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Xus Kenobi

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About Xus Kenobi

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  • Birthday 03/18/1987

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    Madrid, Spain.

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  1. Moving on to the belt I marked everything using some tape just to make sure the measurements are correct before cutting. I took this diagram as reference, but I'm not sure about the edges: If you look at screen used suits, the button seems much closer to the edge, and my local garrison advised me to place the button 2mm from the edge which seems to fit the screen used suit in the reference pictures: I am not sure about the distance between the last box and the button that covers the snap on the sides, so let me guide you through my marking process: First of all, the total height was cut to about 90 mm, that is leaving about 3 mm from the edge of the drop boxes. Next, I marked 45mm from each edge and marked the middle of the belt. Next, I marked the edge of the last ammo box and then marked the border about 1,5 inches (39 mm). Once the edge was marked, I measured 37,5 mm from the middle to make the edge 75 mm to match the size of the canvas belt and then marked the 45º at the edges. That is the edge completely marked . Then, the buttons that cover the snap are 25 mm x 25 mm squares, so I marked 2mm from the edge and then 25mm, which leaves 10-12 mm to the ammo box (it's difficult to measure because of the curve from the thermoforming) Does this look OK? Should the button be centered at 3/4 inch from the edge? Or should I move everything towards the ammo box and leave about 5 mm instead of 10-12 mm? The middle was also marked by finding the middle to place the snap and then place the button in the middle between both ammo boxes. Overall I feel this layout is pretty good, so unless there is any major mistakes or measurements I am missing I think I'm ready for trimming!
  2. Some more work on the clips for the thermal detonator! Today I cut some 25 mm aluminum strip to the correct size and marked according to specs both the guides for the holes where the screws go and the lines where the curves start and finish. Next I drilled the holes for the screws and shaped the aluminum strip as nicely as I was able to in order for it to conform to the thermal detonator and keep it nice and straight at the belt. Once I had both clips, I tested them out to check everything lines up properly and everything falls into place: As you can see, the clips are fairly vertical so they should line up nicely with my belt and my back armor, therefore, the bumps on the control panel should be paralel to the ground when I place it on my belt (perhaps some minor adjustment will be needed) So with all the pieces cut out and properly fitted into place, I marked their position so I can place them in their exact place again and took everything appart so I could sand the edges and mask the tube in order to keep some plastic showing for gluing the cap ends and the control panel. I also drilled a hole in the middle of the masked area to release the air trapped inside and reduce the air pressure when I glue the end caps. Then, I primed the tube in black. I will leave it to dry overnight and tomorrow I will paint the tube in the correct grey colour and glue the pieces together. Regarding the thermal detonator screws, I have ones which are very close to the screen accurate ones, only a little more square. I will use a dremmel to round them a bit more on the head and paint them black, and they should be OK for screen-accuracy.
  3. Thanks for the tips and comments! Noted! Here you have an update of the work I've been doing lately on my armor! Since we had some guests at home and my workshop had to dissapear in order for it to become the guest room once again, I have been working on the smaller parts, such as the helmet and the thermal detonator. First of all, my helmet was partially done, and most of the outer work was finished (hand paint, assembly...) but the inside was a bit rough around the edges, so I took it apart, took off the lenses and mesh which were stuck with duck tape and started working on it. A big shoutout to @Ales and the amazing tutorial on building the ATA helmet which I followed really close. A very clean and precise build! First of all, I reinforced the area where the hovic mics go with some two part epoxy putty, since the plastic was pulled quite thin in the area. I just placed a nice blob of putty on each side and smoothed it out with my fingers. Once dry, I sanded the connection to the plastic until the blend between both materials was perfect and drilled the holes for the screw on the hovic mics to come through. Before: After: While the epoxy was curing, I cleaned the inside of the helmet using a piece of paper and some alcohol and then wahed it with some warm water and dish soap to remove any dirt and grease. Once dry, I masked away the dome and the face plate of the helmet, including the ear holes, the frown and the eyes and airbrushed some matte black paint in thin layers on the inside of the helmet. Since I was going to get my airbrush out to paint the inside of the helmet, while masking I also cut out some new mesh for the frown. I use window screen mesh and I like it to be quite dense, so I cut two pieces, one with the mesh in a vertical-horizontal direction and one in a diagonal position. Since my screen is grey, I gave it a coat of black paint with the airbrush at the same time as I was painting the helmet. Once everything was nicely painted and the coverage was good enough, I let it dry overnight before removing the masking and then let it sit in a well ventilated area for a couple of days so the smell of the paint would go away. After two or three days it is completely odourless and the finish is great! Once everything was dry, I used some electrical tape to join the two pieces of mesh together and then stick it to the helmet. I also installed the hovi mics. It looks really nice from the outside! and with the balaclava and the black paint you can't see anything of the inside of the helmet. On the outside of the helmet, I took a moment to touch up the frown as @justjoseph63 suggested since I had a straight edge at the end instead of a pointy edge: So the helmet is well on its way to completion! The only tasks remaining are: Installing lenses (I want to install some screws in order to make them easily removable), cutting the screws to an appropriate length so they don't poke my face and placing the rubber trim at the bottom! On the other hand, I went ahead and marked the parts for my thermal detonator following the reference material available in the FISD. There are several contradictions between different reference material, so I had to tweak some measurements a bit and decide which ones to follow. I assume this is because for the movies, they rushed to finish the costumes and this resulted in a noticeable variation in the measurements from suit to suit, but here is my take on the detonator: I took these images as my main reference material: As you can see, there is a 6.55 mm difference between both reference images regarding the length of the control panel. So following the first image (since it's easier to trim a little more if needed), this was my first layout: After marking this, I checked with my local garrison and they suggested I went with 20mm for the end caps instead of 19 mm, according to some reference pictures of the RS suit: This was the final product: So I went with a total length of 184 mm, using 20 mm for the end caps and 121 mm for the control panel. This makes the gap between the control panel and the end caps about 11,5 mm which is a little smaller than the reference picture, but this is due to the extra 2mm I added with the end caps and the difference between the 121 mm or 114,45 mm length of the control panel (depending on which reference material you use). In conclusion, I think it looks great and the difference between the different reference material is only about 6 mm at most. Dividing this into two gaps between control panel and end caps, the difference is only 3mm on each side which I believe is a reasonable tolerance. I mean, nobody is going to notice a 3mm difference and it certainly does not bother me, since both the 121 mm and the 114,45 mm are actually screen accurate. In any case, this will be glued with E-6000 so I can always come back and trim a little more if needed! Now on to sanding the edges, painting the tube grey and gluing everything in place!
  4. And since the moment to start assembling all of this is coming near, I went ahead and test fitted the armour on again to make sure everything aligns properly! First, I got the chest overlapping the ab plate the bare minimum to cover the vertical line coming out of the button plate on the ab. This way, both pieces accomodate properly at the crotch and the neck/shoulders. The ab plate and kidney align very nicely at the sides, the split rivet holes also align properly and good news: I won't need any extensions! Once the canvas belt is in place everything will square up nicely. As we saw a couple posts back, since I am tall, the back plate is going to take some extra care to place correctly, so I will place tha back as the last piece to make sure it looks good in relationship with the rest of the torso! Last but not least, I tried the arm armour on and I think it's starting to look like something! So right now I am gluing more snaps into place to start connecting all the pieces together! Looking good right? I0m really happy seeing it all come together!
  5. OK so I've been working on my armour so here are the last advances I've made! First of all, I had a look at some reference pictures to place the male snaps and rivet on the crotch area, I measured on a picture of a suit which kind of resembled the shape o f my armour: So I marked everything and placed the rivet and the snaps. The rivet is brass and the snaps are silver: Rivet in the crotch area of the ab plate: Snaps on the crotch area of the butt plate: I also reinforced the area around the snaps on the left side on the ab plate and the kidney plate and glued it into place: Next I placed the snap on the top right corner of the ab plate: While everything was drying on the ab plate, I cracked on with the chest and back plates and placed the snaps where the shoulder elastics will connect: And I also added the elastic around the shoulder bells to brace the biceps: So It's been a productive couple of build sessions!
  6. Noted! Looks like the torso really needs to be fitted before gluing anything into place! I was hoping I could glue the snaps on the parts and then just fit it using the connection elastics! In that case, I will try to fit everything before connecting the pieces together on the torso! Here are some update pics on the split rivets and the arms: First of all here are the split rivets in place, equally spaced and perfectly lined up! I was quite afraid of this step but it seems to have turned out great! On the inside, they allow enough space for the connections to be placed in between the rivets: And since the split rivets are a little long (8mm head and 13 mm long) I figured out I could build myself some supports in order to reinforce the area around the split rivet and give it some proper support to avoid it dancing around. I just cut some 20x20mm squares of ABS from my scrap pieces and glued them together, then marked the center and drilled a guide hole before drilling the actual hole for the split rivet. These supports will be glued in place and once glued, I will do the final installation of the split rivets. On the other hand, I went ahead and prepared all the female connections for the arms, and mocked the layout of each one in order to make sure every connection point is properly placed: The yellow connection would join the shoulder bell to the shoulder strap joining the chest and back plates. The orange connection would be for the biceps elastics. I decided to go with snaps for these so they can be repaired or substituted easily if they lose their elasticity or they break at some point. The green connection joins the shoulder bells and the biceps on the outside. I know this one didn't exist in the original suits, but it seems safer to have it. On the inside, I will use the "Han hooks" once everything is in place. The blue connections would join the forearm and the biceps on the inside. So it seems as simple as gluing all the female snaps into place and then fit the armour to my arms using the length of the elastic connections! As you can see, I am planning on gluing the female snaps a little distance from the edges. How is everything looking on the arms?
  7. Since I need to pick up some split rivets tomorrow, I figured out I could continue working on the connection between the kidney plate and the butt plate since they are more or less independent from the rest of the armour. First of all I placed the male snaps on the crotch. They are marked 20mm appart from each other but I didn't find any reference for the distance to the edge (marked in pink). Looking at reference pics It seems as if it should be about the same 20mm as the snaps, but that's just by eyeballing the position on a picture. Any specific measurements to consider here? Next I lined up both pieces using the bump in the middle as a reference and keeping both pieces flush, then placed the middle connection and marked its position. Does the distance from the edge to the first male snap on the crotch look good on this picture? From there, it is just a matter of placing at equal distances the side connections. This will be done onche the middle is glued in place. Here is a rough mock up of how it will look. I feel quite confident to glue the middle connection and place the male snaps on the crotch area! Should I go ahead? Any last minute corrections?
  8. Thanks for pointing out the split rivets! I had another look at the CRL and other reference material and I tweaked my setup a little: I undertand the three split rivets were what actually held the pieces together on the original suits, however the CRL states they don't need to be functional. I feel the split rivets holding the pieces together would undergo a fair ammount of stress, thus making it easy for the plastic armour to actually break at these points (I imagine that is why the CRL says they don't need to be functional) So my previous pictures should be OK, however I would not be able to access the rivets once everything is glued into place. So I took a different approach looking at the snap diagram found on one of my previous posts. After marking the position of the split rivets 10mm from the edge, 15mm from the top and the bottom and 60mm from each other so they are equally spaced and doing the same on the other part of the armour, it seems like those 60mm in between rivets are perfect to hold the elastic connections! So it seems like this layout should work perfectly, making the split rivets merely decorative and allowing me to access the split rivets in the future if needed while the actual connection and support goes to the two elastics in between the rivets. On the image I placed everything on the outside but it will go on the inside so that only the three split rivets are visible:
  9. Hi guys! Been a bit away from my armour for a while but I got back to it this weekend! I decided to start with one of the sides connecting the ab-plate and the kidney plate (the one you usually never unfasten) so I got my tools out and followed @justjoseph63's tutorial for SNAPS. I prepared the bits with the female snap which will be glued to the armour and then the connections with the male snap. It seems pretty straigth forward, but I just wanted to check with you guys before gluing them into place using E-6000! My idea is to fit the first connection at the very top making sure the ab plate and the kidney plate align perfectly at the top just as shown in the diagram I posted a while back. Then, mark the little square that needs to be cut on the corner of the kidney plate and glue the bottom snap right above it (the kidney square will not be cut until the very end just in case I need adjusting anything). Last, I would glue the middle connection half way between the other two pieces. The elastic pieces that will join both parts have been cut to the exact distance to make sure they keep the ab-plate and the kidney plate perfectly aligned with only a visible line dividing them as stated on the CRL. Does it look OK? Is there anything I might be missing and you guys can point out? Ahould the split rivets be placed before gluing the snaps into place? Thanks!
  10. My tube of E6000 just arrived in the mail (I had to order it online since they don't sell it in my country) so I will be back on to my build soon! Yay! I can confirm... it stinks!
  11. Well my fellow troopers! I will be taking a little break to spend the Christmas holiday with my wife, friends and family, so I will not be working on my armour for a couple of weeks! Just dropped by to wish you all a happy holiday and send my best wishes for the new year to all of you amazing trooper friends! 2019 has been a little rough for me, but getting back into costuming and finding such a welcoming and supporting community has been a great way to take a little care of myself, embrace the things that I love doing and a great reminder of all the good people around me! Best wishes!
  12. Thanks for the pointers @justjoseph63! The back plate was misplaced because I thought it needed to overlap the kidney when I took the picture. Easy to fix since it's only a matter of fitting it into place using the shoulder straps! Regarding the return edges, not to worry! that picture was taken some time ago and the forearms were not glued yet. After that, I removed the return edges, sized and glued properly, so they should be OK! We'll get to talk about them once the torso is done! So hopefully no bad news at all for now!
  13. All right! So while I get to test the nylon snap method and wait for my E-6000 to arrive, I went ahead and planned out the position of the snaps on the armour according to the original suits and test fitted the armour on to get a feel of the alignment of the different pieces. First of all, this is a rough mock up of the layout I'm gonna be using: Shoulder straps at the top and then three straps holding the chest and ab plate and the same on the back holding the back to the kidney and the kidney to the butt. I went with three straps since the original suits had three supports and each snap will have two snaps. Next, some pictures of the first time I've put this junk on! First of all, the front: Regarding the front, since I am around 6 feet tall (1.83m) the chest is barely overlaping the ab piece in the middle. This is the only way I can properly "accomodate" the crotch area and yet keep the chest and shoulder at an appropriate height, but it is on the limit. I hope the elastic on the crotch and soulders allow for some extra movement of the whole thing. Next, the back: The back is slightly overlapping the kidney plate, I will have to make sure it doesn't overlap for centurion level. The butt should be sitting flush with the kidney plate. Seems pretty easy to do. When trying to align the kidney plate with the ab plate, the back piece was pulled down a little. It looks like it should sit a little higher in order to accomodate my back and my shoulders better. However, I fear it will leave a considerable gap between both parts... would that be an issue? The butt plate seems OK, once the straps are placed it will get a better shape where it meets the kidney plate, specially on the sides. Now on to the sides: First of all, note the back plate sitting a little low. I believe it should accomodate my back properly and not overlap the kidney plate according to the CRL. Next, it looks like the kidney will also need a little bending and probably a little extension on either side in order to meet the ab plate. I think the rivets and straps will do the job, but I will need the extensions to fill the gap since on the pictures, the kidney is quite tight. The butt plate became loose on the last pic, so it's just a matter of properly attatching it to the kidney. So after this first test, I think my height is going to make me work a little harder than expected since this armour is made for smaller people. In order to get everything properly sized and placed I think I should proceed in this way: 1. Fit the ab plate and the kidney plate so it accomodates the crotch area properly. This will be the "base point" for placing the rest of the armour. 2. Make sure the kidney plate and the ab plate align properly on the sides and join with a barely visible seem as stated on the centurion CRL. 3. Fit the butt to the kidney plate. Install snaps and rivet on the butt and crotch area with the appropriate elastic. 4. Fit the chest so it overlaps slightly the ab plate and use the white elastics for the soulders. 5. Fit the back to my back and try to get a good connection with the chest through the shoulder straps and try to have a minimum gap with the kidney plate, without overlaping 6. Once everything fits properly, place the ribbed shoulder pieces and cut depending on the fit. I think by following these steps I will get a good fit around the legs and thighs in order to make movement comfortable, and then fit the chest area which will be moving a little less. ¿Any comments or suggestions? ¿Any build threads for bigger troopers? Remember I'm 6 feet tall (1.83 m) and around 193 pounds (87.5 kg) The idea is to achieve something similar to image A or B if I need extensions on the kidney plate: On this shot you can see the gap between the back and the kidney plate:
  14. Thanks for all your input! I'll take everything into account! By the way... How can you resist trying the armour on as soon as it starts looking slightly finished??
  15. Thanks @justjoseph63! I was quite sold on ABS since most of the troopers I've met use this method, but I will try the nylon alternative and if I can pull off a nice result I will probably use it! Just two more questions: 1. I assume the colour of the nylon stuck to the armour is irrelevant since it won't be seen right? I think white nylon would look better glued to the armour and then use appropriate colour nylon for connections. 2. After your comments on elastic straps eventually stretching excessively, would it be OK to use Nylon on ALL connections? It seems like this would keep the whole armour exactly the same troop after troop (Unless the CRL for centurion status specifically asks for elastic). In any case, I could always change nylon straps for elastic ones if need be.
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