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Forgot to add a few pics so here they are......Hope these help. The strapping system viewed from the inside The ammo pack on the right knee (single capped rivet on both sides) The interior of right knee The canvas belt detail ....and the plastic part The gap between the Ab and kidney plate (left) ...and the right.....

And so it begins.... Received my kit from MTK and it's time to get started!

Name: Steve Dredge 501st ID: TK10450 501st Profile: https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=23009 FISD Forum Name: TDStig Garrison: UK Garrison Armour: RWA Helmet: RWA Blaster: Doopydoos resin parts on uPVC pipe. Sight and Hengstler Counter from Tosche Traders Height: 5'6" (167cm) Weight: 211lbs (96kg) Boots: ISD Canvas Belt: Hand Plates: RWA Gloves: ISD Latex hand guards Neck Seal: RWA Holster: ISD Undersuit: Sondeco 2 piece Electronics: Rom FX (voice only) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hey guys. Finally decided to try for EIB status. While my kit is far from Centurion standard, I'm hoping that it'll pass EIB. FRONT RIGHT REAR LEFT ACTION SHOT CLOSE UP SHOTS LID (FRONT) LID (RIGHT) LID (LEFT) NECKSEAL BODY AB DETAIL TD BUTT PLATE STUDS GLOVES WITH LATEX HANDGUARDS BOOTS - SCREEN ACCURATE BLACK BOOTS PAINTED WHITE BELT AMMO PACK DETAIL BELT AND HOLSTER E-11 BLASTER Thanks in advance for any advice and suggestioms to get me up to the required standard.

Name: Ross Walmsley 501st ID: TK5509 501st Profile: https://www.501st.com/forum/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=5659 FISD Forum Name: Ross8008 Garrison: UK Garrison Armour: RWA Helmet: RWA Blaster: Sheartech rubber Height: 5' 10" Weight: 12 stone 6 lb Boots: ISD Canvas Belt: RWA Hand Plates: ISD rubber Gloves: ISD Latex hand guards Neck Seal: RWA Holster: ISD Undersuit: Extreme 2 part Electronics: trAMP Hi. its about time i got round to getting myself sorted with you guys please see the following pics of my 1mm ABS RWA ANH Stunt TK. The kit has had a bit of a battering as im always on the deck or sat in vehicles etc. Please advise on any extra pictures needed or any mods you require. This is the Standard i require kits to be built to for basic clearance on the UKG so will be interesting to see your system and standards . Hoping to get Centurion after i have sorted the EIB. cheers Ross, RWA.

Name: Nicholai Risvang TK ID: 80176 FISD Forum name: Risvang Garrison: Danish Garrison https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=23640&costumeID=124 Armour Maker: RS Props Helmet maker: RS Props Blaster Type: E11, RS Props Height: 171 cm Weight: 73 KG Boots maker: RS Props Canvas Belt: RS Props Hand plates: Latex RS Props Electronics: TRamp Neckseal: RS props Holster: RS Props I hope everything is there, can´t see that i missed anything. Otherwise I am sure that my fellow troopers in the detachement will let me know. ( advice and feedback is most welcome) Thank you, and hope to hear from you soon. Keep trooping!!

A delivery today as well and not the biggest box but welcomed just the same nice package! A vital part for the Hero-build and hopefully paint and assembly can start tomorrow

Clear coat will just give some depth to the shine, really depends what paint you use, for my FOTK which has to be painted I used automotive paint which you can either clear coat or not, I do prefer the clear coat finish and easier to buff off scratches. If you don't clear coat the more you buff the paint the thinner it will get.

Super cool scope today Hard to get the camera to focus thru it,, but it perfectly clear

Yikes! Who do you think you are? Luke Skywalker! well you cut all of it off. You need it across the bottom for sure and you should have a little on the armpit curves. At the minimum. You could take an Iron and cover with white cotton shirt and warm up abs and bend new edge. It would be tough across bottom. But could be done. The question is how will it look after and can you lose some size and keep the Ab covered. What make of armor is it? Maybe just get a replacement and lesson learned to do your research. Know for sure before you cut anything. Good Luck!

While return edges enhance the appearance (by giving an illusion of thickness) of the armor, they are not necessary for approval. In fact, if you are doing a screen-accurate "Hero Luke" TK there is no lower return edge on the chest plate at all since the armor had to be trimmed down to accommodate Mark Hamil's height.

Cheers bud. Stupidly nervous for some reason haha.

Is there any update on when Tapatalk will start working with the new upgrade?

Best of luck, Steve. :-)

Hey You guys, sorry for the late answer, but "family Vacy" is taking up most of my time... as well as a small "last minute troop" I am the " little white one" Here are the inside pics

Right on Ben, glad to have you interested! I've learned a lot since I started with my first helmet in TFA, and you'll see this in the resulting TLJ Helmets!

I’m definitely in!

Looking good Dana

Thanks guys for all the positive comments! It's real nice to see everyone being so supportive! After the dramarama with photobucket links, I've gone back and fixed all my previous images (it turns out that keeping your uploaded photos in posted order - and in a separate folder is actually a good idea and not me being slightly OCD!) For anyone wondering where they can store their photos, I decided to use my existing dropbox account - and by using the share option and changing the ?dl=0 at the end of the link to ?raw=1 you can the use the 'insert image from URL' feature to reference dropbox shared images URLs - very useful! Anyway - back to some TK building! I trimmed up the right thigh ready to go: Then the usual process of E6000, coverstrip, magnets - and then wait 24 hours! The next day... Then on to the back. I did this in two parts as I was gluing using more of the ABS beyond the cut lines (big thighs here!) ...with both sides glued, the tension introduced a bit of a gap at the front, so I glued an off-cut on the inside to neaten up the front: Much better now! Then I fitted the ammo pack with tandy rivets to the thigh - this was really satisfying to attach! ...and then finishing it off with a spot of gloss white Humbrol on the rivets: Moving on to the other thigh - rough cut and checking for alignment: ...fitted together with tape - the top didn't align properly! ...but one 'boiling water and gentle plier' treatment later: Much better ...and then onto gluing with reams of tape, and gluing an additional tab on the inside at the front again Thighs done! On to the strapping next time!

Hi Dana, That's very kind. I've thoroughly enjoyed the process so far and glad it helped sway your decision to hand paint. :-)

Nice work. You can always use a toothpick to make small adjustments to the stripes if needed. Toothpicks were my saviour. ;-) Just this evening I've ordered the components for my fans, switches and battery pack. Looks like we're at a similar stage. :-)

Hey Jens, if you're concerned about excessive space you can always remove the lower cover strip and remove material from each side, or you can leave it as is and just add foam to stabilize it on your arm. On another note if you plan on shooting for Centurion in the future go ahead and remove the return edge on the wrist side, it's a requirement. Hope this helps.

Just been catching up on this thread, your skills are astounding

Now, that's some good looking armour... :-)

I hope it will be worth the price for the winner. Collectors pay sometimes insane prices for the MR stuff - but i noticed many of the MR collectors don´t buy them for their accuracy to SW, more for them being licensed rare collectibles. Something i don´t get, i never owned (or had in hand) a MR i was satisfied with. Always one or more inaccuracies. Due to that experience i refrained from buying the DH-17 even when they could be grabbed for around/under 200. So i can´t give a definite answer for the DH-17. Replaced everything as soon as possible with real parts - just one of their Leia ANH DDC is still in my collection, but finally bought a second Margolin and have the other real parts, and as soon as i buld the ANH DDC i no longer need that MR toy abominaton (the second Margolin i have is already build as the ROTJ DDC).

oops... missed the action shot... Here goes a little " something something"

Okay, so I realise now I should have posted this thread in the ANH Build Threads.... but I see so many other build threads in the wrong place so I might as well keep it here unless I can get an admin to move it. So... on to my update. Outside of getting my hand armor from trooperbay.com and adding them to my gloves the main kit has had little progress this week. However I have focused on the bucket the last couple days. I re-adjusted the face and back to go more low brow. When we originally put them together I wasn't really sure which type I wanted, but after looking at pics (before starting to paint) I realized I wanted a low brow. So, that meant popping the rivets and making adjustments. Got the teeth cleanup and painted along with the vocoder earlier in the week. I wanted to get the ear caps in place before I started on the rest of the details. I'm not 100% sure I have the ear caps correct, but I am sure I can tweak them some after I meet up with my TK mentor sometime next week to get his input on them. My kit came with decals for the helmet, but I just don't feel like the decal kind of guys, so after looking at some other threads I decided on hand painting. I thought about getting templates, but decided to just wing it. My painting skills are fairly decent so I feel confident that I'll be okay without them. I do however think I will use the decals on the tube strips. Still thinking that part through. Tonight I was able to get the black down and 2 coats of gray on the traps, tears and era caps. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have time to paint the strips. Note: The weapon in the image is an E-22 I printed and built before starting my TK. E-11 is printed, just need to be assembled. Feeling pretty good about the lines. Needs a little cleanup I think.

Name : Brian McDavid 501st ID : TK18910 FISD Forum Name : Bri_McD135 Garrison : UK Garrison Build Thread : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39105-brians-anovos-anh-stunt-tk-slow-build/ Armour : Anovos Helmet : Anovos (Stripped rebuilt and hand painted by me) Blaster : Doopydoos E-11 Resin Blaster (Built and modified by me) Height : 5'10" Weight : 175lbs Boots : TK Boots Canvas Belt : TKittell Hand Plates : Trooperbay Latex Electronics : UKSWrath Hovi tip speakers fitted other electronics ongoing (SHA, RomFX) Neck Seal : Anovos Holster : Anovos Full body Photos Front by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Back by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Left Side by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Left Side Arms Up by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Right Side by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Right Arms Up by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Action Shot by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Bucket Off by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Detail Photos Abdominal Details by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Left Side Detail by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Kidney Notch Left by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Right Side Detail by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Kidney Notch Right by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Shoulder Bridge Front by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Shoulder Bridge Back by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Chest/Back Connection by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Interior Strapping Front by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Interior Strapping Rear by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Cod/Butt Attachment Outer by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Cod/Butt Attachment Inner by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Forearm Wrist End by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Thigh Ammo Pack Attachment Inner by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Thigh Ammo Pack Attachment Outer by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Knee Plate Front by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Knee Plate Inner by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Knee Plate Outer by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Accessory Photos TD Front by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr TD Top by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr TD Bottom by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr TD End by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Drop Boxes and Holster Front by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Drop Boxes Back by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Holster Attachment Inner by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Neck Seal by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Flexible Hand Guards by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Helmet Photos Helmet Front by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Helmet Right by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Helmet Back by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Helmet Left by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Hovi Tips by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Helmet Lens Colour by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr S Trim by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Blaster Photos Blaster Right by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Blaster Left by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr D-Ring by brian.mcdavid, on Flickr Thanks for your consideration Brian TK18910

Solomon Odom TK-77797 ANH EIB FISD Name: MacPhisto Garrison Tyranus Armor: Anovos Soft Goods: Anovos Helmet: Anovos Belt: Anovos Blaster: Jedi Robes (getting a DLT-19 from Hyperfirm post haste) Boots: Imperial Boots Height: 6'0" Weight: 180 lbs Thank you!!!

Shin Accuracy Update Measure and mark ankle pill to be cut Cut out large Pill near ankle Using a Dremel or other remove the center section according to movie accuracy. Material will be installed behind the opening at a later date.

Spats Cont... Now that the greeblies are shaped let's cont with the spats. In this section I will glue the buckle female and male snaps. Starting with the female snaps. We first need to make a pocket for the snap and glue to sit in. Something that will also sit relatively flush. I started with some scrap, using a heat gun and a 3/8" round object (Exacto handle end, not the best choice) I softened up a small section then using the handle indented the area. After the plastic has cooled cute the section out, approximately 1" square. Now heat the surrounding edges of your new pocket section, place it over the female snap hole to shape it. It should look like this afterwards. Notice how close the pocket is to the snap. You'll want this relatively snug. Remove the pocket and secure snap. Ready to glue. Using Devcon Plastic welder Fill in pocket and outer edges. Place over snap and clamp. You want a bit of the glue to protrude through snap mounting hole. This will assist the glue in keeping the snap secure. After its dried you can dremel or cut some of the excess back. Remove clamps Now glue the male snaps to the resin buckles. After drying (45min-1hr) check buckle operation, Final note. FYI the greeblies are NOT glued to the rear spat section and yet they are holding the two sections together with ease with the snap tension alone. The greeblies will be glued to the rear section after painting to give the area the look the buckle is separate form the painted spat. Similar to that of a door handle on a car.

Let's be honest for a minute here...Joe Public will not see any differece between these troopers and those from ANH. After trooping over two years as a ROTJ TK I can tell you nobody has ever asked me why I look different to my garrison mates. A Stormtrooper is a Stormtrooper in the eyes of anyone but us super anal nerds.