justjoseph63

You do, but it's a whole Detachment!

Too many discrepancies in this kit to list, John.... sooo many things wrong. Looks more like someone did a really, really bad job on the molds and many parts of it would have to be completely replaced, including the chest, forearms, shoulder bells and cod just to name a few. Note the fact that in the listing no close-up photos of the individual pieces are shown. Instead they show lots of pics of people wearing the (horribly ill-fitted) armor in cool poses. This should be a red flag. Also, never pay attention to 5 star reviews, as those can be (and often are) fake. Unfortunately, purchasing/building a quality (screen accurate) kit for any type of TK is not an inexpensive endeavor, especially for a FO build.. It's a "you get what you pay for" scenario, and this particular one would make a cool (albeit expensive) Halloween costume, but would not even pass basic 501st approval, which is what I hope you are aiming for. As of right now, here are very few "tried and true" vendors selling FO TK armor out there. One you could try who is on our "vetted" seller list is Jimmiroquai, ( [email protected] ), who makes an incredible kit. Best of luck in your search, and if we can be of any help, just let us know!

You tell em' Sarah!

Wow, now THAT is the attitude to have, Oscar! I had a lot of issues on my first EI submission as well. I had to end up buying a new chest, back and kidney and spending over a month getting it ready for level 3, but it was well worth it. I promise you that you will more proud than ever of your armor once you get those items taken care of, and if you should need any help or advice, just ask here on the forums and we will be there for you. You are also more than welcome to PM me with anything you need assistance with. Keep up that positive attitude, brother, and I look forward to seeing your Centurion submission in the new year!!

We are here for ya', Garrett. Just take your time, ask lots of questions, post lots of photos, and remember this: Measure once twice three times before cutting, and once again before gluing anything. When in doubt, let us know before proceeding and we will help you out. Consider this a marathon, not a sprint, and you will have a great looking/fitting set of armor before you know it! If you are hopefully building with Centurion level in mind, here is some information: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/

Right back atcha' brother, and really digging the Tiki mugs... I can't think of a better way to dive into a bloody Mary on Christmas day! Wishing all the best to you and yours, and can't wait to see which costume(s) you add to your collection in the upcoming year. (Send me some of that Yorkshire pud, lol).

Hi Oscar, and thank you for your EI submission! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted, and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry. On behalf of the entire D.O. staff, congratulations!  Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Overall a really nice build, sir. The higher levels are all about the details and there are a few items to go over, so let's get going, shall we? Starting with your bucket (NICE paint job, by the way), it looks as if the bottom left ear screw is a little high. This is not a deal breaker, but it should match the one on your right side. Reference image It looks as if you may have your S-trim on in reverse. On most types, there is a flatter side (shown below in green) and a rounder side (shown below in red). As in the reference image, it should be the flat side that faces out. This is a super easy fix... just remove and then reverse it! Reference image The outside (black) part and screens of the hovi-mic tips are good to go, but the inside should be white. It looks as if you may have some sort of electronics in there.. (?) Reference image Your tube stripes are the right distance from the cheek, but unfortunately they are on the wrong sides. Note how the the tops should lean forward instead of back. Reference image Your bicep/forearm alignment is a perfect as it gets, Oscar, but you should adjust the strapping on that connection to lower the forearms, as there should be a gap there. Doing this will also do 2 other things... it will help eliminate the gap between your wrists and hand guards as well a give you more mobility for bending your arms. Reference image Not a huge issue, but your ABS belt could be trimmed a bit at the top and bottom for a more screen accurate look. Reference image There are a few areas where your cover strips go beyond the connections, especially on the top of the rear left thigh. I would recommend a 2 minutes with a Dremel tool and some sandpaper for these. It will give you a more uniform appearance and prevent that point from poking into you. Reference image Your left calf armor is significantly higher in the back than the right one and needs to be lowered to level them out. The length is good and matches the right one, but it wants to ride up for some reason. Some troopers have rigged up stirrup system using an elastic band attached to the inside of the bottom, which goes on under your boot and keeps it from raising up. Reference images The rear cover strip on your left thigh needs to be trimmed up just a bit to where it ends at the top of the ridge. Reference image A simple dressing issue here... make sure that your neck seal is tucked in all the way. Reference image Lastly, the scope on an E-11 can (and should) have a bit of brass "weathering", but this is way too much, lol. I can of black spray paint would do wonders for this, (just be sure to mask off the other areas). Reference image Centurion Suggestions:In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustment etc. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. The return edge in the "bump" sections on your wrist openings need 2 minutes with a Dremel or file to remove the remaining bit in the corners. Easy peasy. The difference in the width between where the rear of the thigh ammo pack connects on the lower thigh ridge is pretty far off, and the spacing on each side of the cover strip needs to be equal or very close. It may be the angle of the photo, but it also looks as if the inside connection needs to come down a bit. The rear tops of the tabs should be almost perfectly level with the tops of the ridges. Shimming the outside half may be a possibility, but that would leave a large gap in the ridge. Replacing the thigh would probably be a better option, as these issues will need to be addressed before we can move you to Centurion. Reference image (Note that the seam is in the center) Reference images. (Note that the difference between the rear of the thigh ammo pack tabs are nearly identical in distance from the "bend" in the lower ridge of the thigh on each side). Looks like you have a bit of work in front of you, brother, but don't get discouraged! I have the utmost faith that you will come through with flying colors! Now get out there and proudly represent the Empire and the ISG as it's newest Expert Infantryman!

Really nice job on that build, David! As Dan mentioned, the final approval is up to your GML, but I personally see no problems that would hold you back from getting your official 501st TK number. Good luck, and keep us informed!

Mine is a hybrid/mashup. Resin Doopydoos kit, but I replaced the magazine well, folding stock (functioning), trigger guard, entire front end and rear cap with accurate aluminum replicas to keep authentic look high but the weight down. I did use a real Sterling magazine though. The whole thing weighs in at just a little over 2 pounds (about 1 kilo). One thing you will need to consider is that very often on a troop you will be asked "Can I hold your gun"? (Mostly kids). For those that carry Hyperfirms/rubber models this is not a problem, since it really can't be "broken" if they should drop it. However, since mine is mostly a resin build, I decline by saying something along the lines of "The Emperor forbids it" or "It's against regulations".

Perfect, Oscar, and Thanks!!. I am working on this right now and will be with ya' shortly, so hang in there...

Sorry about that, sir. I forgot to hit "Display as link". Initial post updated!

Good find, Sherry! The originals were painted as well, so those will be just dandy.

Since that particular issue is not specifically listed in the CRL for L3 it is just a suggestion toward screen accuracy. Great to hear that you will be addressing it, but it's not a necessity, brother.

Hi Joaquin, and thank you for your submission for Expert Infantry level. You did an admirable overall build on your armor, but after discussing the matter in length with the D.O. Staff, we agreed that the higher levels of approval are all about screen accuracy, and after reviewing the photo that shows the rear of your thighs, we feel that the connection on the rear of the left thigh does not match the one on the right as closely at is could. Please also note that the cover strip should run vertically down the center of the thigh, and not off to one side, as seen in the reference photo below. Reference image While not mentioned specifically in the CRL, the cover strips being symmetrical on each side is an integral part of Stormtrooper armor, especially at levels 2 and 3, and while a very minor difference can be accepted in certain cases, the difference in width of those connections is just too great at this time. We are suggesting at this point that you reduce the width of the left connection to the point where it matches the right one or purchase a new left thigh. When doing so, please new photos of yourself suited up in the updated armor, and also include a clear close-up side view of your large ab-button plate as seen below. Thanks!

Undersuits can be purchased through Amazon or eBay (usually pretty reasonable) or at many sporting goods stores. Make sure that it doesn't have any markings/logos that would be visible when wearing it, though. Some like the one piece type, but I prefer the two piece (shirt/pants).. makes it easier to answer the "call of nature" when suited up. Not sure who makes neck seals in the UK, but you could ask on the UKG boards. For a blaster, there are a ton of makers out there. However, be leery about who you buy from, and when in doubt, be sure to ask here. Some are great, some are total crap and not approvable at higher levels. Being in the UK, you also have the Doopydoos option. It is a resin kit that you make yourself, but is really accurate overall and accepted at all levels. Dooydoos E-11 kit: https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp E-ll finishing kit for more accuracy: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/ E-11 resin build thread/reference source: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/

Thanks for your submission, Oscar! Really nice job on that armor, brother, but can you post up some additional photos so we can get started? These are what I need: 1. Close up of hovi-mic tip showing inside clearly. 2. Rear of E-11 showing D-ring (Required) 3. A shot of your TD with a ruler/tape measure showing the length. 3. Not required for level 2, but it looks like you are headed for level 3 and a shot of your wrist openings would help.

Sorry for the delay, Joaquin. Thank you for you submission, and we will be with you shortly, mi hermano!

OK troopers... thanks for your participation, but we have a winner! Ray (RCMUSTANG) guessed 199, and the actual number was 186. Congrats! I will PM you for your shipping details,

Although Anovos does assemble the helmets, they do not do it screen accurately. The ears are not in the typical position seen in the films, and we always request those who use them to move the bottoms back to reflect this. While modding my Anovos helmet for Hero, I managed to move them back quite a bit, as I was asked to do this when applying for Centurion for that costume. While not perfect, per se, it looks a lot better, and shows that it is possible without damaging the helmet. (It took me about 15 minutes to do). My modded Anovos Hero bucket Since that requirement is not specifically mentioned in the CRLs, we can only suggest it and hope that the trooper takes the time and effort to address it for a better look. While you (hopefully) prepare for Centurion, please be aware that Anovos also uses the incorrect screws at the bottoms of the ears, and that these will need to be replaced. The ones they use are the small "pan-head" style, and they must be the V head slotted type like they use in the top two. I did not mention this in your EI submission as they were not shown, but I suspect they are indeed the pan-head style. You might want to check with some of your Garrison mates who have reached Centurion to find out where they got replacements. Incorrect Anovos bottom ear screws

Hi Aaron, and thanks for your Centurion submission! Please note that before we can get started that your hand guards will have to be changed out to the flexible (latex or latex like) type, as required by the CRL for level 3. Also, please post up a photo of the area shown below (without the belt). Thanks!

As Q mentioned, avoid eBay sellers. I can't even begin to tell you how bad this obviously re-cast kit is and all the problems it has. When it comes to armor, you get what you pay for. The kits from the vetted (tried and true) sellers in this this section https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ will cost more, but you will be dealing with reputable folks, the quality is top-notch, and that they are 501st approvable at all levels when built correctly (which we are here to help you with). Here are some to avoid at all costs, as well as information on what a re-caster is: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/

Looks like you have a jump on things, Peter! If you haven't started already, I would suggest getting all your build supplies in place as well. Nothing worse than having to stop in the middle of it to go out and find something you need! This may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/ Also, it really helps to start a build thread of your own once BBB day arrives. This way, you can ask all the questions you have as well as post photos (lots of them.. we LOVE photos) of your progress and any issues you may come across. If we can be of any help, just ask, and best of luck on your build!

You can reach Dale (owner of AM) at [email protected]

Really nice job on those repairs, brother. Great to see you went the extra mile, and it shows! Not that it's a deal breaker by any means, but the ends of the TD clips should be squared off. Also, very wise idea putting Velcro on the clips. It keeps them from scratching your armor and in place securely. I've seen more a few folks try to steal them off of a TK on troops. Reference image

Hi Miguel, and thank you for your EI submission! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted, and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry. On behalf of the entire D.O. staff, congratulations!  Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Nice paint job on that bucket, sir, but your tube stripes are sitting down farther than they should be. The width from the top of the stripes to the edge should be about the width of a pencil. Reference image We are recommending that your ABS belt be raised a little to where it covers more of the bottoms of your ab button plates. Right now it is sitting a bit low. Reference image You did a spectacular paint job on the buttons of the large plate, but the ones on the smaller one could definitely have the edges removed to match it. The paint should not extend all the way to the bottom of the button itself, just as you did on the ones on the larger plate. Reference image I suggest doing a little trimming on the tops of your thighs. This would give you a better look, as well as making it much more comfortable. You may also want to remove the "point" from the top of the right thigh, which would prevent it from poking in to your leg while you walk. Reference image Your posterior plate appears to sit too far away from your kidney plate, and should actually sit underneath it. This can be achieved with some strapping adjustments. Reference image Although SDS armor is built using the overlap method, there should not be a visible bump at the connection(s) next to the cover strip. It may be the angle of the photo, but the right one does not appear to have this, and they should be symmetrical. You did a fantastic job on that blaster, Miguel (especially the weathering on that scope) but we are highly suggesting that you change out the D-ring that came with the DD kit. The center part is too narrow, and the width should not extend past the inside ridge of the rear cap as shown below. Reference image Centurion Suggestions:In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustment etc. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. As per the CRL for level 3, "There should be minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates". The tops of your shoulder bells should be touching (or very near to) the shoulder bridges. I suggest removing all the return edges from the bottoms, and perhaps giving them a hot water bath to widen them to where they sit right up against the biceps. This will help eliminate the gaps in the front and back and bring them closer to the chest/back plates. Reference image Reference image No more to add here, mi hermano. Congrats, and I hope to see your Centurion submission when you are ready!