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I just got assigned my number! I am TK-42715! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Here it is, for your review! Feedback, please! I can take close-ups if anyone wants to see something closer. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got my number!!!!!!!! TK-42715 Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

So here is what people are seeing. Please READ and follow the instructions if you see this issue: Problem: You go to a topic and create a reply. You click "Submit Reply", but nothing seems to happen. Reason: the server is just running a little slow. Normally it takes a second before it "posts" your reply, but with so much load on the server it is just taking a bit. What to do: Wait. It may take 5-10 seconds to fully commit, but please just let it do it's job. What to do if that doesn't work: if after 30 seconds (clock seconds, not perceived "seconds") it's still not working, or times out, you can try using Tapatalk if you are on mobile. You can also email the admins as it may be that we are just spiking the sever. Why? Because traffic on FISD continues to grow, and like a crab we are outgrowing our "shell". Yes, we will move to the Legion servers later this year, but you may notice that FISD (and also IOC which is on the same server) are slow at certain peak times of the day.

Hey guys and gals, I finally finished my Stormtrooper blaster and I've been searching all over the internet for a suitable blaster stand to put it on display. I'm not really a fan of the transparent acrylic ones and any other stands I saw were either no longer being made, out of stock, or just too darn expensive. That's when I stumbled across Matt's Shack (click for the original blog article). Matt has created a great little stand that you can do on a budget. Parts were about $20 and the data plate was about $20, although I did have some paint and a wooden dowel left over from my blaster build so I didn't have to buy those. You can certainly follow Matt's article but I thought I'd post my build here since I made a few modification to the dimensions and hole spacing. Here's the completed stand: It's really easy to put together and something I built in a few days. Most of that time was waiting for paint to dry. Materials: Base : An oak board I got from Home Depot. 3/4" thick, 3 1/2" wide, 4 feet long, but you really only need 2 feet. Poles : 5/8" Wooden Dowel. 10 inches long is fine. Holder : 1 1/2" ABS Plastic Pipe Coupling cut in half Plaque : E-Bay (captain-america-tfa) Misc - 2 small screws for the data plate, 4 drywall screws for the dowel ends, black EVA crafting foam and contact cement for the padding. Build: Starting with the base. The 3/4" thick by 3 1/2" wide were already perfect. I just needed to trim the length to 2 feet. I used a router with a roman ogee bit to give some detail to the edges. Give it a quick hit with sandpaper to clean up the edges so there are no little bits of wood left hanging on. Next I painted the base with wood primer. My original idea was to get rid of the wood grain. I thought if I painted on several coats of primer and then sanded it down I would get rid of the grain and leave a smooth surface. That wasn't the case. After 4 coats and sanding, it pretty much did nothing to hide the grain and wasted a lot of time. Then I switched to filler/primer I had leftover from my blaster build and still no change to the grain. I figured fine, I'll keep the wood grain look. :-) Next I moved onto the pipe coupling... Using the grid guide on my cutting mat, I found the center point and cut the coupling in half. I sanded down the cut areas so they were nice and smooth and used a Dremel with a sanding drum to take off the little ridge in the center of the coupling. I marked the center point where the dowels would attach and drilled a small pilot hole. Then I used a 5/8" spade bit to make a recess for the dowel to fit into. Be careful not to drill right through your coupling. I cut a 5/8" wooden dowel into two segments. One 4 inches long and one 5 inches long. I painted the wooden dowels with primer and sanded them down with 400 grit for a slightly smoother finish. Next I drilled a pilot hole into the ends and used a black drywall screw to attach the pipe couplings to the wooden dowels. Next I used masking tape to mask off the center part of the coupling where the crafting foam will be glued. Then I used some leftover spray paint. I used Tamiya Grey Primer to prime the dowels and couplings and painted them with some Rust-oleum Silver I found in the cupboard. I then removed the masking tape from the couplings and cut two rectangles of black crafting foam which were glued onto the coupling with contact cement. Next I drilled the holes for the dowels in the base. I used the same 5/8" spade bit to drill a recess where the dowels will fit into. Maybe 1/4" deep. Again, be careful not to drill right through the base. These are the spacings I used for the holes. Measurements are taken from the outer edge of the board (not the edge of the routering) to the center of the hole. Then I painted the base. I had quite a bit of spray paint leftover from my blaster build. So even though it's not really meant for wood. I primed the base (again) with Tamiya Grey Primer and gave the base 3 coats of Tamiya TS-14 Black Gloss and 2 coats of Tamiya TS-13 Gloss Clear. These are the same paints I used for the handle (grip) of my E-11 so I had lots left over. Sorry, no photos of the painting in-progress. Once everything was completely dry flipped the board over to work on the bottom. The spade bit I used for countersinking the dowels on the top left a nice (smaller) hole in the bottom for the drywall screw. I just had to countersink this hole so that the base would sit completely flat. I drilled a pilot hole in the bottom of the wooden dowels and screwed the drywall screws in from the bottom to hold the dowels in place. (There's lots of overspray but I didn't care what the bottom looks like) Lastly I attached the E-11 Plaque I found on ebay from Captain-America-TFA. If you click this link it should take you to the purchase page but in case the listing changes, just search ebay for "Custom E-11 Blaster Plate" and you should find it. I think he's on ETSY too. I just used some small black screws I had leftover. That's it. I'm pretty happy with the way it came out. Mark

Name: Nicole Anderton Garrison: Timberline Armor: ATA Boots: TK boots Neck seal: handmade Belt: handmade Height: 5'6 Weight: 130 TK type: ANH Stunt Build: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44137-fodichans-56-female-ata-works-centurionhopefully-build/ Special thanks to Kaar121, lucnak, and Cricket for suggestions and encouragement. It is very much appreciated! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

The thread may be dead but I saved the images. I'm working to get them into the Gallery.

Great news, congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper

Nice job! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

HUGE congrats, Nicole! Way to go! Now the fun begins... trooping!

Woo hoo! Contrats TK-42715! You look amazing!

Updated

If you want that extra width to make you look bigger, and you already have all the foam in there you can stand, you might want to consider adding a kidney tab to stabilize things on the right side. The tab helps to 'lock' the alignment of the kidney and ab. Here's what I did on mine (there are many ways to accomplish this, go with what works for you!): https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41502-crickets-wtf-hero-build-even-more-tk-for-the-vertically-challenged/?do=findComment&comment=601645 It also looks like your strapping on the inside of the the kidney rivets might be too long, which is allowing the ab and kidney to move around a lot more than it should on the left side. If you shorten them up a little, that might help with some of the overlap issues. If things aren't fitting together as they are now, a hot water bath can do the trick to get the pieces into better form for your frame. The front and back halves of the armor should meet together nicely without any assistance from the belt to pull things together.

Second what Magni said. I had to do the same thing - to get the forearms to fit right I had to use slightly larger coverstrips. But then my biceps were a bit big - so I added some padding. My arms are sized so that i couldn't lose the ridge on the edge of the biceps - they would have likely been too small - unless I wanted to then build a shim. Another option I didn't try was removing the ridge (from the back at least) - then gluing them together (but not touching) with a wide inner coverstrip - and then adding a regular width coverstrip to the outside (that just barely covers the gap). This may have given me the room at the back I needed to keep the front coverstrip the same as my forearms (and keeping my biceps fitting my arms). I'm doing some building next week and will probably experiment with this option.

My GML approved my TK, and now I am just waiting for my number! Fixed the issue with the forearms and struggled to come up with action shots while my blaster is unpainted. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Where the radius of the curve is come down a little from that. From the center of radius if you get it. About 1/4" or so and start taper evenly from there to edge. Two things will happen. When you heat and bend them a thinner return edge is less prone to splitting or worse going wobble and comfort on shoulder of no return edge digging in. The taper isnt noticed with the shoulderstrap overlapping. Hope you get my point. Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk

Looking good so far! Great progress! For closing up the gap on the side. It looks like you have a lot of return edge on the pcs. Trimming them down a bit doesn't sound like much but you would be surprised. The gap on thigh: if you don't need to cut semi-circle notch in raised edge, I would take apart and reglue. It looks like coverstrip shifted anyway. Repainting frown: you should be nice and clean to repaint over but from the close up those teeth could use some cleaning of the flash in corners. Id remove mesh and clean them up with files if your going this far. The backplate on Anovos is cursed by that weird flare. I would trim dowm return edge on a taper to nothing at edge and draw a bath for it. We have a few members with cracks in that one spot. Flattening them down will help with comfort also. Keep up the great job. I follow but don't post often on all the treads. You're getting there!

thanks to you all))))

Boots have arrived!! I normally wear a size 10-1/2, so I ordered a size 11 and they fit great. Already started on my shins now that I have my boots for sizing.

Looking good! Everyone already beat me to my observations, so I'll just leave you with this: you'll have your TK number in no time at all!

Yeah, I noticed the bicep alignment as I was taking everything off. I'll be sure to fix that for my submission photos. I'll take a look at the right arm spacing as well to even them out. Thanks for the input! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the instructions Christine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Jeremy, Looking really good!! Great job :-) Just a couple of really small things I noticed. 1/ it looks like your right arm (left from front in pics) is higher than your left arm, leaving a bigger gap near the glove. 2/ you could possibly rotate your biceps by an inch or so to line up the side detail through shoulder, bicep, forearm. Superb looking armour on you! :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found a diet protocol that's been very successfully preventing my migraines, so now they only thing slowing my progress are the messed up back, neck, and shoulder muscles that cause cervicogenic headaches. My crappy posture plays into this in a big way. I finally started up again using a little sensor that vibrates when it notices me slouching. I've been wearing it regularly in the fall, but it gotten out of the habit. And apparently my body had gotten out of the habit of having decent posture, tell my pain levels had made it that I could barely get anything, let alone armor building, done! Between the physical therapy exercises and that, I'm finally starting to do better. Until I overdo things... Or forget to use the posture sensor... Or both in the same day... (Hey at least it's not a migraine.....) Well here's my current headache. Besides my health, I had definitely gotten distracted by a number of soft costumes I was working on. My Admiral Holdo is finished and Rebel Legion approved, and I'm waiting on one part before I submit my husband's TLJ Poe Dameron. Oh and it was way too freezing cold and are unheated basement to work on my armor down there, not to mention I wasn't going to add poisoning by inhaling E6000 inside to my list of health issues... But my brain was also super focused on those darn kidney return edges and how how much I hated how they looked. I started playing with the the ceiling iron a bit yesterday and today. And then this morning I mistakenly started thinking that the cranky return edges would be covered by my belt and therefore wouldn't really matter. So I got a bunch more work done. I added the bracket and elastic to the rest of the back. And drill the holes for the brackets for the rest of the front. Then, when I was laying down and resting my back after slouching over my exacto knife while trimming pieces for too long, I started looking at pictures and realize that oh no those return edges are plenty visible just below the belt. And then of course I see another build thread where it looks like you can just Mount those brackets differently in a way that I could have gotten away without messing with return edges. But I figure my torso is probably short enough that I should have done the return Edge thing anyway. At least that's what I keep telling myself. So how bad are these return edges? I got them maybe a little bit smoother than they were before with the help of the sealing iron. I'm sure I wasn't as patient enough with the ceiling iron as I should have been. But on a happier note I coated the inside of my bucket with Plasti Dip yesterday. And in defense of my procrastination on this project in favor of finishing my Vice Admiral Holdo, the base of her dress's neck piece is going to be totally perfect as the base for my neck seal! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm also using brackets on a wtf kit. Back and neck issues have kept me from making much progress since the fall, (combined with a couple soft costumes....) But I managed to add return edges to the kidney area. They are not pretty.... Need to post updates on my build thread! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those coverstrips are looking nice, (to my eyes). Regarding the gap between the bicep and the forearm, you’ll probably be best to work that out when your shoulder and gloves are ready. This way, you can look to achieve nice even gaps based on what you have. Nice gaps on Han’s suit: Just out of interest, are the top of the biceps comfortable? I see you’ve left a lot of return edge which looks like it could lead to some discomfort. It could also push your shoulder bells out due to the extra thickness. As this will be under the shoulder bell, you could get away with a lot less return, as per the pics that Tony shared, if you wanted. Just a thought. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome to the forum mate, and good luck with your armour, whatever you do. I’m an armour building novice, having only recently completed my TK armour. I can confirm first hand that the guys n gals on here are both very knowledgable and very helpful regarding all aspects of building a costume. I can also confirm and this is from someone with no prior knowledge of ABS that the repairs are indeed very simple to undertake, heck even I can do it, so it must be simple . Welcome, good luck in your quest for armour and ask any questions, someone will have the answer, oh and remember..... the only daft question is a question that’s not asked..... we have all been there not knowing what we were doing at some point .... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh I am not the creator. You are! i am a simple sword maker. You are the Samurai !

The creator has posted to my thread. This is a good sign

I do lurk

From what it sounds like the Council of WTF TKs demands it goes on the outside

Return edge Bad! Get rid of it. Won't do anything for you! With WTF the long sides are the outer halves. Shingate 2018!