Jump to content


Deployment Officer[Staff]
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About justjoseph63

Member Title

  • Position
    Chief Deployment Officer

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Live Oak, FL.
  • Interests
    All things Star Wars, collecting tools, camping, saltwater fishing, and serving the Empire!


  • FISD Achievement Medals
  • FISD Service Medals
  • Attache Achievement Award
  • Centurion Granted Date
  • EIB Awards
  • FISD Supporter
  • EIB Cohorts
  • FISD Kudos
    First FISD Attache Ambassador. ANH S. ANH H. and HWT Centurion

Standard Info

  • Name
  • 501st ID
  • 501st Unit
    Florida Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

16,141 profile views
  1. UPDATE: Sorry for the delay, but I am awaiting a few "surprises" for this build in the mail.
  2. FIFTY troopers? WOW! That must have been a (forgive the pun) blast.
  3. NICE job on this set of AM, Mark.. your hard work has paid off! I know you are aiming for Centurion (you are well on your way) and it can be difficult to notice some issues until you actually see them in photos. You have probably noticed these items already, but if I may make a few suggestions: Photo 1- The ABS belt needs to be raised to where it at least covers the bottom(s) of the ab-button panels. Hopefully you don't have to relocate the snaps that hold it to the canvas belt, and Velcro will help hold that rascal in place. The left thigh should be raised to where the tops of the centers align. Easy strapping issue! Photo 2- In a perfect world the cover strips on the thighs and calves should line up front and back. Again, just a strapping issue. 1. 2. Photo 3- The outside edges of the drop boxes need to align with the outside edges of the ABS belt, and the strap(s) that hold them to the canvas belt should not be visible. Just move em' over and add a little E-6000 to the rear of the elastic to hold them in place and you are good to go! Photos 4/5- Again, something that is impossible to see when suited up, but just make sure whoever is helping you dress fully closes the rear of the calves. Looks like your Velcro may be coming off the bottom. 3. 4. 5. I can definitely see this armor is headed to Expert Infantry, and then onto Centurion!
  4. Excellent cropping on the full length images, Karl, but when you take the new photos we ask that you post them a bit larger. The ones you posted are right around 140 x 600, but there are a lot of details we need to see. Having a height of at least 1200 (or more) would help immensely and save us from having to ask for close-ups. Many thanks!
  5. It's about time, Gerald! Looking sharp, sir.. you have been added to the queue and one of us will be with ya' ASAP!
  6. Amazing job on that pack, brother. Weathering is spot-on- not too much, not too little. Maybe a little black on the pauldron as well?
  7. Welcome to the FISD, Paige! Lots of information here to say the least, but we are here to guide you through your white armor journey. As Jonatan mentioned, having your own build thread will help immensely. That way you can ask all the questions you want to and post up lots of photos of your progress. Posting pics here is especially helpful when you run into an issue. If you aren't sure about something, always ask before cutting or gluing. Trust me on this one. Most importantly, take.... your.... time. Consider your build as a marathon, not a sprint. We are here for ya' every step of the way, so never be shy about hitting us up with any questions.
  8. Looking GREAT, Adam! Not sure if you thought about this, but for the rear of the pack this is what I did: My oil pan is a bit different, but I cut out the back and used a piece of 3mm black craft foam sheet (EVA) to cover the hole. I have an overlap of about 2 inches around the sides and just glued it on. I indented the foam in the hole, which makes room for the raised OII area and allows it to sit close to the back plate. It also helps prevent scratches from the oil pan on my armor.
  9. Sorry for the delay folks.. been prepping for hurricane Ian which is due here in a day or so. I may be offline for a week or so as massive power outages are predicted, so thanks for your patience!
  10. Just pull it up as close as you can and still be comfortable in the "lower area". Walk around a bit, and if it's too tight (or your voice goes up an octave ) you can loosen it up. If the cod is too snug it will cause armor bite (chafing or pinching). Not all troopers are the same height, so a gap is fine. I hope you will be aiming for Centurion with this build (you are WELL on your way), so just a quick heads-up- The small ab-button plate should be be trimmed. There should be no return edge, and ideally the corners should be squared off as seen below: Screen used Example of AP build Keep it up, sir, you're doing great!
  11. Didn't have a lot of time today, but I got some of the detail work completed. The plate that fits into the "bolt" opening got a coat of filling primer and some sanding as well as 2 coats of silver paint**. Inner round part got some brass colored paint (yes, before you ask, that part is actually brass). **Silver paint out of the can is really shiny, and has a bit of a texture. Since the bolt is (in theory) is constantly being used (and oiled) it should not have a sheen, per se. Bryan's design has an actual serial number printed into it (COOL). The photo above is a little out of focus, but the actual plate shows the numbers quite clearly. After the last coat of silver dried I ran my thumb across the paint for a few minutes to get rid of the shine. I used some charcoal dust to fill in the numbers to make them pop and then hit it with a clear coat of matte to seal it. Added the wires that go from the central fuses to the edge of the mounting plate and the capacitors that sit below the rear of the power cylinders. I will add the red cloth covered wire at the end of the power cylinders toward the end of the build. Some references state that the red wires behind the power cylinders were not seen on-screen, but in at least 2 scenes they were (photos 1-2). The first shows a Stunt TK holding his weapon with it present, and the second is from a photo where Luke is holding it, but I believe this to be the same exact weapon.
  12. A bit of an issue here, but I shall persevere.. Since I will be adding in a coiled wire spring, I had to remove the area in the cocking channel. I caaaaarefully used a Dremel with a thin grinding attachment, and it came out OK. Lots of sanding to be done on the inside of the channel to get it flat and smooth still to come. The issue is that this is one of Bryan's "heavy duty" prints. Awesomely super thick to withstand years of trooping, but it had a PVC pipe glued in (pic 1) for even more strength. This obviously narrows the interior, but I though I could drill out the pipe without damaging the printed outside using a 1" drill bit (2). This way, the wire coil would be the correct width. Here's a hint: Don't try this. It worked well the first inch or so (3) but then started to bind up. I stopped there, as I got the feeling it was going to crack. 1 2 3 I will have to make adjustments and do the best I can with this once that time comes. Suggestion: If you do add an interior PVC pipe for added strength, when installing it I would only use it in the center part and stop at the end of the bolt. This will allow you to add a full size spring.
  13. In order to better get to some of the areas of the grip assembly for sanding (blue arrows) I removed the "screw" (yellow arrow) and thankfully they came apart perfectly! Yes, I finished the grip already, lol. This will also help for painting, as I will be using 3 different ones- flat black, gloss black and silver. Still a little sanding to do, but I'm a lot closer. Dry fit The magazine can be difficult to get smooth because of all the tiny crevices, especially those around the clip on the side. I used a cotton swab to apply the Bondo in the ridges and an exacto knife to apply it around the sides, The curved area will get a different treatment to get rid of the print lines.
  • Create New...