justjoseph63

You are always more than welcome (and encouraged) to participate in discussions here at the FISD, A.J.! The reasoning behind the angled ears suggestion is that we see more than a few submissions for higher approvals where the ears are almost vertical instead of being slightly angled, or the top (round) part of the ear is not centered with the back of the trap. Below is a photo of a Hero bucket that better illustrates what I mean. The screws are not perfectly aligned (but are close) and have the "ideal" angle. We realize that there were inconsistencies in many of the troopers in the OT, but for the most part the majority were very similar. If those aiming for Centurion are aware of the "standards" before or during their build, it will save them having to re-adjust many parts afterward if they are aiming for higher levels.

Those should be fine, Mark. Many of us use gloves other than rubber for outdoor trooping in warm weather (unless it is a canon event).

Sorry, I forgot to clarify that, Dave. Ideally, the scope rail should extend all the way back and connect to the top of the rear sight, BUT... I see that the scope, rail and mount appear to be one piece so this would be difficult (and not really necessary) to do. This is the way most were done, however, there are exceptions that were made just as yours is as seen in the screen cap at the far right below. I'd say you are good to go!

The suggestion I made for the ear angle was indeed for Centurion level, "... I am proposing the following changes to the CRLs for ANH Stunt and ANH Hero for level 3. " I suggested this so that those in the build process would have more of a guideline to work from during a build, rather than have to try to fix it afterward. Much better!

Roger that, which I why I used the terms "closely" and "approximately", and these were only meant for L3. These were just a few of the items that are commonly seen in submissions, and instead of asking troopers to change them after I thought it would be easier to give them a better idea of something to strive for beforehand. Points well taken, though!

Some more screen used Hero buckets:

In order to eliminate any ambiguity and make things clearer for those headed for Centurion, I am proposing the following changes to the CRLs for ANH Stunt and ANH Hero for level 3. I realize that there were small variations in the films, but I believe these follow the general overall look. 1. Ears shall be tilted back at an angle to where the screws align closely with the rear angle of the trap located above the rear of the brow. 2. Tube stripes are positioned no more than approximately 7/16ths (1 cm) from the cheek, (a standard pencil width). 3. Top section of posterior armor shall be in line with the bottom portion of the kidney plate. 4. Posterior snaps/cod rivet shall not be painted. 5. Minimal (or no) gap is permitted between the top of the shoulder bell and the shoulder bridge. 6. All abdomen buttons are integrated and painted directly on the armor. No separate/added buttons are permitted. 7. D-ring on end cap shall be of a similar shape/size to the original Sterling type. 8. 3D printed weapons must be free of noticeable print lines.

Anovos makes a decent, screen accurate set of armor no doubt. A bit overpriced in my opinion, and the ABS is a bit thinner than most, but one of my kits is from them and no major problems. BUT... Their customer service is absolutely disgraceful. There have been cases of people waiting over a year, after being promised a month or so. They were removed from our "vetted seller" list for this reason. There are many more armorers who's products are just as good (if not better) and have incredible service/communication. Many of them for a price that is less expensive.

Great job getting that Anovos armor to fit your frame so well, Garry! A few small issues to work on for levels 2 and 3 (which I hope you will be aiming for), but looks like a shoe-in for basic. Keep us informed of your status!

I keep CA glue and zip-kicker in the emergency repair box in my armor bin. Great to hear that you are using E-6000 for your builds, though! If CA glue gets on your armor it is a royal pain to remove it, and involves a lot of sanding/polishing. If you spill E-6000 on your armor or it seeps out from between the connections it is super easy to remove. CA glue can also become brittle over time, causing connections to fail.

As mentioned, Michael, AM is a top quality set of armor. It can fit troopers of larger sizes, but can also be cut down as needed. I am 5'10-155 lbs and mine fits perfectly.

Way to go Dave! The next thing to do at this point is to apply for Legion access here at the FISD: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/?

Hey Aaron. below is a guide that will help show the placement. If you are willing to move them for Centurion, I will send you a new set, no charge, just PM me. Note that on the diagram the measurements are from the center of the rivet.

Either are fine and do the same thing. Can I ask what you are using it for?

You are doing exactly what I recommend to all builders by asking questions and posting photos. If I could make a small suggestion, it would be to have all of them in one thread, i.e. "Shinyarmour1's ANH-S Build Thread". ** It will help us keep track of your progress (so you can show off your build) and you will get many more responses if they are all in one area. It also helps others who may have similar issues. Great to see that you are obviously a detail oriented person, and if you keep this up level of quality I can definitely see a Centurion badge in your future! Keep the questions and photos coming, and I look forward to watching your progress! ** If you do decide to start a build thread, we can transfer all of your posts there if you like, just contact myself or another Staff member.

Thanks for the photos! If it were me, instead of removing anything from the bottom of the helmet I would move the face plate forward. Not a ton, mind you, but 1/2 an inch or so on each side would hopefully open up the bottom enough to get your head in, Also remember that a lot of the ear will be trimmed, so take that into account when lining it up

He is now recasting Jimmioroquai's armor as well.

PM sent

I have a few jackets but my favorite is this one:

Looking great so far, Brendan! Could you do us a favor and post up a complete side view of the helmet? The opening should be a bit larger which would give you the room to put it on,, but before breaking out the Dremel it looks as if you may have some wiggle room to open up the bottom a bit more (photo 1). This would mean removing the rivets, but could solve your problem without the cost of reconstructive surgery, lol. Also, at this point thinking about ear placement is key. Seeing a side view would help determine if the ears will be in the correct position, which should be at an angle and not vertical. As seen in the reference image below, the screws should line up with the angle of the rear trap. How much overlap on the sides do you currently have? Photo 1

The quality of the paint job you have so far is absolutely incredible! I would, however suggest making the trap a bit bigger to fill the space. The tube stripes should be about 7/16ths of an inch away from the cheek. and although the CRL states that the number should be between 9 and 16, what I have outlined below should do the trick. You don't want them too close to the ear. Hint: When using the tube stripe templates, after pressing them down firmly, hit them with a this coat of white first. This will seal the edges and prevent the blue from bleeding around the edges. Do not leave the template on too long after drying, as it can peel up the edges of the stripes. Speaking of ears, try your best to line up the screws with the back angle of the upper trap as seen in the reference image below.

One step closer, James! As mentioned, the T-tracks will need to be longer to extend to the rear holes as seen below. This diagram is from the E-11 Blaster Reference guide located here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/ Not sure what kind of budget you are on, but the only place I know of right off hand to get the new ones is here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Star-Wars-T-Track-T-Profile-Kit-Stormtrooper-E11-Blaster-With-HiBond-Tape/223040300675?hash=item33ee3ce683:m:mGEmA54iNxtb695LwmQuCJg:rk:2:pf:0 If there is another source perhaps someone could weigh in with it. Below is another detail from the Blaster Guide to give you a better idea of where the scope/Hengstler counter should sit. Lastly, the CRL for Centurion does not mention decals on the counter, so you are good to go with that. The information listed below can be found at the bottom of the page here: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt For level 2 (Expert Infantry) Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster. For level 3 (Centurion) Level three certification (if applicable): Hasbro and Rubies blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

I can actually hook you up with a few of the items you will need, Dave (no charge). I have the flash guard, ejection port guard and charging handle made in black resin. You will need to drill a hole in the front of the barrell for the flash guard to be mounted next to, though. If interested, just PM me your shipping info.

If you could post some photos of the pieces in question (and how they currently fit you) that would help tremendously. You may be able to get away with minimal effort, but since they are very large you have the advantage of trimming them. Shimming (making them larger) is a whole different matter. The tops of the thighs can be trimmed to where they fit comfortably, and there should be a gap between them and the cod area. What I would suggest at this point is to suit up (wearing and undersuit) and take photos (they really do speak a thousand words) from as many different angles as possible. This will give us a much better idea of what adjustments/alterations will be needed. We are here to help, Phil, so don't be shy about asking questions!

Some good news for ya', Dave... E-11s are not a requirement for basic approval, only for EI and above. (See bottom of this post). Besides the wire/item on the side it is connected to, the charging handle, end cap itself and perhaps the bolt opening you are actually in pretty good overall shape for level 2! Resin builds have come quite a long way, and there are replacement parts available that can be 3D printed. Don't worry if you don't actually have a 3D printer, though, there are services online that can to it inexpensively, and many folks here offer the files for free, like this: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45065-anh-e-11-blaster-files/ If there are any you can't find, just ask. You can also have them made in cast aluminum, but those are pricier: (I used this eBay seller to replace a ton of parts on my resin build). ------------ I hope this helps, and here is a thread that should give you some more details/guidance: FISD Blaster reference guide- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/ E-11 requirements as needed for EI and Centurion: OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hasbro and Rubies blasters are not allowed, even conversions.