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Eric's mostly 3d Printed HWT Pack Build

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[EDIT 6-17-20: Please do read this entire thread but the packs are done and the files are HERE: 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4462006 ]


Hey all!  I'm an approved ANH Stunt TK with aspirations to become a HWT.  I started my pack project about two years ago but got derailed by life.  I'm building two packs, one for me and one for a friend currently building a TK.  The first pack is almost done and has used my initial 3d printed parts to test it, and after building that I have gone back and modified my files.  I'm going to post screen captures first to see if there are any issues or CRL conflicts before I start printing them to make the second pack.  After everything is approved and assembled, I will be releasing the files to my Thingiverse for any future HWT that want to use my parts to build their pack vs. scratch building everything.  


I used ukswrath's build, the published approximate dimensions needed for each component, and screen grabs from the game to base my parts on.  The base of the pack is still an oil can, the radio base is still a "memories" box, the upper center tube is a wipes container, and the side tube is PVC. 




UK's Build: 

Game Screen Grabs: 

Pack Specs: 



First, here is my "rough draft" pack.  It is currently only lacking 1" webbing straps, weathering, and the chest MP40 pack before I consider it complete.  Bear in mind the rendered parts are the current revision, mostly just added some radii and screw holes for the corner screws.  





Upper Left Button Box.  I've made each sub component that is painted a different color a separate part for ease of assembly.  The frame the buttons fit into actually sits in a pocket in the button base so that everything will easily line up straight.  The parts will just be glued together unless there is any reason to add holes for screws? The buttons are based on the same dimensions as the rubber bumpers used in UKWrath's build as they seem popular.  The bumpers could be used in lieu of the printed buttons, but its way cheaper to just print them IMO. 




Top Middle Wipe Tube cover.  I'm still using the standard plastic dollar store wipe tube.  I could just print a tube with a flat back but honestly for $1 its not worth it, although with the covid pandemic wipes have all but vanished.  I may go ahead and make a file just to have it available though. I've seen some people just use black electrical tape to make the cover, others use cardboard, others use sheet plastic.  This 3d printed part just makes it look more "real" IMO.



Upper right flap vent box.  I really thought this would be tough to draw but it turned out to be simple.  The vent section prints as a separate part that fits into a pocket in the base.  No more cutting of strips and trying to glue them together perfectly as this prints and looks great.  The look is more akin to the UKWrath build than the game as the vents go all the way to the bottom of the part.  The CRL also shows the vent flaps going lower.  I can mimic this if people think matching the game is better than matching what most people seem to build?  






Lower left radio.  I have made two files for the faceplate as it is larger than what my printer can fit.  The top section is the "screen" and the lower section is for the knobs.  I am still attaching this to the cut-down heavy cardboard "Memories" box as my printer can't make something that large for less than what the box costs.  I have also made a file for the knobs with holes to screw into the plastic faceplate.  They're roughly the same size as the plastic caps from the oil can base so either could be used but with holes perfectly centered on the printed part I'll just let the machine make them.  






Center right is the angled box with tombstone shaped vents.  Per the game, this box is angled although most builds have it as a flat box due to limitations of scratch-building nice parts.  Again, the faceplate is a separate part for painting and assembles with glue.  There is a neat trick that if I print the box upside down, the face that points outwards will have some drooping plastic bridges that look like vent media underneath the faceplate (see the pic of my test pack).  I've removed the corner screws from the original part and added those screws to the outside of the base instead.  




Lower right Drop Siphon.  Again, the upper black section and the lower tapered grey section are printed in two parts.  I have left a lug on the tapered section and a hole on the upper section so that they will easily line up for assembly after painting.  Also, I needed this to print in two parts so that they would fit onto my printer.  The upper section has the cap integrated into the design with the same rough size and shape as a juice lid used on many builds.  The upper black section also has a flat base on the back to allow for simpler mounting to the oil can base.  The grey tapered section has 8 1/8" holes evenly spaced around it for placement of real rivets.  I could just integrate 3d printed rivet look-alikes but honestly I like the look of real hardware on the 3d prints to give it a bit more realism.  






And lastly are parts for the 24" PVC tube mounted on the right side of the pack.  Instead of buying a vacuum formed TK shoulder strap or PVC caps I have just made files to print look-alikes.  The tube stripe prints with the same diameter bend as the OD of the pipe so no need to heat it up with a heat gun and crinkle it to death.  The caps could be sourced and cut down from a hardware store, but if I can print perfect parts that are ready to go right off the printer I'd rather just make the file.    






The biggest concern I have for making it approvable are my "clamps" that attach the pipe to the side of the pack.  They make the tube stick out from the body of the pack a hair, but I don't think its enough to hurt.  I know some people just screw them on or use toggle screws but I wanted something that looked a little more military and polished.  The clamp first attaches to the side of the oil can with 1/4"-20 screws and then the PVC pipe is attached to the clamp via screws.  I think it looks super neat and it is very, very solidly mounted so its worth the slight deviation from the norm.








So.... please give me any input or criticism to make these parts more accurate, buildable, etc.  I'd like to make any modifications to my files before I print up a second batch for another pack and before I release them to the wild on Thingiverse.  I can also drop the files on FISD just have a backup source if I can upload STLs.  

Edited by Eric Ostendorf
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6 minutes ago, Dragon_a said:

I need to scale my boxes too for my slightly smaller oil pan (and my slightly smaller body) so 3d printing is a great solution.  I'd love to try these out.

Scaling may affect how tightly the parts fit together but just reprinting the parts that get inserted into the pockets a percent smaller would probably work fine.  Otherwise, belt sander to the rescue! 

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I made a few revisions per these screen grabs:






1.  Flap filter box.  Per the game, the box is shorter and the base has an upside-down U-shape where the vents fit into.  I have made a new file to reflect this.  It is not what is shown in the current CRL (its closer to the ukswrath construction of the flaps in the center of the box) but the CRL also says to make it as close to screen captures as possible... so thats what I'm going with unless its going to cause problems with approval.



2. Tombstone FIlter Box.  I have revised the angle to be a little sharper and I have moved the faceplate down further per the game.  Again, I'm basing my parts on the screen captures more than the CRL, but per the CRL itself making it as close to the game is the goal.  




3. Button box.  The screen grabs show the button box to be about the same length of the wipe tube.  The thread with the specs show that this part can be up to 200mm so I maxed it out at that dimension, which is about the same height as the wipe tubes that I'm using.  The button plate isn't exactly centered in the middle either so I have made mine the same.




One other concern I have is the screw/rivet holes in the corner of each part.  I can't really see these on the screen grabs.  I think most of the pack builds I see use screws to attach a face plate to the plastic bins used for each component and are therefore necessary for construction.  As an added bonus I think they add a little more depth and detail to the pack.  In the spirit of matching other HWT I'm leaving my pre-cut holes in my files for screws/rivets to be added unless this should be omitted for accuracy?  

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Your new revisions look great. The clips for tube are definitely different. But look cool. Just paint the screw heads before going into battle:D Only thing I noticed is your tube strap model has 7 ridges. The game model and I believe CRL has 5.


Looking foward to seeing you finish this up. More HWT's the better:duim:

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27 minutes ago, magni said:

Only thing I noticed is your tube strap model has 7 ridges. The game model and I believe CRL has 5.

Dang, how did I miss that? Easy enough to fix at least.  Thanks!


EDIT:  You're right that the game model shows 5 but the CRL pack shows 7.  Weird!  I'm going to go ahead and change it to 5 in the name of accuracy.  The tube stripe on my existing pack is 7... but its superglued on so I think I'm just going to live with it on that pack unless its an approval issue. 

Also, I will indeed be painting all the exposed screw heads black during the weathering phase before submitting.  The shiny bits would definitely stick out too much otherwise!

Edited by Eric Ostendorf
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I got my nylon straps in the mail to make the shoulder straps.  I also noticed I forgot to cover the hole on the top of the oil can from where I cut the drain spout off of.  I just whipped up a simple plate that will just screw or rivet over the hole.  Should look spacey enough. 




Looks pretty good IMO.  I did a sloppy job hacking the oil spout off so this covers it nicely.  The shine and screw heads will get painted/weathered when I get to that phase, of course.



Edited by Eric Ostendorf
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I have the pack pretty much assembled!  I have a troop here in a few hours so I'm going to wear it to try it out.  If the pack isn't comfy due to strap placement or whatever, I'll be able to ditch it nearby without any issues.


First I bought some nylon straps: 



I then used a regular backpack strap to get a rough idea of how long I needed it and where to put the buckle.  After cutting and melting/sealing the ends, I put super glue on about 1" of the strap and folded it over and clamped it.  I then used an old soldering iron to burn a hole in the strap for a 1/4"-20 bolt.  The straps were then attached to the tank with washers and nylock nuts.  I used the mounting position of the straps from a couple other builds but I think the top strap needs to go up and inwards a hair but we will see after I do some trooping.  Easy enough to change in any case.








I then tried it on. Granted its without armor so I'm not sure how its going to actually sit.  




After deeming it "good enough" I took a black paint pen and covered up some of the exposed unpainted screws.  It needs more touchup and weathering, but for the purpose of having a complete pack to take on a test troop I'm super happy with how its looking.




...keep in mind that this is my "rough draft" pack that I'm planning on giving to a friend.  My revised parts, strap locations, improved assembly methods, etc. will all go into a second, more refined pack that I plan on keeping.  I'll do a build on it as well and use those photos on my Thingiverse after I release the files.  I have other projects and work and real life to take care of, but I suspect files will be available very soon for anyone else wanting to use my parts!  :D 



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What a great looking pack. Those files will be very helpful when I finally get mine going. I've sourced a lot of the parts, but I just don't like what I've been able to put together.

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Thank you everyone for the compliments so far!  Drawing this in CAD with the aid of build threads and specs from here on FISD and 3D printing most of the parts has really helped me make this a sharp looking pack!  I couldn't do it without all the resources available!  


My local garrison did a social distancing outdoor drive through con a few days ago so I got to try out my pack!  Overall everyone liked it and it mostly worked well.  I need to move the straps in and up just a hair and tighten them some so the pack rides higher on my back.  The buckles are placed too high and they rubbed my rib cage/armpits so hopefully just moving them and tightening them will do, if not I'll make new straps with the buckles moved further down.  

I think all the pack needs otherwise is the addition of the third MP40 ammo pack and weathering.  I'm super happy with it and will start printing parts for Pack #2.  Once I'm happy with all the parts and its assembled, I'll release all the files :D  







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This is fantastic! Goodness I spent so much time researching components for my build, but I definitely want to implement some of your designs! Particularly the vents, radio box plate, tube mount, and possibly the top portion of the siphon. I can't wait to see the final version two STLs! Keep up the great work!

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34 minutes ago, MaskedVengeance said:

...Goodness I spent so much time researching components for my build, but I definitely want to implement some of your designs!

:laugh1: That's exactly what happened to me...whereby here in the Formum there are already really very good and useful tips - but just trying this out and looking for different possibilities, that's what we enjoy, right? ;)

Anyway, for a new pack I'ld also like to use some ingenious 3D parts from Eric. :jc_doublethumbup:

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Thanks for the feedback!

I've been busy with other things the last few days but I'm almost ready to start printing my second batch of parts.  I figure a week or two of printing, tweaking my files if they need it, and then they'll be released.  :D 


I have slightly changed the lower radio box panel to match the game a little closer.  The square on the lower left corner is now raised with holes in it for rivets or screws.  I'm saving the original files that more closely match the CRL images for anyone that may have issues getting it past their GMLs or for personal preference. The radio is the least game accurate part I have so I may come back and revisit it later but I'm really not that worried about the discrepancies thus far. 




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And one more part - the full wipe tube as a 3d printed part.  It is 200mm tall to match the height of the button box and modeled to match the game with the full height faceplate but also has four holes for screws/rivets like on the CRL.  I know finding cleaning wipes can be very difficult with the coronavirus going around so I went ahead and made a file for anyone that can't find an off-the-shelf tube to use.  Or if people just want to print one for style points or because they don't want to buy one or whatever. 


It is in three parts for ease of painting: body, lid, and faceplate.  The back of the tube has a flat section to make screwing it onto the pack straight much, much easier (similar to what I did on the upper section of the drop siphon).



Edited by Eric Ostendorf
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Great thinking with modeling that wipes container! I got lucky and already had my items sourced and purchased, but I may still consider printing yours since it has the flat back.

I’ll also definitely be interested in trying both versions of the radio box plate, and see what my GML has to say.

Finally, would you consider making only the button box plate, without the buttons themselves? I’m kinda interested in trying a combo of using the Snapit box, plus your plate (if ever made), and then the adhesive buttons.

Amazing work, as I’ve already said before!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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The round back on the wipes container is a little tricky.  The best way is to pre drill holes and put just the very pointy tips of screws through to jab into the wipes container, and then screw it all the way down.  Only after the wipes container is on the oil can, then is the time to put on the face plate.  Its hard to get the wipe bottle on the can straight after the cover plate is screwed on... whoops.

The button plate is actually a separate part.  I made it that way so that it would be easy to paint because I hate masking parts when I can just let the printer spend an extra couple hours to churn out individual parts.  The buttons sit in little square cutouts in the plate.  My buttons were modeled after the size and shape of the adhesive buttons so they will still be compatible.  

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18 minutes ago, Eric Ostendorf said:

The button plate is actually a separate part.  I made it that way so that it would be easy to paint because I hate masking parts when I can just let the printer spend an extra couple hours to churn out individual parts.  The buttons sit in little square cutouts in the plate.  My buttons were modeled after the size and shape of the adhesive buttons so they will still be compatible.  

That's fantastic, Eric! By the way, I'm sure you already saw it, but your thread greatly reminds me of Bradley's (AngryEwok). If you hadn't already seen it, definitely check it out! You both appear to have the same commitment to matching the game character. Which I love. I hope to find a nice balance between game-accurate and CRL-approvable.

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