CableGuy

To make the image show up in the thread, try the “BBCODE” option.

Good job, trooper. :-) If you’re struggling with images, either try a hosting site like Imgur, or a free app like Tapatalk. Personally, the later is my choice as photos are uploaded directly from my phone in seconds. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you looking for Original Trilogy stormtrooper? If so, 3D printed is not the best way to go. If you want to 3D print, I’d consider characters from Rogue one and the newer movies as they can be accurately printed and finished. :-)

What you have is okay. Key thing is that you’re happy with it, that’s the main thing. As above, personally I’d adjust the angle a little but this is your project. We can give tips and tricks but it’s your baby. :-)

Hey trooper, Personally, I’d get some magnets and try adjusting the alignment. To my eye, I’d try something like below. Imagine the little green circle is a pivot point - I’d bring the nose down a little, which will also reduce the gap you have between the faceplate and the back section. I agree with Mario regarding trying the ears against the helmet. Here’s part of my helmet build video series where I talk about rough trimming the ears to help get the alignment right.

Ears look fine. [emoji1303] Drop boxes - option 3. Here’s some references; Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good, my Lord - I mean, Roy. :-) Really well fitted, especially given your height. Best wishes Dan

Hi Les, Those photos are great. Really helps to get a better look at how it’s shaping up. [emoji1303] Honestly, what you have is fine and could be attached together as you’ve done it. Many troopers like the slightly lower brow look. The final finish is up to you, Trooper. Personally, I’d be tempted to pivot the faceplate down, but that’s just me. (I’m mega fussy with helmets [emoji6]) Imagine approximately where the green circle is as the pivot point. Bringing that down by around 1cm at the bridge of the nose would give a slightly bigger gap above the eyes and perhaps a slightly smoother ‘swoop’ from the tubes to the rear. Again, this is purely why I would do and not something that needs to be done. Perhaps just something to try out and see which look works for you. Keep up the great work, Dan :-)

Making progress. :-) Do you have any pictures from side on, from around 6 feet back? The 6-foot rule really helps us to gauge the proportions of the helmet. [emoji1303][emoji1]

Welcome aboard, Shane. Great to have you join us. :-) Dan

Hi Don, I’ll be honest, I have no idea who Captain Rex is, however, I’d like to welcome you to the FISD. :-) Best wishes Dan

Hi Les Good start. Whilst I agree that you could trim the actual brow a little, the main thing here is that the faceplate alignment is a little out. Here’s a full section on the topic; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48293-anh-helmet-alignment/ In your specific case, I’ve tried to highlight the adjustments below. It’s colour coded so here we go: Blue - the faceplate needs to rotate to allow the tube/cheek to align better* with the ‘back&cap’. *see yellow Yellow - note how the yellow line on the screen used helmet follows organically from back&cap through to the tubes/cheeks Pink line - note on the originals how this line follows the mould line on the back&cap, then rises slightly on the brow area (only a little). This is common. As per the link I shared, best bet is to get some magnets, experiment with the position, compare with originals. If it’s of use, here’s a video where I talk about alignment and other tips for accurate helmet building: Any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. :-) Dan

Ah ha. ;-) Then, no - I wouldn’t worry too much, unless it’s bothering you. Screen used helmets varied quite a bit. :-)

Ah, really glad they help. Sorry, not quite sure what you mean about the left vocoder?

Whilst the lighting is a little tricky, overall this still looks pretty good.

My eyes are clearly as old as yours... More examples here; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48293-anh-helmet-alignment/

This will push the eyes into the brow. Personally, I feel that this would take away from the current appearance. Current alignment looks pretty close. :-)

Hi Thomas, I wouldn't trim any more just yet. As above, try experimenting using magnets then compare to the screen used helmets. That will show you the best position for your faceplate. If you need to trim anymore, that will be the time to do it. If you can, provide clear photos from left, right and front (as shown above, from approx 6 feet away), that'll help us see the current alignment. Here's some extra information on the alignment; Personally, I think your alignment is pretty close, however, the additional photos will help to confirm that. :-)

Excellent work, Thomas. Great to hear that you’re really aiming high. To that end, I’d throw in some potential suggestions; As in a previous post, you could look at the eyes. The originals were cut with a sharp blade so had nice sharp corners and cut lines. The majority of screen used stunt helmets had a fuller vocoder. As such, bars 2 and 6 could be extended. For more reference material on the vocoder, here’s a thread that I put together a little while back; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48252-anh-tk-vocoder-examples/ Keep yo the good work. :-) Dan

Looking good, Trooper. If you can, get some magnets to hold the helmet in place; This way, you can experiment with the position and take some photos. Compare these with some screen shots from the movie and see which position is closed with your make of helmet. :-) Hope that helps. Any questions, just shout. :-)

Great advise! Yes, I certainly agree with this. In the below video, you’ll see me using magnets to hold the two parts together. I find that rough trimming the ears and seeing where they need to sit is also handy. Seeing where the ears should sit will allow you to know where to trim the back & cap and faceplate to get good alignment. This thread also gives some tips on accurate alignment. :-) https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48293-anh-helmet-alignment/ As Mario said, try putting the two pieces together and post some pictures from all angles (from about 6 feet back). Straight on from the sides is a key one. A little like these;

The ring looks good. [emoji1303] You could repair that with green stuff, if you wanted to. That stuff is really easy to work with. :-)

Many congratulations!! Great job. :-)

Great job, Jon!! Excellent. :-)

Many congratulations, trooper. Job well done. :-)