CableGuy

Excellent job, Jonathan. :-) To my eyes, it looks like you’re easily on target for EI, with Centurion in reach too (when you get there). :-) Based on previous applications, I’d imagine a couple of small things ‘might’ come up as suggestions to improve the look of your suit. Your shoulder bridge straps have quite a bit of excess at the front. These could be trimmed back for a more accurate look. And your smaller ab plate could be a little smaller and squarer, if you fancied it. Excellent work. Best of luck with your application, (although it looks like you won’t need it [emoji6]) Dan

Hi Chris, Nice work so far. If you haven’t seen these already, TK4510 has some brilliant videos on lid painting. Here’s one that I followed for the vocoder paint. Having the right brush shape plays a big part in this. Best wishes Dan

You’re making a cracking job of that so far. You mentioned more weathering - what’s next on he agenda?

Cheers mate. Steve D would be SOOO proud!! Lol

Cheers, Tom. That’s very kind. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Coming on really nicely, Tom. :-)

Thanks, Greg. Maybe reach out to Mike (TK4510 on here) and see how that method holds up. He shows his trooping sandie in the video so I’m guessing, if you seal it well enough, it’ll hold up quite well to trooping. Thanks, Brien. Probably not until my RWA armour is showing signs of yellowing or damage. Whilst I’d love to buy another kit, I have my eye on a different character at the moment so my funds will be going in that direction. If anything, I’d probably rather do some light weathering to my TK, like Tino (T-Jay) did with his as I love, love, love the look of it - however, not sure I could get away with that for trooping.

Thanks, Daniel - much appreciated. :-) I’m following your sandie build with interest, too. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi everyone. So, around 1 year ago (June 2017) I started a project to revive my 12 year old Shepperton Design Studios Stunt lid. The years has taken their toll on my once beloved TK lid so I did my research, ended up finding the videos of TK4510/ Mike / Trooperbay and decided to strip down, spray and hand paint my old lid. Well, this REALLY got me interested in Stormtroopers again and, thanks to doing plenty of research on FISD on how to respray my lid, got me hooked on the whole armour idea. Right, back to the subject at hand.... I came across Mike’s videos again on YouTube, one of which was weathering a Sandie helmet. Based upon this I ordered some Fullers Earth and a Revell weathering set. Following Mike’s excellent video, essentially the process is done with hairspray > earth flicked on with paintbrush > brush off excess earth > repeat. This, mixed with brush dabbing, sponge dabbing, sandpaper in places etc hopefully leading to a realistic, dirty/used look. Firstly, I started by painting over the vertical black stripes in the traps and tears, then improving the frown paint by extending it beyond the un-drilled 5th hole. I also took the opportunity to raise the brow. As this isn’t my trooping lid, I simply cut an additional upward curve in the cap. Time to throw some dirt at this thing!! After fogging the front of the lid with hairspray, I started to flick Fullers Earth at the lid to give a general covering. After letting the hairspray dry for a bit, it was then time to brush of the loose earth. Essentially, the process is then repeated and repeated, mixing in different shades of earth at different times, and focusing in areas where dirt would naturally build up over time. Next round: Now, at this stage I decided to do another round of hairspray and darker earth, then attempted some wet sponge dabbing..... I went a bit heavy!!! Well - as it was heavier than I had planned, and my first attempt, I decided to have another go. I took the lid out to the garden and literally washed off all of the weathering with the hose! I started the process again and was a lot more careful with damp paper towels his time. Here’s some picture from along the way. And now for the finished lid. Overall, I’m really pleased with how it turned out. I set out to make a naturally dirty looking sandie, hence using Fullers Earth and weathering powder, to get a textured look, and am pleased with the results. Hopefully to photos do it justice. Enough from me - thanks for reading. Dan :-)

Here we go. Some pics with measurements. These are the “hand painted” style templates from TrooperBay. Hope that helps a little. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi mate. Here’s a good red picshowing the shins. Nicely sitting over the top of the boots. I won’t post pics of mine here as they’re not RS and I know RS shins are a little interesting as it’s two of the same shin. As they’re RS though (closest you’ll get to screen used), I would try to keep them at the length they came as, if you can. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fair play to you for trying freehand. Based on the precision of the originals, I would very much imagine they were also templates (or at least masking) used for the movies, so don’t be put off using them if you need to. I have a set of templates at home. I’ll measure them up and update you shortly. Also, don’t forget that tube stripes should be approximately a pencil’s width from the cheek. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Feel free to leave your post up on here for a little bit longer to get some more feedback. Then you’ll need to get in contact with your Garrison to start the approval process. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No worries mate. You’ve done a good job. Regarding the shins, if you haven’t already, you can fit Velcro to the front of your boot (and opposite on inside of shin) and/or poppers at around the back (calves) attaching them to the boot tabs. I have both methods on mine (link in signature) and they haven’t twisted at all so far over 5 troops... and LOTS of stairs!! Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi James Looks like you’ve made a great job of that overall. Especially as you’re a taller trooper. Basic should be easily in reach. [emoji1303] It terms of overall appearance, I’d probably just suggest reducing the bicep/forearm gap at your elbow. Best of luck with clearance. :-)

I’m a little late to the party here but, great job so far. Excellent vocoder painting amongst many other lovely bits. Well done on that belt ammo pack too. I was a little concerned when I saw the billhags diagram as the proportions on the diagram look a little off: however, you nailed it with your one!! :-) I don’t think I could see a reply to your ab button question. Here’s a great reference shot. Your smaller ab button could come down quite a bit when you get to it, pretty much losing all of the flashing/return edge. Best wishes Dan

Hiya. Those ab buttons came out nice. :-) If you’re going to remove some anyway, you could consider either a re design your own template that you can apply to the cheek (rather than marking on the cheek), or source a ready made template which matches the ANH style. Trooperbay make lovely “Dave M” style. The style and positioning of tubestripes are quite a defining feature of the lids so it’s an area worth focusing on. :-) Regarding a top coat, paints like Humbrol and Testors are the recommended ones. I used Humbrol on both of my kids and it sits so nicely that there is no need for any top coat. Dan

Looks really nicely fitted. Great job. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks really nicely fitted. Great job. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure how I missed this thread when you first posted, however, many congrats!! I hope your troop went well. Dan :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow - looking great! At a glance, you should be easily set for basic and probably on for EIB. Great work, sir. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Freddy, The thumb print would be inside of the arm. The coverstrips would be front and back of the arm. Thumb print is usually on the left arm. Dan :-)

Great news, Bob. Welcome aboard. Any my plans for EI and Centurion?

Neat and tidy. [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol. A straight edge didn’t exist in the TK workshop.