justjoseph63

A lot of it will depend on how they fit, Paul. Imperial boots are fantastic, but I've found they tend to run a bit on the small side. I always order a size larger than what I normally wear and use the Dr. Scholl's gel inserts. I also keep a pair of shoe stretchers inside while they are not in use,

AWESOME news, sir! If possible, I would ask a huge favor: Would you consider doing a tutorial (with lots of photos/details) for this? I know it's a lot to ask, but with your mad build skills it would really help out those who will need to do the same thing in the future. If so, it can be posted in this section. Thanks!

Welcome back, Jerome! For the TK footwear, I can highly recommend Imperial boots. They are 100% approvable at all levels and very comfortable. Note that they are made in "waves" (once a month or so) but delivery times are actually quite fast. The next "wave" for ordering starts on July 3rd, info here: https://www.imperialboots.com/ These are the ones to look for: https://www.imperialboots.com/product/421/ One thing I suggest is ordering a size larger than what you normally wear, as they can run a bit small.

Here is a link to some photos which may help, Caleb: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48335-quick-crl-reference-guide-for-your-ot-build-pics-notes-tips/?do=findComment&comment=673646. One thing I did notice is that the top of the ear on the right side could come forward a bit if possible. Ideally, the screws should line up with the rear line of the trap right above them and the top screw should be centered right below the line, (just as you have on the left side). It may be the photo, but it looks like a gap between the face plate and cap is showing (yellow arrow). Moving the top of the ear just a quarter of an inch forward would eliminate both issues. Neither are huge issues in themselves (and Heaven knows the originals had their flaws lol) but for a more polished and symmetrical look this is something I would suggest if you feel up to the task.

If you are having RS build it for you as a commission you should have no issues. Occasionally there are a few minor fitting issues (which are easily remedied) but they really do a fantastic job, and their builds are normally acceptable all the way to Centurion level right out of the box. If you are doing it yourself, there are some awesome build threads here that will help and we are here to assist you every step of the way!

You are not as far off as you may think, Thomas. What I would suggest is to shorten the length of the gray cylinder by about 5mm so that the overall length is about 185mm. This will reduce the gaps between the face plate and end caps a bit so that is not so obvious.

New reference photos/info. added (Hero/ROTJ HOVI tips), ROTJ frown.

Actually, this is one of the areas that most of us leave as much as possible on to give that "thick" appearance to the armor. As long as it is comfortable, I would leave that as it is, but it can be trimmed down as needed. I wouldn't suggest removing it all, though.

Not "Ongoing Sales"?

Is this the new position or the old position?

For EIB approval this is not a requirement, and even though this costume is based on ROTJ armor, most of the video game screen caps appear to show the cap as a distinct separate piece. Based on this, it should also not be an issue for Centurion level approval. (Nice weathering on your bucket, Leonardo)!!

Welcome to the FISD, Perry! I'm also in SC near Charleston, and like Shawn mentioned you should check out the Garrison web page.

Ordered mine yesterday... can't wait!

Any glue seepage can be removed by rubbing it off with your thumb. You may want to carefully score along the seam with a razor knife first to get a clean line, though. Groovy like Greg Brady, Luke. (Hope that reference didn't go over your head, lol). A few had the pointy piece to some degree, but most were more or less rounded off.

The key to a great build comes down to 2 things, Luke: Ask lots of questions and post lots of photos. If you have even the smallest doubt about an issue, it's better to post up a photo along with your question so that you can get the correct advice instead of forging ahead. Trust me. I noticed that you listed your undersuit as Anovos. My advice would be to promptly ditch it, and here is why: Anovos undersuits are infamous for bleeding onto armor, an in many cases the black marks are very difficult or impossible to remove. You can pick up a shirt on Amazon like this and pants like this, which are fairly inexpensive, just make sure there are no markings (logos, colored stitching) which are visible when you wear your armor.

Unfortunately those are old photos in the CRL and need to be updated, Fred. Although it is not a requirement for Basic or EI levels, it is listed in the Hero CRL as a requirement for Centurion** and is screen accurate. **The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels

Here are some screen used armor images that may help: Note that there is some of the ridge showing on the front the pieces, but the since the backs do not have those raised areas the cover strips will lat flat against the armor. Both ways you have it are acceptable, and the sizing can be done in the rear join as needed. Bicep/forearm Thigh front Thigh front Top of left calf piece

Looks good to me as well, Fred. Troopers come in all sizes, and I think you did a darned good job on fitting this armor for your height! (Ideally, the ABS belt could come up some, though). Nice work, sir!

Lookin' sharp, sir!

Model paint (enamel) and house paint (latex) are two different animals, Thomas. Oil base paints are much more durable and designed for wear and tear, whereas latex is not. With latex, even if you sand down and prime the rivet heads first it will not last very long, sad to say. Sanding is a key part of painting most items, as it gives the paint a better surface to adhere to. Enamel is the only way to go with anything on your armor... trust me.

Same experience here. Simply awesome people to deal with all around.

Anovos is currently involved in a class-action lawsuit with "the Mouse" and LFL. They used to be a decent company, but were removed from our "vetted" seller's list a while back because of the long delays and horrible communication. So sorry you got the runaround from them, Tim. If you need help finding a different armorer, we can help.

Wow, Peter... just WOW! This is one of the best submissions I've seen in a long time... a fantastic build with crisp, clear photos. You nailed it, brother! (I just wish I would have known you were going for Hero before you ordered the hand guards). GREAT job!

Sounds great! What I would suggest is to post up in the "Pre-Approval" thread here. This way, we can give you a heads-up (if needed) on any issues you may need to address so that your Basic approval should be a breeze. It may help to add that you are also looking for EI/Centurion suggestions so that we can go over those as well. Also, once you get your Basic approval you are always more than welcome to PM any of us on the D.O. staff for any specific information or questions pertaining to the higher levels. I have a thread here which can help, and I look forward to seeing your submission for Expert Infantry!

Truly sorry to hear that, Leonardo, and hope you are much better! We are ready when you are, sir.