CableGuy

Thanks, Jesse. The reference images really do the talking, however, it’s nice to compile them in one place for easy viewing. :-) Nice to hear from you, sir. :-)

It’s not been built overly well. Ears are a little big, tubestripes are on the wrong sides. Unless it’s an absolute bargain, I’d look to get one elsewhere, even direct from RS. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44755-tube-stripes-anh-stunt-dave-m/

Yes, it was very tasty. :-)

Hi all, Thanks to an early birthday present from my wife, my next build is a TM Stunt kit. It arrived beautifully packaged and is a really nice mold. As per the video, I’m very impressed with the detail. I’ll be starting the build soon and am thoroughly looking forward to this one. As I love the look of a fully spray painted helmet (just like the originals), I’m planning to fully spray this one, also. More to come. :-)

Hiya, That was something I knocked up at the time using Serif Page Plus. Unfortunately, I don’t have that program anymore as I switched jobs. :-(

Hi Joseph, Sorry to hear this. Out of interest, where did you hear that it has a “voice changer”? As per the demo, it has perhaps a little filtering to make it sound like a CB radio, but I’m not aware of any voice changer features. I’d contact them if you only get 4 TK sentences - I don’t use the samples, however, it has loads of them that can be triggered by the optional remote. I don’t use this - I just put on my bad American accent and off I go. ;-) Best wishes Dan

Hi there, Trooper. Here’s a handy thread on paint colours; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39650-anh-paint-colour-guide/ The grey for the frown and ab buttons is the same. The blue can be used for ab buttons and tubestripes. :-)

Hi troopers Recently did a video comparing TRamp (Trooper Amp) and an Aker MR1505. Please below and enjoy;

Personally, I went biceps, forearms, torso, shoulder bells. Then moved down to the thighs then shins.

**Please be aware that is is my personal opinion, explained in detail below.** If you are looking for accuracy with your ANH Stormtrooper build, hopefully you will find this very useful. Before you start building, I’d highly recommend that you use the following; - Magnets; to experiment with, and fine tune, positioning of the two parts of your helmet (faceplate / back & cap) - screen reference photos (found on whitearmor.net and/or starwarshelmets.com) - free collage apps (example, LiveCollage) to compare your progress with screen used examples Aligning the faceplate with the back & cap is a key factor in defining the look of your Stunt Stormtrooper helmet. Based on the reference photos below, especially the various group shots throughout ANH, it is my opinion that the majority of screen used stunts had a ‘similar’ appearance to the photos below. There were, of course, a few variations, however, there is certainly a trend (backed up by the group shots). My suggestions are along the same lines as the CRL, following the most common appearance throughout the movies for an instantly recognisable look. Mounting the faceplate high into the back/cap leads to a long (front to back) but short (height) looking helmet, more reminiscent of ROTJ/ESB MKII. This can also lead to the eyes looking a little cross-eyed from the front. The following photos will give examples of this. I have seen this a lot recently and thought it was worth highlighting. As always, each helmet was handmade so slightly different, however, the vast majority follow this method of construction. Do bear in mind that, due to the differences in helmets from different makers, results may vary. Let’s start with the basic premise - the majority of reference photos show that if you draw an imaginary line (shown here in green) from the rear molded line of the back and cap, this will sit just above the eyes; or to put it another way, it is very unlikely that the eyes will sit HIGHER than this imaginary line; Let’s look at this with a helmet kit. The below example is using an RWA Stunt, 1.5mm helmet kit. The below images show how vastly different the same helmet can look, all based on the alignment of the faceplate and back/cap. There are many examples of the ANH style throughout the movie and reference materials, but very few with the faceplate mounted so high into the cap (in ANH). The below photo is a Hero helmet that also supports this theory. As with most Hero helmets, they also had a clear gap between the eyes and the brow trim. Here is Han’s helmet supporting the same theory; The below two photos are the RS Propmasters screen used helmet, again, supporting this theory and alignment. Another, just for reference. Here are some more examples of helmets following this type of alignment/appearance. As mentioned early on, each helmet was handmade so slightly different, however, the vast majority follow this method of construction, as shown in the many reference photos and screen shots. Do bear in mind that due to the differences in helmets from different makers, results may vary.

Lovely progress. :-) If I might make a suggestion, perhaps try experimenting with the faceplate a little (with magnets, ideally). See below: The eyes on your are currently quite sunken into the brow. Just a suggestion. :-)

Very informative, Richard. TKUK would be another suit to consider in this light (for those looking for accuracy). Side-by-side comparisons will also show a raft of inaccuracies.

Many congrats, Jamie. Top job. :-)

Great kit, Ardeshire! Don’t think you’ll have many issues here. The presentation of your application is excellent, too. Clear and concise. Good job, sir. :-) Just one little thing I’d consider - there appears to be some return edge on your smaller ab button plate. Personally, I’d whip that return edge off for a more accurate appearance. Btw, your blaster is more likely a local Garrison issue. I don’t think FISD has a say in whether you can troop with it. Check with your GML. Best of luck with your application.

Great job, Trooper. Well done.

Just posting a few handy vocoder images from ANH. As per the photos, there is quite a common theme/style amongst the stunt helmets. As with all things ANH, there are variations and exceptions. I’m posting this based on the 501st’s usual pattern of selecting the “most common” appearance for uniformity. *note that the current CRL does not specify anything more than the vocoder must be painted black. The main thing to note is how “most” ANH stunt helmets have the “fuller” vocoder style. This is when bars 2 and 6 are quite long/tall. See pictures below. there are variations and exceptions: however, the below image shows two clearly different vocoder styles. Hero helmets have more variation, some with a fuller vocoder, others with a thinner central section.

Hi Andrew, As he was aiming for centurion from the outset, we aimed for the most common vocoder shape seen on stunt troopers throughout ANH - my comment was just in relation to Glen’s feedback. The moulded lines on the RWA helmet (if followed exactly) would give a vocoder similar to one of the hero helmets. The final vocoder shape looks great, to my eyes. [emoji1303]

Nice work, Jamie. Regarding the vocoder, the RWA helmet has a slightly narrow vocoder area. To create a more screen accurate vocoder shape, the paint must extend beyond the physical vocoder molds, as you have done. Note the shorter 2nd and 6th bars; Great work, Jamie. :-)

Great work, Jamie. Your hard work has really paid off. :-)

RWA Creations also sell larger parts which include extra inches here and there. This includes kidney and ab, as well as shoulders, butt, thighs. :-) https://www.facebook.com/groups/rwacreations/?ref=share

Thread updated with link to video montage of build. :-)

Great work. Welcome aboard. :-)

Looking good, buddy. :-)

Hi Martyn Sure - I’ve just received the latest ones from RWA Creations (on Facebook) and they’re nice. Here’s an example (from my latest helmet build) with these templates. Helmet not complete yet but you get the idea. They’re easy to apply and are similar in design to screen used examples. The tubestripes should be approximately a pencil width from the cheek and the front fee stripes should lean forwards, towards the frown, with a template like these. See around 3:20 for a brief look at how they are positioned for painting; https://youtu.be/8c4vs-VfTRw As you’ll be clearing through the UK Garrison, I’d still suggest you get your thread started over there. I’ll happily help you with your build. :-) Dan

Great job, Trooper. Welcome to Centurion. :-)