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I don't think I can stand seeing another thread along the lines of "I bought SDS armour - Can I join the 501st?" (not here I hasten to add!)

There has been discussion in regards to cleaning up the forum and trying to consolidate a lot of the more helpful info and How To threads, so yes this will be one that is added as well as many others, some older ones with incorrect info will also be removed. Also the team will be looking at trying to fix those missing photos and broken links, but that will be a long process.

Update: I have removed all excess glue residue and washed the pieces afterwards Have also bought a dremel, brushes and more knifes.

If I could make one suggestion, Don, it would be to add some reinforcements in the areas shown in blue below. The Anovos chest pieces have quite a history of developing cracks there, so if you add them now you can avoid the repairs later. The easiest way to do it is to use some scrap ABS strips (at least 1/4 inch wide), cut them into curves to follow the contour and attach them with E-6000. If you do this, be sure to use one continuous strip in each area to avoid any weak spots.

Been a while without an update... have been working on the build and making progress:

Thanks all! I’ve given my belt a haircut and trimmed the back of my thighs which now look and feel much better. Thank you all - hope to see you on future troops!

Hi all , Looking to go TK , is this armour a good one? . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Looks like you are well tooled. I am a bit lazy so I have 3 Dremel's (well cheaper versions) all with different tips, cutting, drum sander and drill/burr tool, it slows me down having to swap them out. Good luck with the progress.

Update with Silver Hovi tips.

Looking good ! Keep on doing a great job trooper !!

A foam brush may not be able to hold much of the product on it, but you can certainly give it a try. I would suggest a 2 inch wide "chip brush" which you can pick up at Lowe's or Home Depot. Cheap, effective, and disposable. For some more detailed info., you can also check out the FAQ section toward the bottom of the page here: https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/

You can, but you need to be careful. The brush-on type is kind of runny, and there are overlap connections inside where the cap part overlaps the face-plate and you don't want it seeping in between them too much (see photo). A little oozing is fine, as the ears and brow will cover it. I would suggest very thin layers with ample dry time in between to prevent this. As I mentioned in the previous post, sanding down and then thoroughly cleaning the entire inside is HIGHLY recommended to help it adhere to the ABS.

Good call, Dave! Although not required for basic or higher levels, this is always a good idea as this helps prevent the sharp corners from snagging on your under-suit and makes for a better look. It is also screen accurate, as seen in the photos below.

Looking good!

Thanks guys![emoji16] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Looks Great Andrew, Almost there Trooper !!

I know Ive said it a couple times, but I’m still packing up the stuff to send to you. Life and such, as it goes... I’ll check your posts and our PM’s again to see what else you need.

Exactly how I did it Joseph. Make sure you follow the old carpenter adage: Measure twice, cut once. Instead of using a knife, I actually used a plastic scribing tool. Google “plexiglass glass scribe tool” and you will see what looks like a knife with a hooked blade. You can find these in hardware stores and they are used to scribe and snap clear acrylic sheets. I found that the knives have a tendency to wander off the ruler. The scribe tools are easy to use. Start with a light pass, then a couple heavier ones, and then you snap. Jonas, make sure you glue the proper side down. The ABS has a very shiny “outside” and a duller inside. Once I cut the ABS, I just ran a sanding sponge up and down the snapped edge. This cleaned things up really well. You may want to take a file or some sand paper and sand all the corners to a 45 degree angle. I’m not sure if this is required by the CRL, but it makes it look good.

I'd like to see a prototype. Right now my helmets are infamous for being spartan, e.g. I have a single pad at the top of the dome, mesh is taped in with painters tape, lenses are similar. I mean it's pretty raw. I keep thinking about putting vox/fans in my helmet, but personally I don't like boom mikes or having wires run down my collar. One of my garrison mates was able to get everything 100% contained in his lid, which I thought and still do that it's the ideal. I'd love to hear your ideas on how to improve vox as well, as ideally I could have a toggle that would allow me the following: * No augmentation * Speaker * FRS or similar so that anything I say can only be heard by others listening in * Cell phone Even if I had to have a chin toggle, e.g. I pushed a button or similar with my thumb to a switch in the helmet chin, that would be fine.

done

Almost there Rob, there's no way back Trooper !!!

sure thing, the smaller fan size is 35mm x 35mm x 10mm

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Welcome Austin, you have come to the BEST DETACHMENT in the Legion always remember: Always ask questions...... Research, Research, & more RESEARCH !!! Post pictures... we love [emoji3590] pictures !!! Measure 3x, cut 1x... Create a build thread.... Plenty of PATIENCE !!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk