully I can get everything in white in the next week or two, then focus on strapping and weathering!

The FISD Membership has Spoken! Please join me in congratulating Andrew Franke as the FISDs new Detachment Leader! Congrats Andrew!!

You can try shortening the elastic on both sides of the butt plate , another suggestion is changing them for Nylon strap.

Thighs could definitely come up a little you do have a lot of gap there. You could also add some foam behind the sniper plate to help push it forward away form the knee. One other thing and I'm sure it may be a dressing thing but I can see the opening of your shins from the sides, just making sure you have overlapped outside over inside

Hi, I would suggest to put on the upper part of your armor (Chest,back,Ab- kidney) to see the space between the thighs-armor connections. Cheers

Just to make it clear, It’s not acceptable for 501st approval in any Garrison

Looking good so far.

Nice Work.

Hopefully the neck is high enough, sometimes the lower neck boots will pull out from under the shins, either adding velco or elastic and snaps to hold them in place could help. Also notice the elastic on the sides is a lot lower on your pair, although a GML possibly wouldn't notice that, could be picked up at higher levels though.

Is it just me or is the trooper on the left missing their tube stripes? Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

YOKE AND BACK This is a pretty straightforward part to complete. The key thing is to glue the 3 parts together properly, and get it puttied and sanded to look like 1 solid piece. So I'm not going to show the pieces, but start at the gluing stage. Spare no clips or magnets so you get a nice solid bond. How the inside looks: And after puttying, sanding and priming: That's really all for this part. Having said that, I will be trimming the arm opening later when I can get the chest piece fitted to form a nice smooth opening. Also, there's still the shoulder metal plates that are going to protrude out of the side of the yoke, strappings, velcroes and magnets to go on this part. Till then!

Welcome fellow two letter name who also starts with a J! It is incredibly daunting task to finding the right armor. I've been aware of this forum for years before I've made my first post because I wanted to make sure I had everything down. Research is key here, and it may seem harsh for people to repeatedly ask you to do your research, but coming back and saying, "I know what I want, and why", it can give yourself a sense of pride and accomplishment. I was originally put off by this years ago. Now I've realized that it's really more to your benefit. It will save you lots of money to do the research yourself, to use the search function on the top right of the page, and look up "ANH Stunt Kit", it will show you people's build threads of various builds. If you don't do your research, you might buy kits off of certain websites that shall not be named here, and that each kit has it's strengths and weaknesses. Some are higher quality details but are more fragile, or do not fit certain body types. You might be buying recasts off of sites that claim to be reputable. The links provided above will steer you away from those sorts of people, and I hope that you are not discouraged by the weight of research ahead of you! People have blown thousands because of poor research, and they don't want you to make similar mistakes! I hope to see you around the forums!

That is amazing, I love the detail including the red light up section towards the top. You got to be quick to catch it watching the film but it is certainly there. Nice work Glen.

Everything total dry it was time to start assembly, which took a few days having to wait for E6000 to dry on some pieces before final assembly. Also added some small decals to emulate screws/bolts with some black decal sheet I had handy. Fully assembled and black tube added, was some left over TV aerial coaxial wire I had handy, holds it's position when bent, added the screen accurate plastic tie to the handle too . Also added a rubber stopper on the bottom of the shaft so it can rest on the ground without being scratched. Complete and test with the Aker amp, cable runs down the arm to the handle, So that's about where it is at for now, as I say it's far from being 100% accurate but version 2 will definitely be in the works soon.

Given the TFA TD was 1.5kg of solid resin that Velcro was essential! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yeah kind of disappointing but generally Screen rant have been pretty good with their sources. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like I'll be holding out

Fantastic job so far. I've used the low profile before (on my shin closures) but this is the first time I've seen the ultra thin, let us know how it works out.

This was my thought too.

That’s correct. Screen Rant reported no deleted scenes or commentary. Perhaps Disney are keeping their powder dry for a future special edition release.

No need to worry, I’m almost 100% sure I have extras, will check tomorrow

Lol - CRL E-11 picture is STILL wrong! [emoji17] Magazine end cap is round the wrong way.

Looks good but you might want to find some smaller screws. and clipping the corners on the metal tabs will help with reducing scratches on your armour.

Thank you all for the help Email issue resolved! Mark (AP)

THERMAL DETONATOR PART 2 After settling the tube portion, I moved on to attaching it to what I call the back plate. Looking at the physics of it, I think this joint will be weak as it will only be held together by the thin frame of the rectangle on the tube part to the back plate, and the area of contact is really tiny. There's not much to sit on, and if there's any knocks during troop, I am afraid of risking it breaking off. This is the joint, and I don't think it's strong enough: So I decided to reinforce the inside of the tube with a 3mm thick strip of acrylic, with 2 bolts fixed onto it, which I will tighten to the back of the back plate. The long strip will pull the tube down towards the back plate and form a really secure hold. This is where I will drill the holes through the acrylic strip and the backplate for alignment: And this is how the acrylic strip looks like with the 2 bolts CA glued to it, and then epoxy glued around it. Yes, call me paranoid. And this is how the strip looks inside the tube portion. I made 2 balls of epoxy putty at the ends to hold the flat strip down on the curvature of the tube ends. Then, I applied my Weicon glue around the inside of the rectangular edge, put the 2 bolts through the 2 corresponding holes in the back plate, and secured it from the back with 2 nuts, clamp the whole thing down and let dry: This is how it looks after drying. Super tight and secure! No wobble, no play. Then comes the ever dreadful task of achieving "no visible seams" in the CRL. Epoxy putty, sanding, priming, putty, sanding, priming.... you know the drill. At the same time, I added the lip which will hook on to the back of the abdomen piece. Do note that instead of gluing it right at the top of the back plate, I glued it further down, so that the hook will be as close to the back plate as possible, which will in turn ensure that when hooked on, the back of the abdomen piece will be closed up and there are no gaps between the TD back plate and the back of the abdomen piece when worn. So, after many (insert vulgarity here) rounds of puttying and sanding, I am finally calling this part done. I can still see a few imperfections, but I am willing to let it slide, and the white paint and gloss coat later on will hide most of it anyway. Here is the finished TD part 2:

Front cover strip Close enough to 20mm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Many thanks Randy, well hand surgery went better than the surgeon expected so that and with the blessing of the new DL I will be sticking around, sorry everyone

Thank you mate, I may use it while I finish my tactical scout trooper (non cannon) .