justjoseph63

To attach the guards to the gloves? I used super glue to attach both my first set of handguards, one set to rubber, the other to Nomex. After time, (5-6 months) the glue became very brittle on both sets and started peeling away on the edges to the point where I had to remove them. Was the set you had a problem with one of mine? I haven't heard of this happening with the them before, but if they were just PM me and I will get you sorted out.

Also, it looks as if you own 2 E-11s and included both with your submission photos. Can you let us know which is the one you would like to use for your review (A or B)? Thanks!! A. B. 1. Missing charging handle 1. Charging handle present 2. Bolt painted black 2. Bolt painted silver 3. Scuffed folding stock bolt 3. Folding stock bolt solid black.

Hi Mark, and thank you for your EI submission! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted, and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry. On behalf of the entire D.O. Staff, congratulations!  Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Super nice job on this Anovos kit, sir, especially for a taller Trooper! Let's get started, shall we? Starting at the top, ideally the ear screws should be more in alignment with the rear angle of the trap above them. In a perfect situation, the center of the top should sit directly below the end of the brow trim and bottom should angle back a bit more at the bottom. If you can do this without exposing any seams we would recommend it. Reference image Some black paint and a "filbert" style artist's brush taken to your vocoder would give it more definition on the tops of the 5 center ridges. Reference image Fantastic work on painting those ab-buttons, Mark! The only small things noticed are that the corners should be squared off instead of rounded, and the small plate could be a little less wide, but neither are deal breakers by any means. Reference image Your kidney/ab rivet placement is absolute textbook, but we noticed that while wearing them that the tops of the plates are not lining up, causing the rivets to be uneven. It also appears that your kidney is overlapping your ab plate. Some simple strapping adjustments would take care of this. Reference image (A little fuzzy, but you can see where the rivets/top line up) A simple dressing issue here: The gap between the cod and thigh can be either way you you have it (left or right, whichever is more comfortable) but the gap should be pretty much equal on both sides. Reference image What would help achieve this is to adjust the strapping that holds your right thigh on. At present, it is twisted and could be moved counter-clockwise a bit. This would help line up the cover strips on the front and back as well, giving you a much better symmetrical appearance. Centurion Suggestions:In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustment etc. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. I know you have the correct bottom ear screws (and it may just be the angle of the photos) but it appears that they look a lot like the pan-head style that come with the Anovos bucket rather than the V head type.. When you get ready for your Centurion submission, please supply a close-up showing at least one of them backed out a few turns to make it more apparent. Reference image (Note lack of flat edge on screw head) The gaps between the shoulder bell and shoulder bridge and the shoulder bells/chest should ideally be as minimal as possible. In looking at the return edges on your shoulder bells I noticed that you still have some of the return edge on the bottoms. We realize that you are a taller Trooper, so removing these completely (5 minutes with a Dremel) will allow them to sit a lot closer, and is completely screen accurate. Reference image Suggested fix Reference image You confirmed via PM that this photo was of your wrist openings, and we have discussed the fact that the return edge in the "hump" section will need to be removed for level 3. The remainder of the edges are spot-on!! Reference image As you may be aware, Centurion status requires that only a single seam be visible. There are some great tutorials here of covering shim seams with ABS paste, and after seeing your build skills here I have every faith that this is something you can tackle! If you need any assistance, just ask... we are here to help. Reference images Another easy fix here. As seen in the photos, the outer edge of the drop boxes need to align with the outside edge of the ABS belt. It looks as if you can just move the strap over and apply some E-6000 behind the rear of the strap to keep it in the correct position. Reference image The photo of your gloves shows that the flexible hand plates are not attached, and it looks as if they are held on via elastic bands. For level 3, as per the CRL they must be affixed to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. Another easy fix with some E-6000. Reference images Again, a really nice job on this armor, Mark. Most of the issues are pretty basic, and I hope to see your Centurion submission as soon as you are ready. Now get out there and make the CCG proud as their newest EI awardee!

Looking SHARP, Chris! It looks to me like basic approval is in the bag, and you have been given some great advice for when you are ready to head for level 3 (hint hint). I would echo Glen's suggestion and remove the extra large tab at the rear of you shoulder bridges. Also, it may be the lighting, (and not that it matters for basic) but are the insides of your hovi-tips white?

Tony shared these recently... Rubber thighs! (Note how there are waves, and that it buches up).

Good one, Eric!

Also, many adhesives (especially the epoxy type and CA"super" glue) can get brittle over time. E-6000 maintains somewhat of a flexible nature which is important, especially on areas like the front of the calves which get a lot of opening and closing action. Can I ask where you live? If in the U.S. it is available at all craft stores and many Wal-Marts. If you are outside the U.S., note that there are certain online sellers (including Europe) that are selling FAKE E-6000. The genuine product is clearly marked Made in the USA, and has a batch number on each tube. They do not sell to distributors in China or Hong Kong, so if you try to save a few bucks by ordering from a seller there, it is probably not the real stuff. If you have any doubts, you can contact the manufacturer at www.eclecticproducts.com, and they will let you know where to get it. The fake stuff is garbage.

First, thank you for the photos, David! Unfortunately, those are not considered the correct "pan-head" style screws as required for level 2. The sides of pan-head screws are relatively flat, (as Q showed inthe photos). I would recommend asking your Garrison mates where they got the correct ones so that we can move your submission along! As soon as you get them replaced, please include them in your thread. Thanks!

You can also go to the hardware section in Lowe's and ask for a Hillman Hardware gauge. Gives you measurements in cm, mm and inches. Should run you about 3 dollars or less.

It's what we are here for, John.

The shoulder bell looks a little tight right now, (especially at the bottom) but it will more than likely not sit as close as you have it once you attach them. The red square shows approximately where your shoulder bridge will sit, so you should be able to move them out a bit more so that they will not be as tight. Removing the return edges from the bottom as you did will certainly help, but if you find that they are still too tight, a hot water bath will help widen them up.

As Glen mentioned, internal strapping techniques are up to you. Smart idea about changing over to snaps, though. Velcro holds up well at first, but will begin to get weaker over time from repeated opening/closing.

Nice trimming on those biceps. Mark!

The link is in your request post, sir! Thanks, Joseph

I thought I recognized that face you handsome devil!! Mos Eisley cantina, last June.... that was YOU dancing on the bar??? Seriously, though, thanks for that. I literally laughed for 5 minutes.

There are both good and "not so good" aspects of 3D printed ones. The good is that they can be relatively inexpensive, are VERY light and the details are nice. The "not so good" is that yes, they can be somewhat fragile, and depending on which printer you use they can take a LOT of prep-work. When I received my kit (not the same one as shown above) each piece was covered with pretty heavy print lines. I figure I have about 12-15 solid hours worth of sanding and filling involved, as I wanted each one as smooth as glass (I'm kinda' OCD that way). I drilled out the entire center and reinforced it with a 5/16ths aluminum rod to help with durability. It still seems a bit fragile, but I only use it with my Hero armor and since I don't troop in that much it's mostly for display.

Looking awesome, sir! It may just be me, but I gotta' admit this photo gives me a little concern: They seem awfully close together... do they line up in the center of the tabs on top of the back plate ok??

Looks good, Stephen! One thing to watch out for is those areas that have jagged tips. Sanding them down smooth will help keep the from snagging/tearing your undersuit. If you have any more questions (no matter how small or how many) be sure to ask, and photos are a bonus! We are here to help.

Thank you for the updated photos, David! Our apologies, but we need two more photos and then we can get the party started, brother. Please take a moment to add some close up side-view pics of your ab-button plates as seen below and we can get going. Thanks!!

Unless you use a drill on a regular basis, you can get a reamer. It is a tool similar to an awl that has blades built in on the sides, and all you do is twist it in until you get the right width hole you need. VERY easy to both use/control and no need for a drill. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dubro-2331-Body-Reamer-Scissors-Set-3-R-C-Body-Tools-T-Maxx-E-Maxx/390937023826?hash=item5b05a99552:g:Z1UAAOSwr~dZjfvK:rk:6:pf:0

That's the spirit, Robert! At this point, my advice would be: grab some blue painter's tape and use it to temporarily attach the calves and forearms and then post up some photos of how they fit. (As many angles as possible). After that, we can better help you with specific issues. Are all the cover strips pre-cut to different widths?

Congrats on your DLT-19 kit purchase, Jake! Sounds like you have a plan, which is always a great idea... Not sure how far you are going screen accuracy wise, but note that all the stocks on the 4 known screen used ones were made of a brown(ish) Bakelite (a form of plastic), and the handles (grips) were black plastic, so I would be leery about adding handling marks ("metal" showing) in those areas. You may want to find a 1 inch (slightly conical) disc that was attached to the top of the grip as shown below. These were added for the films, and not part of the original MG-34. I can't see the fins up close, but they should be tapered at the ends with a notch to hold the wires in place. Looking forward to following the rest of your build!!

Working on your submission right now, brother, but can you post up 2 quick photos for me? I need clear close-ups showing the paint on the teeth area top and bottom. Many thanks!!!

Depending on if you want the brackets showing on the bottom of the chest plate, you also have the option (instead of removing any of the neck area) to not have any return edge there. This is what they did for Luke's armor, and is approvable at level 3.

Before you glue that Chris, I would suggest trimming down the bottom a bit more as shown below. The reason being is that it will give it a bit more flexibility, allowing it to sit a lot closer to the top of the calf. It will also reduce the gap that is there. Also, when trimming always try not to put sharp angles (as shown by the arrows) on anything, as these become areas where splitting can/will occur. The bottom of the posterior (butt) plate is a common area where this happens. Note below how they are slightly rounded in this trooper's example.