justjoseph63

I would try using the corner of a soft cloth dipped in mineral spirits. BUT, if you do end up having to sand it I would use a super fine grit paper. If it leaves a light scratched looking area I wouldn't worry too much, as that area is not visible when wearing it and I wouldn't ding that for higher levels.

Exactly.

I would suggest using the GEL type super glue, John (with an accelerant if you have it). The regular stuff is pretty thin, and you don't want it seeping through the crack and dripping out the other side.

I was beginning to wonder, lol, but then I remembered that you have been busy with the pin run. Seeing the updated pics was well worth the wait, though... outstanding, brother.

Not to worry, I think many of us do this, lol. (I know I still do even after all these years). Excellent progress by the way, Garrett! Depending on how screen accurate you want to get, you may want to think about trimming the brow trim back a tad on the ends. Although the screen-used versions were a LOT farther back (I think due to the fact that the rubber shrank in the years between filming ANH and ESB) but I wouldn't go as far back as the reference images. ESB reference images

I think you have done a spectacular job on this, James! Since the ANH blaster is based on an actual Sterling, one item that really bothers me for EI is the grip. The grip is not based on a Sterling blaster but rather an Airsoft. Among other things, the Sterling grips were much more rounded on the sides and the overall shape is significantly different. S & T Sterling Unfortunately another item that would be a show-stopper for Level 3 is the power cylinders. While the size of the actual cylinders looks good, it's the spacing is what is throwing them off. Note in the reference images how close together they are. They are also missing the correct fuses in the center. The fuses aren't the biggest of deals by any means, but with your eye for detail and tenacity I honestly feel that you could whip something up that would look danged close. I realize that those details are not specifically listed in the CRL, but as stated in there we use screen used references as well as those listed in the CRL. Based on the amazing things you have done with this blaster so far, I have every faith that you can pull this off, sir. If I can be of any help, just PM me.

Now get some sleep, Centurion #502!

Hi Richard, and THANK YOU for your submission for ESB Centurion! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Centurion! On behalf of the DO team and myself, congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we discuss areas that could benefit from additional improvement. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. It's clear to see that you have taken great pride in building this set of armor (or armour as you say across the pond), and know that we certainly appreciate all the time and effort you spent on the updates! All that being said, nothing to see here, brother. Outstanding job, and welcome to the few, the proud, the Centurions! Side note: Now that you have reached the pinnacle, I honestly hope you will consider "paying it forward" and check in here on the boards when you have the chance. Lots of new troopers here who can use your advice (especially your mad painting skills)!

I know you are going for R1, James, but in my humble opinion the S & T leaves a lot to be desired for not only R1 but OT purposes as well. To be honest, I wouldn't pass it at EI for any costume as it is. Just a few quick observations... 1. T-tracks don't extend far back enough. 2. Wires from counter to power cylinders not accurate for any film used models. Those were only seen in promo shots. 3. Incorrect Hengstler for R1 4. Scope sits WAY too far back. 5. Scope style is not accurate for any E-11 used in the franchise. 6. For R1, the power cylinders/mounting bracket are OK, but for ANH it's too wide and center details are incorrect. 7. Hengstler is mounted in the wrong position. 8. Incorrect grip for OT approvals. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 The functioning folding stock is cool, but depending on the price it would involve a lot of work and more accurate replacement pieces than it's worth to get this blaster up to specs for approval in my opinion.

Looking SHARP. Shawn! You did a fantastic job on the requested fixes , but we need one last small one before we can get started, brother. You ABS belt needs to be raised about half an inch or so. I know you have snaps on the sides, but I would just use some heavy-duty white Velcro strips in the center to raise it a bit. Easy peasy.

Welcome to the FISD, Piers! I see you have some great advice so far, but to echo that, we are here to help every step of the way! You have a bit of research in front of you, and this site can be a bit overwhelming with all the info. here, but we are always available to assist in any way we can so feel free to ask any and all questions you need to. I have a few tutorials under my avatar (below) that may help as well.

Always here to help!

For Basic approval, the elastic may not be the biggest deal depending on your GML (the person who will be approving them), but the bottoms would not be acceptable, sad to say. As per the CRL for Basic 501st approval the must have a "flat sole with a short heel". I'm pretty sure they have them in your size, but the Classic 421s (link here) from Imperial Boots are a great option and are acceptable at all levels. A bit pricey, but VERY well built and will last for years. The thing with them is that they sell in "waves" (like once a month), but the next wave opens up on July 2nd. Shipping is actually pretty fast, but one thing I would advise is to order a half or full size up from what you normally wear, as they run a bit tight. This also leaves room to toss in a pair of Dr. Scholl's insoles for some additional comfort. One last note- It's best to have whatever boots you choose on hand when fitting the lower leg (calf) armor. Trust me on that one.

Don't forget... I get the feeling you are gonna' nail this!

WOW, Richard... just WOW! Outstanding job on those requested fixes so far, brother, and your updated ear-bar paint is truly spectacular! As soon as you get the remainder of the photos in we can move along. sir.

A better test will be when you go on your first troop. The average event can last an hour or more, but at cons you can be suited up for a lot longer. Here is an excerpt from my thread "Your first Troop...a Few Tips" (link here) that may help: 1. Before you leave- If you have not had the chance to wear your armor for any length of time, put it on (including your bucket) and wear it while walking around the house and maybe in your yard for a while. This will give you an idea of your range of vision, movement limitations, and let you know what you are in for. Walking up and down stairs will help. If you have any issues with any parts of your armor (pinching, etc.) we can help guide you through exactly how to remedy them.

First, WAY TO GO JACOB! Congrats on your approval, brother, and I'm glad you are heading for Centurion! I wouldn't take those mobility cuts any higher. Since the gaps are pretty small, my suggestion would be to add a thin strip of scrap ABS (or any thick white plastic) behind the seams and we can see how that looks.

Coming along nicely, sir! For the S-trim, I'm really surprised that AP didn't include that. If not, you can get it from Trooperbay (link here). As Mario mentioned, the biceps look like they will need to come up a bit, but you are on the right track! You have probably figured this out, but I would remove the sharp point from the top of the forearm(s). One less thing to poke into you! GREAT to see that you removed all of the return edges on the bicep bottom and forearm top, but it looks like yo still have a tiny bit left. (Sorry, just my OCD kicking in, lol). Keep up the great work!

First, CONGRATS on your 50at approval, Tim! I honestly don't see anything stopping you for applying for EI right now, sir. While you "hurry up and wait" for your debut troop, I have a few suggestions for the future, though.. Although the shoulder bell levels are spot-on, your left bicep seems to be strapped lower than your right one, throwing off the symmetry of both those and the forearms. Shortening the strapping between the shoulder bell and bicep on the left side about 1.5cm should take care of this. Although not a deal breaker at any level, I noticed that your posterior plate seems awfully close to the thigh tops. In the first photo the bottom is riding over the thigh, and in the second is is sitting under it. This may cause that area to "click" as you walk, when the overlapping plates rub together. If this doesn't bother you, no problem, but if so, you may want to remove a bit of the thigh tops for comfort. It's kind of a double-edged sword, though.. If you remove part of the thigh tops, it may cause the opening to be too large as the return edges would be gone and the rear seam may need to be reduced. BUT, not having those return edges will also not affect approval and is actually screen accurate. Reference images Again, way to go on that approval, and I look forward to seeing your submission for Expert Infantry soon, fellow Hero!

Welcome to the FISD, Jody! You have a bit of research in front of you, but anything and everything you will need can be found right here in the true home of shiny white armor! We are here to help every step of the way, so always feel free to ask any questions you may have... it's what we are here for!

I know great minds think alike, lol, but how do you always manage to stay one minute ahead of me, Glen?

Welcome, Steve! I have trooped in 98 degree (36 Celsius) with no major issues. Depending on the type of under suit you get, they will wick away excess moisture and help keep you cool. Another important thing to think about is installing small fans in your helmet... these definitely help! Keeping hydrated is a MUST. Good thinking on AM for your armor. I have trooped in mine for years with no issues (cracking or yellowing). As others have mentioned, we are here to help every step of the way, so always feel free to ask whatever you need to. Best of luck on your white armor journey!

I think the minimum is 5 posts here on the FISD for you to be able to post there. You are at 6, so you should be good to go!

Welcome to the TRUE home of shiny white armor, Crystal! While you wait, I would advise getting all your build supplies in order. That way, you can dive right in when BBB day arrives! I would also strongly suggest starting a build thread in the ANH Build Thread forum (link here). To echo what others have already mentioned, some big things to keep in mind are these: 1. Take......... your......... time. I can't stress that enough. Rushing leads to mistakes. Consider your build a marathon and not a sprint. 2. Stay organized. 3. Ask as many questions as you want to, no matter how small you may think they are. We are here to help! 4. Post up LOTS of photos. Doing this is especially important when you have an issue. 5. If you are (hopefully) aiming for Expert Infantry and Centurion levels (hint hint, lol), doing this is easier during your build rather than after, and is easier than you think! I have several tutorials under my signature below that will help, and know that we will be here for you every step of the way!