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This is going to be a very helpful program to many of the new recruits. I can't wait to see who the first participant will be!! Everyone have some fun with this and remember we are troopers helping troopers!

Hi everyone, I roll-up my sleeves a little higher here as I gather understanding and attempt to modify my doopy trigger and trigger housing to follow that of the real thing. I ready green stuff to soon add to my doopydoos trigger and make way in the trigger housing for a future installation. I finish off with a light show of sorts; enable better light transfer for my BlastFX LED light to travel down the receiver tube. I use a 1/2 inch outer diameter clear acrylic tube (plexiglass) to mimic the barrel following SMG references. Trigger housing as seen from the top following SMG references. Interesting to see component parts out. Here are some underside pictures of the trigger housing. The hole for the trigger goes all the way up and room to boot. Really liked studying these pictures of the FISD E-11 blaster reference photo compendium. Here, you can see the casing that goes over-top the trigger housing taken out. Here's a picture of Tino's replica trigger and SMG reference. This here breathes light on how the trigger actually worked. I gather that the trigger maintained constant 'push' pressure from that bullet looking component, the trigger plunger and in pulling the trigger, compressed the spring on the back of it. I will attempt to mimic this action but after modifying the doopydoos trigger piece and doing a little carving into the trigger housing. Use green stuff to add to doopy trigger to mold like the real thing following SMG references Tino's Replica SMG trigger used to mold after. Part of Trigger housing hollowed to make way for trigger and trigger axis pin installation To increase the light effects inside the barrel when invoking the electronics, will apply a half inch outer diameter with 3 / 8 inch inner diameter clear acrylic tube (plexiglass) over top the LED light. Frost it with 150 grit sandpaper. Frosted acrylic tube; it is no longer clear and can carry light down the tube Test light effects of frosted acrylic tube with red colored blaster bolts from BlastFX Test light effects of frosted acrylic tube with blue colored stun rays from BlastFX Thank you for checking up on me once again; have a terrific day!

Hi everyone, Below you will find a list of the various ANH kits (for now, I could look into ESB/ROTJ/etc. if demand is there) available and what hardware/accessories/soft goods are included or available as an option. This list was born out of a recent question PM, so I thought I'd expand it out by adding other armor makers and posting it for all. This list is meant as a companion to Joseph's excellent supply list, which I encourage everyone to take a look at: Additional vendor information can be found in this thread: Hopefully this will help all of you with your shopping/builds, as well as act as a resource for those aiming for EI/Centurion in knowing what to expect in terms of additional purchases that will be needed. Key: included included at extra cost other (see notes) not included ANH Armor Maker: AM 2.0 Stunt/Hero: Both Offered Contact: -- Strapping Undersuit Neckseal Gloves Hand guards: ABS (ANH, ESB, TD versions included) Helmet brow/S trim (only with FULL kit) Mic tips (ONLY with FULL kit) Canvas belt Leather holster Aluminum TD brackets Screen accurate TD screws Screen accurate ear screws (with FULL kit) Split rivets for ab/kidney and cod Single cap/rapid rivets for thigh ammo pack Armor Maker: ANOVOS Stunt/Hero: Mixed (Hero belt**, Stunt helmet) Contact: https://www.anovos.com/ Strapping: elastic & velcro included Undersuit: 2-piece Neckseal Gloves: rubber Hand guards: ABS Helmet brow/S trim (Helmets pre-assembled) Mic tips* (Helmets pre-assembled) Canvas belt** Leather holster Aluminum TD brackets Screen accurate TD screws*** Screen accurate ear screws*** Split rivets for ab/kidney and cod Single cap/rapid rivets for thigh ammo pack *Mic tip mesh is too fine to be screen-accurate. **Does not meet EI/Centurion requirements. ***Correct TD screws available through re-use of (incorrect) ear screws, painted black. Newer kits/helmets have correct ear screws, TD screws will need to be sourced elsewhere. Armor Maker: AP (Authentic Props) Stunt/Hero: Stunt only Contact: @ABS80 Strapping: left ab/cod snaps included Undersuit Neckseal Gloves: rubber Hand guards: ABS, silicone for additional cost Helmet brow/U trim (not S trim) Mic tips Canvas belt Leather holster Aluminum TD brackets Screen accurate TD screws: round head included, not pan head Screen accurate ear screws Split rivets for ab/kidney and cod cap rivets for thigh ammo pack Armor Maker: ATA (Affordable Trooper Armor) Stunt/Hero: Stunt only, Hero ears offered for basic approval Contact: @SuperTrooper Strapping Undersuit Neckseal Gloves: rubber Hand guards: ABS Helmet brow/S trim Mic tips Canvas belt Leather holster Split rivets for ab/kidney and cod Aluminum TD brackets Screen accurate TD screws Screen accurate ear screws Single cap/rapid rivets for thigh ammo pack Note: Hard armor only. Soft goods not included or offered separately. Armor Maker: RS Prop Masters Stunt/Hero: Stunt only, cast from screen-used suit Contact: http://www.rspropmasters.com/ Strapping: screen-accurate bracket system Undersuit Neckseal Gloves: rubber Hand guards: latex Helmet brow/S trim Mic tips Canvas belt Leather holster Split rivets for ab/kidney and cod Aluminum TD brackets Screen accurate TD screws Screen accurate ear screws Single cap/rapid rivets for thigh ammo pack RT-Mod: (email sent, pending response) Armor Maker: RWA Stunt/Hero: Stunt only Contact @Ross8008 Strapping: snaps, rivets, nylon, elastic, bra hooks and velcro* Undersuit Neckseal Gloves: rubber Hand guards: ABS Helmet brow/S trim Mic tips Canvas belt Leather holster Split rivets for ab/kidney and cod* Aluminum TD brackets Screen accurate TD screws Screen accurate ear screws Single cap/rapid rivets for thigh ammo pack* *Included in strapping kit. Armor Maker: TM (Troopermaster) Stunt/Hero: Both kits offered Contact: @troopermaster Strapping: screen accurate brackets OR snaps* Undersuit Neckseal Gloves: rubber Hand guards: ABS included, latex for additional cost Helmet brow/S trim Mic tips Canvas belt Leather holster Aluminum TD brackets Screen accurate TD screws* Screen accurate ear screws* Split rivets for ab/kidney and cod* Single cap/rapid rivets for thigh ammo pack* *Brackets and hardware sold as full strapping kit. Armor Maker: WTF (Walt's Trooper Factory) Stunt/Hero: Both helmet versions offered Contact: @walt Strapping Undersuit Neckseal Gloves: rubber Hand guards: ABS Helmet brow/S trim Mic tips Canvas belt Leather holster Split rivets for ab/kidney and cod Aluminum TD brackets Screen accurate TD screws Screen accurate ear screws Single cap/rapid rivets for thigh ammo pack Note: Hard armor kits only. As this is a new thread and currently a work in progress, if anything is incorrect or out of date, please let me know either in this thread or via PM and I will update it. I don't plan on adding FX or any other armors that are out or production, as this list is meant to focus on kits that can still be purchased. Vendors: to get added to this list, please contact me. If your kits or options change, please let me know.

Excellent! What an accomplishment! Exposing electronics on pulling back the bolt is a superb idea; you pulled it off beautifully, not to mention the electronics you incorporated. You set the bar high for those looking for the next challenge [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cannot wait to see your work to mimic the trigger group interior. You are scaring me, man. This is such an outstanding build.

Hey Mike, you kept your promise to complete the build by Sunday Congratulations on this achievement! Your blaster not only looks excellent, you also managed to combine the movable bolt with the electronics! Hats off to your work, man. I really hope you will have a lot of fun with this outstanding blaster. Like Dan already said, a little video clip would be the cherry on the cake.

Mission complete. Just a few minor paint fixes. Sliding bolt with electronics is too cool. Lots of fun building.

I worked a little more on the counter today. Grabbed an old car fuse and chopped it up. Used the parts for the electrode part of the counter. It may be a little "idealized" but I like the shape of the contacts. :-) I also drilled a small hole in each of the metal fuse parts in the side that fits into the socket. That way the glue has a little more to grab. Just needs a bit of "green stuff" to fill the tiny gaps either side of the socket where I had to cut the slit for the metal parts. Mark

AM (2.0) added, working on RWA, WTF and RT. Any other vendor requests please let me know!

Cheers, Brien. That would be Ross8008 on here.@ross8008 I’m happy to contact him through other methods if that helps. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

WHAT THIS PROGRAM IS: A dedicated forum where members can submit their completed stormtrooper costume for peer review prior to formal submission to their GML. Your armor will be reviewed and suggestions made by the FISD Staff and Imperial Attaché team, but detachment members can also provide peer review on any submission. All feedback provided will be specific, constructive, respectful, and helpful. Any feedback that is deemed negative, derogatory, inflammatory, or otherwise offensive will be deleted, and the poster can be subject to account suspension for repeated offenses. You may also be provided suggestions for attaining the rank of EI (Expert Infantry) and Centurion levels should you wish to pursue higher levels of screen accuracy. WHAT THIS PROGRAM IS NOT: This program is not a replacement for the GML approval process, as Detachments are not charted to approve costumes for membership. While a costume that passes Detachment peer review should be in a state to be accepted by a GML, Detachments cannot override a GMLs decision, nor are GMLs bound to accept the ruling of a detachment costume approval. That said, as a general rule the goal is that any costume that passes peer-review approval should be accepted by a 501st GML. WHAT YOU WILL NEED TO SUBMIT: You will need to post up various high quality photos of your armor/accessories on the list below, as well as the basic information listed next to it. We realize that this is more information than normally required for basic approval, but we want you to look your best! Also, please include the name(s) of any approved Trooper(s) who have significantly helped you with your build. Yes, we are asking for more photos and information than are normally needed for basic approval. The reason being is that we feel it gives us a better overall view, and we can catch things that may be missed should the recruit want to move to level 2. PHOTOS: INFORMATION: 1. Front view (arms down) 1. First/last name 2. Back view (arms down) 2. Future Garrison/Squad/Outpost or local area 3. Left side (arms raised) 3. Armor maker 4. Right side (arms raised) 4. Helmet maker 5. Ab plate close-up 5. Cloth belt maker 6. Helmet close-up (front, left and right sides) 6. Neck seal maker 7. Detail photos of any parts you have questions on 7. Boot maker 8. Interior strapping (optional) 9. Blaster maker (if applicable 10. Gasket maker (if applicable) 11. Height (optional) 12. weight (optional) 13. TK type (ANH Stunt/Hero. ESB, ROTJ. TFA etc.) 14. Name(s) of any Trooper(s) who significantly helped with your build. INSTRUCTIONS FOR POSTING YOUR REVIEW REQUEST: 1. Go to the Request Pre Approval thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/193-request-tk-pre-approval/ 2. Click on Start New Topic. This is located on the left of the blue "Reply to this Topic" option near the top of the page. 3. In the Title area, post the following information: (Fisd screen name) Requesting Pre Approval Review, followed by the armorer who made your kit in parentheses. Example: MegaTrooper123 Requesting Pre Approval Review (Anovos) 4. Post all required photos/information (as listed above). HELPFUL LINKS: 1. Where can I get in touch with my GML/Garrison? http://www.501st.com/members/displayUnits.php 2. Where can I choose my official TK number? http://www.501st.com/members/search_avail_ids.php 3. How do I join the 501st Legion? http://www.501st.com/members/join_form.php 4. What do I do once I am approved? https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/ ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ WHY WE ARE DOING THIS: Not every garrison has responsive GMLs, and even those that do are not always experts in the stormtrooper costumes. Costume peer review provides members with a supplemental feedback on items that need to be fixed prior to approval, as well as other feedback that will help the overall fit and finish. Catching errors earlier will result in increased confidence a build will pass GML review and thus save GMLs time. It will also provide GMLs insight in to a sounding board beyond the GML peer review area on the 501st boards. Additionally it provides non-GML forum members the opportunity to learn about and gain experience in the costume judging process. This is valuable because it can provide people considering being a GML real-world experience before accepting the role, and provides GCOs a potential pool of people experienced in costume judging who may not have yet served as a GML. ADDITIONAL INFO: 1. Any feedback that is negative, derogatory, inflammatory, or otherwise offensive should be reported immediately, will be deleted, and the poster may be subject to account suspension for repeated offenses. 2. Feedback should follow the same format that Deployment Officers use, e.g. for each item to fix they will be marked as “must fix”, “should fix”, “could fix”. 3. “Approval” only covers base 501st acceptance (aka L1). Expert Infantryman (L2) and Centurion (L3) standards can be cited only for “could fix” items and are never “must fix”. 4. For GMLs, this is intended to catch errors early to make your lives easier. This is not a replacement for what you do. Additionally, since detachments can't approve costumes, there is no concern that a Detachment will override a GML decision. 5. For GCOs, an advantage is that a 501st member in their garrison can gain experience in the costume review part of being a GML before they take on the role officially, and this may also for their Garrison provide an outlet for people considering being a GML, and a pool of experienced members should they need to fill that role. 6. For FB users, other TK Facebook pages can offer advice on their site that may or may not be correct. FISD is the official Detachment run by experienced 501st costume approvers the world over, and this is a service we can provide prospective and current 501st members that a FB group cannot.

Name: Daniel Melin TK ID: 99665 Garrison: Nordic Garrison Forum name: TheSwede Armor maker: TM (troopermaster) Helmet maker: TM (troopermaster) Blaster: E11 Imperial Warfighters Hight: 5'10 Weight: 202lbs Thank you for your consideration /TK 99665

FISD is pleased to announce the addition of a new area in the Advanced Tactics forum dedicated to those ready to submit for basic 501st TK approval. This section will allow future Troopers the opportunity to submit photos of their completed build to be reviewed by the Staff, Imperial Attaches and others in preparation for forwarding it to their GML for approval. Any and all advice/suggestions given will be specific, constructive, helpful and respectful. Please note that this program will NOT take the place of your local GML, as Detachments are not chartered for costume approval and can not override a GMLs decision, but is instead a peer review program designed to help you look your best and offer guidance and positive feedback. You will have the opportunity to ask questions about your completed armor, weapons (if applicable), accessories, etc. and get accurate information from the experts here at the FISD.. the definitive home of TKs worldwide. For more information on this program, you can find the following: TK Pre-Approval Forum Area: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/193-request-tk-pre-approval/ TK Pre-Approval Overview: TK Pre-Approval Requests: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/193-request-tk-pre-approval/

I'm watching your build too! Ha! You inspired me to go ahead and make those reenforcing strips and countersink my screws. However, your 3D printed work is fantastic. I just hacked my way through it . I've been wanting to paint once I started building my armour and got comfortable with the process. It feels like the right thing for me to do. I feel really positive about what I can achieve with hand painting. Never thought I would ever say that. Ever. Look what this forum does to people!

TIno and Dan thanks for the kind comments. I will get a video sometime this week. The electronics are super cheap on this build. I hope someone takes my idea to the next level. I am always learning on FISD.

Chris are you gonna sell complete kits as well?

Yowza - that looks lovely. Do we get an ‘in-action’ demo video soon? ;-) Excellent work. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I noticed that as well. I was worried to cut too much as the very first stormtrooper kit I made it cut too much off the thighs and spend a lot of time trying to repair them and in the end they never looked right. The thighs are one of those things that ppl see and if they are too small makes you look odd. I am considering trimming them though.

Superb! :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I learned so so much from today's test fit. For one, that top area of the ab has to go. Another thing is the upper part of my under suit needs to be tailored to fit better. I was bulging out of the elbows and armpits.

Nice! Good luck Joe, always good to see more ECG getting the higher ranks. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

With what you have now should get you EIB. Seams are allowed and it is like material. So you're covered there. But I hope you dont stop there. You already have the pcs. Just need a backer pc and some paste and some sand and polish you could go Centurion! Hopefully

Hopefully you will indeed be aiming for Centurion, Jeff. For basic and EI (level 2) requirements the return edge can be present on the wrist opening. For level 3 in can not, even in the "bump" area circled in red. (see photo below). If you are indeed aiming for level 3, I highly recommend removing them now. This is not only 100% screen accurate, but if you glue them to fit now and remove the edge later, the wrist opening will be too large. If you haven't seen it yet, I highly suggest checking out Tony's (ukswrath) build thread. Tons of great photos, details and information! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/

The wrist ends should have no return edge whatsoever for Centurion. Only trim the green shaded parts as needed for the cover strips/butt joints. No return edges are required for any level of certification. That is a matter of personal preference and comfort.

Uhhhhhh.... RAD?! I had no idea, but that's seriously awesome. Great tip in general.

E11 mage well complete!!!! and fully functioning

I do ,,, the one i scanned and copied had full knurl.... Probably for screen accuracy some of the knurl needs to be wore or sanded off..... The tab and hole on the bottom is for mounting. I have put a notch in my tube so it can be screw into the back of my front part.. Its really hard to blaze that piece on because its on the edge...

2018 - the Year of the Stormtrooper

PS: [email protected] does not appear to be a working email address.

Yeah! Finally! I think this is the sixth 'big brown box day' for me.

IV decided to fill in the indents with bondo and sand them till they look right. It's a really long process and I'm not 100 percent happy with how it looks, but it is better than before. I should be finished painting tomorrow

I’ve used only tape and paper 5 coat of plastidip the final resoult Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

Helmet done Edit: forgot to paint the ear screws Immediately started trimming and the torso and shoulders/bridges are done and that`s it for today *woop woop*

Of course! Steal away! I have finally made the leap and ordered my spray chroming materials from http://angelgilding.com/. Based on gordontarpley videos on YouTube, as well as his personal assistance (I'm sure he cringes every time Messenger shows me pinging him!)... I'm doing the Alclad system. That said, Gordon has a lot of tips and tricks for saving both time and money... So instead of ordering an entire kit, I am ordering: 2-Part Spray Silver Concentrate, 120 ml Uni-Coat Lightfast Tint - Violet, 2 fl oz Sensitizer for 2-Part Silver, 30 ml Wetting Agent, 60 ml Measuring Cylinder, 250 ml Measuring Cylinder, 50 ml Then, at a local car shop / PepBoys, I'll get a urethane clear coat & hardener as the final step, rather than the super expensive stuff on Angelguilding.com. (Naturally I expect to find it expensive everywhere.) I already have a few other items, such as Turtle Wax polish; I need to get more cans of Krylon gloss black, I have a trigger, a 1000 ml cylinder, I need a proper respirator. The final killer will be to find an airbrush, ideally to borrow from someone, but at worst I'll buy one, and an air compressor, which I can buy, borrow, steal, or rent, and two gravity-fed bottles, and two regular spray bottles, and I have sandpaper galore. This is how I understand the procedure at this time: Step 1: Wash the dust, static, tape grime, and so on off in a warm bath; rinse with distilled water. Step 2: When dry, paint gloss black. Sand with 2000 grit if needed to smooth finish. Buff. Step 3: Wipe on car polish with a barely damp paper towel until the mirror reflection is incredibly sharp in the paint. Buff lightly. Step 4: Dilute and spray on Wetting Agent with spray bottle, as evenly as possible. Step 5: Dilute and spray on Sensitizer. (Gordon is mixing them and doing it in one step, we'll see if I can get clarity on measurements.) Step 6: Mix and airbrush silvering agent onto parts using finest spray setting and 15-20 PSI, 2-3 inches from the part, in sweeping motions. Step 7: Buff lightly with tissue or toilet paper frequently during silvering; touch up any exposed parts. Step 8: Mix violet tint into clear coat and coat the parts; follow up with hardener. Step 9: When cured (not dried), paint on Elmer's Glue for weathered look. Scrape or rub off areas to reveal shiny. Step 10: Assemble parts. I estimate 4 full days, including Thanksgiving Day if my husband is cooking and I don't get my stuff until Monday: Tues, Weds, Thurs, Fri. This weekend is all washing, painting, polishing, and maybe doing some more cape prep if I need a break. I do have one child's soccer game and one Make-a-Wish appearance tomorrow, but WE CAN DO THIS! Hopefully in that span, my new accessories from Thorssen will arrive and I can chrome them too; if not, I'll be using the stretch vinyl chrome on all those temporary parts. I seriously am crazy.