justjoseph63

Hi Wayne, and thanks for you submission for EI! Overall a fantastic build, brother, but there are a couple of items we need you to jump on before we can move you along and get that EI badge under your name . The wire mesh size in your Hovi tips is spot-on, but as per the CRL for ANH Stunt Level 2 the "...rim of the mic and inside are white or painted white". It should be a pretty quick job to pop the screens out, hit the inside with some white paint, pop em' back in and touch up the rims a bit. As noted in the requirements for Level 2, the "...gap between the abdomen and kidney is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide".*** Depending on how snug it fits at present, you may be able to get away with just tightening up the connections. Otherwise, it will be necessary to add shims to the sides. This is not as difficult as you may think, but it does take some effort. We have several great threads on this, and we are here to help in whatever way you need. You obviously have some mad build skills, so this should be pretty straightforward and would give you a much better screen accurate look! ***Note that for Centurion there is ideally no gap in that area.

If you have a pair of tin-snips, I have a spare piece (2.5 x 8) of brand new green lens material (still has the protective plastic on both sides) that you can have for free... I'll even pay postage. All you have to do is cut it to shape. PM me if interested!

Looking sharp, Wayne, but we need a few extra photos, sir. Please check this link that has all the examples so that we can get cracking. Thanks!

Thanks for your submission, Wayne! One of us will be with you shortly, sir!

I ordered heavy-duty nylon upholstery thread to use on my current ESB build as I figure it will hold up well. It's arriving tomorrow, and if you don't mind waiting a week or so if you like I can send you a couple of meters (no charge), just PM me with your shipping info.

To answer your question, yes, the calves just sit on the tops of the boots.. no strapping involved. What you have now is looking GREAT. The only thing left to do is even out/contour the fronts so that there are no points and you are golden. Nice work, Matt! Perfect!

One thing I would suggest is that you use a rear cover strip on the insides of the fronts, Matt. The reason being is because that seam gets a lot of wear and tear from being bent repeatedly when opening up the rear seam to put them on. It doesn't have to look good (no one sees it anyway) and it will reinforce the front cover strips.

Looking fantastic, Joe, and that is one awesome paint job on your bucket! With the amount of details you are nailing on this build, I honestly hope to see you apply for Expert Infantry level (and then Centurion) after you get your Basic approval. If that is indeed your eventual goal (hint hint) you might want to trim out the "hump" area at the wrist opening on the forearms a bit more with a file (should take you all of 5 minutes). This is not only screen accurate, it is a requirement for Level 3. Keep up the great work, keep posting those photos and always ask for advice if you have any doubts before cutting or gluing. Trust me on that one..

100% correct, and fantastic advice brother. Not sure why that line: AM v1 chest plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version. is still in the CRLs for all OT Centurion requirements, and to be honest and it should be removed. Yes, AM had some issues with those pieces a long time ago, but they updated their molds about 6 years ago and both chest and back are approvable at all levels as you mentioned. Side note- I'm working on an ESB build right now using AM.

It does look really tight against your neck, and you may end up having to trim it. Again, it may be the photo, but it looks like the return edge may be the culprit. If you do end up having to trim it, here are a few tips: 1. Trim in increments... just until it's comfortable. Once it's gone, it's gone. 2. If you have to remove all the return edge, be sure to glue in a one piece shim right behind it (gray area in the second pic). Otherwise you may develop cracks. I doesn't have to be thick, and you can use ABS scraps or even a white plastic "For Sale" type sign. It doesn't have to be pretty, as so one sees the inside. There is an example here that shows another method for someone who had a cracking issue. Remember that "ideally" the front bottom of the helmet will cover the neck opening (as seen below) and the neck seal will provide some amount of padding, but in the end it's important to be comfortable! I have a tutorial here on return edges that may come in handy.

I think I see what may be happening here. The reason you probably are having difficulty bending the shoulder bridges is because of the return edges that are still present. Bending of any sort is next to impossible when you still have the return edges intact. It may be the photo angle, but it looks like you still have quite a bit on the tops, which looks to have an angle for some reason. As seen in the reference image, return edges were pretty much non existent in those areas, and removing them would not only allow you to effectively bend them, but would actually be more screen accurate. Reference image Note the difference in the angle

Once you get the rough areas on the ridges sanded down, I don't see any issues holding you back from any level, James. SUPER nice job on these, and all that extra work is definitely paying off!

Hi Kris! I have never personally heard of anyone making the buttons functional, but I suppose it could be done. The amount of work would be staggering, though, and you would need a speaker system. You mentioned putting it in the TD (thermal detonator) but that would require having an opening of some sort for the sound, and having that would more than likely prohibit Basic 501st approval for your armor. Many of us use an Aker amp/speaker system to assist with talking and maybe it could be rigged into that somehow, but more research would be needed. I will echo what Steve (starsaber25) mentioned about AM armor. My HWT and Stunt armor are from Dave, and I have 50+ troops under my belt with no issues. Great customer service as well!

Good call on that. I just noticed they have quite a few bad reviews on their Etsy page because of slow shipping/no shipping/no communication. What a shame.

I think one strap with 4 rivets would do just fine, but due to the size of the rivet heads you may have to offset them a bit. Hint: When using rivets, always use a tight fitting washer around the upper part, especially when working with leather or nylon.

How are you planning on doing that, Greg? Some folks attach it to the pauldron, but when I did that I found that the weight kept pulling the pauldon down in the front. Instead, I now attach it to the left shoulder strap. You can rivet a strap to the rear of the pouch like you did for the side ones (but horizontally), add (sew it on if you can) a small strap to the left shoulder strap as seen below. If you do this, be sure to add 2 snaps. Trust me. It's a little extra work to do it this way, but I have had no issues and it's easy to attach/remove.

Hello, Troopers! On behalf of the Command staff I am proud to announce that we have a new member of the team! Chemi (TK 30173) from the Spanish Garrison will be moving from his position of Imperial Attache to Deputy Deployment Officer. As a Centurion level TK (and one heck of a nice guy) he will be working with Mario and I and using his TK expertise to approve costumes at the higher levels. I'm sure he will be a great addition to the Staff, so please join me in welcoming him to his new rank! Way to go, Chemi, and I look forward to working with you, mi hermano!

Way to go, Devin!

Looks like you are set to go, Thomas! Take your time, ask lots of questions, and be sure to post up lots of photos (especially if you have an issue). We are here to help every step of the way!

Someone needs to build submit a set of the armor first and get it 501st approved, but I'm not sure which Detachment the costume would actually be assigned to (it could theoretically go to the MEPD). I'm sure the pack would be required for Basic approval, and replicating that would take a lot of work. I'd sure like to see one, though!

Welcome back to the boards, Dax! If you have any questions (especially before cutting or gluing) just ask.

As far as I can tell, the positioning of the top one looks pretty consistent.. placed just behind the ridge at the front. Screen caps Mine For the other two, we only have a single reference photo of each but they are clear enough to show the approximate position. Screen caps Mine

It may be the angle of the photo, but it appears that the bottom is not lined up evenly. If so, I would consider raising it unless you will be putting in mobility cuts. Mobility cuts

Looking SHARP, Devin.... you should have no issues getting Basic approval. Once you get your blaster, I hope to see this set of AM armor submitted for Expert Infantry level!