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Hello everybody, as a total newbie in this hobby I am interested in your thoughts and comments about my blaster build. So far I had no experience with props, resin, weathering and postings in this forum . Chose the E-11 resin kit from DoopyDoo's in the U.K. as the blaster has to be light-weight and low-cost. Was surprised by the "one-pieced" folding stock, had not seen this before. The quality of the resin is really good. Only a few minor issues had to get fixed with "green stuff". My aim is to make the blaster realistic and stable, also to give attention to some details. So I decided to replace and/or upgrade some parts. Let's start with the handle: - real screw for "FREE & LOCK" (can be rotated) - functioning trigger (with a spring from a ball pen and a nail) - rotatable selector switch - real hexagon screw at the bottom (M6) - two stabilising screws to mount the handle (both will later be invisible) Let's move on to the next part: - drilled all holes on the bottom side (11,0mm) - two real M6 hexagon screws at the front (M5 simply looked too small as you can see in the comparison shot) And now the folding stock. This really caused the most work (up to now ). But I wanted these details . - drilled all fake holes (including folding stock releaser) - front lock (simple screw with some insulating tape and a short heat shrink tube) - two stabilising screws to mount the folding stock (will later fill heads with "green stuff") - drilled all holes on the bottom side and made an inlay to simulate the metal bar in the background Magazine and magazine port were next. The 4 corners got angled according to a reference picture from the original Sterling. There are different angles on front and rear end. Then I placed a 5mm LED with a washer from the inside and filled the magazine with some foam. Looks like too much foam, but it works: if the head of the LED gets pushed, it immediately comes up again . One of my biggest sorrows was how to get a nice "OFF ->" engraved on the top of the magazine as the real guns have. You may have noticed the black tape in the last picture. This was just to cover my first attempt . Then the idea: I still have a lot of this "green stuff" and borrowed something nice from a co worker (many thanks to W.A. for that). While doing this with the magazine, the serial number on the mag port also got changed (because it is the same on all DoopyDoo's kits). Okay, okay - the power cylinders will later cover this place anyway, but I am currently not sure if these will be used. A long screw got drilled through the magazine port to provide more stability when it later gets glued. Ouh, before all this got done, a small black allen screw was added to replace the resin version. When checking a few reference pictures some day, I noticed this little metal thing on the magazine. Looks like it avoids inserting the magazine too deep into the port (not sure). Unfortunately this is not included in the Doopydoo's kit, so I started with some aluminium from scratch... I am happy with the result and it looks okay (to me). Exactly one day later, I met Darth Chridan (best regards by the way ) and he gave me a resin version for free . Thank you very much for this!!! Now I have to decide which one will be used at the end. Any comments on this? Which part would you choose? And what about the power cylinders? With or without? Let me know, what you think about it. Will try to post the next update soon.

Freshly approved, already submitted my EIB application, and scheduled my first troop! Even found some droids!

Voted! Lots of nice designs.

Superb modification - sounds nice and loud too [emoji1][emoji106]!

No reason to cycle the lights, Mike. The only thing I would suggest is to add a "silent second" to the end of every sound - so you can release the trigger at the correct moment.

Amazing job. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sound cards work.

Hi Mike, glad to see you are working on this blaster again. Lights look good. Do they stay active as long as you keep the trigger pulled? Cannot wait for the sounds and looking forward to your next update.

Blaster and thigh garter arrived Thursday and Friday respectively: Biceps complete: Sniper knee plate installed (lots of clamps!!!): Thigh fronts glued (will do the backs tomorrow):

Here is a pic of the barrel (10mm hollow aluminium tube) and the chamber. Just as before with the 2.54 jst I rigged the 1.25 jst and RBG LED (with 12 ohm resistor) and sealed in resin. The trigger wires are the power in. Two power outs. One to the RBG in the barrel and the other will be to the sound cards. Now I just gotta paint it black

Great work!

Very nice work

Well. . . Migraines and life have kept me from making much progress. HOWEVER, today I realized I could paint with my head wrapped in ice while sitting on the couch. Painting is taking much longer than I thought it would. Here's what I've done so far freehand. I ordered the hand painted effect stencils from trooperbay and will continue with all the stripes when they arrive. How much do I need to clean up what I've done so far? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are getting closer and closer and I agree with you about the paint and regarding the return edge there really isn`t any that you can`t trim of if it bothers you...having returns isn´t a requirement in the CRL so it`s up to personal preference...if you aim for Centurion then there can`t be any at the wrist ends of the forearms...so...trim away personally I like to keep as much as possible for that "thick armor look" the chest piece is looking great by the way

Here is a link to YouTube. Lights and selector working. Now onto the sound card install.

We had the same at Paris Comic Con too. Two Executioners, one Phasma, two Pretorians, and three TFA stormtroopers. Neat statues!

Thankyou

I'm just going to leave these here. ENJOY!

Nice work Brien

Made up the last of the torso/chest/back strapping: (Started thinking I'd go with dual snaps and changed my mind, hence extra holes) Strapping (nearly) complete! (Still need to glue down the chest/back after some final fitment tweaks.) Got the front of the shin/calves glued up: Put some reinforcement on the back of the shoulder covers since I've seen quite a few in our garrison snap them in half: A question for those more experienced... should the posterior be this low? If not, do I need to cut it down? Hoping it's just that the cod/posterior strap hasn't been installed yet (waiting on a split rivet!).

Here are pictures from my DoopyDoo E11 blaster, I uploaded the new code using the Star Wars font characters, this is how it looks like on a 128x32 OLED display:

Got shins fitted yesterday - would love feedback on fit/finish: (Yes, I know the boots are wrong. Needed something until my IB order arrives!)

Not much time to work on armor today. Replacement mic tip mesh and belt rivet caps arrived yesterday. Also ordered some boots and Ty's garter system (this one) which will both hopefully be here before the 14th... still hoping to get this done (well, "done") for the Battlefront II release.

I couldn't help to look up the reference for you - Tino is spot on about alignment.

I made this schematic drawing of an E11 blaster to show what type of components I used for the blasters I've built. I think a picture tells more than a thousand words, therefore instead of a list I decided to go with this: If you have any enquiry about any of these parts, I can gladly link in where I got them. Mostly on ebay, and directly from Adafruits, they have amazing neopixel stuff.

No problem, those guys are the hero’s for posting their videos. Glad it helps. Yeah, it was really cool when they posted the videos to show how it works. Fun detail to replicate for sure.

Looks really good,,,, thanks for showing some of my parts.. Keep up the progress on all your builds