justjoseph63

I would go for the new shins either way. Based on how high they are sitting on your boots, it looks as if you may have the slight problem of them sliding underneath the fronts/backs. Having longer ones where you can have wider bottoms would help the overall look considerably as well as prevent that from happening. Fantastic job on that rebuild!!

You will definitely not need a heat gun for that, John. As a matter of fact, you can (and I highly suggest it) eliminate the entire return edge on the top of the thighs, front, back and especially inside (otherwise it can cause chafing in that area. This is 100% screen accurate, and I have a photo of some screen used thighs below. You can also remove all the return edge on the tops of the biceps. They are hidden by the shoulder bells and not seen anyway. As for the back of the thigh, you can simply bend it into place. (Seriously). ABS is flexible enough to do this, and it should stay with no problem. If you have an overlap, just (carefully) trim the excess, but make sure there is no gap or at least a VERY minimal one. (Photo 2)

ATA is Affordable Troop Armor, ([email protected]) and WTF is Walt's Trooper Factory. You can PM him here on the FISD https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/profile/16134-walt/ Hang in there, Kevin!!!

My pleasure, sir!

Is this the one you mean? http://www.tridon.com.au/products/Toledo/19/327664/containers-and-funnels/409947/oil-drain-pans/428369/305090 you would have to do some adjustments, like remove the center tuba at the top, but the dimensions look about right. This link may help as well for other dimensions: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40081-tip-note-on-hwt-pack-specs/ Note that all sizes are approximate, as there are no "canon" references. As long as the finished product is close in appearance to the one in the bottom part of the HWT CRL, allowances can be made. Best of luck on your HWT journey, and feel free to PM me if I can help.

To be brutally honest, you may want to replace those forearms. The amount of work you are looking at is a lot more than you realize, and I can see a few potential problems arising. The main one is that the wrist openings look way too large. You should be able to fit two or three fingers in the opening while wearing them, but no more. They should have a tapered look at the wrist end, and it looks a bit flared as it is now. BUT... please don't be discouraged! With my first set of armor I had to replace several pieces for approval. As you have surely realized, becoming a TK is not the most inexpensive thing in the world, but I assure you that you will eventually have a great set of armor that you can be proud to wear! My advice at this point would be to contact ATA for a new set of forearms (the color of the ABS matches pretty close to Anovos) and start following Tony's (ukswrath) Anovos build thread here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/ We are here to help, Kevin, just don't let this little setback dishearten you, and please feel free to ask for any advice you may need.

Can I ask which pieces and which areas you need the heat gun on, John? (Photos would be great)! The reason being is that heat guns can reach temperatures of 1200 degrees, and unless you have experience using one or LOTS of large ABS scraps to practice on you can ruin a piece of armor in less than 10 seconds. (Been there, done that). Many areas can be fixed with a hot water bath (which is much more controllable_ and that may be the case for your needs. Keep us informed, and like I mentioned, pics would be a huge help.

The part about the belt covering the gap actually bewilders me. I searched through hundreds of screen caps from the Gallery, and out of all those I found only 2 that had that gap covered. The butt/kidney connection on your armor is among the best I have seen. I will let Tony or Andrew comment on this.

EI and Centurion levels are designed for screen accuracy. Nomex gloves are permitted for basic approval, but if you (hopefully) wish to go to higher levels (EI and Centurion) you will be be required to have the rubber ones. Many Troopers use the rubber ones all the time, but some switch to the Nomex for comfort after level 3 approval. Hand guards can be ABS for basic and level 2 approval, but must be flexible, like latex or silicone for Centurion.

Fantastic news, and QUICK!

I have a strange question for you, Ron.... are you planning on going for the higher levels (Expert Infantry and Centurion) once you get approved?

A gray PVC pipe will work just dandy, Ron. As long as the printing on it does not show. If it does, you can always sand it down (important) and spray paint it. Brien supplied you a link to Tony's (ukswrath) sales thread for the clips/screws. They are beautifully made and 100% accurate.

Once you get approved, don't forget to apply for Legion Access here at the FISD, Matt (easy to do)! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/ Once your L.A. approval comes through, with the great job you did on that build I hope you will be applying for EI next, (and then Centurion). This info. may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/

REALLY nice fixes on all those suggested in your EI thread, Dave... you've definitely put a lot of work into it! The only tiny thing I could suggest is to grab a Dremel and make sure 100% of the return edge is removed the the "bump" sections of the wrist ends (as seen in the photo below). A 30 second fix and they will be perfect.

As Glen mentioned, the corners can be rounded a bit, but don't go overboard. A little fine grit sandpaper will round them off enough to keep sharp ones (especially on the wrists/biceps back of the thighs) from snagging your undersuit. Other places are up to you. Below is an example on a screen used thigh showing "rounded" corners.

Done! PP transaction ID 49R06149AS920154H

You are very welcome, Jeff! All of them should be flat at the ends. The exception can be on the tops of the thighs, where they can conform to the contour. Below is a set of screen used thighs so you can see what I mean.

Your best bet for cutting cover strips is to have the following: 2 clamps a metal straight edge at least as long as the longest cover strip you are cutting a SHARP razor knife Once you are sure you have a straight edge on one side, measure the width you need... i.e. 15 mm, 20mm, etc. Clamp the straight edge firmly in place on top of the ABS using a hard surface (like a table). CAREFULLY and SLOWLY run the knife along the cut line, pressing straight down. Repeat this step several times in a row, making the cut a little deeper each time. After you have cut about half way through the thickness of the ABS, you should be able to bend and snap it off along the cut line. Note: Be sure to do this on an old table or workbench, as it will get scratched.

They should be perfectly straight.

As mentioned, you should re-do the frown for better screen accuracy. Here is a link that should help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/36-helmet-frown-a-new-hope-stunt/

RS armor is arguably the most accurate out there, and are pretty much Centurion ready right out of the box when using the full commision option. You will need to pass basic 501st approval first, though and then EI before submitting for Centurion, but that should be a breeze. I have seen a few occasions when there has been a small problem with the suit fitting correctly, but their customer service is outstanding and they worked quickly to rectify it.

Anovos helmets are actually very accurate for the most part, as is the armor. BUT... the ABS tends to be a little thin in places and should be reinforced. If you could post up some detailed photos of the helmet we can better assist you in making the determination as to whether the helmet has any problems.

Outstanding job on that build, Matthew! Basic approval looks as if it is in the bag, sir, and great to hear that you will be aiming for EI and Centurion!

Looking good so far, Anthony! Please take a moment to look over the required photo/information list here, https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43831-tk-pre-approval-program-overview/ and we will be better able to help you. If you are having trouble posting photos, let me know via PM. Thanks!!

Hopefully you will be posting a build thread for these, Chris!