TDStig

That looks like Jedi Robe and personally speaking, I'd avoid like the plague. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

I think Jim Tripon does the FOTK too. I know he did the Phasma armour for one of our troopers (and it looks amazing) so maybe give him a look up on Facebook. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Easy repair mate. Get a sharp blade and at the end of the crack, score a small line on the inside of the armour. This will help stop the crack spreading. . Get some white cotton (from a t-shirt or something),.and some superglue. Cut the materiel so it fits over the crack. Slread the glue over the area (again, inside tthe armour) and place the materiel over it. The glue will harden the cotton and form a strong bond On the outside yuu can fill the crack with ABS paste (100% pure acetone and ABS trimmings) and sand down when its dried. Avoid using nail varnish remover as its just not strong enough. Your armour WILL crack through time and the above method above is one I've used many a time, especially on troops. Its a handy trick to know for immediate repairs. Hooe that helps mate. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Alright Brad. As my clean, shiny brothers have already stated, your ID will stat the same irrespective of what costume you have. So.if you're TD 12345, and you decided to become Vader, then you'll also be SL 12345. Good choice on becoming a Sandie though. A d yes, speak to your local Garrison and they'll help you with what you need to do. Some Garrisons allow Sandies without a pack, whereas we in the UKG require a pack for clearance. The guys at your local Garrsiom will give you the info pertinent to you. And as has also been mentioned, the guys at the MEPD really kmow their droids from their Jawas. Enjoy the journey and see you in the sand pit, brother. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

It can be an issue sometimes but if you turn the helmet slightly it usually slides right over your specs. Alternatively, I gently squeeze mine at the sides which gives me JUST enough room to get over the frames without knocking them. Also wearing a balaclava under the helmet helps keep the glasses in place. Hope this helps matey. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

As stated by Christopher, the method he shows is a tried and tested one. I've used it a few times to good effect. When using this method make sure the materiel is flat as the superglue will make any edges sharp and rough Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Steve Dredge TK10450 EIB Tony A4 Many tnanks No worries! http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/10450-eib.png

Thanks SO much!! I admit I came VERY close to withdrawing it but I'm glad I didn't. Many thanks to everyone for all your support and advice. Chuffed.to bits!!!!!

I can barely breathe and it's far from comfy...... haha Thanks. Hope it's ok

After a LOT more faffing and adjusting, I think I've FINALLY managed to close the gap and get the plates level. Whist I appreciate these pics aren't perfect and may not be suitable (took many attempts as done solo) but I hope they can be used to clarify the issues I've had with the ab/kidney armour gap. I'll be happy to do more suitable pics if required when there's someone else around to help take the photos. Right side Left side. Many thanks for looking and I await any comments and advice.

I've made some shorter ones that are literally JUST long enough so they should pull it in close. The gap as it stands is just over the required amount so no gap is the way to go rather that faff about with shims etc. Onwards and upwards. Or inwards as the case may be......

Thanks for that. I'll have to try again but if it's not going to happen, then I'll have to rethink the whole procedure. Thanks for your help guys.

OK.... Ab/kidney gap pics..... attempt #1740..... Removed pain from ab snap........ After a but of fettling, adjustment and fine tuning, I think I've managed to get the alignment and gap issues sorted. I adjusted the shoulder straps slightly as the rear needed dropping and the front needed raising. So in effect the whole torso armour was rotated around my body (if that makes sense....) Left hand side view Right hand side view Hope this solves the issue

I can barely breathe with it as it is haha Any tighter and the next pic will be me in a crumpled mass of TK armour. I do have misaligned hips and a slightly curved spine but I can't see that being the cause of the back and front not being level. I think the front needs raising or the back lowering and I think that's all on the position or length of the shoulder straps. Gotta be worth a try, surely.....

Thanks to both. Sorry... have occasional 'slow' moments. Ok so I'll sort the lining up of the rivets a d removal of paint tomorrow when I get in from work. Thanks for your help and advice

Will do..... But I'm not 100% sure what I'm missing....haha.

No worries. I shortened the straps at the side and took the pics as requested (excuse the low level look... its hard to do a selfie and get it all in....) The gaps are as close as I think they're going to get without me removing lower ribs or starving myself... Anyway, here they are...... Left side Right view Close up view I hope these are satisfactory and I await your response and further advice

I DID wonder..... I'll adjust the straps and make them shorter so.it SHOULD close the gap. It'll be easier than putting shims in, which I'll do as a last resort. I'm assuming you'll require a full size side view (clearance style) and a close up with tape measeure? I'll sort that out later. Many thanks.

Thanks for getting back to me on this. I've taken the paint off the snaps on the |posterior plate, but for some reason I didn't paint the head on the ab plate bottom. If there's an issue with the gap between my ab and kidney plate, I'll sort out some pictures with a tape measure in place as soon as I can. Many thanks

Cheers bud. Stupidly nervous for some reason haha.

Forgot to add a few pics so here they are......Hope these help. The strapping system viewed from the inside The ammo pack on the right knee (single capped rivet on both sides) The interior of right knee The canvas belt detail ....and the plastic part The gap between the Ab and kidney plate (left) ...and the right.....

Name: Steve Dredge 501st ID: TK10450 501st Profile: https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=23009 FISD Forum Name: TDStig Garrison: UK Garrison Armour: RWA Helmet: RWA Blaster: Doopydoos resin parts on uPVC pipe. Sight and Hengstler Counter from Tosche Traders Height: 5'6" (167cm) Weight: 211lbs (96kg) Boots: ISD Canvas Belt: Hand Plates: RWA Gloves: ISD Latex hand guards Neck Seal: RWA Holster: ISD Undersuit: Sondeco 2 piece Electronics: Rom FX (voice only) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hey guys. Finally decided to try for EIB status. While my kit is far from Centurion standard, I'm hoping that it'll pass EIB. FRONT RIGHT REAR LEFT ACTION SHOT CLOSE UP SHOTS LID (FRONT) LID (RIGHT) LID (LEFT) NECKSEAL BODY AB DETAIL TD BUTT PLATE STUDS GLOVES WITH LATEX HANDGUARDS BOOTS - SCREEN ACCURATE BLACK BOOTS PAINTED WHITE BELT AMMO PACK DETAIL BELT AND HOLSTER E-11 BLASTER Thanks in advance for any advice and suggestioms to get me up to the required standard.

Please can you enable me for 501st access? Much obliged. **EDITED AS LINK WAS IN CORRECT** https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=23009

Was introduced to Ross just over a year ago by a long term member of the UKG. From the off, communication was excellent and I was kept informed of delivery times etc and even after receiving the kit, Ross was always just a message away for any assistance. The kit itself (1.5mm ABS) is brilliant and the details are sharp. It's easy to work with, even for a novice, with the trim lines clearly marked in the moulding. Ross is extremely knowledgeable and was always happy to offer tips or advice as whenever needed. I ordered the neck seal and canvas for the belt from Ross too. Again, no complaints whatsoever on that score either. As for wearing the kit on troops.... well.... it certainly stands up to some punishment. Having been unlucky enough to take a tumble and hitting the ground like a sack of spuds, the kit took zero damage and is still intact. This surprised those that saw the tumble. A sure sign on good quality workmanship on the makers part. Would seriously recommend getting a kit, or anything else, from Ross. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk