CableGuy

Hi John, I’m only viewing on my phone at the moment, however I’d say your pencil line is looking about right. Personally, I’d want to get the coverstrip right in the middle of those “ridge” lines (highlighted here in blue). Equal amounts either side of the coverstrip will be key to an even appearance. Just make sure it’s nice and straight. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Martijn, Tube stripes should be painted approx a pencil width from the cheek. Some recommend applying the template, then a light coat of white paint (to reduce paint bleed from the blue), then the top blue coat. Tube stripes can vary from 9 to 16 stripes per side. They don’t have to be even. Mine, for example, has one less on one side due to the positioning of the ears. Regarding how far forward to come, here’s a reference pic. This is the “Dave M” helmet. If you are concerned about the size of those templates, I’d highly recommend the TrooperBay “Dave M” style from TrooperBay. Here’s a thread I posted a while back about the Dave M templates: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44755-tube-stripes-anh-stunt-dave-m/ This might help a little, too. This is TK4510, AKA TrooperBay, applying and painting the tube stripes. Best wishes Dan

Nice work, Jenny. You’ve fitted it really nicely to your frame. [emoji1303] All I’d mention (not said above) is that the thermal detonator is possibly a little small or the screws are rather large? And, something not clearance related but a possibly useful for other prospective troopers, the tube stripes appear to be on the opposite cheeks. This will not be noticed by joe public, just one of those finer details of the TK. (As I was dubbed “Tube Stripe Sheriff”, I couldn’t go without mentioning it). Best of luck with clearance. See you at EI soon. :-) Dan

Yum. That’s going to be a tasty trooper when it’s finished! ;-) Excellent progress, as always. :-)

Looks central from that shot. Always easier to see when it’s on you, though. Keep up the good work. :-)

Just checking, but, is the coverstrip going to end up being straight and centre down the back of the calves?

Well done, folks. Lovely to hear trooping stories. :-)

Nice work. [emoji1303] It’s odd watching this thread compared to what we usually see - most DD builds have lots of extra details being carved into the resin - yours is the opposite with lots of parts covered up with putti. Good job though. Very interesting to see. :-)

Sorry dude. Hope all is okay. Come back to FISD when you’re ready. :-)

I’m really impressed with how much you’re looking into it. I’ve no doubt that you’ll end up with an epic TD. :-)

Love the pattern. :-) Is it just the camera or is the screen used a little more brown - like a soil type colour?

Good spot. Thank you, Daniel. :-)

Hiya Looking good. :-) Just a little note to watch the size of the ab buttons. Also, straight edges and corners on the little one. ;-)

Nice work. [emoji1303] Knowing that you’re aiming for Centurion, you’ll want pan head slotted screws for L3. Yours appear to be dome head. Its not listed in the CRL but it’s likely to be raised. Dan :-)

Hi Ron, Exciting to hear that your armour is coming on well. The helmet is really rewarding when it’s done so try to enjoy the journey. Q1. I am doing an ANH TK Stunt. From what I know, all of the markings need to be hand painted, correct? I have a stencil set already, but I thought I saw somewhere that the mouth can be cut every other piece with a black grill put in behind it - to allow for a little ventilation. Is this correct, or does the mouth have to be completely kept on and painted? Hand painted better suits the originals so it is generally the preferred method. The teeth are opened/cut - for ANH Stunt, this is 4 per side to comply with the CRL. (Some screen used helmets had more or less but most had 4 holes per side). I found that Mike from TrooperBay gave a superb set of painting tutorials. 2. I am looking for the best tutorials that even the dumbest, least skilled builder can follow... ok, this isn't a question - it's more of a plea for help! This is the tutorial that I personally followed. This is my armour maker, Ross of RWA), making one of his lids. I found this incredibly clear and helpful. *Be advised that this suits his helmet, so check out other builds of your armour maker if you can. 3. Who can put me on to the best place to buy the liner for fitting on the inside of the helmet? Don’t really have a liner for mine. Went for tactical helmet pads and blacked mine out with self adhesive sheets of EVA (craft foam). Feel free to post any more questions. :-) Dan

Very nice. Lovely, neat job. Can’t see any clearance issues of note. Just watch those pesky drop boxes! Lol (Don’t worry - mine do the same now and again). [emoji1303] All I might add is that you could extend the frown paint a little more, beyond the undrilled 5th hole for that extra bit of Stunt, if you wanted to. :-) Best wishes Dan

Hey buddy. Slight image link issues at the moment. I think we’re seeing your garden? Might be your image option from Imgur. Direct is the preferred one, I think. :-)

Top job! Welcome to the ranks. :-) Dan

Top job! Welcome to the ranks. :-) Dan

I really like where you’re going with this, Greg. I’m really enjoying seeing your effort to make it look natural, and to specifically mimic screen used. You can’t get better than the look of screen used, in my opinion. :-) Out of interest, what did you do with the airbrush? Just a light dusting?

Hi Brendan, Personally, my armour was 1.5mm ABS so I used curved Lexan scissors for the whole build, with the exception of cutting the eyes. I did a small amount of sanding with the dremel, once the parts were glued, but even most sanding was done by hand for more control. I found the dremel essential for my blaster build but not really required for my armour. Best wishes Dan

Good on you. Might as well try what you can and see how it comes out. Your boots will loosen up a little after time too, making it easier to squeeze the shins around. [emoji1303] Regarding the buttons, you’ve cut the sizes nicely. Buttons are really neat. Original buttons may have been a tad smaller but it’s nothing that would affect clearance. :-)

Fair play for trying why your trying. Luc’s right that they might become a weak point. Failing that, you could just buy another set of shins. Perhaps some with a little more room and without the ridges on the back*. As long as the colour matches. :-) *

Troopermaster ™ in the UK does children’s kits. Not sure what the minimum height would be? You can find TM on Facebook. Or@troopermaster

Hi John, I think the boots might be a little wide at the top, however it also looks like there is very little room for adjustment on the ATA shins. Even without your boots, it looks like they’re a tight squeeze. Based on the raised edges that ATA have on the backs, it doesn’t look like you could have left much more than you did. Here’s a couple of other ATA builds from the EIB applications and they both appear to have “scooped” the rears. Perhaps they had similar issues? Calling[mention=27198]lucnak[/mention] (he’s one of these examples and an Imperial Attaché. They both have a nice slim build, like you, so it should be achievable. Might be worth having a quick look at Lucnak’s build thread to see how he did the shins and what boots he has. Stick with it mate. We’ll get you there somehow. :-) Dan