Neb Sgird

Ya, as has been mentioned, I would bring your forearms up a tad. It shouldn't block your approval, but it would make your look just a tad better. Looking great, You'll have your TK number in no time!

I actually found the eyeshadow in my package before I read this and thought you might have left it in there on accident! Thanks Joseph, you're the best. I've had a great response to my question on the HWT facebook group, so I figured I'd share here for future troopers. Seems like dollar-store eyeshadow and charcoal powder are the leading contenders. I'll probably do a nice mix of the two. A great method that was mentioned on FB was to coat a tennis ball in charcoal powder and have someone throw it at you in your armor. Should make a nice impact mark for blaster scoring.

No, I meant AP, although I should have added AM to my list. What have you found small in AP? I'm 5'11", 185 lbs (not big, but not small either) and I had a LOT of room to spare on every piece. The helmet might be an exception, I have some garrison members that can't fit into mine haha.

They look acceptable for approval, but I can't speak to the workmanship or comfort without actually having them in-hand. I'm automatically suspicious of vendors that use pictures of actual 501st members on their marketing/sales pages, especially uncredited and probably without the member's permission. That makes me weary of this. Why not go with a more vetted source like Imperial Boots or TK Boots? They are around that same price range.

I put inner cover strips on all my pieces (AP kit, so I had plenty of material to do so). I figured I had spent so much money on this project that I might as well make each piece as strong as possible. It actually made lining up the outer cover strip and gluing it nicely much easier as well (I did the inner strips first) Joseph's right, they don't have to look pretty!

Could you post a picture of the opening themselves (angled from the bottom maybe)? I can't tell what the problem is at this angle.

Ya, if they'll take it, I would return the suit for a refund. The good news is that other, more acceptable kits aren't that much more expensive than what you have now. AP and RT-MOD are generally known for being easily buildable for larger people (I don't know if you're big or the armor is small ) Don't give up hope yet! We're all here to help.

@Daetrin Um I was just looking at the ANH Hero CRL and the shoulder armor section is completely missing...

I bring this up as a proud owner of an AP suit, which has the large tab. I would happily snip off the large bump for EIB or centurion. We shouldn't be basing this off what armor makers do, we should base it off what is seen on screen. As has been mentioned, if larger troopers need longer bridges, more small bumps could be added instead. A more accurate CRL will help armor makers adapt to be more accurate as well. I think it's worth noting that this would be a relatively easy upgrade for anyone needing to replace their bridges when applying for level 3, assuming they use E6000 like the majority of us do. Simply rip off the old ones and slap on the new.

Congrats!

Imperial Boots are definitely some of the highest quality boots out there. Keep sourcing parts! Getting orders is almost as fun as actually building everything. ...almost...

Not to backtrack, but do we want to include the conclusions of the recent shoulder bridge bump discussion here as a level 3 requirement for the ANH TK? It could be worded something like "The last bump on the back of the bridges should not be longer than the rest."

How tall are you? I think you can probably make the "minimal gap" requirement. I would recommend no gap between the butt and kidney and a "minimal" one between the kidney and back. You can bring the back down a little to help this. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

You got this! Feel free to voice questions here as you research. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I haven't seen that particular graphic before! Nice reference!

I definitely plan to do bench-tests before actually slotting anything into the gun. Electrical gurus of the FISD, I need your help! I've put the resin work on hold (I'm waiting on some diamond burrs to show up for my dremel that should make life easier on that front) and have been further planning my electronics. I'm having a hard time sourcing the speakers. I want to keep them around 3 watts (2 watts at a bare minimum) but can't seem to find anything to fit the 20 mm tube diameter I have to work with. Any ideas? To clue you in, these will sit in the back of the blaster, where the recoil spring would normally be seen. @Xinx's build doesn't specify which speakers he used (if you read this, maybe you can chip in), and @skyone's speakers are sold out. 5. Do you guys know of any speakers I could fit in this tube? Help!

I might be late to the game here, and I totally understand where Tony is coming from on this, but I think this requirement might keep larger troopers from making EIB that otherwise could. While it is keeping with screen-accuracy, do we want to go that far? EDIT: This is what I get for responding before fully catching up. I see this has been addressed and the word "minimal" clarified. Sounds like a plan to me! Loving all the suggested changes so far.

Woohoo! Congrats Jared. A fine addition to the ranks of the Empire.

How soon after painting did you take those pictures? It definitely does look shiny, but it could just be the lighting, the angle, or just wet paint. If you used Humbrol 85, you should be good to go.

Looking real good! The only suggestion I have is to get some mesh under that frown. People might end up seeing your face given the right lighting.

Most armor makers will sell you single pieces if asked. See this thread if you haven't already: The tricky part will be matching the white to what you already have. Yes, every maker is an ever-so-slightly different shade of white. I would maybe get with your local garrison, meet a few fellow TKs, and compare your armor's whiteness to theirs before deciding.

Thanks for the vomit warning! Jokes aside, that should work out great!

Time to play some picture-heavy catchup. I actually got my doopys box on my birthday in December but haven't had much time to work on it. Here's what I've done so far... First things first of course was washing the resin dust/mold releaser off the resin. This was as simple as doing the dishes. Here the pieces are drying (bananas for scale, I guess? Next, I started on the basic customizations to make the kit more accurate. The easiest of these was installing various screws throughout the blaster that are included in T-Jay's kit. I'll be taking the majority of these back out when I eventually paint, but its nice to have them in place because 1) they look cool and 2) they won't be laying around trying to get lost. Those of you doing your own build, be sure to countersink the middle two screws in the scope, while having the other three float on the surface of the scope. As I'm sure many of you noticed in the above picture (just awful), I had a problem installing the screws in the barrel. My drill slipped into the inner tube itself and therefore my holes are crooked. They look god-awful and I'm not entirely sure how to get them lined up as they should be. Has anyone else encountered this problem? I also drilled out the barrel and folding stock. I also carved out the stock where the aluminum tube will go. This was pretty easy with a 1/4" drum sander on my dremel. don't see any need to extend further up than where I have, as no one will see the underside of the stock (it will be non-functional). Is there any reason for me to keep going and install the tube all the way to the end of the stock? I also carved out the horrendous guts of from the inside of the power cylinders. These will be replaced by hand-made parts from Tino's kit. I know they still won't be 100% accurate, but this is where I draw the line of "meh, it's a trooping blaster." That's the majority of what I have done so far. Here's the most recent collection of questions...Help! Follow-up on 2. Do you all think a 600 mAh battery would be sufficient to drive an arduino, two 3w speakers, 5 LEDs, and a constantly-on scope display? I'm hoping to be able to go a full con troop on a charge, so 8 hour minimum battery life is the goal. 3. What should I do to fix my barrel screws (see above)? 3. Is there any reason I should install a metal tube along the entire length of the folding stock? It won't be seen by anyone besides myself...

Hey folks, what do you all use for weathering? I want to easily go back and forth from HWT to shiny white TK if/when I want to. Therefore, I want my weathering to be easily cleaned, hopefully with not much more than rag and soapy water. Any ideas? Charcoal powder maybe? Also, I was hoping to make blast marks, as if the my armor had taken a few hits. Any methods you guys use to bmake a sort of crater/impact mark on the armor? Thanks in advance.

Please delete. Posted to the build section instead of where it should be.