Neb Sgird

It also depends on what you expect in terms of durability. Pratorean's rubber blasters will just bounce off a cement floor if dropped, while doopydoo's resin kits are liable to shatter. Resin kits are more modifiable for further accuracy. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Ya bring those forearms up. If they're pinching you, you can take off more of the return edge from the top of them. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Tandy is the go-to in the US. line 24 snaps to be exact. They are strong snaps that won't come apart as you move. James is right, buy plenty of extras. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Given Cricket's track record of awesome builds, I would not back myself in that wager hahaha I'll be watching this with interest! The one drawback to the T21 has always been weight after a couple hours of trooping, I really hope this turns out awesome! Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

I look forward to it! I'll buy the one you don't like off you, a T21 is on my build list but likely not to happen for a veeeeeery long time Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Could definitely work, but keep in mind weight distribution, not just weight itself. Making the stock of wood and keeping the typical pvc tubing for the barrel will make it pretty barrel-heavy. There seems to be a stigma against EVA in the Legion, but I think it revolves around durability more than anything else. I'm not sure what steps you can take to make it longer-lasting. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Looking great! Get that Centurion approval in sooner than later! One tiny little thing I noticed is the fitment of your forearms. The cover strips should line up with those of your biceps. Some extra padding will keep them from rotating like they appear to be doing.

@sharkbait FYI, the holster requirements are still flipped on the sheets accessible with the above links. Great sheet, love it!

Check the HWT section of the FISD for good weathering tips as well. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

For trooping, perfect. Just don't try to wear them for your centurion submission pics Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

I second chicago screws. Easy to take off if you want to clean your belt. I'm pretty sure the screen used method was pop rivets. Edited for auto correct typos. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

I would stay away. Judging by nothing but the pictures on their website, their armor seems pretty low quality. The helmet proportions look off, the details (like ab buttons) looks wonky, and most importantly, theyre using overlap construction instead of butt joins and cover strips. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

No problem! I just wanted to be sure you weren't going to do something more permanent than you wanted Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Assuming your keeping with the topic on this thread, i would stay away from acrylic. It will be comparatively hard to remove, and in my mind would be tough to make a weathering pattern with. Just my two cents. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

I say looking good! Only change I would make is bringing those drop boxes up. We shouldnt see any of their strapping. Welcome trooper! Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

My only concern would be with taking it back off if/when you want to. Acrylic paint is much easier to take off then permananrt marker would be. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Depending on how you build your first belt, you may not need two. My dropboxes are velcroed on and therefore are easily detachable, and my side pouch easily covers the holes from holster removal. The holster itself is just attached with chicago screws, so it's easy to take on and off too. I consistently go back and forth depending on what an event calls for and whether I want to lug my pack for 3 hours or not. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Yes, Imperial boots is high quality, durable and centurion approvable. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Wow. Just wow. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Warning about possible seams: a lot of vendors will hide the seam down the front/side for their pictures, you cant rule out a disqualifiable seam with the single picture on that page. Everything else looks just fine. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Its worth noting that almost all vetted armor makers will sell their helmets separately as well. The getting started section will help you get acquainted with the different armor makers. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Unfortunately not. The CRL requires an ANH or ROTJ style helmet, but the black series has rogue 1 style cheek stripes. If you look at the black series helmet, the blue cheek stripes are inset, as if they were actual vents. In ANH or ROTJ, they were simply painted on or vinyl decals. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Post some pictures of your situatuon and we'll be better able to help. My pack isnt glued, its bolted. I have bolts going from the bottom of the "radio" box into my gas canister body. I can post a picture when i get home to give you a better idea. I personally wouldn't consider glue. You'll be bigger than you realize with that pack on and your bound to whack it against something eventually. When that happens, glue will pop off while bolts will keep everything in place. Only downside is the occasional tightening necessary. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Your neck should feel a little "stiff," but you shouldn't feel like you're suffocating. You should feel fairly comfortable after a three hour troop. Long story short, if you feel like exchanging, it means it is probably a tad too tight. Trying to exchange might be a good idea.

Just noticed this hasn't been mentioned here: the armor in all the new Battlefront games is ROTJ, not ANH (not talking about the handguards, helmet, etc., just the body armor). Biggest evidence of this is the attached kidney/butt. That said, if we want to ignore that fact for this CRL so I can adapt my ANH kit, I wouldn't complain