Parquette

(Edit: Will have to post on another computer, this one isn't copying/pasting the photos for me...)

1 more pic, but of the fabric. -----------

My eBay sweaters came for my R1 TK. What does everyone think? Cotton, should pass basic, and very thin too! Here's the link, they appear to be all out of ribbed shirts (the others are not ribbed).----------

So this is what I bought. I bought 2 of the Navy colored sweaters. While they definately have a little bit of a weave, kinda similar to Netslave's, I think they'll pass basic. I'm going to be dyeing them black, and using 1 for the knee gaskets. ---------------

Edit

Thanks for the ref photos! Putting them on favorites for my build Before cutting the tube stripes away, I'd reccomend going about seeing what/how other people hollow out small areas on armors and such. So far I don't know anyone else that has hollowed the cheek stripes out, but I'm certain people have done similar things for different costumes.

Found him on facebook, and contact was much better! Just have to shoot him a message Here you go:-------------

Thank you Ian! Yes I have to say the cheek tubes are scary to do, I've messed up on a few areas. Howeer, nothing a little Loctite Superglue gel won't fill (obviously may need some white touch up paint though xD ) Look forward to seeing your mods! The X-wing trim may work too, anything that works helps I will recommend for the jaw seamline that it's more of an angular cut, and not at the side all that much. I did this on mine, and it makes it look like a gap. If you went more towards the top of the actual jaw itself it would look better.

What torso armor is that? Jim Tripon's?

Well, technically with mods they are troopable and definitely the most accurate R1 bucket to date, seeing as no one else has made another one. They are slightly on the heavy side, so it may not feel good to wear it for long periods of time. But very close non then less, and should be usable when a CRL comes out. Probably only for basic however, seeing as the dang brow's height messes everything up and it's unfixable without tearing off and getting a bigger one. Anyhow, there is a HOWTO thread in the R1 section that may help. Mentions what can be used other than bondo (bondo cracks, which is why I am skeptical of the stuff).

Yup! I did, which is where I found out that he makes multiple pieces in one pulling. He said they are trying to come up with a method of making solo parts without a whole lot of cost involved.

Note: I am not buying at the moment, but am trying to source parts for when I'm ready. My last post wasn't named properly (sorry about that), so I thought I'd try this again. So for my R1 Trooper, I noticed that the AM 2.0 Chest armor bears a whole lot of resemblance to it (even though it is ANH styled). I would buy it through AM Armor itself, but they don't sell it by itself without other armor pieces coming with it (multiple vacuum formed parts in 1 plastic sheet). So I am wondering if anyone has an AM 2.0 Chest armor that they are willing to part with in the near future. I can't buy at the moment, but would like to have a source on where I could get it from. U.S. only, preferably PayPal, and my budget isn't very big. If you are willing to part with it for a relatively cheap offer, please let me know The armor I am looking for looks like this one, from Navajo Bro's build thread. The sculpt has a particular curve up towards the straps from the breast.

I like your idea of making the Crystal pack and pauldron optional accessories for this CRL. I'm not sure if you're up for it, but would you be willing to write the known details about the backpack for the CRL? I mean, obviously open discussion, but was wondering if you would like to kick it off so we have some information regarding them

501st R1 TK CRL draft for updates Written by Par_ and Daetrin Helmet L1 *Is symetrical. *Lenses are dark green. *Is as pictured. *Tube stripes are recessed. *The recessed section of the tube stripes are blue. *Head opening has black trim running all along the edge. L2 *Has all the requirements of L1. * Tube stripe areas are indented. * Brow trim should be positioned 1/4" above the eyes. * Ear screws must not have a visible slot mark and be flush to the ear. * Any gap between the ears and helmet will only appear to be a seam, not any bigger. * Behind the frown in between the teeth is wire screen mesh. It will be dark metallic or dark grey in color. L3 *Has all the requirements of L1 and L2. * Only 12 tube stripes per are allowed. *The Tube stripes are completely hollowed out with a blue section underneath. *Brow trim’s position varies throughout the film, but is always pretty straight and will not exceed the ¼” position. *The Blue section of the tube stripes is blue tape. * No cut out forth tooth is allowed * Rank bar area on ear must be of the correct RO style and pattern, no ANH style ear bumps allowed * Frown wire screen mesh is dark grey in color, and there is nothing behind it that closes off the gaps. Neckseal *Neck seal is black in color. *It is fully ribbed horizontally. *Can either be just black fabric, or black shiny fabric that appears to resemble elastic material. *Is tucked away or attached to the underside of the neck hole on the undersuit mentioned below. L2 and L3 *Is shiny fabric material that resembles elastic material. *Is attached to the underside of the neck hole of the undersuit mentioned below. Undersuit Shirt and Gaskets L1 *Is black. *Is fully ribbed from top to bottom, all horizontal ribbing. *Is made of fabric, not shiny. *Pants are regular black undersuit pants. No tags or emblems are visible and style is up to the wearer. *Gaskets are located at the knee, and fabric and ribs are exactly the same as the Undersuit shirt. L2 and L3 *Has every detail listed above. *The armpit area has a fish netting of sorts sewn in. Is black or very dark grey. Shoulder Armor L1 *Completely covers the majority of the wearer’s shoulder. *Slightly covers the top of the bicep armor. *Has 1 cover strip running directly down the middle of it. *The edge of the shoulder armor is rounded off, including the corners slightly. Shoulder Straps L1 *All the slabs on the straps are a horizontal brick pattern all along it. *At each end on the chest and back armor is a slanted slot for the straps to insert into. *The slots on the chest and back armor are further down the shoulder areas of the armor than the ANH Stunt and Hero armors. L2 *All the slabs are humped/round, and are not flat. Biceps L1 *Is perfectly symmetrical. *Has 2 cover strips, 1 on the front and 1 on the back. *There is another cover strip on the wearer’s outside area of the bicep. It lines up perfectly with the section of trim on the shoulder armor. *Each cover strip section has smaller pieces of trim on top of it that does not reach each end of the trim sections. *Armpit area has a cutout shaped like this \__/ with it’s corners at the top rounded. L2 * Front strip is beveled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. L3 *Opening of the bicep is located at the back, directly at the cover strip located there. Is not intended to be a visible opening. Forearms L1 *Has cover strips located in the same areas as the biceps. *The coverstrips are the same style as all the other cover strips on the other armor pieces. *On the side is a grill with exactly 13 bars running down the middle. On the ends of each bar is a long piece of trim running up and down the grill. The trim will be seamless. L2 * Front cover strip is beveled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Gloves/handplates L1 *Gloves are all black, with a nylon material of sorts for the top, but a different fabric for the underside of the hand. *On the index finger is a stitched piece of fabric (same material as the hand's underside) that, while stitched to the finger, has 1 hole towards the end of the finger that reveals the netted material underneath. Like so, (_()___ *Gloves like engineering gloves can pass, as long as they are the correct style. *Directly attached to the ends of the gloves are fabric sections that go into the fore arm armor. This prevents any visibility of the wearer’s skin. L2 *Palms of gloves are either shiny black fabric, or can be leather or leather like material. * Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable L3 * A small indent on the front of the hand plate shall be present * Gloves shall have the correct leather pattern along the fingers/palm Chest Armor L1 *Is narrow and symetrical. *Closely resembles the R1 armor. L2 * Bottom of chest plate shall have a return edge * Chest and back are connected with a gloss black piece of plastic. It is as tall as the bottom sections of the chest and back armor. Back Armor *Top of box wall has a mini recessed section. It's rectangular in design, though us slanted slightly. *Has correct R1 detailing. L2 *Back box has a little drilled out hole located above the box on the right side Abdomen Armor L1 * Left control button area is a raised box with four buttons, the bottom being blue and the rest grey. The buttons are recessed. * Back edge of ab plate is angle cut at approximately 70 degrees and has a small gab between the ab and kidney. At the slant, is a wide strip covering the end. L2 * There are two vertical notches on either side of the front vertical bar that connects to the ab plate details, approximately 1" long L3 * Ab plate detail has the correct horizontal bevel detail cut-out along the top. Button details are recessed and bordered with a thin edge. * Cod is separated from the ab plate * The right front raised area is rectangular with correct raised detail, unlike ANH. Kidney Armor *Has no detailing. The ends meet with the Abdomen armor with the slant angled parallel with the ends of the Ab armor. *Directly in the middle is a sideways rectangular plastic section, which is separate from the Kidney. Posterior Armor L1 *Is shaped like the ANH Stunt and Hero posterior armor. *Is symetrical, and completely separate from the kidney armor. Belt L1 *Is entirely made of plastic, made up of 2 pieces, with the halves joining directly in the middle of the wearer's side waist. The rear half overlaps the front half's ends and attach with whatever method deemed suitable by the builder. *Has ammo boxes across the front, all of them made separately from the main belt and are secured to it. *The ammo boxes on the very left and right of the belt are more square instead of rectangular like the center ammo boxes, and the 2nd to last ammo box is a more fat rectangular shape versus the regular rectangular shape of the center boxes. *Above the thighs of the wearer are located 2 hanging ammo boxes from the ammo belt. *Is made to fit the wearer. L2 * Belt has indents and tabs along the outside belt boxes to sit flush against the ab plate. * Drop boxes are connected to the belt via black Velcro, not white. Thermal detonator L1 *Is very similar to the ANH Stunt and Hero. However, is much sharper in sculpt, and has separate pieces. L2 * End caps are painted grey on the inside Thigh Armor L1 *Has the same style cover strips as the arms, with an extra cover strip on top that is slightly smaller and doesn’t reach the ends of the previous cover strip. *Is fit to wearer *Have raised areas directly in the middle of the front and back areas, with a piece of trim on top of each raised area. *Are as pictured. *On the wearer's right thigh, at the bottom is a mini ammo belt, it only exists on the front and slightly goes to the sides, but it doesn't exist in the rest of the sides or back. *Is short enough that the sniper knee plate of the wearer's left shin doesn't catch (if you look in the film they were purposefully made shorter than the originals) *Not too much curvature in the front (if you look at the screen caps they aren't too curved, and actually have foam paddings inserted so that it doesn't bounce around at the top) L2 * Front cover strip is beveled and approximately 1/8" thick, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. * Right thigh ammo belt is secured using glue, no visible rivets shall be present. Lower Leg Armor L1 *Is fit to wearer *On the wearer's left shin at the top, is a special extension called the sniper's knee plate, which will be done as pictured. It is extended forward a little bit, and no rivets are visible. *The wearer's right shin has no special extension at the top. *Cover strips in front and back are the same style as all the other cover strips. L2 * Front cover strip is beveled and approximately 1/8" thick, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Boots L1 *Are all white. *Completely black soles that are all 1 piece, with no separation at the heel. It is a completely straight sole. *The wearer's inner side of the boots have zippers, which no Chukka boot elastic. *Are made of leather or leather like material. Must be white. *Are the same as the FOTK boots Holster Start with ANH Stunt as a base http://databank.501s...ng:TK_anh_stunt * Holster is optional. L2 * Holster is not present

I used the full editor but can't find the section you are talking about Could you please changed it to "Looking for Chest and Back armor"?

My apologies Daetrin. How do I change it again?

I am not sure if this is the proper forum for this, if not, admin please move to proper one. So I am putting together my R1 trooper, and while I'm not buying right now, I am trying to gather all the various sources I'll need parts from. So far I need an FX back armor section, and an AM 2.0 chest armor. Does anyone here have any that they would be willing to eventually sell? I'm looking in the U.S. only, and again am only trying to find sources until I am ready to start buying parts. AM armor does multiple pieces in 1 pulling from vac forming, so I wouldn't be able to buy just the chest armor without other pieces coming with it. Also my budget isn't very big. The AM V.2. armor I am looking for is exactly like this version. Not my armor: armor from Navajo Bro's AM 2.0 Stunt build thread on here.

Next step in the Black Series mod: Adding jaw seam. In the actual screen used piece, people have pointed out a seam directly at the area where the cheeks and the jaw meet. Now on the Black Series this is 1 molded piece, so I had to make an artificial seam. The most accurate way to do this would be to completely seperate the jaw from the rest of the helmet and reattach through adding shims in the underside, but because that'd be a struggle, the best solution is to cut an groove all along the area where the seam should be. So using a rotary tool with a saw bit, make a cut into the corner, but not a deep cut, just an indent that's a little deep. Cut it too deep, then you make an actual cut, which in this case we don't want. Make sure to bring it in and out to do make a groove easier. But be steady with it, cause if you rush it you risk going off course and making unwanted cuts. After you've made the groove, sand both at the edges and inside it to get rid of any rough sections. Take extra care to sand out and remove any ABS plastic shards that didn't come off easily. Now comes the fun part. Making it highlighted to look like a seam. This method is a common way of weathering prop replicas. You'll need 3 things; Black Acrylic paint, a brush, and a spray bottle filled with water. Spray down the jaw's groove with water, and then immediately in a light quantity apply the acrylic paint with the brush. As soon as you do this you'll need to wipe it down, leaving behind only what is left in the groove. This'll make the indent darker and more black, giving the idea that it's got a shadow in the seam. For any areas that are too dark, you can rub it down with soapy water and sand paper. I'd suggest a super fine grit, so no lines are easily visible. This thing is coming along and looking a whole lot more like a proper R1 TK Helmet. More to come Next update: Repainting the rear half with possibly a better paint... we'll see how it goes...

Helmet EIB and /or Centurion level detailing for helmet: Helmet: For EIB and Centurion: -Trapazoids located above the brow will have separate grey panels attached over them so that they slightly protrude. -------- -Tears located underneath the eyes will also be separate grey pieces that slightly protrude from the helmet, with the grill being recessed or completely etched out with a black backing. ------- -Lenses must be bubbled, with no visible gaps between the eye socket and the lens. -Lenses must be shade 4 or 5 green color, but dark enough to cover the wearer's eyes from being seen by viewers. -Vocoder (black section in between the tube mics) must be made of multiple miniature pipes that are bent, and have gaps between them and the helmet (for EIB). For Centurion) The 3 center pipes can be 1 molded piece with 2 of the pipes on each end being separate, but very close to the molded part. Optional: -Weathering for standard troopers are present in scenes. Like the Imperial Labor Prison Camp scene you see in the film, with the "what now? It must be another pick up." guard. He has heavy black weathering that makes him look like he tripped and fell in tar. That and very slight orange and brown dirt build up in corners of the helmet and armor are optional (see ref image of screen used costume at Celebration). ----------

It looks like that white fabric located behind the belt is the Velcro to hold the 2 belt halves together. You can see a grid like pattern with many small white circles.

Hey welcome! I have a quick off topic question regarding AM armor. How was your communication with him? Was he fast when responding? I am interested in his AM V2 chest armor and inquire about it the other day, but haven't heard back.

I copied and pasted the current CRL base onto a writing program on my computer so that I can add all the more in-depth details. I'll share the updated version here a little bit after I have written in more of the found details. Does anyone have some observations of the costume that could be implemented into a new draft? My apologies I seem to be all "I'll do this and I'll do that." This is a community after all, so suggestions and ideas are welcome Also I think I have a much better source for Chest armor instead of FX armor, which is the A.M V.2. Apparantly in another build thread on here, the builder showed some good pics of it. The AM V.2 is straight, long, and has the correct curve sculpt around the shoulder area. With just a few minor mods, I think I may be using this. The main mod I can think of is installing new strap inserts at the shoulder areas. It's funny, its supposed to be OT, but it's almost perfect for R1! I love it when things like that happen Not my pics, other builder's pics from build thread http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa207/bro117/TK%20Armor%20Build/Bro%20AM%202%200/tk_zpsfb4rccjq.jpg Note the curve steering away from the shoulder straps, which is very similar to the R1 trooper's. Also note the symmetry and elongated look of the whole piece. ----------- Again with minor mods this could work. Just showing the options out there, not including any names in the CRL.

Another CRL rough draft info: Gloves: For basic approval: -Are completely black. -They have a special stitching patterned piece as pictured on the index finger. For EIB status: -Have special padding on palm side of glove, with stitches surrounding each padded section. -Palm is made of leather or leather like material. Back is made of a special nylon like weave material. -There is no other additional stitched pieces on top of the other fingers. -Has an attached soft part to the end of the glove that extends into the fore arm. For Centurion status: -Palm and underside of fingers is made out of genuine leather, along with the special stitching patterned piece on index finger mentioned in basic approval. -Have all the details of EIB status. -Extended part of the end of the glove that goes into fore arm is stitched to the glove.

From what I have put together, the AM V.2 chest and possibly back armor would be good for modifying into a Rogue One trooper. Especially in the shoulder areas where the sculpt curves away from the shoulder straps, versus almost cutting straight into it. Picture from another thread. See how it has that elongated look? The R1 trooper has that. http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa207/bro117/TK%20Armor%20Build/Bro%20AM%202%200/tk_zpsfb4rccjq.jpg With the Shoulder straps the only mod to this armor is making new straps that are R1 based, and adding the insert slots into the shoulder areas. Same goes for back armor. Some mods and slot inserts and it'll be R1 armor, especially since the AM V.2. chest armor is pretty symmetrical.

So far even though it's white bottom is existant, in the film it's never seen. We barely see anything with these troopers besides the front shots and a side one of a black pauldron in the trailers and EW magazine. I still think the white bottom should be optional. Also, here's more update ideas to the CRL: Back armor: -Back box has a little drilled out hole located above the box on the right side. -Top of box wall has a mini recessed section. It's rectangular in design, though us slanted slightly. Neck seal: If someone could provide a pic of the neck seal in this that'd be awesome. I still haven't seen one, but am assuming it's like all the other ribbed versions.