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T-Jay

Full resin E-11 from DoopyDoo's with some modifications

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Great build thread and awesome attention to detail! I had a friend who is a model builder assemble my E11 as I wouldn't know where to start. This is one of those threads that needs to be saved for future viewings. Here is the link to my final pics.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24530-anh-e-11-doopydoo-kit-completed/

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I have to say, great wip and great result. :jc_doublethumbup:

Looking forward to your complete blaster.

As i'm sure it will look ways better than mine, you can build my next one :D .

:salute:

Edited by Turrican

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@ Germain (The5thHorseman): I understand. The earlier scope maybe looked okay on the pictures here, but reality was different and weathering was still overdone.

I agree to your point of a combined weathering and still have this in some places like on the front and rear (not visible on these photos).

The colour contrast just got reduced a bit to avoid having the brass "shining" out of the black. It now looks much more real than before.

@ Ken (PiettLives): your friend is very talented. Looks like airbrush work!? Found some mistakes, but Vern already stated most of them. Anyway, a nice build.

@ Stefan (Turrican):  thanks for your kind words, man. In case I got it completed for our next meeting, I will be interested in your opinion on a close view to the details... ;)
And - I'm not sure if there will be another build... :blink:
 

Edited by T-Jay
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Update #11     - the mess with spray can #8

 

Spray can #1 was the 1st layer on every resin and plastic piece, including the Hengstler cover and the ABS components of the inner bolt. It was very liquid, a thin dust cover was sufficient, tears were extremely flat and it dried quickly (10 min). The few silver pigments were hard to see on the bright resin (easier on dark surfaces like the DVH kit ;)).

 

Insertion step: before adding silver, can #8 was used for all bolt parts. T-tracks and D-ring got masked (tracks will get black at the end & the ring already looked good). Paint dried in 10 minutes. A more metallic looking grey would have been desirable, but was not available. In electric light it looks just green :huh:. If it stays like that, I'm going to redo this...

 

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After weathering the small parts and the spring it was clear: can #8 was the wrong colour. All has to be done again!

 

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Okay, now I needed a little encouragement. Applied a 2nd layer of can #2 (belton silver) to every part pretending to be metal or steel. When later weathering with sandpaper, that bright colour will hopefully alert me if I get to deep :lol:. Screwed and glued some parts on the receiver and got serious gaps, which were filled with "green stuff".

 

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The last two pictures show the texture in the resin kit. Must have been moulded from a gun with crinkle paint. Magazine has sanding tracks which will hopefully get filled with the hammered paint. A darker silver (more grey) would have been better to look like steel, but was not available where I searched. The spray was easy to handle, nothing special to take care of and it also dried quickly (10 min).

Edited by T-Jay

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'Kindergartenprojekt'....loooool :P:D ...Soren...you're funny  ^_^
But you're right...this build is really impressive :duim: 

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Thanks Daniel. I also laughed when I read Soren's comment. But his build inspired me to all this.

And thanks for your comment, Germain. I will honor it now with an update - especially for you :wub:  (just kiddin ;))

 

Update #12     - another insertion step

 

Exactly at this point of the build Germain had asked me to recreate the small numbers in the bolt. During the research I had already noticed them and had thought about transferring these into the resin kit. Then I rejected this idea: too small, too time consuming, won't be noticed and so on... But now it felt like I should finally take this challenge ;)

 

Research details: numbers have a height of 2mm and a total amount of 15 characters (including two letters). The setup is as follows:  X00  0  000  000  X  0000 (the X stands for a letter and the 0 means a digit). So I checked the tools and found 2mm number stamps but no letters in that size. Had to improvise and replaced the letters with additional digits. The "Gutenberg procedure" started one last time... :)

 

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Due to spacing issues I had only place left for 13 instead of 15 characters and no letters. Well, that was all I could do in such a short time (this got done the same day as Germain wrote his comment). Next update is about the paint again - I promise :)

Edited by T-Jay
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13 figures instead of 15; no letters...

 

...who cares!?! That's so freaking cool!!! :duim:. You are really nailing this Doopy kit!

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ARE YOU KIDDING ME!!!!!!!!!????????

Just mind blowing!

Yep. I'm with Steve - and the others. Beautifully done. You've got me thinking long and hard about investigating the cost of some of those number dies. LoL

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Hey Germain, Steve and Tim :)  Thank you all for your encouraging words!

Was not sure if you would like this mod, because of the deviation with the characters and the uneven alignment.

Did my best in a short time, but surely somebody will do it better in the future... ;)

 

@ Tim (Dark CMF): don't know what these metal stamps cost (as mine are borrowed) but I think buying these only makes sense, if you plan to do a complete run of mods with them.

You seem to have some more Doopy kits at home, he? ;)

Edited by T-Jay

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Update #13     - main paintwork

 

Prepared parts for next step. Covered everything, which should NOT get the structured surface!

 

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Then added the 3rd layer from can #3 (anthracite hammered effect) to all parts from the original guns (except magazine body, all handle parts and trigger area) and dabbed it with toilette paper. That paint has a slight brownish shade which makes it perfect for the blasters and it is easy to handle.

 

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Wait - am I going totally crazy now, or did I just see a Stormtrooper-face looking at me??? Huh okay, I am not daydreaming. Best regards to all 501st members out there                      :smiley-sw013:

 

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Sprayed the small parts first and then the rest. Took 24 hrs to fully dry (touch-dry after 1hr).

 

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More news to come soon. Thanks for reading and following :duim:  Any comments and critics are welcome.

Edited by T-Jay

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The bar has officially been set. No such thing as the average doopydoos build anymore

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The bar has officially been set. No such thing as the average doopydoos build anymore

Yeah, thanks guys. Makes me not want to do one now. I'll be too embarrassed to post pics!

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Paint seems great! 

 

But looking at the scope rail hole, isn't it a bit weird? It should be a full circle like most of the others

13866110.jpg med_gallery_12157_40_39135.jpg

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@ Steve (gazmosis) and Ian (Sith Lord):  yes I also have that feeling, the DoopyDoo's kits might never be the same again ;)

 

C'mon Ian, get it on. Many threads in this forum can be used as a guide and nobody expects you to do it exactly as somebody else.

For example I like the original folding stock from Steve and Tim very much, but it makes no sense in my build, as I have to keep the weight low for the mannequin :(.

The results will always be different as the build depends on the preferences of the maker...

 

@ Germain (The5thHorseman): Eagle-eye is back! :duim: 

One day I had some "green stuff" left over and thought it would be a nice idea to fill the gap in front of the scope rail, so it doesn't look like plugged into a hole where it doesn't belong.

Edited by T-Jay

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Update #14     - some weathering & last paint layer

 

24 hrs after painting I did sandpaper-weathering in some places and covered it with the reliable candle wax. Unmasked the T-tracks and found two more gaps which had to get filled with "green stuff" before adding the black paint.

 

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Then the last layer (can #4) covered all of the hammered effect, as the original guns had been painted black. The structure remained, only the colour changed. This paint was also easy to handle (started with details before painting the rest). It took 24 hrs to fully dry, in addition to layer 3 this means a total drying time of at least two days! Then I removed the wax and completed the weathering (with sandpaper and Humbrol Metal Cote). Some small parts were sticked on wires to support painting and drying.

 

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Hm, electric light seems to be a bad choice when it comes to the details of weathering. Have to get some photos with daylight when the blaster is finished...

Side note: If anybody wants to create the pure Sterling look (without the black finish from the StarWars props), can #4 should be skipped or much better: use crinkle paint instead of the hammered effect.

Edited by T-Jay
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Looking great, Tino!

 

Can't wait to see the finished product!

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That finish is astonishing!! The colour and weathering patterns look so real, this is amazing. It's nice to see a that much detailed paint-job, and i wish i found a thread like that before painting mine  :glare:

Edited by The5thHorseman

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@ Tim, Vern, Brian & Germain: hey guys :D, I am really glad to see you like it.

 

Did not expect my first weathering to be such a fun. Man, this could possibly lead to another build... ;)

Edited by T-Jay

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Update #15     - the grip

 

The grip caused me some headaches as of what to paint 1st, 2nd and so on. Started with the silver on the trigger area (sorry, no photo) and then precisely covered it with tape. Next was the gloss black from can #7. It took a lot more than 24 hrs to dry.

 

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Now also the gloss black grip got covered to add the hammered paint and the matt black on the sides.

 

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Removed the tape and found some problems. Paint was under the masking and some silver paint was taken away by the covering tape. Better dab the tape on some textiles (to reduce adhesion) before applying it on a painted surface. Ja, ja, ja ... :rolleyes:

 

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These details got fixed within a few minutes, so no big issue and the inner section received a different colour (gun metal grey).

 

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Please feel free to leave any comments and critics (steady Germain ;)) while I work on the next update...

Edited by T-Jay
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I tried very hard... but found nothing to complain about :P

 

Perhaps just some umber/black washes on the silver aeras to give them some weathering and be more consistent with the main gun which is (wonderfully) weathered.

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It won't help too much with removing paint with the tape but I swere by the frog (green tape). As long as you don't dump paint on it I've never had any issues with bleeding under the tape. Just make sure you apply decent pressure when applying.

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