DarkTrooper

I've been using this stuff on my current ABS ATA build. I love it. Like the label says "water thin, fast curing". It welds the two pieces together. --------

Waste of time.

Use the pet/window screen that has a rubber/plastic texture to it. I've used the really thin metal mesh and that stuff was a pain to work with. It kept fraying.

AP . . . IMO

my 2 cents. Cutting the ab piece does make breaks to the mens wash room more easier. If that's something you want to keep in mind for trooping.

LOL I'm gonna have to visit Hawaii soon

Good looking armor & a cutie under the helmet

I'm thinking about getting one of these. They're about $75 less than a hyperfirm. Some of the details look better, like the underside of the folding stock. My hyperfirm has a solid underside whereas these new rubber blasters look to have pieces that look separate and more real to a actual sterling folding stock. Plus they'll be coming with a metal D-ring.

I started with my ab piece too. Did you get a helmet kit too?

Nice job. Its so clean. Are you gonna add a bit of weathering?

I'd trim it. I'd cut a little off of the kidney plate. I'm going to have to do that with the kit I am working on. The kidney piece I have is longer in height at the outside edges and shortens as you move toward the center. You don't want it tight on you. You wanna leave some space between you and the armor. You can strategically place some foam in areas to help it sit right on you.

What armor make are you working on? AM/TE/etc . . . We can better help you with a picture actually depicting your dilema.

It's become a "monster"! Its too crowded at times but I'm gonna miss it. I think every nerd, geek & fanboy should experience SDCC at least once. I remember my first time attending I didn't even know it was happening. I was in San Diego visiting a friend and heard it was going on downtown. I was able to get a ticket at the door and enjoy a day there. Its not that easy anymore. A portion of the following years tickets are sold out quickly during the convention and then its madness trying to get a ticket online a couple months later. I need a break this year after attending the past 4 years, especially with all those Twilight fans attending recently. Plus, buying a house made a huge dent in to my available funds for convention going. No SDCC or Celebration for me this year.

I just finished watching it again. Perfect way to end my day. Plus it was the orginal 1977 theatrical version, unaltered by modern technology

Stormtrooperguy's DeathTrooper

Have patience. I was placed on the waiting list at the end of February . . . . still no word

That Blue Realm stuff is far from "decent" . That stuff is superior to anything HALO related that I've seen. I'm looking into making some HALO armor too, or an Iron Man suit out of EVA foam. I've been on the 405th forums but its hard to navigate. You'd think they'd have a for sale thread with the amount of members who have already done the hard work of building up sets of armor with pepakura and then made molds to cast the pieces.

Unless this guy got ears from someone else, I think he got hero ears from ATA too. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19562&hl=&fromsearch=1

I've seen ATA kits come with two sets of ears. Can anyone confirm that they come with hero and stunt sets?

I cut off about 1/4" off the straight side of the d-ring, drilled through the end cap of the hyperfirm and worked the ring through it.

There is a whole separate Special Ops Detachment/Forum for this specific costume/armor. Come and visit. http://forum.501stspecopsdet.net/ Meanwhile here is what is listed for the Blackhole trooper's costume requirements. Meet all base Blackhole/Shadow Stormtrooper requirements. ARMOR * Shoulder straps should not be attached with visible rivets or snaps, and may free float in the back rather than being permanently attached. * Armor side gaps need to be closed. This should be done by adding a shim or shims of material that must be of similar material and color as the ab and back plate. Shims should fit flush and may have seams. Ideally they will be seamless if possible to the ab and/or back plate, resulting in a single seam between the ab/back rather than extra seams for where the shims are joined. * O2 canister should be attached via silver or black metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and should be all black without silver stickers or silver paint. * Drop boxes should be closed in back and hung from the ends of the belt with black elastic * Correct sized buttons on the Ab Plate (7/16â€) and must be gloss black in color * Belt must be made of a glossy material to closely match the shine of the armor. HELMET * Correct hovi or resin cast hovi mic tips. * Ears should have three visible screws used per side, one above and below the ear bump and one at the base of the helmet or 2 screws per side, one above the ear bump and one at the base of the helmet. * The drop from the Ears must also bend towards the back of the helmet, instead of vertically. COLOR COMBINATION *Present a single source that matches your helmet/armor color combination. Any armor not seen is presumed to be gloss black. BLASTER (choose one) ANH E-11: Folding stock (does not need to function) * Hengstler counter * D-ring on the rear * Correct style scope * Two power cylinders on the magazine * Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast. -- Total of 6 T-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered) * Hasbro blasters: -- Total of 7 T-racks (if you cover all the original Hasbro rows of holes) or 6 T-racks (if you cover the original Hasbro "open row" of holes on the Hengstler side. Below this, you must grind off the original Hasbro lower T-rack and drill a new row of holes) -- Hasbro blasters are discouraged but allowed * No ESB/ROTJ greeblies on the blaster are allowed ESB E-11: * No power cylinders on the magazine E-11 (used in promo pictures only) * Two greeblies on the left rear area * Three studs on the right rear area * Add two scope block greeblies * Remove front bayonet muzzle disk * Remove mag housing parts. * Remove D-Ring mount * Swoosh trim on right above the pistol grip ROTJ E-11: Same as ESB (minus the 3 studs) and * Two greeblies correct greeblies on the left rear area (door catch and two "hammers") * second d-ring on front DLT-19 * MG-34 Base * t-racks with wire on the front and back of each set of T-racks * disk * feed cover * Charge handle

This was also happening with my calves on my Sand Trooper armor. Plus they were getting pushed up over my boots. So to correct the problem I made a set of stirrups in both calves. I hot glued some elastic high enough in them so I can put my boots on.

I just ordered one from Darman. Got it within a week. He's in your area too, FLORIDA!

It depends on if you can spare the material. I say go for it if the armor will still fit you if you remove some material. In my case I need to remove extra areas because I'm a smaller trooper.

http://www.tonybarnett.plus.com/snaps.html I came across this site before I even discovered the FISD. I found it very helpful during my first armor build.