CableGuy

Bump

Bump. :-)

I did my own tutorials recently. Videos 7-11. Hope these help a little. https://youtu.be/Saqc67Fkvnk I also found TK4510’s videos on YouTube really helpful when I started out. :-)

Stick with it, mate. You’ve done a really good job with the mods here! :-)

Thanks. I’ll be honest - I’m struggling to work out what going on. Might just be the shape of the molds. The right eye is quite a bit lower that the left, yet the cheeks/tubes seem to follow from front to back (suggesting that that’s where they’re supposed to sit). (?) Honestly, I’d say if you’re happy with the overall look, just leave it as is. If you’re up for a challenge, you could take the two parts apart and experiment with the faceplate/back and cap alignment. :-)

Not trying to throw a spanner in the works, but, don’t forget that there are two things that affect how the brow sits. 1: how the actual brow (part of the back&cap) is cut 2: how the face plate is mounted. Before I carry on, don’t think I’m saying that you should make changes - this is just information that you might choose to look at. :-) Although the angles are not exactly the same, the below compares brows with Han’s hero helmet. As below, the blue line shows how the moulded line on the back & cap usually* runs parallel above the eye sockets. Red line indicates the eye socket portion. *each helmet was hand made and slightly different; however, this is common across many, many helmets in ANH. Here’s another hero helmet as an example; The blue line shows how many brows had a slight lift at the brow compared with the imaginary green line. In this example with Jonas’ helmet, the actual brow (part of the back & cap) appears to dip down on the right hand side (left hand side does not). If you have photos from a few feet back (perhaps 5 or 6 feet) like the below, we can advise a little more on the brow. Best wishes Dan

Great news!! Many congratulations. :-)

Welcome aboard, Marchy. :-) Whether you are looking for a basic build or a detailed replica, research is key to a good build so I’d suggest checking out some previously cleared builds to get a feel of the build process. To see the best potential from most suits of armour, I’d recommend the Centurion builds - these are the builds that try to go the extra mile ; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/72-request-centurion-status/ Whilst you don’t have to push yourself to Centurion, it’s a good reference to our you on the right path. Actual screen used armour is where I look, personally. Can’t get better than the actual armour we know and love. Image gallery: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/ Any questions you have, post them up in here or start your own build thread. The community can then assist you all in one place (easier for you to to track your responses later on). Best wishes Dan

Hehe. I’m the guy that posted this... ;-) The middle brow looks more accurate for thickness. Frown looks better on the right. Although, it’s original trilogy all the way for me. ;-) lol

Hi Mark, I make that about 25mm. Personally, I'd be tempted to suggest more like 1.5" for new recruits, just to be a little closer to the screen used suits. Each to their own though, and we are talking small differences here. :-) Best wishes, Dan

Hi Caleb, Yes, always best to ask before you cut. And, whilst the tutorials and diagrams like this are a great idea, remember to always check screen shots from the movies as reference. You can't get better than the source material. Dan

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Before you cut, I’d suggest photos from all round. Trimming the lower edge of the back plate is very uncommon. Hopefully we can find a better solution for you. :-)

Are you able to share full length photos from front, back, left and right, please? That’ll help us judge the spacing and fitment of the armour.

Whilst the CRL images are a loose guide, your best reference material is screen shots of real troopers; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/ As below, ideally the two parts will sit nicely together with no overlap; If you have pictures of where you’re at, we’ll do what we can to get you looking spot on. :-)

Welcome anyway, Ana. Best of luck with your build. :-) Dan

Hi trooper, Great work so far. :-) If you are removing the should bridges again, here’s a little accuracy upgrade that you could consider. As below, the original screen used shoulder straps had nice, square corners. This ‘could’ be a little tweak for you, if you fancied that extra nth of accuracy. :-) This is not clearance related, just an optional upgrade. :-) Best wishes Dan

Looking good, Andrew. As the others said, should be fine for basic. :-) I’m guessing this is an RS commission. As mentioned above, the shoulder bell elastics could be shortened a little, the brow trim has been left a little too long, ear cap alignment might be mentioned if you chose to go for Centurion. These are common with RS and the first two are easy to rectify. RS don’t usually attach the shoulder bell to the bicep. This is screen accurate but not so good for trooping as the biceps can drop and/or twist. I’d suggest adding some elastic between the shoulder bell and biceps to keep your arm alignment looking neat. Otherwise, as above, your kit looks really good on you!! :-)

It’s like a behind the scenes shot from ‘76. ;-)

Welcome aboard, Kane. :-)

Hehe. Cheers, Glen. [emoji1]

Hiya, For helmet padding, I’ve found tactical helmet pads to be perfect. I use four - forehead, left, right, behind head and this works really well for me. Still plenty of air flow. For darkening the inside I used self adhesive EVA sheets. Just cut them to different size strips and stick them in. This can be seen quite well in this video. :-) https://youtu.be/ao5xPPHtEXY Hope that helps. :-)

Good start to the painting, Trooper. :-)

Hi Joseph, Many thanks! That's very kind of you to say. Thanks for mentioning the YouTube link. I've pasted as plain tect for now until I can sort the embedded video issue that I keep having. Best wishes, Dan