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justjoseph's ROTJ 3D E-11 build


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I've had some extra time on my hands, so I decided to build this to round out my OT trilogy E-11 collection.  Since finding an MGC blaster** is like locating the Holy grail, I found the closest 3D print I could.  I'm not going to list the designer of the file as unfortunately there are many things that are not as accurate as I would like since it's the "Battlefront" version.  I'm sure it would be fine for approval at all levels when built as-is, but as usual I have to push the envelope.

Will it be 100% accurate?  Not really, but since it will be used for display only I am hoping to get as close as I can.  I have my work cut out for me, but I am looking forward to the challenge!  Any comments/suggestions are welcome.  :D


** This version is based on the Sterling Mark V Canadian C1 type as opposed to the British L2A3, so there are quite a few differences.  


Know in advance that this will be crazy pic-heavy, and since I have to alter so many parts I will do them in separate posts and add after completion I will add links to each one at the bottom of this post.  This way it will be easier to skip to the item when needed.


So, on with the show:



1.  JB PlasticWeld-  (A must have.  Can be drilled/sanded/painted).

2.  Bondo Glazing & Spot putty-  Awesome stuff.

3.  Rustoleum Primer/Filler (sandable)

4.  Rotary tool (Dremel type)

5.  Sanding drums

6.  Needle files

7.  Sandpaper (80 to 400 grit)

8.  Scrap ABS pieces

         1                        2                     3                   4                             5                                            6

tLcA95L.png?4  FLFIi0L.png?1  7DYOh8W.png?1  7oVcEtf.jpg?1  GCF8ZFn.jpg?1  tltBar5.jpg?1


                                                         Here is the kit in it's raw form printed in PETG.  I missed a few of the small items, but the majority can be seen.


             CInPOgP.jpg?2  L2O3Yo8.jpg?2


                                                                                                                     Two BIG shout-outs to:


Caleb @ticopowell for not only printing this kit for me, but helping me with the designs.

Germain @The5thHorseman for the precise greeblie file.


                                                                                                                  You guys are AWESOME:salute: 

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                                                                                                                             Ejection port opening


This was integrated into the print (2).  I used the Dremel to remove it and sanded down the edges (3).  The connector piece (4) fit perfectly inside, but I had to sand down a section (#4-in yellow) so that I could add the "front" of the bolt (5) made from an ABS scrap, but I made that part too long.  It's glued now so no changing it.  :(  I used a galvanized nail with the end rounded off and the top removed for the bottom. 


                Reference                                                                2                                                             3                                         4                                    5    

z6FFXMv.jpg?1     zzYa3mB.jpg?2   IOUAqaT.jpg   Trl3G9f.png?1  BMDOsgE.png?1

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                                                                                                                                             Main body


The kit came with inside tubes to join the 3 pieces.  Since the majority of then inserts will not be visible, I only sanded/filled/sanded the area that will be seen.

WdgYSeL.jpg?2   zMU8czK.jpg

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                                                                                                                                      Too long!


After joining the 3 pieces of the shroud, I noticed that it was actually about 5/8ths of an inch (3 cm) too long and the flash guard sat too far forward (2).  After sanding down the outside and a few coats of primer/filler I cut it down (3).  Holes were filled with the JB weld epoxy/sanded smooth and I had to make a new flash guard out of ABS (4).  (5) shows the original position.


                  Reference                                            2                                             3                                                4                                                     5

BqrTBm9.jpg  f0nr5eO.png?1     MwR4Z9K.jpg?1   Q7btSUO.png?1   pYJms3L.jpg

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                                                                                                                                    Folding stock mount


As seen in the reference images, the stock mount is completely different than the L2A3 type.  Starting with the existing mount (3), I built it up with the JB weld until I got it in the general shape I wanted (4).  After sanding and to get the right shape, I removed the bottom (5) and added ABS pieces to the sides and bottom (6).


                           References                                                3                                           4                                   5                                      6                               End result

kjX6vdd.png?1  8sf1B9w.png?1      W97FBy4.jpg?2  VzwJkfU.png?1  w7AdXP8.png?1   XOgRLBH.jpg?2   EMJtFX6.png?1

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                                                                                                                     End cap / clip


The end cap clip on the C1 version is completely different than the L2A3 (as is the end cap itself).  The clip on the 3D print (2) was not correct and integrated on the print, so I used the Dremel to remove it and ended up making one from scrap ABS (3).  The bottom of the cap/D-ring mount (4) needed a small arc cut out (easy) and I added a rivet.

Yes, I know I made the clip a bit too long and the arc a bit too deep.  (I hope this won't affect me at Centurion level if I build a set of ROTJ armor). :D



                    Reference                                                2                                                                      3                                             4                                                      5

aH5Nv0o.jpg?1   OoeMoB9.jpg?2    h5SaHs4.jpg?1  WsfWnl1.jpg?2  ZEo7Xwm.jpg?2

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This was fairly easy.  Unlike the L2A3, the C1 version has tabs on the bottoms of each side, so some scrap ABS and a little filler took care of that.  The sides appear to have socket-head cap screws in the centers, but they do not (at least as far as I can tell) go all the way through the sight (3).  I cut down two (4) and just CA glued them into the holes.  Done deal.


         Reference                                   2                                                3                                                  4                                       Finished   

eCmMmWX.jpg     dIFPCah.jpg?2     bNV3Z7g.jpg    gdtj3vB.png?1   NDAhJ7X.jpg?1


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Another difference is the magazine well.  The rear had the hole to mount the post that holds the grub screw and the raised triangle (3) on the side like ANH (2).  After grinding down the triangle and filling the holes with JB weld (and sanding) it looks a lot closer.


                 Reference                             2                                            3                                          Finished

xb1OAw3.png?1    Q21dRHX.jpg?1   yqppLte.jpg?1   azd0x51.jpg?1

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                                                                                                                                        Trigger area/Grip


As seen in the first reference photo below (L2A3- ANH), the area under the selector switch has 2 levels, and the C1 version (second/third photos) is one solid piece.  The last photo shows how this one looked at the start. 


Toa8WYQ.png?1          vX4pxnz.jpg?1  A8nToAP.jpg?3                    xoFVBof.jpg?1


To be honest, I was not going to touch this area... I mean, who the heck will notice something that trivial? **  And, the selector switch was printed onto that area.  Ugh.  But, as I went along (and even painted it) it bugged me to no end.  So, I thought "In for a penny, in for a pound" and went to work.


** I would. :blink:


Using a pointed Dremel attachment (2) I carefully drilled out the selector switch (3).  The area was leveled out with the JB weld epoxy and sanded down (4).  I wanted to get it a bit smoother so I used the Bondo glazing (5).  Again, another sanding.  I kept the selector switch, but had to add some of the epoxy to build up the bottom before filing/sanding it down (6).  I drilled a hole in the switch and inserted a small nail, then drilled a hole in the area below it before attaching it back on.  I still need a few coats of paint, but until then it looks passable (7).


        2                             3                                      4                                             5                                              6                                                7

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On the right left hand side of the grip there is a hole to mount it to the base.  In the L2A3 version this looks to be either a hex nut or a screw (1 & 2) depending on which reference you are looking at.  BUT, the C1 has something different (3 & 4)).  I used some black Sugru epoxy and a small ball bearing to get a similar effect.  Again, a small detail but worth it IMO.


         1                     2                                 3                                4                        End result

QtMqa9x.jpg?2  mbxJXcK.jpg?2        l6liONa.jpg?1  6SYO1Ds.jpg?1      uGKcTUn.jpg?2

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                                                                                                                        The Greeblies


First up is the one that is attached to the barrel to the rear of the magazine well.  It is listed as a "Nakata Browning M 1935..replica firing block" (1).  However, the one shown here (1) does not have all the characteristics of the screen used images,  There are 2 small curves in the corners of the top opening and 2 holes in the front (2 & 3). 

The one I received with the kit was way too long and lacked many details, so ....


                                         1                                                                                 2                                                                       3

 DqM19DB.png?1   M8AoW62.png   4t9E96j.png?1


since these haven't been made in many years, I turned to the person who has imo the most accurate designs anywhere- Germain @The5thHorseman  .  His designs are legendary and he hooked me up with the file of what has to be the best representation you can get, down to the tiniest detail.  (THANKS)!  I had this printed, did some filling/sanding and of course I made a mold and cast it in resin.


               djFQWYj.jpg eCRl5BY.jpg?1  xsKhxGI.jpg?1 


Next up, the hammers and top greeb.

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These caused me the most trouble.  The ones that came with the kit were the right size, but the design was off (top photo).  So, time to start from scratch.  After 3 tries I finally got it as close as I could (middle photo) to the reference image (bottom photo).  Perfect?  Nope.  Close?  I think so.  I made a mold and cast them in resin so they would match.



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6 hours ago, Sly11 said:

Loving this detailed build Joseph, you are a master at your craft.

Thanks!  I'm no Vern, lol.. this has been a challenging (but fun) build so far and I've learned a lot about this under-rated weapon.  The only part I'm concerned about is the U channels for the shroud when I get to that point.


                                                                                                                 BUT....   TGZDRPE.png?1  :D

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                                                                                                                              Front/Top greeb


This was another part where I was not too happy with the design as it came (2).  It did have the round bit on the right side with the 5 holes, but it was a bit too short, had the small bar in the center and lacked the small arc on the bottom of the front, so I ended up making one from scratch (3).

Side note:  This is the first SW weapon I have ever seen where they used phillips-head screws (1).


                                                                                                                                                     1                                                     2                                                                    3

wGNu6P8.png?1  UxFAyGQ.jpg?1  YY3Kgyn.png?1  9WIVHdR.jpg?1        gVreQLi.png?1

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OK, back to it.  Just when I thought I'd nailed the scope, in studying the reference images closer I noticed that the small brass grommet I had used on the front end was too small (photo 1).  Even though I made the knurled screw insert (photo 3) I just wasn't happy with the look.  I searched everywhere for a more accurate one but to no avail.  I also was not over the moon with the overall shape of the rear part, but was not up to sculpting a new one. 


I ordered the mounting bracket on ebay:  8ozkwwh.png?1


                                       I know I'm getting WAY too finicky, and that many of these details will never be noticed, but that's just in my nature so thanks for bearing with me.


                                                                                                                                           Reference images

0vFGYaz.png?1  u4sWxyW.jpg?2  oLGcRAV.png?1  OBjoKCj.jpg?1  187110m.jpg?1


Note:  In the reference images (first 2 pics above) a few of the front sections were bent up, but not all of them.. I wonder if this was because they got caught up on the holster.  I also noticed that some of the front sections were not at the bottom but on the side (last pic above).  I'm sure either would be fine, but I'm going with the bottom.


After some serious consideration, I decided to bite the bullet and ordered an accurate replica aluminum Stembridge scope.  A bit pricey but well worth it imo.  


                                                      1                                                                          2                                                    3

7gmhr5W.png?1  2rILLqL.jpg?2    NEzXHue.jpg?1  


You will need to cut out a section of the scope rail for the mounting hardware.  Easy to do with a Dremel, but leave something (a small lip) for the mount to grab onto.

V7047fa.png?1      owCGjAb.jpg?1  7YHo8dj.jpg?1



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                                                                                                                                    Folding Stock


The folding stock  for the ROTJ version was (for the most part) the same as the L2A3.  However, 2 differences I noticed were that there is a rivet in the section that folds out (left side only).  I have no idea why it's there, but it will lock the stock in place when present, so that may be why they did it.  There is also a hole toward the rear.  I have drilled these out (below) and will add the rivet in the front, and since the rear hole seems to have a backing of some sort I will probably just glue a tiny ABS scrap behind it before re-painting.




                                                                                                                                       Reference images

        MuARBp1.png?1   YO6PDLm.jpg?1   MY8scFD.jpg?1


One more tiny detail is that unlike the L2A3 type, an E-clip is present behind the bolt on the stock hinge (both sides).  Looks like a trip to the hardware store!


                                             Reference images                                                               E-clip

KvJzxu1.png?1  FaYXr7U.jpg?1  aBeljJ3.jpg?1    FyPo7if.png?1

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  • 4 months later...

UPDATE:  Now that I am settled in to my new home, I dug this project out so that I can finish it up this weekend.  I had quite a bit of trouble sourcing the U-channels, but finally found a set online (details to follow).


Although not inexpensive, they are crazy accurate and arrived pre-cut to the correct lengths with the corners rounded.  Made of 22 gauge aluminum they are incredibly sturdy.  As I mentioned, this will be a display piece but I am sure they would hold up even under rigorous trooping.  A quick sand with 220 grit paper to help paint adhesion, a thorough cleaning and 3 coats of paint later they are DONE!


                         nHbPhed.jpg    WN8Y0W5.jpg?1    JRw8ZnE.jpg?2


Next up:  Attaching the folding stock, front D ring, U channels and weathering.

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Good to see you getting back onto this project Joseph, it's going to be a very nice display piece for sure.

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Again, please keep in mind that this 3D E-11 kit was apparently designed from the "Battlefront" videogame version so there are some significant differences.  Most I could overcome, but a big one was the holes in the shroud.  They simply do not correspond to the screen used (MGC) ones.  I got as close as I could, so bear that in mind.


Once I got ready to mount the U channels I found that my rivet gun was too wide to fit down into the channels themselves (pic 1).  After a few choice curse words muttered under my breath I knew had to figure out how to attach them.  I briefly considered screws, but it just wouldn't be the same.

SO, I separated the rivets (14 of them), separated the mandrels (center parts), cut down the length and epoxied them back into the rivet pins as seen in the second 2 pics below.


I should have mentioned before that when building the main body that I installed a thin metal tube inside the shroud to give the appearance of an actual barrel.  Oops.


urPHTG9.jpg   9O9TTKU.jpg   8jBqvgt.jpg?1


My plan ended up as seen below (pic 1).  Drill out the holes on the channels and shroud/barrel (just as one normally would) but I epoxied each modified rivet in.  I was afraid this may make it sort of fragile, but after the epoxy set they are actually very sturdy.  WHEW!


HINT:  Drill all holes in the channels and shroud BEFORE attaching them.


The holes for the rivets were integrated into the print, but they did not line up correctly (mainly due to the barrel mods) so I drilled new ones.  Hint:  Make sure the holes for the rivets are between the holes in the shroud (pic 2).


qAWAduf.jpg?1      EoAwfC8.png?1


The channel that sits on the left side will have to have the bottom bent down on the front to accommodate the front "D" ring.

HINT:  Attach the D-ring/mount AFTER attaching the channels.


The stock that came with the kit was too long after cutting down the length of the of the shroud earlier , and to add some "heft" I used a real vintage Sterling folding stock for this build, which differs slightly from the original- especially in the area seen with the red arrow (first pic).  Not too noticeable, but I hope it doesn't keep me up at night thinking about it.**  I did add the rivet on the side, which as I mentioned before will prevent the stock from extending.


**It will. :laugh1:


Cr5ENsQ.jpg      BhihAXx.jpg


After touching up the paint and letting that dry overnight, I added some light weathering.                                                         Had these made for all my display pieces.

 UPEeWPg.jpg?3     C6K512g.jpg?2


And that's it.  Finished, and finally added to my "wall-o'-weapons".  To anyone who has followed this, thanks for looking!




U-Channels-  After spending more time that I care to admit to searching for these, I finally found a seller (George) on the RPF.  Once he got them made shipping was fast and I honestly could not be more pleased with the quality.  A little pricey, but well worth every cent in my opinion.  Link to his sales thread on the RPF here.


UPDATE:  I did not realize that the seller was actually Caleb @TKCaleb who has been a member here since 2008.  SO- it looks like you can contact him here as well! 




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