Neb Sgird

Mmmm shiny white armor. Definitely do aim for centurion! It's easier to do the first time through, that's for sure. I just got my HWT approved this week, the nice thing is (assuming you do your weathering the right way) you can actually go back and forth between ANH stunt and HWT with minimal effort. I plan to get centurion approved on both stunt and HWT (just need to finish my E-11, it's taking forever!) Let us know if you have any questions as you go along, we're here to help!

Both are accurate, but (at least in my area) Testors was much easier to find, so that's what I went with. Just be sure you follow this chart to make sure it's the right color

A note (Hopefully I'm not too late). Be sure to divide the amount you're trimming off the thighs between the two pieces, and only trim the back (the front is likely where it needs to be already). So for your 35mm on the left thigh, do 17mm on the outer segment and 17mm on the inner.

Ya i would reinforce it from behind wirh a strip of ABS. Some go so far as to use an aluminum strip. No need to paste it unlessl it grows. Hopefully it won't! Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Looking good! The middle rivet hole definitely looked off the line at first glance, but once the actual rivets were installed, you can't tell at all. I guess it's too late now, but I would have recommended doubling up the strapping on the rivets. I did mine just like yours and over time (only around 6 months now) the nylon is starting to sag/stretch. I'm going to end up redoing mine...

Woo! Looking fantastic! I would echo the shim comment from earlier. It won't impact your basic approval at all, but will go far in making you look that extra level of awesome. On that topic, it looks like your ab is just sinking lower than the kidney. This is a pretty common problem and you can see it on screen quite a bit. But if you want to get around it, you can employee a sort of latch system on the inside to keep the ab from sinking below the kidney. I can post a picture of mine later if you'd like, just let me know.

Looking good. Slap some white paint on those thigh rivets (same as you would the kidney/ab rivets) and your legs should be EIB ready.

Ya you'll need CA glue., although I've heard people have had success with two-part epoxy as well (I've never tried that). Also, rough up the rubber gloves with sandpaper so there is something for the glue to grip onto. @justjoseph63's handguards come with some cloth embedded in the silicone to assist with this process. Who's do you have?

That snap won't necessarily be covered by your chest piece, although it might be if you're an especially skinny trooper. You can see that snap on Han's suit below. And here it is on my own suit. This was one of my approval pics. I would try to bend those returns to make them more flush and eliminate that gap. *insert obligatory heat gun warning here.*

Untrimmed basically comes straight off the mold, while trimmed means the vendor will prep some pieces for you. @Frank75139's pictures give you a good idea.

Bookmarked for when my own blaster is done. Simple and good-looking, can't ask for anything more!

You'll probably still want to polish. Once it is applied and dried, you will probably want to sand the pasted area back down (wet sanding with fine grit sandpaper) so it is flush with the rest of your armor. The fix will be far less noticeable that way. Once you're done sanding you will want to polish the area so you get the nice gloss back. Novus polish is great for that phase.

I actually go a step farther than what Joseph explains. For my personal mishap where I had to fill with ABS paste a bit of chest that I managed to melt away (don't ask), I started with 220 grit sandpaper and worked my way up in grit levels. If memory serves, i went 220, 450, 600, 800, and so on. Around 800 I began to "wet sand." You can just wet the sandpaper, but I actually like doing it over the kitchen sink, with the water actually running on the part I am sanding. In addition to the gliding action the wet sandpaper will have (as opposed to dry), the running water will help flush the particles you're taking off the plastic so they aren't acting as an abrasive. It's just a little easier to control. I finished it off with 1200 before moving to polish. I'm sure you can find more detailed explanations of the physics and pros/cons of wetsanding on youtube haha.

I personally wouldn't trim anything on the helmet to achieve the high brow look. Instead, play with where you drill your holes for the ear screws. Through trial and error, you should be able to achieve the look you are going for without actual trimming.

I second Cricket's tab idea. I have a similar set up in mine, and it keeps the ab and kidney lined up nicely. As for your second question, I'm not sure I 100% understand what you are asking, but there shouldn't be any overlap on the back parts.

Fair enough. In that case, it should be an easy approval! I stand corrected

Congrats! Now get out there trooper!

Only one thing missing for basic approval: Shoulder Armor Shoulders have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. I'm not noticing those black elastics. See below for what they look like on Han. Others might correct me here, but your frown is a little odd to me. Is there a reason you left white space on the last, uncut tooth? I would think, if extending the frown that far, white space should not be left. With that said, you're looking great!

I'm liking the basketball trick, I just free-handed mine. Good work so far!

Looking good! Everyone already beat me to my observations, so I'll just leave you with this: you'll have your TK number in no time at all!

Nice! You have the three bumps and two screws, so the ears are good too.

Looking good! Our founding fathers wanted nothing to do with anything Catholic, so Good Friday was out

If you've decided to keep at it with the current kit, we're here to help! In addition to the elastic (which is actually required for approval anyway), I would bring your biceps up a tad.

Front looks good. we'll need pics of the side to be sure, as the ear bumps and screws are different between hero/stunt.

I see you had traction on your other thread (for others looking for answers, look here). Great advice there!