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Doggydoc’s AP ANH stunt build


Doggydoc
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Well, I ordered my kit from Mark at Authentic Props on the weekend and have started my list of other items and tools that I need to have for the build. Hoping to have everything ready to go when the Big Brown Box arrives. 
Thank you to everyone for the great posts and tips on armor building. 
 

@kamikaze your helmet interior build is beyond amazing and I am going to try and do mine in a similar way. 
 

Just one question at this point about amplifiers.  I have looked at the Tramp, Aker and icomm systems. With the Tramp and Aker, I assume volume would be great for any trooping location.  With the icomm system using the Hovi - mix tip speakers with everything in the helmet, how does the volume come across?  Is it loud enough for areas that are a bit noisy?

 

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Great news looking forward to seeing your BBB photos.

 

Can't help with the hovi speaker advice, I use and Icomm and aker amp, I find that perfectly fine for all events. 

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22 hours ago, Doggydoc said:

Is it loud enough for areas that are a bit noisy?

 

 

Hi Gerald and glad to read you're closer to get your Kit. 

 

About the sound system using the hovi tips , in my case,  they work better  for closed or not noisy spaces. 

 

:salute:

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Thanks for the information on the speakers. 
I have started ordering all of my soft parts but am having some trouble with the boots. My issue is that I am a size 13 E width foot. The imperial boots only go up to size 13, so I can’t order up a size as recommended. I am checking if they can custom order a size 14 but if they can’t, has anyone else with a foot like mine had success with boots?  If so, where can I find them?

 

Thanks. 

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I did some pre BBB prep shopping today. got a few things from trooper bay,  ordered the helmet voice system from Ukswrath , got the innards for my bucket, compression suit, going to the hardware store and fabric store tomorrow.  
I have decided that I am going to try and make my own neck covering to keep me busy until BBB day. LOL. 
Now I just need to figure out the boots for my oversized feet and the blaster.

 

Any advice on sourcing larger boots would be appreciated.

With respect to the blaster,  I have been looking for an excuse to buy a 3D printer. How hard are the to print and build yourself?  Am I being foolish and should just buy a pre made resin one?

 

 

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Excellent, prepare as much as you can so there's no disapointment when you start to build, only fear pf were to start ;) 

 

Boots, either Imperial Boots or Crowprops (who will make to size)

 

As to printing well depends what make of printer, what size, what price, then there is the sanding, filling, sanding, filling, sanding oh and did I mention sanding :laugh1:and painting, there is a bit involved but it's achievable, really it's practice in all areas and you learn a lot on the journey, take a look at these threads

 

 

Some printing and sanding work in this thread

 

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Definitely lots of research on the printer, there are a large number of FB groups for specific printer support and info, lots of mods and updates as well as files, it's a never ending learning hobby but you will find the communities are willing to help if you get into trouble. I started small with a 210 x 210 bed, you have to split your prints, then glue and fill so a bit more work than a larger bed printer, comes down to price, I recently purchased a 400 x 400 bed Anycubic Chiron as it was pretty cheap but it did need some extra setup, some mods and learning.

 

Research, research, research just like finding armor ;)

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If you are going to print an E-11, I highly recommend this one (shameless plug):


Sterling SMG MK4 (L2A3)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4003566

 

and

 

E-11 Accessories for Sterling 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3989097

 

There are lots of good entry level printers. Don’t spend too much unless you are absolutely sure you will continue in the hobby. Get something simple, of reasonable quality, and that has replacement parts readily available.

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@trooper96  no need to worry about the shameless plug. It was your post that made me want to print it.  I have already bookmarked those pages on thingverse. LOL.

 

one question,  how long is the longest piece that needs to print ( I assume it is the barrel parts). Just considering different options for print bed size. 
 

 

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5 minutes ago, Doggydoc said:

@trooper96  no need to worry about the shameless plug. It was your post that made me want to print it.  I have already bookmarked those pages on thingverse. LOL.

 

one question,  how long is the longest piece that needs to print ( I assume it is the barrel parts). Just considering different options for print bed size. 
 

 

Most of the long parts are broken down into sections for smaller printers.

Barrel measures 7.80" [196mm] (I print horizontally)

Folding stock rod measures 7.42" [188.44mm] (I print vertically)

The longest part is the scope rail at 9.87" [250.69mm] (I print horizontally on my CR-10S, but I suppose it could be printed vertically)

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I decided to make my neck seal today while I wait for my BBB from Authentic Props. 
I figured, that since I enjoy costuming, I would give it a go.  I think it turned out pretty good. I am going to post a guide on how I made it in case someone else wants to try and make their own.  
 

QnEcPYs.jpg
lpWyGF7.jpg

ks5Tari.jpg
 

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  • 3 weeks later...

pTCmpap.jpg
 

My boots arrived today from Crowprops. Very impressed with them. I struggle having big wide feet and these are very comfortable. I now have everything ready just waiting for my BBB from AP to get the build started. I am planning on starting to 3D print the blaster over the holidays. Just need to figure out the printer a bit. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

So while I am waiting for my BBB to arrive, I decided to jump into the 3D printing world and take my new printer for a spin and start the E-11 blaster project. After about a week of printing, I have 3/4 of the parts printed.  Yesterday I spent most of the day sanding and started the basic assembly. The photos are post Bondo and pre Bondo sanding. Tonight I will be smoothing with the XTC 3d print coating. This is such a satisfying hobby. I must admit there were a few pew pew moments last night chasing the pets around the house.  
 

s0cGOXx.jpg?2

3kGORjB.jpg?2

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That weapon is looking fantastic, Gerald!  I am thinking you read through my post here, but I would not suggest using the XTC epoxy on the shroud.  The reason is that it is not very viscous and it will drip though the holes into the barrel inside and make a mess.  After a thorough sanding with 200 grit, in addition to the Bondo glazing I just applied 2 coats of the primer/filler.  Bada-bing, bada-boom.  Ready for paint, but don't forget to cover the area where the T-tracks will be with tape first. ;)

 

4UCek7n.jpg?1         muWPanI.jpg

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Well, had my first big set back.  I messed up the ratio on the XTC 3D coating when I tried to go by weight and my scale was not precise enough. After 4 days it was still very sticky, so I tried to sand it down but no luck.  The blaster is a write off.  Not too upset, just a learning experience. I have syringes to measure more accurately next time by volume instead of weight. Reprinting the barrel now, should be able to catch back up in a few days.  
 

one piece of advice, if anyone can help. How do you get rid of the print lines on areas where there is fine detail like the writing on the mag holder?

 

 

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11 minutes ago, Doggydoc said:

Well, had my first big set back.  I messed up the ratio on the XTC 3D coating when I tried to go by weight and my scale was not precise enough. After 4 days it was still very sticky, so I tried to sand it down but no luck.  The blaster is a write off.  Not too upset, just a learning experience. I have syringes to measure more accurately next time by volume instead of weight. Reprinting the barrel now, should be able to catch back up in a few days.  
 

one piece of advice, if anyone can help. How do you get rid of the print lines on areas where there is fine detail like the writing on the mag holder?

Terrible news, could you perhaps try paint stripper/remover?

 

Once I've given everything a light sand I go over with 3 thick coats of spray putty, that tends to fill the lines nicely, also apply a very light mist of black, then once fully dry wet sand, the black is used to show any spots not filled after you sand, for any lines still remaining I use glaze putty (blade putty). From reading others posts the spray putty we use here is similar to primer/filler in other parts of the world.

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For the fine details, you need to go to the finest print setting you can. Also slow the speed down.

many printers come with some test files and some of these have optimum settings for the best result. You can use those print settings and add them to the file you are using which will make a big difference.

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11 hours ago, Doggydoc said:

one piece of advice, if anyone can help. How do you get rid of the print lines on areas where there is fine detail like the writing on the mag holder?

 

Ouch.  So sorry to hear about your loss!  Getting that ratio exact is not easy, but with the syringes you should be fine.  Since I know zip about 3D printing, following Andrews and Glen's advice is a great idea.  For some hard to reach areas I used the Bondo glazing and then sanded with 3M silicone sandpaper wrapped around the flattened end of a craft (popsicle) stick.  This sandpaper truly is a miracle.  It is insanely flexible so you can bend it into any shape, it will not tear, and seems to forever.  It's also washable!  (I did an entire TK and an E-11 build with one 5 x 7 sheet and it's still going strong)!  They don't make it anymore, but I can send you enough of the 150 and 220 grit to get you through this build (no charge), just PM me.

 

mcOBKlu.jpg?1

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