Parquette

I pointed out the overlapping assembly method to Daetrin, specifically regarding the shins and how doing the butt join and coverstrip method won't work. He took note of it and made the revision. And yes, the wearer's right side of the eye with the bump is visually on the left side. I think it should be updated to the wearer's point of view. That's what happens when I phrase things wrong xD The indent on the handguard is very similar to how the FOTK's have an indent on the index part of their handguards. However, the indent is in the middle front of the ROTK handguard.

Great photos! Yes, I would love to see it where we can have an ANH blaster with the flashlight on the side. That was my plan, to possibly get a Hyperfirm B grade at some point and carve out a section of one of the rails and put the flashlight there.

The black on the helmet is on the opposite side in the picture. See how a line of black protrudes from the black line along the bottom at the edge of the helmet.

Then again, the Hero suit had the grappling hook accessory, when all the other stunts had the basic belt without it I agree with the points that the stunt armor's missing the thermal detonator is just a matter of leaving out the accessory for the stunts, but I think it could be kind of nice to not have one as an option. But it is kind of a key element of a Stormtrooper. In regards to the pack/pauldron option, it's been decided that MEPD will take both versions, but all the other TK's have those blasters with the flashlights. It's a standard issue, not unique to the sand troopers. I would like to see the ANH blaster be an option, considering an option thrown into one of the early CRL suggestions list was an optional holster (which none of the R1TK's have). I think for basic is where the ANH blaster option would lie, but not any higher. Kind of similar to how the ANH TK boots are an option (not many makers make the FOTK boot, and the ones that do are either not sized large enough for us big footers, or take forever to ship).

What make are the mic tips? Where could I get a set?

What gray paint did you use on the trapezoids and where can I get them locally?

One final note: In the Level 3 requirement for the Sniper Knee plate, it says it must be lined up with the trim at the top. From my observation of displays, it's not exactly lined up. It's always placed a little bit below the trim line. This could help with mobility and keeping it from sticking up the thigh easily (depending on how it's set up. I thought I saw a behind the scenes photo where a trooper's knee guard was up his thigh). Also I think for Level 2 or 3 we should make it a requirement that the lenses on the helmet have a slight bubble shape, it's very subtle however. Like in the pictures below: search images of rogue one stormtrooper display The first picture also shows that the shoulder straps are slightly rounded at the edges, so maybe for Levels 2 and 3? It's easy on the Jim Tripon armor (I have his chest/back armor) to sand down the edges because the fiberglass is soft.

Yup, that's the area! And Daetrin, the full body picture further up the page in a quoted post by The Captain show what I mean. In that situation an overlap method is one of the best options for achieving that same look, seeing as how a makers like to make these parts in halves.

Hey Daetrin, I noticed on the shins part that the old method of assembling them is required for level 3. However this is not accurate. At the top is the trim that runs along it, but there is no seam present directly in the middle. And the shins in the back I'm certain overlap to enclose the wearer's leg.

There is a bump located on the bottom of the left eye, like the OT helmets. However it is much more smooth and is very subtle. However in a handful of angle shots you can see it. In this one you can see how the right eye slopes down, while the left one has an obtuse angle shape. images of rogue one stormtrooper display images of rogue one stormtrooper display

Things like the frown being attached separately are more properly fitting of levels 2 and 3 Imo.

My apologies for making it sound like I was being discriminatory, it was no where near my intention. I respect everyone as human beings, and I understand a person wanting to find others like him/or her, but I was just talking about why this is becoming a bigger topic within the Legion. I will be a member at the end of the year (at least I'll have the submittion in by then), and I just wish to represent an organisation that look's into the things it supports, because not everything in life is right. Now I'm not saying that gay is wrong, I'm just talking generically. RTrooper, forgive me if that sounds harsh or I'm trying to discriminate, because that is not what I want to do. Just trying to speak the truth to others.

No but they have nothing to do with sexuality. This is a family organisation for kids, we shouldn't be exposing kids to sexuality like the rest of society.

Exactly, which is why I feel it is not fitting for the Organization to take part in any sexual rallies, political rallies, and so on. It has nothing to do with Star Wars

Some of them are. At some point I'll update the first post with all the best mods (along with the easy ones), so everything needed will be in the first post.

I agree with Silverdollar, I'm not sure why the organization trying to involve itself into political and sexual topics like this. Nothing against LGBT people, I feel it's not the Legion's place to delve into anything sexual. Take care!

The reason why it's handprinted on mine is because I don't have an airbrush.

Hey Daetrin, is there a possibility I could use primer paint on my tears/trapazoids? The only gray paint I found that matches is model paint (which I used), but the CRL draft says no to hand painting. It's hard to find the right color gray spray paint at the stores I've checked.

You included the bump! Yay!

I copied and pasted the run down of all the details from page 6, and made a few minor changes. Helmet L1 *Is symetrical. *Lenses are dark green. *Is as pictured. *Tube stripes are recessed. *The recessed section of the tube stripes are blue. *Head opening has black trim running all along the edge. L2 *Has all the requirements of L1. * Tube stripe areas are indented. * Brow trim should be positioned 1/4" above the eyes. * Ear screws must not have a visible slot mark and be flush to the ear. * Any gap between the ears and helmet will only appear to be a seam, not any bigger. * Behind the frown in between the teeth is wire screen mesh. It will be dark metallic or dark grey in color. L3 *Has all the requirements of L1 and L2. * Only 12 tube stripes per are allowed. *The Tube stripes are completely hollowed out with a blue section underneath. *Brow trim’s position varies throughout the film, but is always pretty straight and will not exceed the ¼” position. *The Left eye on the helmet has an extremely subtle "hump" shape, or a bump on the bottom. Very shallow, but the shape of the eye is not the same on the bottom like the right eye. While it rises, it also protrudes slightly. * No cut out forth tooth is allowed * Rank bar area on ear must be of the correct RO style and pattern, no ANH style ear bumps allowed * Frown wire screen mesh is dark grey in color, and there is nothing behind it that closes off the gaps. Neckseal *Neck seal is black in color. *It is fully ribbed horizontally. *Can either be just black fabric, or black shiny fabric that appears to resemble elastic material. *Is tucked away or attached to the underside of the neck hole on the undersuit mentioned below. L2 and L3 *Is shiny fabric material. *Is attached to the underside of the neck hole of the undersuit mentioned below. Undersuit Shirt and Gaskets L1 *Is black. *Is fully ribbed from top to bottom, all horizontal ribbing. *Is made of fabric, not shiny. *Pants are regular black undersuit pants. No tags or emblems are visible and style is up to the wearer. *Gaskets are located at the knee, and fabric and ribs are exactly the same as the Undersuit shirt. L2 and L3 *Has every detail listed above. *The armpit area has a fish netting of sorts sewn in, and is black. Shoulder Armor L1 *Completely covers the majority of the wearer’s shoulder. *Slightly covers the top of the bicep armor. *Has 1 cover strip running directly down the middle of it. *The edge of the shoulder armor is rounded off, including the corners slightly. Shoulder Straps L1 *All the slabs on the straps are a horizontal brick pattern all along it, and are curve shaped. *At each end on the chest and back armor is a slanted slot for the straps to insert into. *The slots on the chest and back armor are further down the shoulder areas of the armor than the ANH Stunt and Hero armors. Biceps L1 *Is perfectly symmetrical. *Has 2 cover strips, 1 on the front and 1 on the back. *There is another cover strip on the wearer’s outside area of the bicep. It lines up perfectly with the section of trim on the shoulder armor. *Each cover strip section has smaller pieces of trim on top of it that does not reach each end of the trim sections. *Armpit area has a cutout shaped like this \__/ with it’s corners at the top rounded. L2 * Front strip is beveled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. L3 *Opening of the bicep is located at the back, directly at the cover strip located there. Is not intended to be a visible opening. Forearms L1 *Has cover strips located in the same areas as the biceps. *The coverstrips are the same style as all the other cover strips on the other armor pieces. *On the ends of each bar is a long piece of trim running up and down the grill. The trim will be seamless. L2 * Front cover strip is beveled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Gloves/handplates L1 *Gloves are all black, with a nylon material of sorts for the top, but a different fabric for the underside of the hand. *On the index finger is a stitched piece of fabric (same material as the hand's underside) that, while stitched to the finger, has 1 cutout towards the end of the finger that reveals the netted material underneath. Like so, (_()___ *Gloves like engineering gloves can pass, as long as they are close in style. *Directly attached to the ends of the gloves are fabric sections that go into the fore arm armor. This prevents any visibility of the wearer’s skin. L2 *Palms of gloves are either shiny black fabric, or can be leather or leather like material. * Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable L3 * A small indent in the front of the hand plate shall be present * Gloves shall have the correct leather pattern along the fingers/palm Chest Armor L1 *Is narrow and symetrical. *Closely resembles the R1 armor. L2 * Bottom of chest plate shall have a return edge * Chest and back are connected with a gloss black piece of plastic. It is as tall as the bottom sections of the chest and back armor. Back Armor *Top of box wall has a mini recessed section. It's rectangular in design, though us slanted slightly. *Has correct R1 detailing. L2 *Back box has a little drilled out hole located above the box on the right side Abdomen Armor L1 * Left control button area is a raised box with four buttons, the bottom being blue and the rest grey. The buttons are recessed. * Back edge of ab plate is angle cut at approximately 70 degrees and has a small gab between the ab and kidney. At the slant, is a wide strip covering the end. L2 * There are two vertical notches on either side of the front vertical bar that connects to the ab plate details, approximately 1" long L3 * Ab plate detail has the correct horizontal bevel detail cut-out along the top. Button details are recessed and bordered with a thin edge. * Cod is separated from the ab plate * The right front raised area is rectangular with correct raised detail, unlike ANH. Kidney Armor *Has no detailing. The ends meet with the Abdomen armor with the slant angled parallel with the ends of the Ab armor. *Directly in the middle is a sideways rectangular plastic section, which is separate from the Kidney. Posterior Armor L1 *Is shaped like the ANH Stunt and Hero posterior armor. *Is symetrical, and completely separate from the kidney armor. *The cod's shape has no angles like the OT, but rather is shaped like so, \ / Belt L1 *Is entirely made of plastic, made up of 2 pieces, with the halves joining directly in the middle of the wearer's side waist. The rear half overlaps the front half's ends and attach with whatever method deemed suitable by the builder. *Along the top in the front are tabs that fit into the non raised sections of the abdomen. *Has ammo boxes across the front, all of them made separately from the main belt and are secured to it. *The ammo boxes on the very left and right of the belt are more square instead of rectangular like the center ammo boxes, and the 2nd to last ammo box is a more fat rectangular shape versus the regular rectangular shape of the center boxes. *Above the thighs of the wearer are located 2 hanging ammo boxes from the ammo belt. *Is made to fit the wearer. L2 * Belt has indents and tabs along the outside belt boxes to sit flush against the ab plate. * Drop boxes are connected to the belt via black Velcro, not white. Thermal detonator L1 *Is very similar to the ANH Stunt and Hero. However, is much sharper in sculpt, and has separate pieces. *The "button" on it is a Deathtrooper chin light without electronics or lenses. L2 * End caps are painted grey on the inside Thigh Armor L1 *For basic, it can have the same style cover trim as the arms, with an extra cover strip on top that is slightly smaller. The only difference with these is that they actually meet the ends and are flush with the bottom layer. *Is fit to wearer *Have raised areas directly in the middle of the front and back areas, with the above mentioned piece of trim on top of each raised area. *On the wearer's right thigh, at the bottom is a mini ammo belt, it only exists on the front and slightly goes to the sides, but it doesn't exist in the rest of the sides or back. *Is short enough that the sniper knee plate of the wearer's left shin doesn't catch (if you look in the film they were purposefully made shorter than the originals) *Not too much curvature in the front (if you look at the screen caps they aren't too curved, and actually have foam paddings inserted so that it doesn't bounce around at the top) L2 *Trim has no second layer, but instead has engraved lines parallel with the sides. They are located close to the edge. * Front cover strip is beveled and approximately 1/8" thick, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. * Right thigh ammo belt is secured using glue, no visible rivets shall be present. Lower Leg Armor L1 *Is fit to wearer *On the wearer's left shin at the top, is a special extension called the sniper's knee plate, which will be done as pictured. It is extended forward a little bit, and no rivets are visible. *The wearer's right shin has no special extension at the top. *Cover strips in front and back are the same style as all the other cover strips. L2 * Front cover strip is beveled and approximately 1/8" thick, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Boots L1 TAKE NOTE: Like the FOTK CRL the OT Stormtrooper boots can be approved for basic if applicant can't find the FOTK style boot in their shoe size. -For FOTK Boots: *Are all white. *Completely black soles that are all 1 piece, with no separation at the heel. It is a completely straight sole. *The wearer's inner side of the boots have zippers, which no Chukka boot elastic. *Are made of leather or leather like material. Must be white. *Are the same as the FOTK boots Holster Start with ANH Stunt as a base http://databank.501s...ng:TK_anh_stunt * Holster is optional. L2 * Holster is not present

You were mentioning that there were non-clean TK's that floated around. Here's 2 major ones: ------------- Also they carry on their hips some riot batons (you can see one in this clip when the explosion goes off). At some point when we have more images I think they could be included as an optional accessory in the standard R1TK CRL.

The only thing that sticks out is how much of a cutout the bottom of the backplate has. The real piece doesn't have such an extreme angular shape. The angle is more shallow.

These are great details for levels 2 and 3 I would suggest the more precise details like measurements are saved for those, with basic being basic. In regards to shoes I remember the FOTK CRL having options for either OT or TFA, which I heard can be done here.

No, above the circled area on the bottom of the eye.

I would reccomend using weather stripping as the neck hole trim to make it more realistic and rubbery You beat me to it! This helmet actually looks similar to mine! I'm glad someone else went the same route with the brow that I did. Still need the eye bump