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M38 c asting ready

Thanks mate [emoji4] Yeah, I intentionally made them a bit longer than necessary. I figured was easier to trim off the excess later that add more [emoji1]lol Sent from my DH77 using Tapatalk

What happened to me was that the reticule lines were in focus until I installed the little lens at the front of the scope. Then everything went out of focus. Presumably because the length of the hollowed out blaster scope didn't match the length of the monocular. I just left it but I'm not sure if there would have been a way to correct that? Mark

@Dracotrooper, this helped a lot, thanks a bunch! @T-Jay, i had the same thoughts as you. The problem here is, the wodden piece is very thin, so if i would use the screws you are recommending, it probably would break. It already started to show cracks :-(... I removed some material as you mentioned for the screws. For the switch i need to do the same. Probably i need to make this out of metal... Got some progress again today, pictures to come in the eventide... Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

I would echo exactly what Brien said about the nylon instead of ABS, and nylon also conforms to the curves of the ABS better. Pardon the pun, but I would stick with E-6000 for everything. CA (super) glue can heat up while curing and cause the issue you mentioned. E-6000 does not. CA glue can (and will) become brittle after time and cause the connection to fail.

THIS is a crazy cool idea, Marko. Very nice. May I just kindly suggest to use countersunk screws for this?! The power of the magnets is limited and you will need to bring them as close as you can. Otherwise you risk losing your magazine. If you do not have such screws, you could also drill 4 holes into the bottom corners of your magazine to make room for the current screw heads. No matter which way you go, just try to eliminate that air gap between the magnets in the magazine and the ones in the housing.

Whaaaat??? I was worrying about what could have went wrong and it was just the glasses. Basically yes. If you look at the first image below, this effect depends on a specific distance between the lens and the point where all the arrows meet. You are using that metal part from the monocular and this will ensure the correct distance for a good magnification without seeing the engravings of the reticle lens upside down. Just tested it. Works with and without glasses.

Nice work, just watch the heights of your thighs and shins, they are a little uneven on the back photo. You may also want to see if you can bring the butt plate in a little, it is angled backwards. If you look at your side photo you will notice your belt and boxes are angling downwards at the front, may need a little adjustment up or tightening. Also your forearms are on the wrong way around, small square on forearm box goes to the inside. Forearms in Jim's kits are pretty wide, a lot of people reduce the width of them a little but that's something you may wish to do down the track it won't hold you up for basic. Don't think your GML will have too many issues with your submission cough cough

Some people have had issues with snap plates, E6000 and a bump/deformation on the outside of the armor. I would use nylon webbing to attach the snaps if that concerns you, as that does seem to have a less noticeable/no bump from what I have seen.

I agree ears are diabolical, some great threads with some helpful info: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29238-my-helmet-ear-tutorial/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27375-howto-draw-an-approximate-ear-trim-line-with-no-gaps/

Thank you, Luc!! It does help! Been working away at them with much more success using that method (slightly modified in that I used some small axles instead of screws because that's what I had around).

Test fit of the shins with boots Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This magazine you have is quite accurate and only needs some sanding to clean out some rough parts and to make some edges 90 degrees. From the photo, in the middle part where you have the edges, make it 90 degrees where those two lines meet. It is this 90 degree edge that will sit against the edge of the magazine housing part. That wave like pattern on the inside is accurate - marvelous detail here. See below for a picture to give you an idea about where to shorten it. You can use the yellow line as a guide. The dotted orange line shows where the edges of the magazine housing needs to be fairly close to. Hopes this helps!

My pleasure, sir. Although the single snap is good for that connection, I would highly recommend using 2 on the shoulder elastic to shoulder bell connection. I have seen more shoulder bells come unsnapped and slip down during troops than you can imagine. Although most troopers use single snaps on the majority of connections, I went with the double snap method on most others on all my armor. Yeah, it costs a bit more and takes longer to do, but in my opinion it is well worth it to know that none of my connections will ever fail. The larger picture is not my armor, but I have the same setup except for the Velcro on the sides, where I also have double snaps.

Awesome thank you!

Late, but congrats on achieving Centurion!

Hi all We will be adding a few new rules to the Ongoing Sales & Project Orders section of our forums. These are not being implemented because of any wrong doing, but rather to bring the sale of armor on our boards in to line with other sales items. These will eliminate any grey area and are general common sense that our armorers have adhered to in the past These will be published in the October News letter and the rules added to the section on the 8th October Rule 10 is only amended 10) Merchandise and or armor must be "in-hand" and ready to ship before accepting payment . Interest threads are allowed to determine selling order. New rules 13) Armor vendors must be on the vetted makers list and only the armorer can list their products. No agents 3rd party or shills. 14) Photos of armor kit or completed build are to be posted in the sales thread along with price and expected time frame for delivery. 15) Only armor relating directly to the Detachment can be advertised in this section, no costumes outside the FISD CRL's This section amended to clean up excess info not required. Please note when paying for any product and/or services: PayPal is always going to be a safe way to send any payment. However, you must understand NEVER to send any payment via the "Gift" option for any product, work or services. PayPal will not cover any transaction under the "Gift" option at all. Always use the "Goods and Services", option when sending payments so, that you have recourse through PayPal if any problems should arise during or after the transaction. NOTE: You have a 90 window with PayPal to file a dispute/claim. Never send cash and/or money orders. These can easily be lost and never the reach the proper person. Plus you have no record for any recourse.