TK bondservnt

in the factory they used braizing paste. in a chamber. the paste is applied, then the whole part is jigged and clamped then heat is applied like an oven. then other parts are stick braised with a torch. welding per sea was not used, as it produces too much slag. the parts have to be fluxed, and completely clean to keep oxidation from forming.

link me!

where is the other thread?

I would have say that the list you have is correct enough. the hammered black is a nice effect if done correctly. if you had an original sterling in the MK 4 british manufacture there has been some discussion that the paint was phosphorus based, and when you look at the finish on a british sterling they only used crinkle paint in the late 70's long after the firing versions bapty used in the star wars films. in fact crinkle painted folding stocks and end caps were rejected by british standards, and had to be sent to the KR series of guns made in other countries. we have to keep in mind that the paint in the star wars sterlings varied from non gun's to blank firing, and then some versions used in promotional photos were done in the usa. only guns imported before a certain date were used in photos in the usa, which is why we have crinkle painted versions in the promo photos with luke, leia and solo. but in the film the bapty company took phosphorus paintjob sterlings and simply painted them with standard flat black paint. so it's not really accurate to paint an 'on screen' sterling with crinkle finish! but if you're doing let's say a luke costume with a sandtrooper TK belt, then I'd use crinkle paint! the magazine is blued steel, and the scope is sand cast brass.

it might have been possible to use a real folding stock, and the rear end cap from a real sterling, since apex does sell those parts separately! yet since you used aluminum it's really above the bar for most alum builds. you're not the only person who's thrilled with it! we all are very proud of your attention to detail! I only studied the sterling, and you're the expert now just as well as anyone who does something as awesome as you did. we all can become experts in this hobby, that's why I like the transparency of information we all have now in the stormtrooper world. it was not always this way! as a matter of fact it sure would be amazing cool to have ROTJ parts laser cut. the MGC sterling copy could be completely done with flat sheets of steel. since the original MGC was just pressed, folded and rolled steel plate. would your shop be interested in doing runs for me in sheet steel? I would love to have a stack of cut parts ready to bend into shape. PM me if you'd like to help with a project like that. I'd pay for it!

this is just so close it's silly, but it would have been so much better to use original parts. even the e-11 x looks 100% perfect. compared to this 70%. it's just so close... but it's not close enough to make me say woo hoo. any time a person makes a sterling rebuild it just looks so much better because it's the real parts this build is just so cool it deserves massive respect. but dang it. why didn't you use all this skill to make a replica with original parts, scope and hengstler? in the entire legion you're one of the only people to do this, but dang it brother... with the real parts out there, it would have banged my buck to see a build with original parts on a tube, like plecter labs. so for me as a blaster nut, fan. pseudo expert I only thought that it all would have looked much better if you just machined a steel tube and mounted the parts to it. it's just so amazing that you could get so close. and the end cap and the sight rail, and the location of the hengstler could have been more accurate. the power cells on the magazine are supposed to have 3 center capacitors, but it's supposed to be 2 on the bottom and one on the top such an amazing display of "so close" it's painful. I could go on and on about how close you are... but in the end I guess I'm just biased. I'm not surprised at all if some don't understand my pain and passion. I wanted this build to knock my socks off... and it did... on one level... but compared to erv in france, I felt that using the original parts is just so much more satisfying on the other hand, you've done an amazing job of making every part. so it's really a matter of the heart... and I'm torn between the two worlds of e-11. I'm still tossing and turning over this build!

I have lot's of hengstler counters, so now I need about 3 more scopes. PM me with photos if you have any to sell! thanks...

nly a myth until you get a warp then it will be a sad fact! pressure aluminum and e-6000 can cause warping in some situations in contact with metal it generates heat

I still work on this project. many years in the making. far too long. some have betrayed me, and some have delayed me. but I will not stop until I am the eyes and ears of the emperor.

not everyone can use the Screen accurate methods body size prohibits some armor fittings and methods of strapping.

my arms are too big to have the forearms sliding the biceps. would cause problems more than it would solve. the actors must have had 9" forearms and 11" biceps so they needed to "hang" the armor with straps. most people who have larger arms, lets use my dimensions as an example 12" forearms, and 15" biceps (at their largest parts) don't allow for screen accurate sizing, thus there is no extra room for sliding around, and since the parts are all larger, they don't actually need to "hang" the whole screen used hangar system is for people who have the bicep hooks, and the small arms to have a need for this type of strapping.

up my order to two sets please!

potato pota-to no real difference between rivet snap or screw I've not had to ever remove the holster in 4 years of trooping packs just fine!

The ROTJ replica is in my hands. the main problem? making the perfect scope, rail and greeblies sure, I have tango' d fett's versions of everything, but I need a machinist prop replicator to stand up and be counted in for a project to do the following SCOPE RAIL AND SCOPE in aluminum. greeblies in aluminum. C track D rings those are the parts needed. PM me

contact your local garrison. troopers who live right nearby are most likely your best option when it comes to understanding armor and building it!

my only pet peeve here: the hengstler, sight rail, T Tracks and grips should not have 'hammered' texture. it's like Iron man all over again... hammer weapons engineering... when I look at the counter box with texture, it just makes me grit my teeth! the T Tracks, sight rail and counter should be masked off with tape when painting the hammered texture. in the end, this texture, and the matte clear make the whole texture so washed out, it's like putting pudding all over the blaster. looks too much like chocolate cake. sorry to say! the holster sure likes having a nice blaster in it. my 2 credits!~ it is a nice job, but this texture treatment does not seem like a paintjob I'd produce. I put the bumpy texture on my blasters by using putty, and I can control the texture and it's amount by simply using that and flat black paint. a little gloss, and a little matte clear and it's much more of a striking texture than the smooth waves I see in this paint.

I finally have this base gun... and I'm working on making copies of it.

GINO has perfect track. marv's track is only a fraction thinner, so a little less cool. if you're making an uber replica, then I'd go with gino. I have a set of marv, a set from sabrefreak, and soon a set from GINO since I'm making a blastercore e-11 I use plastic leaf rake tines from lowes rakes. you should be able to find sales threads for gino and marv.

personally it's too much gap at the top jimmy.... but if the girls like it... then I guess it's up to personal taste.

great job! my only nit pick is your power cells on your blaster, angled in too far, and the tears. awesome work!

I'm 5' 11" and I wear AP and ATA with no problems.

the front is secured by a split rivet, and has one small snap with the cap type head, or female the rear has 2 male snaps. they are not 5/8" heavy duty, but are instead the smaller jeans style snap.

I have real scopes, and a hengstler. I also can make moulds. interested? I also have plans that fit on electrical conduit from lowes that's 1.5" and almost fits doopy do's style designs perfectly on the outside. the inside is just a tad smaller, but all you do is make the bolt smaller. the best wire for making the spring is standard coax electrical ground wire. even the regular insulated wire can be used.

this whole story is the exact reason why I love the goals of the 501st legion. perfect response from a large group, to help individuals, and children. proud and misty eye'd every time I even think of this!! kudo's to EVERY member who supported this. perhaps we should have another lucky child this upcoming year get a garrison treatment like this? are there any other candidates for this type of thing in the future? maybe even make a charity drive on a yearly basis to make this happen? what kind of name would we give a project like this? "help a junior trooper" "trooper wish"

leave a little on all sides of the plate. it does not fit inside, but it does fit over the top.