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Looks like my Doopys kit will be arriving this week...had an email today to say it’s been dispatched [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Use your fingernail or a plastic piece. Nothing metal or “too sharp” should roll right off. I then went over it with a magic eraser and it cleaned the rest up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Inner bolt done! Gives a lot more stability to the charging handle... although the spring is fairly tough anyway so I don't think I'll be using it haha Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

EIB #2 is in

Information Name: Michael Tangen Garrison: Central Garrison - Minnesota Wolf Pack Armor maker: Ross Walmsley of RWA Creations Helmet maker: RWA Cloth belt maker: RWA Neck seal maker: RWA Boot maker: N/A - just some crappy boots I bought on Amazon that ended up having a seam on the front, the photos on Amazon didn't show the seam. These boots are also just temporary until I finish painting/dying my centurion-compliant boots. Height: 5' 10" Weight: 213 lbs TK type: ANH stunt Build thread Assistance: Ross Walmsley and the others at his Facebook page were immensely helpful in terms of providing advice, guidance, and feedback. Also, a huge shout-out to Ross who sent a free replacement helmet (already assembled) when I had messed up my first attempt at assembling it. Other than that, the entire build was done on my own, relying heavily on guidance through videos and Facebook. Photos (Full gallery can be seen here) Front view: Back view: Left side: Right side: Ab plate close-up: Helmet (front): Helmet (left): Helmet (right): Helmet (back): Interior strapping: Belt/detonator question: Where exactly is the belt supposed to rest when it wraps towards the back? Also, how is the detonator typically secured to the belt so that it doesn't slide around? Question on the back: is that too much of a gap in the back knees or is this acceptable?

Name: Daniel Melin TK ID: 99665 Garrison: Nordic Garrison Forum name: TheSwede Armor maker: TM (troopermaster) Helmet maker: TM (troopermaster) Blaster: E11 Imperial Warfighters Hight: 5'10 Weight: 202lbs Thank you for your consideration /TK 99665

Now make 1000 more and you can sell them on here. You’ll pay for that snap press in no time! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha thank you very much Dan - I really appreciate it

My advise is to try and comform the shins as much as possible to your leg (from your pic it looks good) and as tight as possible at the ankle to get that nice tapered look of the original armor and if done right (and depending on body type) you never have a problem with the shin riding over your boot or twisting for that matter. So tape it up like you have and take it through some serious walking and "running", if the shin stays in place your all set That`s beeing a Stormtrooper for ya It looks great

Thanks Greg Thank you Sir Thanks Shane Haha thank you Sean

Thanks everyone, I will end this thread by saying that since my adjustment to the torso by adding the extra strap my kit is so much more comfortable and the belt is an accessory not something holding the kit together. Thanks for all the comments and support now onto EIB

FWIW if you ever want, wrt to the belt issue you can have them comment directly on this thread. We write the CRLs after all.

Thigh looks good as long as there roughly 10mm at the thinnest return edge area. 2nd photo, cutting it a little close. You might want to consider reinforcing the inside with left over cover strip material. Similar to this.

PM sent. Don't want to hijack AJ's thread.

I don't know Daniel. Perhaps a little too Centurion? Beautiful work!

Well done, Daniel. You are building an army of outstanding.... wait, I’ve said that before!!! Lol You really do make, and wear, your armour incredibly well! 10/10 :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fantastic build. Good luck trooper!

Another stellar application, good luck.

Nice work, Daniel! I would say, "good luck", but I really doubt you need it

Centurion #2 is in

More Hengstler build getting closer still need and few more tiny screws

Ok, I've FINALLY made some descent progress on the counter. First up I used some cut up cigar box nails (really small) to fashion pins to hold the counter reset button in place. This is to give it some added strength in case it gets bumped. Hopefully it won't break off so easily. Then I added the screws from T-Jay's kit as well as one of my own to the counter. Replacing the poorly cast resin ones by grinding them out with a dremel. I also glued on the top plate and window that I made (correctly positioned this time) and filled the edges with "green stuff" to hide the seams (again). I should mention, I really didn't like working with "green stuff" at first. It's REALLY sticky. It kept sticking to my fingers and to any sculpting tools I tried to use to smooth it down and shape it. I got so fed up that I went to a local hobby store and picked up some modelling putty. It was Squadron Products fast drying, white putty, hobby filler. But you know what, I didn't like that either. It's a cream that goes on easily, but it's kind of "sandy" in texture and, worst of all, it wants to keep that sandy texture when it gets painted. Almost like wood the way it absorbs paint instead of paint sitting on the surface. Anyway, I went back to "green stuff" because it takes paint like plastic. Super smooth. And I learned to keep a bowl of water handy when I'm working with it. I keep my fingers and tools wet and the "green stuff" behaves better. I was getting really anxious to see what the counter would look like painted. So I took a break and built a little spray booth using 1" PVC plumbing pipe and some plastic "drop cloth" painter sheets. It's about 3 1/2 feet square. It's kinda cold this time of year and it's gonna rain for months so I can't paint outside. This way I can paint in the garage where it's at least a bit warmer. I also did something a little different with the counter window. Instead of trying to mask it off with tape, which would have been really difficult, I painted it with liquid latex. I dressed up as a zombie for Halloween last year and I still had some liquid latex left over. I gave the clear window about 4-5 coats, letting each one dry for several minutes before I started the next coat. This formed a barrier to keep the paint off but still something I could peel off easily. In this case I think it worked better than tape. Ok, big reveal.... Here's the counter with the liquid latex barrier still on... And with the latex peeled off... From the side: And a before/after: I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out. Makes me feel good about my first build. I'm not going to do any weathering yet. I'll save all that until the end. I think the power cylinders will be next... Mark

Ab Box Trimming and Shaping To trim the Ab boxes to the desired shape I used a contour tool. I didn't know this even existed until earlier this week. It made this task a breeze! I shaped the tops and bottoms of each box, making sure to keep the tools orientation correct (gotta be cautious of that or else you'll get the exact opposite contour that you desire!) I then taped the boxes to the Ab to get a rough fit. Overall not too shabby! Box D has a bit of a gap up top from over trimming the curve but I can fill that in later upon assembly.

Time for an update... I originally toyed with the idea of using a dremel to cut a recess into the top of the counter and place a photo of the counter numbers in there. Then covering it with the "ruler" window I made. But I was really nervous about using a dremel to cut a perfect rectangle and there wouldn't be much room to get a file in there to clean the edges. So I had a new idea.... I've got some spare plexiglas scraps laying around so I cut one of these scraps to the same dimensions as the top of the counter. Then I sanded the same thickness off the top of the counter. This way when I glue this plate to the top of the counter, the counter (as a whole) will still be the correct dimensions. Using the measurements from the Hengstler template, I marked the plexiglas with the locations of the counter window and the reset button. Then I cut out the rectangle for the window and filed it down so that my ruler window would fit inside. I actually had to make a second ruler window because my first was too thin now that it was to fit inside this new top. Luckily I still had lots of ruler left. (Now there's a sentence that possibly no one has ever used before. A friend of mine and I like to pay attention to unique sentences that may be new to the world.... "Luckily I still had lots of ruler left." This might be the first time anyone has ever said those words. I decided against cutting out the area for the reset switch. There's just not much plastic between the reset hole and the window hole and I didn't want to break things. So the reset button will be glued onto the surface later. I can re-enforce it with some little nails to help stop the reset button from breaking off. Next, I borrowed SIMpixel's counter number template from his build and made a few modifications of my own using Photoshop. I had some test numbers printed out at my local photo store. This example shows two different font sizes along with white borders and no white borders. The idea is to cut out the numbers and glue them to the counter. Then glue the new counter top and window onto the top of the counter, over the numbers. And that's what is drying right now so I don't have any photos yet. Also, I may as well mention that this progress didn't go exactly as planned. For my first attempt, I ended up gluing the numbers in the wrong location and glued the top onto the counter, also in the incorrect location. I had everything upside down. Of course, I only noticed this after filling all the edges with green stuff and getting it all perfectly sanded smooth. I had to pry it all apart, sand down the glue and green stuff and start again. Luckily I printed out several counter samples and I could also reuse all the parts after sanding off the old glue. That's it for now. Mark

Hi, It's coming right after CNY, in March

More Hengstler build getting closer still need and few more tiny screws

Really cool

If you unscrew them make sure to leave the bolts on above the cut, they’ll essentially re-thread the cut end afterward when you remove them.

Mmm, Shadow... next on my list (if I survive the TK).

So many builds going on right now, hard to keep track on them all and I´m quite pleased - for now Me and my son at Rogue One (not 501st approved FX kits I might add) uppdated pack on the left. . Updated the Shadow-bin Now they match

All in all been a good day at the Imperial factory