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T-Jay

Full resin E-11 from DoopyDoo's with some modifications

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measure number height by having someone put a caliper on it.

use photos of real sterling bolts to sequence and align

use an engravging service to make a thin metal strip.

use a dremel to dig a layin for the strip. and fill.

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Hi Vern, this idea is perfect! :duim: Sounds like the correct way to the best result.

 

Unfortunately this takes some time and last night I have already created the numbers like I did it on the magazine port...

 

That reminds me to urgently update this thread... :blush:

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Update #07

 

Sorry, still no paint this time :mellow:. But I can finally update the correction of the magazine. To get it to the slightly bigger dimensions (as Daniel / DarthChridan showed in his photos), three sides were covered with 1mm ABS plastic sheets. Oh my god, why haven't I found Steve's offer earlier to save myself from all this...?! Anyway, the slightly arched top plate (yes, the one with the "Gutenberg letters") got sanded down to be straight :(. Cut a new top cover out of a 1mm cable duct and rounded the edges with a standard iron for clothes. Then the side covers got cut.

 

13602888885_92d10a052a_b.jpg

 

13603251554_568817df2f_b.jpg

 

Did some trimming and sanding, but the side covers looked simply bad. It was clearly visible they were just attached onto the original surface. So I enlarged all cut outs, glued the white plastic onto the resin magazine, filled the cut outs with "green stuff" and used a set of key files to make similar imprints.

 

13603251434_399f3fddc6_b.jpg

 

The mag is now thicker and like on the real one, you can see where the two pieces of "metal" join together (front view). On the rear side this gap was filled, as it represents the bent metal. Excess from the green stuff was simply cut away from the sides. Then it got primed, sanded and the 5,5mm hole (for the 5mm LED) got drilled again. Finally it received the same "Gutenberg letters"  ;) as the first version. As a consequence to the bigger magazine, the walls of the magazine port had to be thinned out. Nice, that was on my list anyway. And while doing this, it also received a second screw and a metal pin for additional stabilization.

 

13602888535_8ce0d0d6ec_b.jpg

 

13602903283_33287bb6e7_b.jpg

 

The metal pins were then also added to some other parts. And the locking mechanism in the end cap got improved.

 

13602888035_e647bd2141_b.jpg

 

But I don't get Steve's magazine offer out of my head. And as I am not 100% happy with this result, it might get changed at a laaaaater point. First I want to get this blaster done. It can then still become upgraded...

If there will be paint in the next update? Ouh, aaaahm, well - we will soon know ;)

Have a nice weekend all and thanks again for reading and following :duim: 

Edited by T-Jay

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Looking good, Tino! I thought it was probably you with the green stuff, but logically assumed that if it had been you, you'd have done it here, as well.

 

For the record, I've painted a part. LoL. ;). We will have to paint stuff eventually.

Edited by Dark CMF

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Hi Tim, was wondering how we can be online at the same time (because of the 6 hrs difference) and just noticed it is 2:40 in the morning. Ooops :icon_eek:. I started preparing the next update for this build and forgot about the time.

Hey, congratulations to your paint work - or as somebody else once said: you've taken your first step into a larger world :laugh1:. I also began painting and after a short while it was a lot of fun. Let's keep fingers crossed...

Edited by T-Jay

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Excellent work once again on that magazine. You are... talented!! 

 

I kind of feel guilty now, it was so much easier for me as i used the same magazine than DarthChridan  ^_^

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remove the divot on the magazine body. when a full sized mag is 'properly' cut down, as the doopy mag shows that it's not cut down properly by

the missing clipclock assembly and the divot.  the divot in the end of the body of the mag keeps rounds from binding at the

end of a 32 round mag.

 

sterlingblastercore007.jpg

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

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@ Germain (The5thHorseman): thanks for your comment. I also tried to get hands on that magazine from Daniel's photos, but had no luck.

Today I couldn't resist Steve's nice resin magazines any longer :D. Happy to move on with the build now.

 

@ Vern (TK Bondservnt 2392): not sure if I got you right. What exactly is the divot I should remove?

 

@ Steve (gazmosis): sorry, got no idea what you mean with that last comment?!

Edited by T-Jay

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Aah, thank you very much Germain for highlighting this! Learning more and more every day :).

And to be exactly that also means there is another problem: the two imprints/straights next to the divot must then be wrong, because these are not running into the end cap.

So it looks like the resin mag in the Doopy's kit has obviously been moulded from the top end of an uncut magazine, right?

Then this could also be the reason why it misses that little clip thing on the rear side, but that does not explain its mismatch in size...

 

Anyway, according to my earlier mentioned hint, the Doopy's mag will get replaced in a while (thanks to Steve :D)

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13602910.jpg

 

If the magazine would have been chopped off above the magazine clip pin, it shouldn't be there:

med_gallery_12157_40_2166.jpg

:th_AnimatedBravoSmiley::smiley-sw013: :smiley-sw013:

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Aah, thank you very much Germain for highlighting this! Learning more and more every day :).

And to be exactly that also means there is another problem: the two imprints/straights next to the divot must then be wrong, because these are not running into the end cap.

So it looks like the resin mag in the Doopy's kit has obviously been moulded from the top end of an uncut magazine, right?

Then this could also be the reason why it misses that little clip thing on the rear side, but that does not explain its mismatch in size...

 

Anyway, according to my earlier mentioned hint, the Doopy's mag will get replaced in a while (thanks to Steve :D)

steve has done an excellent job on the castings.  ah... one less thing for me to do!

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Update #08     - first paint

 

As some of you already know, I fear to screw it all up now, because my model-building skills weren't used for at least 25 years. Never had an idea of "weathering" but this must be that trick, which made my planes look somehow different than the photos on the aircraft boxes ;).

 

The search for the right structure is a big issue for some people here (what I fully respect). But I didn't want to go that deep. From ANH we know the guns looked just black, no visible weathering (doesn't mean it wasn't there), while much more details can be seen on reference pictures. But it is necessary to separate screen-used and others (police / military) and changes in production and so on.

 

Although there is a perfect looking crinkle paint being introduced by Steve (gazmosis), I chose the hammered effect as this looked closer to the reference photos I have. But it had to be reworked somehow to look correct. To find the best way, I sprayed silver on an ABS stripe and then tried standard paint, dabbing it with toilette paper and sprinkle it with pepper flakes :lol:. Yes, a bit unconventional but something must work here... Then a matt black coat was added. Here are the results:

 

13687892534_d786d45902_b.jpg

 

13687549345_487f5789c8_b.jpg

 

13687892224_755f612093_b.jpg

 

13687587773_2cf752a6aa_b.jpg

 

In my opinion the standard paint just hadn't enough texture, while the peppered looked a bit too rough. Might have been better to use wheat flour or something. Anyway, I liked the paper-dabbed version most of all and was fascinated how the matt black finish turned into dark grey after sanding. So I decided to go for that. It should be mentioned, that the idea of paper dabbing the fresh hammer coat came to me via DarthChridan, who got it from Felice (best regards to you both :duim:).

 

At first all resin parts got washed. While these were drying, the screws and the scope rail got painted matt black. And some tests were sprayed on the resin counter (which won't be used here). Sprayed the hammered effect and 1/3 with additional satin black and tested some types of sand papers. Again: this was only for testing, I know the counter doesn't get structured paint :)

 

13687550665_0af1e8d6e7_b.jpg

 

To know which colour to use for what, was not that easy as I imagined. Had to do research again and to bear some things in mind like:

- which parts were on the original guns and required this rough surface? - how to get this surface? - what had been added for the movies and required clean black?

- what needs to look used or scratched (and where)? - how to make this used look? - what to paint when and how long to dry? and so on...

 

Here you see a selection of spray cans for this build and what they finally will be used for. Of course this is no reference (there are much more adequate products available). It is just what I found locally to be okay to work with:

 

1 - plastic adhesion promoter (not a primer, transparent with few pigments only, for all plastic parts before adding colour)

2 - belton silver (satin matt metallic silver for every part to simulate metal or steel)

3 - Hammerschlag (anthracite gloss with hammered effect for rough surface on all main parts of the original Sterling)

4 - RAL 9005 (satin matt pure black as the final layer of all parts which will get paint #4 and some other pieces)

5 - very old satin matt black (to have a slightly different black as #4 to set colour accents at scope, rail, counter, counter bracket and counter cover)

6 - Humbrol Acrylic Brass 54 (metallic brass for M38 scope only - it took four different shops to get that and it was the last available bottle)

7 - RAL 9005 (high gloss pure black for the handle and the reset button on the Hengstler)

8 - Tamiya Color TS-70 (matt grey-green for colour accents on all bolt parts and the spring)

 

13687893324_ce708a032d_b.jpg

 

REAL paint works in the next update :)

 

Side note: decided to add power cylinders and front aim pin later and to concentrate now on the main build.

Edited by T-Jay

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Thank you, Steve. To hear this from somebody who went so deep into that topic, really makes me happy :).

Before uploading the last update, I had chosen the same way to do it and have meanwhile done a few parts. Will hopefully soon show some pictures of that...

 

On 4/7/2014 at 12:34 PM, T-Jay said:

 

Anyway, I liked the paper-dabbed version most of all and was fascinated how the matt black finish turned into dark grey after sanding. So I decided to go for that.

It should be mentioned, that the idea of paper dabbing the fresh hammer coat came to me via DarthChridan, who got it from Felice (best regards to you both :duim:).

Edited by T-Jay

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Update #09     - the real paintwork has started!

 

Don't ask me why, but somehow I wanted to start with a small part, as it is easier in case of redoing everything. The choice was the M38 scope. First the plastic adhesion promoter, then the Humbrol Acrylic Brass 54. Both dried quickly but compared with real brass, the colour seems too golden (to me). Anyway, that was all I had and it took four stores to get this last bottle of ANY brass colour! - seems like there are some more troopers in my area :laugh1:. I masked the bottom of both feet. Rear foot got also covered on the sides, as found during my research. Placed a sticker stripe inside the rear opening to save a brass circle inside, which will later be visible through the lens (also seen on an original).

 

13711616054_88127d7f14_b.jpg

 

Wrapped a textile wire into the gap (to later make it look like the join of two parts). Then added my "liquid mask" :P and painted it black. While it dried, my three plastic screws for the front received the silver spray from belton and then Humbrol Metal Cote (wow - if treated correctly, this stuff can later really look like metal).

 

13711615884_5aa5acb79a_b.jpg

 

Felt totally excited when I removed the maskings and was so happy, how well it had worked with the candle wax. Hey, my first weathered part! :peace: But I have to admit: it was too much and didn't look quite real, so I had to rework it :blush:. Then I made some comparison pictures. But unfortunately the camera didn't catch the before/after effect very well. Even with the circles it is hard to see a difference in some places.

 

13721254563_ab9f415d25_b.jpg

 

13721606884_dd6eb95eae_b.jpg

 

13721250493_c435588958_b.jpg

 

Now good? Or still too much weathering? Please let me know, what you really think about it? So I can redo or rework if necessary. Thanks in advance! :)

Edited by T-Jay

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Looks outstanding. Sometimes less is more. You have controlled your feelings!!!

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Looks great Tino!

 

I'll be watching closely - I've started priming my parts now! ;)

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Hey Steve and Tim :)

 

Thanks for your encouraging words! Although you've both replied in a positive way, I can't feel completely happy with my result and will therefore put this scope on the list of 'things to be redone' (or at least reworked) later. And trust me: that list will grow with the next update, because I really messed up some parts and now have to find a solution...

So better don't watch too close, except to learn from my mistakes :D.

 

Looking forward to the next updates from both of you. Keep the people entertained, while I try to save my blaster from the trash can... ;)

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That is truly a magnificent build/mod...makes my own look like a kindergarten project.....hats off (ausgeseichnet!)..:)

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Hi Soren :). Thanks for having a look.

 

It's been a while since our last contact. You have to know, it was YOUR OWN BUILD which inspired me the most when I began with this! :salute:

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Update #10     - scope v1.2

 

Just a short update on the final version. Weathering got reduced one more time by applying a thin coat of black colour. Didn't expect that, but it worked  :). Here are three photos:

 

13766128254_14b187688d_b.jpg

 

13765748215_cd19df97a2_b.jpg

 

13766105794_8117d53b47_b.jpg

 

Next update might take some time, because I have trouble with the paint work...

Edited by T-Jay

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Actually i did like you when i weathered my scope, tuning down my weathering with a succession of black washes until it blends very smoothly with the black. But now i'm not so sure about it, i think it should be a combinaison of some weathering done this way (weathering of wear) but also of some chipped off paint localized at the exposed areas (scratches weathering).

 

So even though i like this version, i also think your first version of it was really interesting.

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