justjoseph63

If you haven't attached the cone yet, I would suggest adding a generous amount of E-6000 to the inside rim of the top as seen below, especially if you used CA (super) glue. The reason being is that CA can (and will) get brittle over time and the bond can fail, especially when the pack gets banged around during transport.

WOW! This is looking fantastic, Greg! I assume you will be taking your HWT to higher levels (wink wink, nudge nudge) after Basic approval, so don't forget to weather that bad-boy up!

Looking good, Jesus! I realize you are in the fitting phase, but as Glen mentioned the back plate needs to come up. The bottom should not overlap the top of the kidney, and you have plenty of room to raise it 2 or 3 cm. AWESOME to see that you used the "double snap" method on your strapping (you'll be glad that you took the extra time to do that, I promise)! I have that on all my armor sets and I swear by it. Keep up the great work and keep the photos coming!

One thing you have to keep in mind is that after you trim the tops and bottoms of any limb piece is that you will have to re-adjust the circumference (trim down the sides again). Otherwise, what fit perfectly before will now be too wide. Most folks leave some of the return edge on the tops of the forearms, but you can trim all of it off of the tops/bottoms of the biceps and all of it will need to be removed from the bottom of the wrist openings. How much you remove from the top of the forearm and bicep/top of the forearm is up to you and will not affect higher approvals (as long as the openings are not too large). I am not a fan of return edges in most places, as they were minimal at best in the films. I have a thread here that should answer a lot of your questions on this, as well as a few tutorials under my avatar below that may help as well. I highly suggest that you keep posting as many photos as you can, and always feel free to ask any and all questions you may have! When in doubt, post up here before cutting/gluing. Trust me. We are here to help every step of the way!

Looks like you figured out how to post images, Romain! As long as you are using imgur or another photo hosting service, you don't have to worry about overloading the thread. We LOVE photos, and lots of them! Posting them up on your thread is especially helpful when/if you have an issue, as it's MUCH easier to help you if we can see the details. Looking forward to following your build!

I think these (link here) would be your best bet, Keegan. The listing says "Free U.S. Shipping" and that's actually a really good price!

"I cut and glued in some wood supports for a more solid mounting points on the pack". Excellent idea! Another idea I used was to cut out the entire circular area. This served 2 purposes- It allowed me access to the interior to better secure some of the attachments with short drywall screws (including the side tube), and it allows the OII plate to sit nestled inside the rear of the pack so it doesn't make the pack sit too far out away from the armor. I lined the entire rear exterior with 1/8" thick black craft foam (EVA), which can be pressed into the circular opening and prevents the pack from scratching your armor.

I wish I had better news for you, but unfortunately the ears will have to be replaced for Stunt, sir. The Hero ear bars have 3 bumps, and the Stunt version has 4. There are also 3 screws in the top rounded section of the ears as opposed to 2. I would suggest getting in touch with your armorer to see if they can supply the correct ones if you want go for Stunt. Hero Stunt Hero Stunt You would also need to replace the canvas belt, as Hero holsters have 4 fasteners and Stunt has two and there can be no holes in the belt.

Always GREAT to see another HWT in progress! Looks like you are well set up for this, Greg, and I look forward to following your build! If I could offer a quick suggestion, it would be to securely glue the white PVC caps to the ends of the tube before cutting the rounded parts off. Using a shim to keep the tube/cap level will give you nice squared end, especially if you are using a chop (radial) saw.

To be honest, gluing a backing plate to the large ab-button plate, making ABS paste to fill the transitions and then sanding it down smooth will be quite a task, Mitch. Can it be done? Absolutely, but I would consider getting in touch with Walt about getting a new one. He is a great guy, a phenomenal armorer and would more than likely hook you up with a replacement. You don't need a large edge on them, but you will need some sort of edge for Centurion. P.S. NICE job on painting those buttons! Reference image One of Walt's showing edge intact

WOW, brother. Great job on those fixes from EI, and know that your hard work is appreciated! I must say that is without a doubt the best job on covering the gaps at the rear of the thigh bottoms that I have ever seen. Well done, Jonathan. Well done indeed!

I have to start by saying AWESOME job on removing those return edges! As I see it, the back plate needs to come down at least 2cm so that the tabs sit on your shoulders. Doing this would obviously require the kidney and butt plate to be lowered which would throw everything out of whack, so if you can get a back plate that is shorter that may be the answer.

Perfect, and nice job on removing those return edges!

Hi John, and THANKS for your submission! As Mario mentioned, one of us will be with ya' shortly, but can you post up one more photo while you wait? Even though it is not a requirement for EI, we would appreciate seeing a close up of the wrist openings as seen below. THANKS!!

Definitely. Teresa makes some amazing products!

Hi Joachim, and thank you for your submission for ANH Hero EI! After reviewing your photos, there are a few items that need some work before we can move you along, sir. Please note that as stated in the CRL Text descriptions are only one part of the guideline. GML’s and costumers must consider both text and pictures (CRL and Reference) when reviewing the costume. . As D.O.s this also applies when reviewing submissions for Expert Infantry as well as Centurion. Starting with your bucket- You have applied for ANH "Hero", and while the ear bars have the correct number of bumps (3), unfortunately the faceplate on your helmet is that of a "Stunt" and is ineligible for approval for Hero EI at this time. Allow me to explain: The Stunt version has one (sometimes 2) extra "divots" (recessed areas) on each side of the frown as seen in your photo (see red arrows), while the Hero versions clearly have only 3 ***. Can this be changed? Yes. For my own Hero helmet I modified the Anovos version by filling in those extra recessed areas with ABS paste. It was a LOT of work, I won't lie, but it can be done. ***This is thought to be because the 6 Hero versions were made of ABS weeks after the 50 original Stunt helmets were made from HDPE and that the molds had suffered damage. Reference images We are suggesting that the interior "nipple" areas on the rear of the inside of your Hovi-tips be painted white. Reference images Hero ears tend to be much thinner at the top than the Stunt type, so we are strongly suggesting that yours be trimmed down. (The bottoms could be taken in a bit as well). Reference images We are also asking that you re-paint your tears and traps. As seen in the reference images, the tears had 7 or 8 long thin lines as opposed to 5 short thick ones. Reference images The lines in the traps should be lengthened as well. Reference images As seen in the reference images, the "Han" snap needs to be replaced with the correct one. Reference image As listed in the CRL. for Level 2 the TD screws must be slotted (not Philips) and be painted black. V head screws are not permitted. Reference image We noticed a small anomaly on your chest plate. It may be the lighting or camera angle, but there appear to be bumps that look like nipples. If they do have these bumps they will need to be sanded down, as there are no screen references showing this feature. We realize that you have some work ahead of you, but you can do it and know that we are here to help, and if we can be of any assistance please don't hesitate to ask!

As far as I can tell it was mostly the Bapty versions (seen below) that had the counter sitting that low, but since it's not too far back or forward and is a great looking blaster I would have no issues passing it at Centurion level. (Hint hint, Cory)...

Hi Joachim! I assume you are submitting for EI (Expert Infantry), correct? If so, I will edit the title of your thread. Also, you are missing quite a few photos! Please check out this thread (link here) for a list of all you will need, and I look forward to seeing them!

WAY TO GO TRINA! Congratulations not only on your achievement, but for becoming a part of FISD history... both are something to be very proud of!

Congrats on your RS kit! Finding a "one stop shop" for all those items may be a bit difficult, so you may have to use several different sources. I would try Amazon for the undersuit. Just search "Men's black compression shirt/pants", but just make sure they don't have logos that will be visible when wearing your armor. For boots, 421s by Imperial Boots (link here) makes a GREAT product. They only make them in "waves" (like once a month) and the current on only runs until tomorrow (April 9th). They arrive pretty quickly, and having them on-hand will really help when fitting the lower leg armor. I would suggest ordering a pair that is one size larger than you normally wear as they run a bit small.

In the Gallery under Star Wars Story Reference, Jason. Here is a quick link right to it: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/28-r1-tk-reference/

Looking GREAT, Richard, and super-nice job on those return edges! Only 2 small suggestions right now (and you may just have not reached that point yet) but the hand guards and wrist openings could use a little "Dremel love". As per the CRLs for Level 3, all return edges need to be removed from the "hump" at the wrist opening. EASY! Keep it up, sir!

ONE SPOT LEFT! A hearty congrats to Max P. (TK 42199) for becoming the 499th Trooper to earn his Centurion badge and become one of the "Original 500"! WAY TO GO MAX! Who will #500 be?

Hi Max, and thank you for your application for ANH Stunt Centurion! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of CENTURION #499. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. To start out, we would like to say a big THANKS to both you and Justin for jumping on the requested fixes. They came out amazing (especially tapering those forearms) and you should be proud of the final look all that hard work gave to your armor... I know we certainly are! The only suggestion we have is that you might want to consider lowering your biceps and forearms a bit if possible. I know you are a taller trooper, but if this is possible it would decrease the gap between your wrist openings and hand guards. And that's it, brother... welcome to the ranks, and extra kudos for making it into the "Original 500"! WAY TO GO! Side note- When you chose your FISD screen name, did you have a plan to be Centurion # 499?

No need for that, brother.... AWESOME job on those fixes! (I will have your review posted up first thing tomorrow)!