CableGuy

Of the two, the grip is less likely to be seen as it will be covered by your hand. :-)

Whilst I don’t believe it will affect actual clearance, the grip and power cylinders on this blaster appear to be based on Rogue One blasters. The ANH E-11 has the power cylinders closer together and the grip is rounded, not squared like this model. As you’re aiming for L3, just thought it mention it as it might get flagged. There are other minor differences but these are the key ones. Again, not necessarily a clearance issue, just a consideration as you’re aiming for higher levels of accuracy. :-)

Hey trooper, The eyes look okay so far. If you can, try taking pics from front, left and right, ideally from a few feet back. (Helps is gauge the proportions better than close ups). Best tip I could give here is using a free smart phone app like LiveCollage. This will allow you to compare your progress with screen used helmets*. Here’s an example - this is one of my builds compared with a screen used helmet during my build. -------------- I used the reference photo as an initial cutting guide, then took photos of the helmet (from a few feet back). Then put the two images together using the app. To me, this is the best way to monitor your progress. * see starwarshelmets.com or the FISD image gallery for good screen shots. Hope that helps a little. :-)

Do you mean for painting the black lines around the ear detail?

Hiya, What do you mean by “helmet to face gap”? Regarding the brow height, the thread was really intended to show that the majority of stunts helmets seen on screen (I’d guess more than 90%), including many hero helmets, had a visible gap between the eyes and the brow (this doesn’t automatically mean a high brow, just a clear gap)- so, as per your latter conclusion, more of a mid brow for stunt based on the many screen references. No one will enforce this and lots of troopers do go for the brow touching the eyes because, as you mentioned, they feel it looks more menacing. Personally, I like how they looked in the movie - that’s what got me interested in stormtroopers. So, for me, I make mine to look more like the 90%+ seen on screen rather than the few. Your helmet looks great how it currently is, by the way. :-)

For even better pictures, check here; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43516-tk-61276-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-tm-361/ STUNNING! [emoji1]

Ah, cool. Hopefully they’re useful. I’d probably check out T-Jay and his TM build. He gave it light weathering and, to my eye, it’s one of the best TKs in the legion. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28549-fully-finished-anh-stunt-tk-15mm-abs-from-troopermaster-with-some-modifications/page/3/

Great choice of armour, Dixon. :-) I’m currently building my TM armour too and can vouch for the quality and beautifully sculpted parts. If it helps, I’ve been documenting my build here; Admittedly, I went to town on the helmet with a full respray, however, the construction elements and comparisons to screen used helmets might be useful. Best wishes with the build. As others said, any questions just shout. :-) Best wishes Dan

Welcome aboard, Rob. :-)

Haha. “Sexy helmet” - I’ll take that!! Many thanks, Paul. :-) Many thanks. I’d recommend these methods to anyone looking for a more screen-like appearance. The TM lid is a big part of it, too. :-)

Welcome aboard, Pepper. I’d be interested to learn more about this Mighty Tank armour maker. Can’t find anything about them/him/her online. Is there a specific reason you’ve chosen this maker, pepper? :-) Dan

As a side note, your drop box elastic appears to be a little too short in that photo. The elastic is pulling the drop box up under the belt. If you can make them a little longer, the drop boxes should hang just below the belt, just touching the bottom of the plastic ammo belt. Example images;

Time for the CableGuy montage. ;-) CableGuy Builds: Troopermaster completed montage

Sorry to jump in, but, how do people think that EVA foam would hold up over time? The hand guards can take some beating from the wrist end of the forearm - I’d be concerned that, whilst they might look okay now, they might deteriorate quite quickly. Just a thought. :-)

Welcome aboard, Llorenç. You’ve come to the home of the Imperial Stormtrooper. :-) Personally, I would suggest you purchase your armour, when you are ready, in one go. If you purchase in various goes, you run the risk of the plastic being different shades of white. Not a good look. Trust me, it’ll be worth the wait. Regarding suppliers, this is a really good read; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ Take a look at these suppliers and their various price points. Then, compare pictures of what they are offering against real stormtroopers one the movies. You’ll then be able to choose the best looking kit for your budget. Before you spend any of your hard earned money, I’d recommend you post your thoughts here. We have a lot of experienced members that might be able to guide you to, or away from, certain suppliers etc. Any other questions, don’t hesitate to ask. :-) Best wishes Dan/CableGuy

Hi all, Whilst recently helping a trooper with his build I noticed a discrepancy with the below Billgram. Many troopers follow this guide and leave approx 20mm between the main plastic ammo belt and the first holster fixing. As below, I believe that the reference images from the movie troopers confirms that this should be more like 40mm. I would suggest that we suggest this approx distance for any future builds. Please sticky if deemed appropriate. Best wishes Dan

Hiya, DA is the only one I know of that can supply them when needed. Others sometimes to the odd run here and there, but DA are consistent. Anon is another but I believe is based in Australia or New Zealand. Helmet runs are in bursts. The DA lid is very nice. I built one last year and the overall quality is good. Here it is if you fancy a look. :-)

Great to hear you’re joining the trooping ranks. :-) My $2; any kit you are considering, compare it directly with screen shots from the movie. Use a free app like “Live Collage” and put your pictures side by side. Comparing directly to the source material will show you which one meets your expectations of accuracy. Here’s an example of a notoriously inaccurate kit vs original (the LFL promo trooper*). Playing spot the difference directly like this really helps to gauge the quality of the moulds, the proportions of the pieces, the overall appearance etc. *this uses a hero helmet: picture for armour comparison only. Best of luck with your decision, Dan

Lol - CRL E-11 picture is STILL wrong! [emoji17] Magazine end cap is round the wrong way.

Great idea to revisit this thread, Tino. For me, I did nearly 9 years in consumer electronics sales, (TVs, home cinema etc) and really enjoyed installing our demonstration equipment. Lots of cabling, hence CableGuy. :-)

Hey Chris, I’m not aware of any ‘standard’ for the sniper knee. Depending on the make of kit, it appears to vary maker to maker. Here’s some nice examples. As you’ve marked with pencil, nice vertical lines are the way I’d go. Some really try to curve or contour them, however, the originals appeared to be cut straight up and down. I’d start with your outer mark to start - always better to cut too little and trim down if you need to. As RS don’t exactly have the correct shin parts, best to have a little more meat, just in case you need it. :-).

Thanks, Tony. Much appreciated. It’s no trouble - I’ve really enjoyed documenting this build. :-)

Thank you so much, Andrew. What a lovely thing to say. :-)

Thank you kindly. :-) I’ll be documenting the armour build soon. Not quite as many videos (like the trimming) but more of the construction, strapping, fitting and light weathering. :-)

Hey Chris, Good work so far. :-) Just regarding the drop boxes, unless I’ve missed a special plan, the strapping (white elastic) should (usually) be on the back of the inner part - looks like you’ve attached it to the inside which will stop the outer part sitting over it. Here’s what I mean; Easy fix as you’ve used screws rather than rivets. :-) Best wishes Dan