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T-Jay

Full resin E-11 from DoopyDoo's with some modifications

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@ Germain (The5thHorseman): had planned to do some additional weathering after the assembly, because in some places it makes sense to have all parts mounted for that.

 

@ Brian (ninusyim): thanks for stating that. Was not aware of this green frog tape and just used what I found at home... Good to know, what to better use... :)

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Update #16     - last paint work

 

As getting closer to the assembly, the Hengstler counter still had to be painted. First covered the plastic part (also on the inside), then sprayed with matt black (can #4).

 

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Tape covered the number rolls and the induction coil. Then counter and bracket were painted in different black (can #5), the plastic connector on the front stayed like it was and the reset button received the gloss black (can #7).

 

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Unbelievable: no colour difference between the 15 years old can #5 and the new RAL 9005 from can #4 :shok:. The idea to give these parts a slightly different appearance didn't work. Anyway, now it is more screen-accurate... ^_^

 

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Carefully added minimal weathering.

 

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Alright, next time the parts will be put together... (woah, I am so excited :D)
 

Edited by T-Jay

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And the tension builds........

Edited by Sith Lord

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Update #17     - the assembly (90% complete)

 

The end is near. Everything is painted. Weathering and washing will be completed stepwise. Now time has come to start assembling! It must have been that feeling, Steve recently described in his build. Wow, I've waited for that moment so long - and some of you as well  :). So, here are the pictures:

 

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Some full views so far (every 2nd picture with flashlight).

 

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Will try to get you some daylight photos this weekend :).

Edited by T-Jay
  • Like 1

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THAT is a thing of beauty!!! WOW! 

 

We need some of these builds pinned!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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All I can say is WOW!!! I think you put just about every other builder on here in the doghouse!! :) Looks amazing!

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Looks... real  :) ! I'm just not convinced by the inner bolt grey, but all the rest is really gorgeous! On which picture have you based this grey?

 

And have you ordered better Power Cylinders than the Doopy ones or you just don't want to put some on your blaster? And didn't you ordered a new mag from Gazmosis?

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@ Brian (ninusyim), Ian (Sith Lord) and Sergiu (jkno): uiih, thank you all. But - well, the build isn't completed yet :P.

The last update only shows the assembling, but there are still some things to do! (see end of next update)

 

@ Steve (gazmosis): wow, to hear this from somebody like YOU makes me proud. Thank you very much, man! :salute:

 

@ MTK: thanks for your compliment, but in that case you must have somehow missed Steve's and Tim's builds. You should definitely have a look at these two threads as well.

 

@ Germain (The5thHorseman): thanks mate :). I didn't like that grey-green paint on the inner bolt but that gunmetal grey was all I found :(.

And as Steve described in his build: it looks some kind of blue. I hope to get this fixed with "washings" to these parts...

Regarding power cylinders: yesterday I read Andy's brilliant research with the result, that I now don't like the Doopy's cylinders any more :laugh1:.

But I am still thinking of ways to modify it, so that it will be added in some later update. The magazine hasn't arrived so far and will also be added later...

Edited by T-Jay

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Update #18     - daylight pictures

 

Scope lenses got installed and mounting screws on folding stock were filled. Did some washing and took pictures in direct sunlight and indoor.

 

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Some full views:

 

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Due to reflections from the sunlight I also made a few indoor pictures:

 

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Then the big brown box came into the game. Ouhh, I like that mixed smell of E6000, ABS plastic and all the other components in there...

 

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And my favourite: (detailed unboxing will follow in a separate thread)

 

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During the last weeks, I had the option to speed up with this build - which has been a lot of fun. I permanently had this blaster in mind and worked on it every day (or at least on the online updates :D). It really surprised me, how deep I got into all this while running that build. And the feedback from you all pushed me to modify things, which were not on my list when I started. So I have to say "Thank you" again to everybody who corrected, encouraged or challenged me. Your feedback definitely had influence on the final result! Now I have to slow down a bit, because serious things in private life require some attention. But I promise to continue the work. It may look quite complete, but there are still a few things on the list:

 

- front aim pin (yes, it is missing)

- white letters at the scope

- paint T-tracks with different flat black

- new replacement magazine (awaiting delivery)

- final weathering (with real rust :D)

- and the worst of all: the power cylinders

 

So a few updates will follow. But for now I wish you and your families a nice Easter weekend. Frohe Ostern. Joyeuses Pâques.

Edited by T-Jay
  • Like 3

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Looks like the perfect timing between the blaster build and the armor!! Is the armor all built by Paul too, or is it just the helmet?

 

And i gotta say that the inner bolt looks completely different now with the washes. That blaster is an absolute piece of art!

 

Frohe Ostern to you too ;)

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This looks more realistic than a real Sterling!!!  Incredible attention to detail!  I'd be afraid to take that blaster out of the house!

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:th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:  Start the Slow Clap for this build...

Beautiful work, Tino. Absolutely top-notch from start to (almost ;)) finish.

Definitely one of the builds that will be referenced for a long, long time by new and old troopers alike!

Congratulations on a job very well done!

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Hello there.

 

I was away for a week and there are still some answers to give :)

 

@ Germain (The5thHorseman): helmet, holster and belt in the last pictures are parts of a full TK ANH Stunt from Paul. Didn't dare to build this holy kit on my own, so I decided to use the waiting time for this resin E-11.

Yes, the inner bolt totally changed its appearance just with the washing. Was surprised about that, too. But it looks much better now. Gunmetal grey was not a good choice for that.

 

@ Daniel (DarthChridan): gazmosis recently called this blaster "a thing of beauty". Now you call me "a beast" -> the beauty and the beast? :lol: Hey, that brings us back to Disney :vomit-into-the-toilet:

Let's all hope they'll make Episode VII better than the prequels... I'm so scared for the next 18 months...

 

@ Aaron (usaeatt2): thanks Aaron! Glad to hear this from somebody, who owns a "real Sterling" (your conversion build is simply: wow!)

This E-11 is meant to be a display piece in the hands of an ANH stunt mannequin, so there are no plans for it to leave the house - except a short visit in a bank :laugh1:

 

@ Brian (TrainWreck): thank you very much! I really like your resin scope conversion :duim:. Things like that make me think about a second build...

 

@ Tim (Dark CMF): hey man, thanks for your kind words (one more time ;)). My English and my online translator are not sufficient to thank you in different words, so I just say: thank you :) and you know I really mean it.

Edited by T-Jay

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I've been following this build for quite a while now.  you've done a really amazing job on every aspect of the build.

and everyone has helped out quite a lot.

 

there are only 3 minor flaws that I see, and by no means do they detract from the overall AWESOMEness of this work.

 

1 counter numbers should not have red details, usually this type of counter ( with it's logo sleeve, as an identifier ) should have white numbers with the last 2 yellow.

2 the end cap lock is placed too far forward. it's supposed to be mounted over the end cap just slightly, as it's supposed to keep the end cap from rotating.  after looking closely at my sterling parts we're  only talking about 1/2 of a MM and it's only the lack of the small spring under the lock that looked like too much light was passing between the assembly. there are 2 positions for the end cap. I guess I'm used to looking at position 1.

3 The clip end should not have hammered finish, nor should the clip, it's supposed to be just flat black. The small triangle shaped divot at the end of the clip on top and bottom should be filled in.

4 The bolts in real sterlings don't show the buffer spring metal part at the rear, that part actually fits inside the bolt, and mounts using the charging handle

   though the bolt itself, and in the center rear of the bolt, the recoil buffer/ spring guide sits inside the rear of the bolt itself.

 

I'll post photos of the bolt assembly soon!

 

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you did a great job on the bolt colors... best I've seen yet!

 

I'm sure that with the new clip from steve, and everything.. it won't matter much!

but I thought I'd point it out.

 

:smiley-sw013: :smiley-sw013: :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley::smiley-sw013: :smiley-sw013:

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

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Tino,

 

Your end cap lock looks good to me.  The end cap has to have clearance to move forward to clear the notches and to allow the folding stock to engage.  The end cap can't move forward with the lock in the down position.  When the lock is lifted, the end cap can be pushed far enough forward to allow rotation and removal.  If the lock were any further back, you probably wouldn't be able to remove the end cap.

 

Video:

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the end cap lock actually has 2 positions. with the end cap pushed back. and the end cap pushed forward.

 

the spring position in the folded format would allow for only 1mm of separation between the end cap and the lock when the cap

is pushed back by the inner main spring.

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the spring position in the folded format would allow for only 1mm of separation between the end cap and the lock when the cap

is pushed back by the inner main spring.

 

Which is exact purpose of the video.  Easier to watch it than explain it.  The first 3 seconds shows the folded format, 1 mm of separation and the spring tension on the end cap.

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the spring not being under the lock makes it look farther back.. we're only talking about 1/2 of a mm or less... I'm just used to looking at the end cap in the locked position with the folding stock folded

 

here's a quick camera phone shot.

 

the end cap lock has 2 positions.

 

this is position 1

 

IMG_20140427_235715111_zpsclusdk5l.jpg

 

this is position 2

the one I'm used to looking at

 

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BTW that is a great video!

 

how about putting a video in this thread of you shooting that bad boy!

 

like I said in the post above... none of this really matters... his build is great... and only has a few extremely minor points to make.

 

no person has done a finer job at making a sterling at this point.  not that I have seen.

this build and steve's build are points of light to shoot for!

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

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@ Vern (TK Bondservnt 2392) and Aaron (usaeatt2): hi guys and thank you very much for letting me know. I fully appreciate your inputs.

 

Okay, the issue with the end cap lock has just been explained perfectly by Aaron's nice video (thanks man, please let it be visible in future B)). And you two metal-masters have to bear in mind this is a resin version with an inflexible lock!

The little gap is required to get the end cap removed, as there is no way to push that lock on a resin blaster ;).

 

Before buying the counter I was aware of the problem with the red numbers but wasn't willing to wait and pay that price 4x just to get a correct one (it also misses the screw on top of the rear cover).

As the build moved on, I sensitized for the level of details and left it as the build was meant to stay at low cost. If I find a correct one for a good price one day, it might get changed...

 

As discussed in posts #57 to #63, all the wrong details in the Doopy's magazine caused me to order Steve's resin cast. So these issues will all get fixed in one go...

Edited by T-Jay

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