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I'll post pics tomorrow as well when the glue dries. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Name: Daniel Reid Username: p4ntb0y TK-52394 Japanese Garrison Armor Maker = RWA Helmet Maker = RWA Blaster Type = Imperial War Fighters Height = 5'7 Boot Maker = Imperial Boots Canvas Belt = RWA Hand Plates = justjoseph63 Electronics = TRamp Neck Seal Type = Soulart Holster Maker = RWA Front Back Side Action Shot Belt Strapping and white elstic TD Gloves neck seal boots Shins Thighs Arms Helmet Blaster Thank you !

CONGRATULATIONS!!!

Thank you for all of your help! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Those adjustments are suggestions that we feel would make your armor look even better. You are Centurion so you don´t have to do anything and don´t do anything that you´re not comfortable with If you choose to make adjustments I suggest you post them in your build thread

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the Centurion ranks

Hi again Pam. and thank you for your Centurion application - let’s get you approved shall we! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Centurion! On behalf of the DO team and myself, many congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we discuss areas that could benefit from additional improvement. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Most of the suggestions to follow were made during your EIB review, we don’t mean to nag but we still feel these suggestions would make your armor shine to it’s absolute best - let’s get to it! You did great on your build and we only have a few small suggestions to make and starting with the helmet we see that the ears are nicely fitted. The majority of Stunt helmets also had a bit of a lean to them, as seen in the reference images, so if you feel up to it we feel this would ad even more to that ANH feeling. The belt is fine as it is but same as with the ears, some small tweeking and it would be perfect. In this case raising the center part of the belt a smidgen. Turning to the back we feel that there´s still room for improvement by tighter strapping. Moving on we have the TD and idealy the screws are positioned closer to the edge and further apart. We also suggest not making the bends so pronunced (full arrows) and to add that little bend on the ends for uber ANH magic. We know how much work you put in to get that sniper knee in line so we just want to point out this pesky glob of rebel-glue still stuck on there, some rubbing with a finger should get rid of it. And that´s it - great job and head on out as a Centurion for the Empire!

Update! Leg cover strips glued! Got to clean off excess glue...then done![emoji16] oh and shape up the bottom some. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Yes, correct. On the Southside, VaBeach.

Like Ukswrath said, your armor, your choices. Strap things how you want, trooper! That said, what issues are you having with your snap attachments? How are you attaching the snaps to the armor? Snap plates or webbing? What type of glue are you using? Typically snaps can be difficult to remove from each other if you don't have the snap reinforced inside the elastic/webbing. I like to make a "sandwich" of sorts for my snap attachments that makes removing them super easy. I mean, so easy that you can flick the snap off with just one gloved finger. They literally "pop" off quickly when I need them to. Using a piece of scrap ABS, cut the plastic to fit just inside the width of your elastic and snap. Make a hole in the plastic where the snap will go through. Wrap your elastic around the plastic and set your snap! Don't use super thin plastic on this, or else it won't work well. I like the plastic bits to be about the same thickness as the cover strips, so any scrap material from that is awesome to use. This method makes it really easy to quickly remove your snaps without any struggle. It also extends the longevity of your elastic/webbing attachments because there is no strain on the material at all. It takes a little more time to set snaps with reinforcement like this, but I never have to replace them due to them wearing out on me. FYI, I've glued all of my "armor side" snaps into the armor using 1" nylon webbing and e6000. They conform well to the shape of the armor, and I've never had an issue with them coming off. In my opinion, velcro can be troublesome for various reasons while out trooping. It can be difficult to dress yourself when at a troop when using velcro; the adjustments might seem easy to do at home with a full-length mirror, but often in the real world, we don't have a mirror of any kind to check how the suit looks before going out. Velcro can hold well for shorter periods of time, but could come apart and need mid-troop adjustment during longer troops (I've helped some troopers with this myself!). With my first kit, I seriously considered velcro for all of my strapping, but I didn't like how I had to readjust my kit every single time I put it on. And a true story: I helped a fellow trooper tailor his kit to fit last year, and it was all velcro inside. He was here for almost 6 hours, and there was a lot of try-on-take-off to do. And guess what... we spent a good part of our time making adjustments the velcro strapping (when he put on the kit) instead of spending that time shaping the armor. I ended up using velcro during most of my fittings to achieve my perfect fit, then I installed snaps/elastics adjacent to the velcro, and then I removed the velcro. Velcro was kind of like training wheels for my armor, and making the leap to snaps was like taking those training wheels off. Just a suggestion, of course.

As Brien mentioned, Doopydoos (link below) is a great kit. The cost (with shipping) is about $85.00, and you can also upgrade it with one of Tino's finishing kits to bring it to a much higher level of accuracy. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/ https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp Here is a fantastic resource for the build if you decide to go that route: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/

Hey Robert, Thanks for your patience as I work through your application for EIB. I am going to point out what Joseph has brought up already and that's your tube stripes. Per the CRL for EIB (Level 2) the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. Take a look at the images below and you'll see how they follow the contour of the cheeks and have a slight bow to them. If you could go ahead and take care of that and post up some photos I'd appreciate it. This should be a relatively easy fix, I remember being so edger to assemble my bucket that I put the tube stripes backwards..lol Easiest way is to use some to the blue painters tape to apply over the top and get underneath the original just enough for it to come up but still be stuck the painters tape so you can reposition all of them at one. Reference photo

Ill get that! Thank you!

Congrats Jason, and welcome to the rank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have ATA ANH , it's light and have thick ABS

Right Shin Cover strip outside inward[emoji3] Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Hi Christopher, There quite a bit out there these days. To help get the most feedback, you might want to try posting this in the “weapons locker”. Personally, I went with modifying a doopydoos kit. This resin kit is low cost but is pretty detailed. To take it above and beyond, many builders opt for “T-Jay’s completion set” which includes many upgrade parts to make it more realistic. 3D printed ‘can’ be an option, however, they require a lot of sanding to make them look decent. Many just print and paint and these look a little rough, to my eyes. If you wanted a rubber blaster, Praetorian Blasters and Sheartech would be two that I would consider. Here’s a link to my own Doopydoos E-11 with the T-Jay’s completion set, if it helps. :-) Best wishes Dan

Once side of me is saying "this pack is not correct" with all the greeblies and such, BUT the other said is saying that is a awesome looking rig!

BIG push took place over the past two days to get this kit finished. Here's the story: I am going to attend a high-profile troop on Sunday in TK. Well, last weekend, I helped hubby get some epic photos in my TK. We used colored smoke bombs. Check it! So, the colored smoke actually deposited pigment into my armor several layers deep. Deeper than anything Novus 3 could touch. I had to resort to using 220 grit sandpaper, and even that didn't take all of the yellowed/red staining out of my kit. Moral of the story (and epic pics): Smoke grenades do not play well with plastic. So unless you plan on converting your TK to a TD, avoid smoke bombs at all costs!!! Which lead me to the reason behind fast-tracking my Hero to completion. My Stunt TK is in various stages of needing to be seriously polished, and it's stained in places where I can't clean. There is no way I would take it to a high-profile event in the condition that it's in now. This made my decision very easy: Get the Hero finished STAT! I spent the past two days fine tuning things for basic approval. I still have to trim a little from the right thigh for clearance, trim a little off the bottom of the right side back plate (both overlapping a smidge), stuff a wedge in the lower back plate for better fit/alignment, and install some fans into the lid. But, hey, it's done! First, the lid. And the pics for basic approval. My son took the pics, and my daughter was instrumental to make sure everything was in place! Then there were the fun pics. This kit is actually more comfortable than my first one, which came as a surprise to me! Today was the first day I put everything on and walked around. Happily, I don't have any areas of armor biting or loud rattling of the plastic. I have to figure out what's going on with the paint on the handguards, because it flaked off everywhere during the photos. Worst case scenario, I'll swap out these gloves for the ones from my Stunt kit for the troop this weekend. But overall, I'm thrilled to finally have the Hero I've always wanted to build. Now to finish hubby's Stunt TK, and move forward with converting my Stunt TK to a TD! And huge thanks to everyone for their feedback during my journey. I wouldn't be here without all of you here at the FISD! EDIT: Looking at these pics, I've decided that I need to size down the forearms a bit more. I never noticed it until I had the kit on, but they look a smidge too wide on my arms. Easy fix, though!

I like the big wheels of my Husky case, even though it's heavy. For troops where I can't fit my bin (very rare), I generally just opt for a simpler costume, rather than messing with repacking everything. It's easy to toss everything into the 50gal Husky bin, including extras, a substantial repair kit, helmet, etc... I could fit even more if I left out the padding, but there's really no need with a bin this size. I experimented with a lot of packing options, but have settled on this as the best comprise among ease of packing (with minimal disassembly), protection of the armor (I have 1/4" sheets of foam between each layer, and wanted to be extremely protective of the shoulder bridges so they're not under any strain), and fitting everything I need in there. Bottom layers: main clamshell halves, offset for betting protection of the shoulder bridges (also boots in the corners, not pictured) Next layers: Thighs, shins, arms, etc, all nested: Next layers: Pretty much everything else, including helmet: There's even room for a (plastic) mirror mounted in the lid! Super handy.

Vern, Only the military issued Sterlings were flat black.. ''matt-finish'' All commercial sterlings are Wrinkled. Any other country like chillie or New zealand did what they did. (sten gun finish) That video you posted, i actually have a complete dvd. The video is of DVD #77 wich is about magazines.. I have #1384 (pic's below) ''Sterling Submachine guns'' The one you posted is wrinkle finished.. But just becouse the Quallity of the video is so bad ... it doesn't show.. Here's a close up sample of the video you posted.. #77 Yes, that's a wrinkled finish allright.. Also he uses unpainted Sterlings in my video's for dissasembly purpose etc.. Some pic's you posted are worn wrinkled finish sterlings, Other are indeed wrinkle... There is no bumpty or wavy textured sterling l2a3 mk4 released (ever) Most of the Sterlings pics you find on the internet are worn to there under finish, or even overpainted... That's what you see... Pic's from DvD #1384 Nice wrinkled finish Yup that's how a wrinkled new looking finish looks like. (1977 ANH) pic of han solo's blaster (wrinkled worn) 1966 sterling with worn wrinkled finish here's another example of wich one might think (in your case) ''Bumpty Texture'' Looks kinda bumpty right ? But when you look closer... Here's a picture of a MKIII folding stock finish in NOS condition.. (no, apex wich i also bought off, doesn't cut it) http://imgur.com/a/p7BSk Also i think it's safe to say that this Promo shot is using a Wrinkled finish Sterling: With typical worn signs on the butt stock, and sides of the magazine housing that show the parkerized finish under the wrinkled layer. http://i.imgur.com/MnWZuvR.jpg \ Most parts kits or whatever are so worn down... one might think ^^ I don't know about your source ... but mine is right. I even ''today'' asked a person who has a MK III, ''wich he alway's thought of it being black matt etc..'' to remove his pistol grip... and after all these years he found out today that his MKIII with a very nice serial (if i must say) has a wrinkled finish underneath his untouched removed pistol grip.... ''he was much surprised, i might add'' .. ..( a TK member on this forum) That's a MK3 ... And this is how he looked upon it..''above the surface'' Didn't bring the book in this yet ... if you wish i might addBut this is based on the book, with users picture's provided. Vern, i have no problems with your believing in it, it's your opinion... But this is how i see it...