Jump to content
T-Jay

Full resin E-11 from DoopyDoo's with some modifications

Recommended Posts

Nice find, Germain!! You truly have a very keen eye.

 

Tino... Nothing to add, brother. It is simply brilliant!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the luke blaster seen in those photos is a non firing version.  some clips were cast that way, but the real firing

blasters had a correctly modified clip.  so really there are 2 types of clip ends.

the right way.  and the wrong way. both are seen in the film.  remember. there are 3 kinds of e-11

in the film.

 

1. solid resin cast, with wrong clip cut. trigger is cast in resin

2. bapty demil, with block of wood, or wrong cut resin clip. solid rear aluminum block no trigger

3. real sterling with properly cut working clip. fires blanks and ejects shells.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ Ian (Sith Lord), Andrew (Sly 11), Aaron (usaeatt2), Dennis (Blue Snaggletooth) and Tim (Dark CMF): wow guys, I still feel honored by all your friendly comments! Thank you so much for these encouraging words!

 

@ Germain (The5thHorseman): hey, you're back. Guess you had to spend all your time to find that incredible screenshot! So it's true: the standard magazine in the DoopyDoo's full resin kit is correct and screen accurate! - except the end cap! ;)

 

@ Vern (TK Bondservnt 2392): so that's the reason, why the Doopy's magazine doesn't contain that small clip on the rear side, correct?

Edited by T-Jay

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes. the doopy do replicates 2 styles of blaster.

1.  block of wood style.

2 incorrectly cast clip end w/ graphic removed, would replicate a resin cast clip.

the missing clip lock is the indicator of the incorrectly cut clip end. which we'll call the divot clip.

 

adding steve gaza's magazine corrects the errors from cutting the clip for a non firing replica.

making any doopy do with an extended bolt and correct magazine, into a correct candidate for replicating

a blank firing muzzle flash,shell ejecting e-11

 

types of e-11 used in STAR WARS

ANH / ESB

1 resin cast solid gun  esb, seen with added greeblies sight rail and resin m19  block of wood or divot cut

2 rubber cast basic e-11, no cells, or counter, divot cut mag.

3 bapty demil, aluminum billet at rear. solid rear, trigger group,grips all replaced with aluminum copies. no bolt,spring or trigger. no screws at muzzle. divot clip.

4 actual firing sterling, w/blanks. thin rail, m19. no counter or cells.  has silver dot on rear sight pivot as a marker.

   ROTJ

5 MGC canadian C-1 sterling variant. 2 sights added, scope combined from scope cut down parts and greeblies.  gun hammers and a door lock w C shaped grips.

6 Rubber cast versions of ROTJ blasters.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If somebody here is interested in such details for the own build, check these Completion Sets for E-11 kits.

Edited by T-Jay
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hm, not sure if I should make a thread for this, as the armor has been fully finished and completed by Troopermaster himself.

During the ordering process at the end of last year, I was just too scared to mess up this high-end prop.

 

Of course I already did some optimizations & supplements and took several photos of each, but I don't want to bore anybody here (in case such threads already exist).

And I don't know where exactly to post this (as it is not a complete build).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm never bored of gazing at TM's armors.

And the ANH stormtroopers section is broken in two different parts, the build threads and the other threads, like the "show-off" ones.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/6-anh-stunt-and-hero/

 

But off course, i don't want to force you, do as you wish mate  :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay Germain, I thought about your comment and started working on a separate thread for the armor.

Will have it online in a few days and keep you updated here.

Edited by T-Jay

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright, the thread for the ANH Stunt armor has just been uploaded.

 

Here it is...

Edited by T-Jay

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi T-Jay, I have to say i am really impressed with your work here and I am following (and why not saying it?) and sometimes copycatting your kit assembly  :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:  I have a thread as well, it's in the Spanish Garrison, but I am afraid you have to register to have access to it, in case you are interested.

 

I have even found some lenses for the scope  :D But I have a question, how did you fix them in the scope? Glue? Wouldn't that let some traces of the glue? Couldn't it take the paint out and fall?

 

Thanks in advance for your answer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ruben, thanks for your honest words! Much appreciated :duim:

 

Regarding the scope lenses: These were a bit tricky to place. I carefully used super glue on the outer edges - but take care: less is more! And you don't want to see it after it dried.

It did not react with the paint I used and worked fine.

Edited by T-Jay
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your prompt answer, Tino. 

 

You confirm my worst nightmares  :icon_beg: Glue on the sides of the lense, "drop" it in the hole and cross your fingers... or ask TK-0000 for some help as well  ;)

 

My small lense is ø13mm and hard plastic, so I am sanding it to a smaller diameter trying to keep a conic shape, I hope that helps when glueing comes into scene, let's see...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:laugh1: Yes, the lenses got installed by TK-0000, because he simply has the smaller hands. If he returns from the detention block, I can ask him to come to Spain to assist you :laugh1:
 
15233952109_e16cd26985_m.jpg

The truth is: this is a critical point of the blaster build, where your lenses could seriously get messed up! So take good care and work precise.

Edited by T-Jay
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi again! Lenses holes fully finished, the big one sits perfectly on a "step" and it gets on place just by pressure (hard to take it off), so when it is time to fix it I will place the lens partially in place, put a drop of glue on one of the sides and then press until final position   :rolleyes: For the small one I sanded the border at 45º more or less and it will have to be "dropped" on the hole :icon_beg:  I'm thinking in using some kind of "suction tool" to help me in the task, since TK-0000 is busy at the moment...

 

Nevertheless, thanks for your support and why I am really writing to you is regarding the paint (my nightmare). As yourself, it has been around 25 years I stopped building airplane models and I never weathered, so you can guess I am doing a lot of research ;) . At the moment I am trying to fully understand your process (which I have re-read at least 5 times already), let me summarize it and please correct me if wrong. In very brief words the key steps and for the main body only:

 

-Apply plastic primer to all plastic and ABS parts. It was very liquid, so a quick light layer should be enough

-Apply silver coat. I guess it can be a little bit thick, in order to avoid exposing the ABS when sanding? 

-Apply hammered coat and paper dab it. Anthracite is a good color. Now, I guess you applied a thick layer of this? Do you immediately dab it or you wait for some time? Do you use a clean paper each time or do you continue using the same painted piece of paper? By the way, I find the idea of paper dabbing (among others from you) amazing  :icon_bow: 

-Now, tricky point. Update #14. You weather it with sandpaper and you apply the candle wax, only to the visible silver? to the sanded areas? in different spots like in the sight?

-Apply satin matte black. Remove wax and go on with sandpaper, no risk of exposing the ABS? What do you do with the Humbrol Metal Cote, dry-brush or retouching?

 

I hope these are not too many questions, bus as said, I love the way you work, I fully understand (almost) all your methods and you arrive to solutions that have the good balance between aesthetics and effort - at least for me  :duim:  

 

Many thanks in advance!

Edited by Benur

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Ruben, you seem to be one of the precise guys :). I really appreciate that and I'm happy to help in both ways, with my build thread and by answering questions.

Glad to hear you fit the lenses  B) and your summary is absolute correct! You can find my answers below in blue:

 

-Apply plastic primer to all plastic and ABS parts. It was very liquid, so a quick light layer should be enough. Yes!

-Apply silver coat. I guess it can be a little bit thick, in order to avoid exposing the ABS when sanding? Absolutely.

-Apply hammered coat and paper dab it. Anthracite is a good color. Yep! Now, I guess you applied a thick layer of this? Not thin, not thick - but fully covering. Do you immediately dab it or you wait for some time? Immediately. Do you use a clean paper each time or do you continue using the same painted piece of paper? Use the same as long as it leaves a nice texture.

By the way, I find the idea of paper dabbing (among others from you) amazing  :icon_bow: Paper dabbing comes from Felice ;)

-Now, tricky point. Update #14. You weather it with sandpaper and you apply the candle wax, only to the visible silver? to the sanded areas? in different spots like in the sight? Candle wax on all parts where you want the current color to stay visible: if you cover the dabbed paint, it will later look, like if just the last layer (black) got scratched off. If you cover the silver and remove the wax after the last paint layer, it will later look like a much deeper scratch or paint chip.

-Apply satin matte black. Remove wax and go on with sandpaper, no risk of exposing the ABS? Sand very carefully and not all the way through your silver layer.

What do you do with the Humbrol Metal Cote, dry-brush or retouching? This can be used for both and gives different results, depending on the technique.

 

Hope this helped a bit :). Feel free to ask your questions at any time, either here or in a private message (that might be better for some special details).

 

Hope you'll have the same unexpected fun as I had ;) Good luck!

Edited by T-Jay
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your prompt answer, thanks for the details, thanks for the support, thanks for the offer and yes, I am having a lot of unexpected fun!!! So much that I do not want to finish it, but meanwhile I think a couple of dudes are getting an E-11 for Christmas this year  ;)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello there

 

to be honest, I didn't expect to add another update to this build anymore. But as mentioned in thread entry #125, I wanted to exchange that Hengstler counter some day (if I find a correct one for a good price).

Instead of a complete counter, I contacted Dennis (TK-50101 Blue Snaggletooth) and asked just for small parts to replace the last two digits of my Hengstler. But what our "local counter dealer" ;) offered me, was irresistible:

a really strange counter without bracket and reset button, wrong cover, but all 6 numbers in black and the big eagle logo. Totally useless for any E-11, but perfect for my intention.

So the aim is to merge both units into one correct counter...

Edited by T-Jay

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update #24     - Hengstler 400 conversion

16086913441_1c3ffd11b2_b.jpg

16086815811_1c78a69125_b.jpg

15469054803_9fc6424989_b.jpg

15901292388_43969aca5f_b.jpg

16088022832_c99944341a_b.jpg

First I thought about trimming these flat, then realized I would later need these notches to align the numbers. And I had to reposition the metal bar to bring the numbers exactly to the window in the cover...

15902976547_dd4b34155b_b.jpg

15902975857_6a21c44cdd_b.jpg

16062934176_27aa7a319c_b.jpg

15469050563_8ac99aaaa9_b.jpg

16088736895_e63fa9a260_b.jpg

16088019722_3d1acde8a5_b.jpg

Edited by T-Jay
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

GENIUS!  Very well done, Tino!!!  You should be quite proud of your efforts!  :jc_doublethumbup:  

 

The ONLY suggestion I could make would be to countersink another hole below the large eagle and glue in the top of a flathead screw.

After that, yours will be indistinguishable from an original.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Each time i see this blaster i'm really amazed by how real it looks... I'm sure it must have been a funny work to tweak around with these two hengstlers! And the result is excellent :).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ Aaron (usaeatt2), Dennis (TK-50101 Blue Snaggletooth) and Germain (The5thHorseman): Thanks very much, guys :). That little project was definitely worth it and yes, it was fun to combine these into one.

Dennis, thanks again for that nice counter and that unbeatable price :duim:

 

(...)  The ONLY suggestion I could make would be to countersink another hole below the large eagle and glue in the top of a flathead screw.  (...)

 

Okay, will possibly do some research on the real eagle counter and add this screw. Still got the original screws from my old counter (you see them on the picture, were the coil was taken out).

Edited by T-Jay

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Amazing attention to detail. Would have been challenging to do what you just did! Great job.

 

I hope you don't leave it closed up in a box for too long. People need to see it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...