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Ukswrath's FOTK build thread

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Ab to Posterior Connection

 

Using 3" black elastic (technically 2-7/8"), 1" velcro and 4 snap sets I created a bridge between left and right side Ab halves and a flexible connection to the Posterior.

 

Sections consist of the following:

 

Elastic

3" x 6" (x6)

3" x 11-1/2" (x2)

3" x 9" (x1)

 

Velcro 

Hook - 1" x 9" (x1)

Loop - 1 x 9" (x2)

 

Bridge before adding snaps.

 

IMG_4651-crop.jpg

 

 

1. Assembly.

 

Starting with the left side, assemble and sew items together as shown.

 

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Right side

 

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Armor side before snaps

 

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Body side before snaps

 

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Separated

 

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Mark lower 2" to indicate lower edge of ab armor. Below this area is where we'll be adding snaps to support the posterior.

 

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IMG_4667.jpgIMG_4670b.jpg

 

 

Using the measures shown mark and drill 11/64" holes.

 

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After drilling holes taper for male snap posts. For the record the two center holes will be using male snaps and the outer two will be getting female.

 

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Install snaps

 

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After installing snaps, test fit.

 

 

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Prepare armor for elastic bridge installation.

 

Outline and apply E6000 glue to armor

 

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Install bridge and add weight to hold in place. Good thing I have plenty of paint supplies... lol

 

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After dried.

 

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Install loop side of velcro to TD lower mount.

 

IMG_4689.jpg

 

 

Install Posterior and check operation.

 

IMG_4813.jpgIMG_4816.jpg

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So any sense of how many tubes of plastic welder you used for this whole project?

 

4

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Ab to Cod connection

 

Starting with cod/belt mounting section of the Ab. 

 

The cod will be connected via two pop rivets, three snap and a 2"  1" nylon webbing. The center most snap will be used to secure the front section of the belt (shown later)

 

 

IMG_4710.jpg

 

 

Measure and mark the locations of the ab to nylon mounting holes. The holes are evenly space between webs approximately 3/4" from the lower return edge. Once marked drill the holes 11/64"

 

IMG_4710b.jpg

 

 

Position a 2" x 11" section of nylon webbing at lower return edge and mark through drilled holes. To obtain a more cannon look the cod will be mounted behind the webbing instead of in front as most commonly seen. NOTE: This is not saying my version is correct and everyone elses isn't, just a different perspective.

 

IMG_4712.jpgIMG_4716.jpg

 

 

Measure and mark snap holes.

 

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Measure and mark snap holes at cod.

 

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IMG_4725.jpgIMG_4726.jpgIMG_4727.jpg

 

 

Drill two 11/64" holes for snaps.

 

IMG_4728.jpg

 

 

Install male snaps. Insert male snap posts from the inside.

 

IMG_4729.jpg

 

 

Install outer snap.

 

IMG_4731.jpgIMG_4732.jpgIMG_4733.jpg

 

 

Install female snaps for cod.

 

IMG_4734.jpgIMG_4735.jpgIMG_4736.jpgIMG_4739.jpgIMG_4740.jpg

 

 

Test fit

 

IMG_4742.jpg

 

 

Mount webbing to armor. Pop rivet the outer holes (webbing on the inside of the armor). Note: Rivet will installed on the outside of the armor. Use a flat washer on the inside of the rivet to maintain mounting strength.

 

IMG_4744.jpgIMG_4745.jpgIMG_4747.jpgIMG_4748.jpg

 

 

Finally, a male snap will be used to secure the center hole. This snap will be used to secure the waist belt. 

 

Install snap.

 

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IMG_4750.jpgIMG_4752.jpgIMG_4754.jpg

 

 

Test fit.

 

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IMG_4820.jpgIMG_4821.jpgIMG_4757.jpgIMG_4756.jpgIMG_4755.jpgIMG_4818.jpg

 

 

Finished.

 

Up next, Waist Belt...

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Accuracy Waist Belt Assembly cont.... (in depth and picture heavy)

 

In this section the waist belt will be update with screen material. The two center/horizontal boxes will have a rubber base and there is a 1/4" strip of high density foam or neoprene rubber between the nylon webbing and floor runner material.

 

Center boxes cont... Back on page 9 I illustrated how to make the rubber base mounts. Afterwards I realized though the rubber fits inside the upper (front) box, the exterior dimensions are to remain the same dimensions as the front boxes dimensions. Long story short I remade my rubber base mounts to be even more screen accurate. 

 

Starting with the base rubber block trace outer diameter then cut out.

 

IMG_4586.jpgIMG_4585.jpg

IMG_4588.jpg

 

Creating a step for the box face - Measure roughly 1/4" down from one side of the rubber block. Using belt sander or other remove 1/16" of material off the 1/4" section. The newly removed section will be positioned inside the box face.

 

IMG_4591.jpgIMG_4589.jpgIMG_4590.jpg

IMG_4616.jpgIMG_4615.jpgIMG_4618.jpg

 

 

Regarding the left (grooved) box, grind out bast to fit box.

 

IMG_4593.jpg

 

 

Mounting. 

 

Tools and hardware:

11/64" drill bit

1/2" drill bit

3/4" long aluminum Chicago screws (x4)

3/8" flat washer (x4)

 

Mount preparation. Measure and drill 11/64" hole through mount.

 

IMG_4604.jpg

IMG_4620.jpg

 

 

Follow up 11/64" hole with a 1/2" diameter hole 1/2" deep.

 

IMG_4607.jpg

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Before installing screws contour mount base to the contour on your belt.

 

IMG_4610.jpgIMG_4611.jpg

 

 

Install screws. Add E6000 to screw head and cap, let dry. Adding glue to screw help preventing it from spinning when installing. 

 

IMG_4605.jpgIMG_4606.jpgIMG_4621.jpgIMG_4622.jpgIMG_4625.jpgIMG_4614.jpgIMG_4626.jpg

 

 

Second order of business. Measure ab diameter. Note: Obviously, depending on your waist size these results may vary.

In my case the ab outer diameter measured 39-1/2", this was with the armor completely closed.

 

Measure and cut the belt components.

Inner material - 2" nylon belt webbing, 42-1/2"

Middle material 2" high density foam, 37"

Outer material 2" floor runner material, 40-1/2"

 

IMG_4628.jpgIMG_4629.jpgIMG_4630.jpgIMG_4632.jpg

 

 

Feed 1" of nylon webbing through female buckle and sew

 

IMG_4643.jpgIMG_4644.jpgIMG_4645.jpgIMG_4646.jpgIMG_4648.jpg\\

 

 

Wrap nylon belt around Ab. Place buckle at second box from the left. Mark nylon in relation to ab male snap.

 

IMG_4759.jpgIMG_4760.jpgIMG_4761.jpgIMG_4762.jpg

 

 

Location should be 5/8" from return edge.

 

IMG_4767.jpg

 

 

Punch hole and install female snap with snap facing armor.

 

IMG_4772.jpg

 

 

To be cont.....

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Accuracy Waist Belt Assembly cont.... (in depth and picture heavy)

 

In this section please note the chicago screw lengths have changed due to the addition of the 1/4" section between the nylon webbing and the floor mat material. Besides the 3/4" chicago screws (x4) used for the center box mounts (mention in the previous section) the right side boxes will require 1/2" chicago screws (x4) and the waist belt connection near the buckle will require 3/8" chicago screws (x2). 

 

Continuing on, measure and install high density foam or neophrene.

 

Stack newly sewn nylon and buckle assembly on the floor runner and high density foam. The floor runner material should cover half the buckle while the foam stops at the base of the buckle.

 

IMG_4648.jpgIMG_4636.jpg

 

 

Remove the sticky protection from the foam and place on floor runner material.

 

IMG_4638.jpg

 

 

Install center boxes

 

Place center coxes next to each other directly centered with center snap.

 

IMG_4778-crop.jpg

 

 

Measure 3/4" from the outer edge of the center/right box to the first drop box.

 

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Measure 1/4" between the two drop boxes.

 

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Mark the belt according to the box mounting posts.

 

IMG_4778.jpg

 

 

Using leather punch or other punch holes in nylon.

 

 IMG_4780.jpgIMG_4781.jpg

 

 

Place nylon on foam/flooring material. Mark and punch holes.

 

IMG_4783.jpg

 

 

Assemble boxes on belt.

 

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IMG_4797.jpgIMG_4798.jpg

 

 

Test fit.

 

IMG_4784.jpgIMG_4785.jpgIMG_4786.jpg

 

 

Finish by measuring, punch holes and install Chicago screws at male buckle end of belt.

 

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Install functional drop box covers. Check assembly.

 

 

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Additional measurements

 

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Installed

 

IMG_4827.jpgIMG_4829.jpgIMG_4832.jpgIMG_4834.jpgIMG_4826.jpgIMG_4825.jpg

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Thermal Detonator cont...

 

Lower mounting.

 

In this brief section I'll demonstrate how to secure the lower half of the TD.

 

Start with measuring and cutting a 1/16" x 2" slit in the lower return edge.

 

IMG_4696.jpgIMG_4698.jpgIMG_4699.jpg

 

 

Feed 2" velcro (hook side out). Remove backing except for the portion sticking outside the TD.

 

IMG_4700.jpg

IMG_4702.jpg

 

 

Install foam padding on top ledge. This will help draw TD against the back section of the ab.

 

IMG_4787.jpg

 

 

Protruding hook velcro will connect to loop velcro on posterior. This area is covered by the waist belt and unseen.

 

IMG_4703.jpgIMG_4704.jpg

 

Finished

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Looking truly phenomenal brother.

 

I'll be cutting accuracy mods, and gluing parts within the next 12 - 24 hours, barring some crazy disaster. Thanks for blazing the trail. ;)

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Looking truly phenomenal brother.

 

I'll be cutting accuracy mods, and gluing parts within the next 12 - 24 hours, barring some crazy disaster. Thanks for blazing the trail. ;)

Thanks my friend. No disasters please. Lol
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Where did you end up getting the soft pouches? They're perfect!

Thanks brother, the waist belt soft pouches came with the kit thank goodness.

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Dude. Great work. Was just thinking about how to connect those pieces last night, then I see this. Excellent!!!! :-) keep it up.

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Small re-hijacking here... Further examination of the dressing room photos reveals that what I'd previously thought were Velcro patches on the sides of the ab/kidney are actually strapping with snaps on the ends of it. This means that while the armor does actually float, it floats with the ability to move a bit, which makes a lot more sense than a fixed or rigid float mechanism that the Velcro would provide.<br><br>

Also, no disasters. I have actual parts of armor now, as opposed to piles of plastic. :)

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Better start working on squats to fill out that butt plate  :laugh1:

 

ah hahaha so true, so true

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Small re-hijacking here... Further examination of the dressing room photos reveals that what I'd previously thought were Velcro patches on the sides of the ab/kidney are actually strapping with snaps on the ends of it. This means that while the armor does actually float, it floats with the ability to move a bit, which makes a lot more sense than a fixed or rigid float mechanism that the Velcro would provide.<br><br>

Also, no disasters. I have actual parts of armor now, as opposed to piles of plastic. :)

Yes. The suspension system that I'll be using will be unique compared most that has been seen so far. Trying to stay true to what's accurate.

Thanks Tim

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Thermal Detonator cont...

 

Lower mounting.

 

In this brief section I'll demonstrate how to secure the lower half of the TD.

 

Start with measuring and cutting a 1/16" x 2" slit in the lower return edge.

 

IMG_4696.jpgIMG_4698.jpgIMG_4699.jpg

 

 

Feed 2" velcro (hook side out). Remove backing except for the portion sticking outside the TD.

 

IMG_4700.jpg

IMG_4702.jpg

 

 

Install foam padding on top ledge. This will help draw TD against the back section of the ab.

 

IMG_4787.jpg

 

 

Protruding hook velcro will connect to loop velcro on posterior. This area is covered by the waist belt and unseen.

 

IMG_4703.jpgIMG_4704.jpg

 

Finished

This is brilliant, and better than the gaffers tape I've been using for sure.

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This is brilliant, and better than the gaffers tape I've been using for sure.

 

Thanks Paul  :)

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Seeing how the ab portion joins in the back, is the entire seam covered by the TD assembly?  If so, it might actually be possible to shim that in the back to account for some, um, larger troopers.  What do you think? Is it possible for someone with a ~40 inch abdominal circumference (around the belly button) to wear a First Order kit? If so, one of the two determining factors has been answered.  (The other factor is the semi-insane cost, but that might change as time passes.)

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Well, though theoretically possible to shim there, shimming at the left and right ab connections would be more logical. The armor is already rectangular in shape, shimming the sides would give it a more rounded shape IMO.

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Forgive me I may have missed it, I swear I read through your build, FANTASTIC job btw... Two things really, where did you find that fabric for the chest piece? and where did you get everything painted? I'm looking for a place, but I'm absolutely terrible at painting. I'm not close to painting yet, I still have more trimming, all of the gluing, filling, and mods.

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Hey, I found the fabric in the UK, I have a ton of extra btw.

I used a friend of mine who works for a paint shop here in CA.

Thanks for the kudos

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